TonySoprano

I tried searching but could not find an answer

If I switch to Mobil 1 5W/30 Synthetic and change it every 6000 miles, I would have to change the STP filter every 3000 right?

But how do I change the filter and keep the same oil? Do I just take out the filter quickly and put the new one in? Or do I drain the plug and then remove the filter?

Sorry for the dumb question

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Screw off the old filter. Some oil will spill. Not much because the filter sits above the oil pan. Screw on the new filter. Top off and replace the amount of spilled oil.

Or, get a filter that can go 6K miles so you can do both at the same time. I can't really tell how "long" a filter will last. Maybe someone else can chime in and suggest something.

DW

TonySoprano

Ok thanks for the info.

Does anyone know if the STP oil filters are good for more than 3000 miles?

And is 6000 miles a good interval for changing synthetic?

I appreciate the responses!!

K Pazzo 6

iTrader: (6)

i change my oil every 2500 miles....maybe i should switch to synethic oil now but if you have to change the oil filter every 3000 miles?

TonySoprano

I know it would be a pain to change the filter every 3000 but at least the oil time is doubled and it uses synthetic oil which should be better.

Currently, I change the oil and filter every 2000 miles with conventional oil but want to switch to synthetic and longer intervals...

Neal728

uh oh for me then, cuz I've been changing the syn oil and filter every 6k or so. I guess this is a bad thing? I'm using the purolator filters.

caremd99

Use AMSOIL 5W-30 (ASL) and the AMSOIL oil filter. This oil is good for 25000 miles or 1 year whichever is first. Only thing you need to do is change the oil filter at 6 months regardless of mileage.

PM me and I will tell you what $$$ you can really buy the oil for.

caremd99

Just to confirm not much oil leaks when you change the oil filter even if you haven't drained it. I did it this past weekend. My Honda Odyssey was another matter!

TonySoprano

Cool thanks! I sent you a PM regarding the oil price..

caremd99

I left you a message. It wouldn't let me leave a long one so I may sound "short".

karguy

Purolator makes a pretty good filter, I wouldn't be concerned changing that filter and synthetic oil every 6000 miles. I change my filter every 6 months and oil every 12 months. I am using AMSOIL 0W-30 Synthetic Oil and Baldwin Filters. Baldwin makes AMSOIL filters but I can buy Baldwin filters locally for $5.00 vs $10.00 for AMSOIL filter.

TonySoprano

caremd99: thanks for the message. I will check into it!

bsetiawan

iTrader: (43)

IMO K&N makes a good oil filter too. I changed it every 2 oil changes = 7500 miles.

K Pazzo 6

iTrader: (6)

Originally posted by karguy

Purolator makes a pretty good filter, I wouldn't be concerned changing that filter and synthetic oil every 6000 miles. I change my filter every 6 months and oil every 12 months. I am using AMSOIL 0W-30 Synthetic Oil and Baldwin Filters. Baldwin makes AMSOIL filters but I can buy Baldwin filters locally for $5.00 vs $10.00 for AMSOIL filter. [/QUOTE]



u aren't serious.....are u?

karguy

u aren't serious.....are u? [/QUOTE]

Yes very serious! I have oil analysis from oil changes that show minimal wear, I do oil analysis at every oil change on all 5 cars. The AMSOIL 0W-30 Synthetic Oil is designed to last 35,000 miles, I am only going 12,000 miles. It also has outstanding lubricity wear test results. Check it out on their web site www.amsoil.com We are in a new era of superbly engineered synthetic oils and oil filter media. I equate changing oil and filter every 3,000 miles as a carry over from the old days. In those days using 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles was considered okay. Unleaded gas has also contributed to extended change intervals as well as the new generation of synthetic oils. We have a 1989 Toyota Celica that has over 250,000 miles on it that still doesn't burn oil however it leaks a small amount! It is a new world out there! I have the facts to back up my decision.

nick778

If you are using a good synthetic oil, you don't need to change your filter any more than once every six months. I would suggest Bosch as a good compromise between cost and qaulity. It has better filtering media for filtering in the 15 micron range as opposed to most OEM and replacements of 20 micron+ plus it flows well.
I would *not* suggest running any synthetic oil to a 35,000 mile interval including Amsoil. While a very good oil, their extended intervals of 35,000 miles are overhyped. If you are going to run any oil past 7,000 miles, you should perform an oil analysis at 6,000 miles when you change the filter to see how the oil is holding up...and base you drain interval on the results....IMHO. BTW, if you are going to use Mobil 1, I'd suggest the 10w-30 over the 5w-30. It holds viscosity much better and is still 'thinner' than i.e., Amsoil 5w-30 at start-up.

itdood

Filters last longer than the oil does. If you arean't a control freak like me, you can use 1 filter for every 2 oil changes usually.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Here is a good post exchange summarizing my thoughts:



No, much more butt kissing is required.



Cliff Notes for VQs:

Dino oil:

Castrol GTX 5W/30
Drain Interval: 5k

Synthetic oil:

Mobil 1 5W/30
Drain interval: 10k with 5k oil filter change

Oil Filters:

Nissan OEM
STP S6941 (at AutoZone)



See above.

Unless you are doing extended drains (over 10k), have an unknown oil history, neglected your oil change history, the recommendations above should suffice.


I no longer recommend Amsoil oil filters. I do like their oil if you intend on going a long interval, want superior sustained viscosity protection, and don't mind paying a few cents more a quart than Mobil 1 (that's right, I said a few cents).


Again, see above.

The more you "neglected" your car, the less comfortable I would be about 10k drain intervals on any synthetic. The wisest thing to do is to take a current sample of your car and see where you stand, then it will be easier to make an intelligent recommendation based on your own driving conditions and oil history. Even if you don't sample in the future, it's good to do it once to see where you stand.



If you do the 25k or 35k intervals recommended by Amsoil you will likely artificially inflate your viscosity which allows for more sludge to build up which can lead to premature varnishing and oxidation of the oil. The best thing to do is have your oil analyzed and use your results from your particular vehicle.


My second one-year interval on Amsoil for both of my Maximas are on their way to Blackstone. You can see the first one-year interval with Amsoil in the oil analysis spreadsheet linked in my sig.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

That is simply an ignorant statement. Filters vary in quality so widely, along with driving conditions, that such blanket assessments are not true.


Please study the oil analysis spreadsheet and notice the Insolubles level in each one. With few exceptions, most oil filters are "spent" in every oil analysis.

koostermax

Is that so, eh..... I guess i'm haven't really even thought about the filter being that high will cause a loss in that much oil... well for the vq it is quite lower that my other cars but if it can be done i'll try it next time. I guess I've been got that "Pavlov's Dog" mentality burned into my brain and so I usually just change the filter when I change the oil...

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Rizzob

Let's not forget about Mobil 1 filters. I'm not sure what their change interval is, but they filter all the way down to 10 microns.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Change interval really doesn't matter. None should go an abnormally long time. 5k miles is a good rule of thumb.

Contributing members here have researched this ad nauseum already. A simple search would have revealed all of this info, but most people here think posts occur in a vacuum.








VQ Oil Filter Part Numbers

VQ30DE and VQ35DE models (OEM uses M20 x 1.5 thread type and 14 psi bypass valve):

Oversized:

Optimum filtration at 20 microns
STP: S6941 ($6.99) 17-22 psi bypass valve
Purolator PureONE: PL24458 ($5.99) 8-10 psi bypass valve
Amsoil: SDF-36 ($9+) 7-9 psid bypass valve

OEM sized:

Optimum filtration at 20 to 25 microns
Nissan OEM: 15208-9EOOO or 15208 -00001 (newer number) (approx. $4 - $6 at dealer) 14 psi bypass valve
Nissan OEM: 15208-00006 (new on late 2k1 to 2k3 Maximas) 14 psi bypass valve

Optimum filtration at 20 microns
Amsoil: SDF-20 ($10+) 20 psi bypass valve

Optimum filtration at 15 microns
Bosch: 3323 ($5.49)

Optimum filtration at 10 microns
Mobil 1: M1-110 ($12)
Purolator PureONE: PL-14620 ($5.99)

Thimble-sized:

Optimum filtration at 20 microns
Supertech: ST6607 ($1.97); available at Wal-Mart only
STP: S6607 ($2.99)
Amsoil: SDF-13 ($12+) 12-16 psi bypass valve

Optimum filtration at 10 microns
Mobil 1: M1-108 ($12)
Purolator PureONE: PL-14622 ($5.99)

itdood

I'm not leaving ANY oil go 1 year then send it to a lab for "analysis".

Just change it FGS.

My other car has 130k w/turbo. The engine and turbo are like new. Apparently I know what I'm doing, and I've never once spent money on an "Oil Analysis".

If someone is changing oil every 3k, 6k on a filter is perfectly fine. Once the motor is broken in, there shouldn't be that many insolubles in the oil anyway, unless you leave it in there for a year or something.

mmsmannyc

I'll tell you right now, your on this Org cause you drive. I highly recommend changing your oil more frequently then 6000 miles, i ran a turbo in my 6, i changed oil and filter every 2000 miles. just my opinion though.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Did you read anything Bill posted? Why not change your tires every 5,000 then?

mmsmannyc

wow, bill is serious! i'm just gonna sit here for minute and chill.

TonySoprano

I also change my oil and filter every 2000 miles but using conventional oil. I am going to switch to synthetic and will increase the time to change the oil at 5000 and the filter at 2500. That sounds pretty reasonable...

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Please define "like new".

Does it mean:

It looks pretty?
It sounds good?
It runs?
The oil is "clear" in color?
Metal shards are not on the dipstick?

or perhaps:

The viscosity level of the oil has stayed in the proper range?
The nitration level is below 50%?
The oxidation level is below 50%?
The TBN value has not declined below 5.0?
The Insolubles/soot level isn't over 0.6%?
The flashpoint is over 380 degrees?



Whether you know what you are doing really isn't the question. It's the health of the engine, which you claim as being "like new" that I would like to know how you quantify and qualify.

I believed that at one time as well. However, I have learned since that engine types, driving conditions, and filter choice all combine to adversely affect how long a filter really should be used. In most Honda engines, 3500 miles is probably the longest a filter should be used, while Nissan engines can usually go 5k.


I've done 2 1 year oil change intervals on two vehicles to prove what can and can't be done on an oil change interval. I have had a recommendation from a lab to go 17k between oil changes with only one filter change. I may or may not continue that in the future, but I have proven that it can be done without an adverse effect on an engine.



I put my money where my mouth is while others do the "my brother's sister's wife's daugther's husband's second cousin who knows a mechanic says BLAH BLAH BLAH". There's a lot more to it than 8th party removed mechanic recommendations.......

TonySoprano

I like your way of thinking! Very well said..it seems like you know your stuff when it comes to this subject!

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

That's a pretty closeminded statement. When the results show there's no problem with doing this, why not?

Amsoil's been recommending these intervals for 30 years without problems. If you feel like living in the stoneages that's fine.

Question for everyone: Why is that people will so blindly follow outdated advice on oil changes, but at the same time completely neglect other critical fluids, such as transmission, brake, power steering etc...??

itdood

Speaking of close minded:

uh, yea, group "those people" into your neat little package. Yes, we all neglect our other fluids, whatever

So because I don't follow AMSOIL's rules I live in the stone age? This is just plain rehtoric.

itdood

I sure as heck don't need to know the chemical makeup of my used oil to figure out if something is heading south on my motor. It doesn't take rocket science.

If one of your oil analyses does come back bad, what in the world are you going to do about remediation? You'd end up doing most of what I do on a daily basis, or what I do when I change my oil every 3k (inspect and data log the ECU).

So if I had my oil analyzed and it met your healthy criteria, would that make you happy? Not me. What does that tell you about my timing belt, or knock counts, or ignition timing, or MAF signal, or injector pulse width, or O2 Voltage, or EGT, or OP/OT? I data log my Talon with an OBDII data logger hooked to my laptop. I know wayyyy more about my engine than you ever would by running my oil through lab tests.

I can tell you that my compression runs 165-170 across the board ('taint no blow by getting into my oil, what does that cover like 33% of the lab work?). My O2 voltage never dips below 0.91 v. My EGT never exceeds 1600f, I know for a fact I'm not destroying pistons. My timing holds @ 22* at WOT & 15 PSI boost, there isn't anything knocking in my engine, not even phantom knock from a failing bearing.

Oh, my water pump is shot and I'm doing the t-belt this weekend.

You do what you like, I'll do what I like. I didn't learn what I know from an "8th party removed mechanic". Implying that without even knowing me is just plain wrong. You have no idea what kind of experience I have with cars.

You also earlier called a remark I made "ignorant". I can tell you what I said was informed and stated in a lot of service recommendations, so calling it ignorant is mis-informed on your part.

nick778

If anyone is really interested in reseaching this subject in much more depth from experts in the field of lubrication with real world test results, I would recommend you go to the following site and you can make up your own mind based on your own situation:

...http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

What's Amsoil's "rules" have to do with anything? They're just guidelines that have been proven to hold up over many years of research. You don't want to have your oil analyzed, that's fine. There are people who actually make decisions based on facts, not guesswork, but whatever...

You religiously change your oil every 3k but leave the filter on for 6k? I would call that insane, just change it FGS.

Nick778 posted an excellent link, you might actually learn something.

itdood

No, I always change my filter with my oil. In a previous post I stated as such. Stop making assumptions about me, you've been wrong on all of them so far.

If amsoils "research" is so good, why are they the only one's to use it? I see no one else endorsing it or even trying to edge into their tiny niche market. And judging by their market share, the market doesn't approve of it either. I equate amsoil with amway, it's the same marketing technique and spin on facts.

You assume I make decisions based on guesswork, when actually I'm making deisions based on information that is much more valuable and timely than lab work on my oil. I outlined those in a post above. I know a lot more about my engine than any oil test could ever tell me, get over it.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

If you don't like the company, that's fine. To make comments like it's all marketing and spin is well, ignorant. Do you have anything to base your comments and please don't say your computer told you? BTW, their market share has experienced continuous growth over 30 years, but it's not worth arguing this point with you. Too childish.

As far as anaysis goes, YOU ARE COMPLETELY MISSING THE POINT. Your computer tells you a lot about the health of your engine. Fine, I don't dispute that. It doesn't tell you jack about your oil. You don't think that some people can a year between oil changes? That's an ignorant statement. Bill was correct in saying that and one doesn't have to be informed as to your background to see that. You may know a lot about tuning an engine, but you obviuosly don't know anything about tribology (look it up).

If you don't want to use analysis, fine, that's one thing. To make comments to others without knowing what you're talking about on the subject is a different ballgame.

Again, http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php , this is an excellent link on the subject. You obviously have some intelligence, why don't you read a little and learn something instead of always saying your computer tells all you need to know. You actually have to think a little bit though.

Quicksilver

iTrader: (1)

This is an interesting discussion, but is all the ridicule really necessary to get your points across? No one method or company can possibly have the cure all for any one engine. Each method/type/company will have it's long term advantages and disadvantages. It just depends on which method suites your driving and maintenance styles. I for one certainly appreciate the info provided in this post, but the manner in which some of you present it is total BS. You post as if your way/opinion is fact, when in fact it is just a recommendation. Present it as such, and we will read it as such. Present it as if you're some omnipotent being, and people tend to take offense. I'm certainly not going to name names or point out individuals, but please post respectfully and informatively.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Such an attempt was made, as I tried to learn the perspective of someone else's approach to knowing their engine was "like new".

While a portion of my question was answered, the accompanied verbal browbeating and attitiude from someone with a chip on their shoulder the size of an anvil was neither productive or appropriate. At that point, I decided to stop posting instead of potentially getting to learn something.






If anyone cares, Jeff92se's analysis results told him what was going to happen to his engine at least a year before his blew up. Jeff knew something was wrong by his inconsistent coolant consumption, and the analyses proved his fears. It was a cheap warning light in retrospect (although Jeff failed to follow through on it ).

Those who think only one tool or approach can tell them everything they need to know are doomed to be bit in the butt because they simply didn't consider other possibilities.


And the contentions regarding Amsoil being crap are tired and old and have been lab data proven to having the best potential for extended oil interval use for Maxima engines for over 2 years now.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

You're right, the quality of this thread did decline and I certainly contributed to that, contrary to what I normally do. It's just that the outright arrogance of certain posts pushed all the right buttons at the wrong times recently. I do apologize to those who were trying to glean useful information from this thread.