anyone use AUTO-RX in their max?
#1
anyone use AUTO-RX in their max?
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
was reading the info on their site, sounds like good quality stuff that would work , has anyone tried using this stuff in their cars,
any good results?
would u recommend it?
was reading the info on their site, sounds like good quality stuff that would work , has anyone tried using this stuff in their cars,
any good results?
would u recommend it?
#5
i already ordered it, someone else on the org recommended this to me , just wanted to see if there was anyone else with good experiences, for $60 hopefully it works, thanks for the replys ill keep u updated , if anyone else had experiences please post
thanks
thanks
#6
hey sal your better off using Justice Brothers emissions cleaning system http://www.justicebrothers.com/. check them out. stuff works amazing i put it in cars all day with great results...if you want i can get some...Tommy
#8
Check out this site http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php
The fanatics there all have good things to say about Frank and AutoRx. Considering how **** and how much experience a lot of these guys have, it seems that AutoRx is a quality product. I have no personal experience with it as yet though.
The fanatics there all have good things to say about Frank and AutoRx. Considering how **** and how much experience a lot of these guys have, it seems that AutoRx is a quality product. I have no personal experience with it as yet though.
#10
mark i just left u feedback , thanks
also the auto rx arrived, pretty fast shipping about 2-3 days, not bad
im gonna give it a try probally next week
directions on bottle say to
"install a new oil filter to catch all debris that will be removed from your engine.Pour auto rx directly into your engine as if you were adding oil. after 500 miles, replace oil and filter. repeat this process if vehicle has more than 100k"
Ill keep u guys updated how it turns out
hopefully it works
also the auto rx arrived, pretty fast shipping about 2-3 days, not bad
im gonna give it a try probally next week
directions on bottle say to
"install a new oil filter to catch all debris that will be removed from your engine.Pour auto rx directly into your engine as if you were adding oil. after 500 miles, replace oil and filter. repeat this process if vehicle has more than 100k"
Ill keep u guys updated how it turns out
hopefully it works
#12
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Can you run the engine hard? Or do you have to baby it for the 500 miles?
Jeff,
I haven't changed my driving habits at all. The only thing is they recommend using dino oil in conjunction with the treatment for 1500 miles. Then, you change the oil and filter with a dino oil for 2 to 3k, then resume normal changes.
In addition, over 100k vehicles must do a treatment for 1500 miles, then a flush 2k to 3k interval, then another treatment for 1500 miles, then a 2k to 3k flush interval, then resume normal changes.....
#13
So, 100k plus miles
1) New filter + Auto-RX for 1500
2) Flush? Means new oil/filter/no Auto RX for 2-3k. Dino oil prefered.
3) Another treatment with filter for 1500 miles(old oil).
4) Then use whatever filter/oil dino or synthetic.
Correct?
Oh and should I use just the cheapest filter out there?
Oh and someone go in with me so I can get the 3rd for less
BTW. My engine seems pretty clean right now. Matt Y did a good job with this engine oil change wise. But I want to get rid of any carbon in the combustion chambers that might be there after 114k
1) New filter + Auto-RX for 1500
2) Flush? Means new oil/filter/no Auto RX for 2-3k. Dino oil prefered.
3) Another treatment with filter for 1500 miles(old oil).
4) Then use whatever filter/oil dino or synthetic.
Correct?
Oh and should I use just the cheapest filter out there?
Oh and someone go in with me so I can get the 3rd for less
BTW. My engine seems pretty clean right now. Matt Y did a good job with this engine oil change wise. But I want to get rid of any carbon in the combustion chambers that might be there after 114k
#14
I've used it. Posted a reply about it once b4, but can't find it now that the search feature has been deactivated.
Used it earlier this year to stop a leak in my old van. Worked too. I think it was @6 or 7K miles ago, and the leak hasn't returned. Did it clean the engine? Can't tell. Being the oil nut that I am, I cut open the old filter, but it was perfectly clean as far as my eyes could tell. Did a 2nd application per the instructions and ended up leaving a small sample of used oil sit around for a week in a glass jar. There was a fine layer of silt-like gunk on the bottom of the jar when I emptied it, so I presume it was a result of the Auto Rx. I will say however that the engine seems to have more zip now. But that could be my imagination. Hard to tell for sure. Did a UOA this fall and the insolubles came back the lowest (0.2) of any I've personally done. Am I worried it might do some longterm harm? You betchya I am, but obviously not enough to not have used it in the 1st place. Will it get rid of carbon in the combustion chamber? Probably not. Oil doesn't circulate there to begin with. Would I recommend it? No, you have to decide for yourself. Would I use it again? To fix a leak, yes. But it won't fix a broken or worn out gasket. To clean an engine, only if I really, really knew for sure it were dirty. And then I might use a synthetic oil first. In a car with a oil sludge problem, probably. In a car with a history of running synthetic, no way! I think synthetic oils have a good enough track record at keeping an engine clean that Auto Rx would be a waste of $.
Hope this helps.
Used it earlier this year to stop a leak in my old van. Worked too. I think it was @6 or 7K miles ago, and the leak hasn't returned. Did it clean the engine? Can't tell. Being the oil nut that I am, I cut open the old filter, but it was perfectly clean as far as my eyes could tell. Did a 2nd application per the instructions and ended up leaving a small sample of used oil sit around for a week in a glass jar. There was a fine layer of silt-like gunk on the bottom of the jar when I emptied it, so I presume it was a result of the Auto Rx. I will say however that the engine seems to have more zip now. But that could be my imagination. Hard to tell for sure. Did a UOA this fall and the insolubles came back the lowest (0.2) of any I've personally done. Am I worried it might do some longterm harm? You betchya I am, but obviously not enough to not have used it in the 1st place. Will it get rid of carbon in the combustion chamber? Probably not. Oil doesn't circulate there to begin with. Would I recommend it? No, you have to decide for yourself. Would I use it again? To fix a leak, yes. But it won't fix a broken or worn out gasket. To clean an engine, only if I really, really knew for sure it were dirty. And then I might use a synthetic oil first. In a car with a oil sludge problem, probably. In a car with a history of running synthetic, no way! I think synthetic oils have a good enough track record at keeping an engine clean that Auto Rx would be a waste of $.
Hope this helps.
#15
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Can you run the engine hard? Or do you have to baby it for the 500 miles?
I've been told it does it's best work when hot, so you you shouldn't have any reservations about "driving" the car. Apparently it's around a 20wt. fluid and the 12 oz. won't alter the viscosity of the host oil.
#16
I used it prior to changing from dino to synthetic when I bought my 99 Max (39K) and it did an excellent job in cleaning for syn use. Used it on my son's 97 Sentra (99K) and it cleaned it up and now it purrs like a kitten. Using it now since the wife and me just traded in our vehicles for newer models and I want to run Mobil1 again. It works and there is plenty of satisfied users in the "Bobs The Oil Guy" forum. You have experts in that forum who have chemistry, mechanical engineering degrees and who work exclusively with fuel and oil testing and know their stuff. They all agree on one thing. It works. Just my two cents.
Pedro
Pedro
#17
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
So, 100k plus miles
1) New filter + Auto-RX for 1500
2) Flush? Means new oil/filter/no Auto RX for 2-3k. Dino oil prefered.
3) Another treatment with filter for 1500 miles(old oil).
4) Then use whatever filter/oil dino or synthetic.
Correct?
Oh and should I use just the cheapest filter out there?
Oh and someone go in with me so I can get the 3rd for less
BTW. My engine seems pretty clean right now. Matt Y did a good job with this engine oil change wise. But I want to get rid of any carbon in the combustion chambers that might be there after 114k
1) New filter + Auto-RX for 1500
2) Flush? Means new oil/filter/no Auto RX for 2-3k. Dino oil prefered.
3) Another treatment with filter for 1500 miles(old oil).
4) Then use whatever filter/oil dino or synthetic.
Correct?
Oh and should I use just the cheapest filter out there?
Oh and someone go in with me so I can get the 3rd for less
BTW. My engine seems pretty clean right now. Matt Y did a good job with this engine oil change wise. But I want to get rid of any carbon in the combustion chambers that might be there after 114k
Don't cheap out on filter choice.....you want something decent in there......like the Napa Gold you've been using....or the 'yota filter.
#18
Soooooo. How has your experience been?
Originally Posted by bill99gxe
Yep, that's the sequence.
Don't cheap out on filter choice.....you want something decent in there......like the Napa Gold you've been using....or the 'yota filter.
Don't cheap out on filter choice.....you want something decent in there......like the Napa Gold you've been using....or the 'yota filter.
#19
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Soooooo. How has your experience been?
The cars still run.
I haven't completed the recommended sequence, so I don't have much to report.
I'll probably take a 3k dino oil sample of one or both cars and compare it to the 3k Amsoil Series 2000 samples that I took in the summer to see what differences, if any, in wear exist......
#20
I actually used this stuff back in the spring on my jeep and with the second application my rear main seal leak was stopped. The first treatment really cleaned crap out of my engine.. I compared the filter that had been on 3K miles to the filter that was on for 500 miles and auto-rx and the 3K mile filter looked brand new compared to the post auto-rx filter. I actually used the oil guy forum and my SN was the same so you may see the posts in there. I am no pro but I have learned alot since my jeeping days....
#21
Well...just for the record, my leaky van...the one that stopped leaking after using Auto Rx....started leaking again...@ 8K miles after using the Rx stuff.
So I bit the bullet and had the rear main seal replaced a week ago. Big $$$'s, but no more leak. It seems to be a good product, but it doesn't cure all ailments.
So I bit the bullet and had the rear main seal replaced a week ago. Big $$$'s, but no more leak. It seems to be a good product, but it doesn't cure all ailments.
#23
Originally Posted by gabex
I have 108k miles, and I want to switch to Amsoil synethic oil. Should I spend/waste money buying Auto-RX and completing the routine?
It is will be the best prep for going to Amsoil. If you do not want to spend the $$, go with Amsoil Engine Flush.
#28
Originally Posted by 2002 Maxima SE
You can achieve the same thing by using ATF fluid in your oil (or gas for that matter). Plus it is a lot cheaper.
I'm still not real comfortable using a fluid not designed for the engine. I would rather use something designed for going into the engine. To each his own.
I am on my second "flushing" of Auto-Rx in my 94. I don't anticipate any real results until the end of the year, since I still have to run another 2k to 3k interval on dino oil before going back to synthetic. I'll probably sample that dino interval at 3k to compare it to the last 3k interval I had on my Amsoil Series 2k oil.....
#29
[QUOTE=bill99gxe]I'm still not real comfortable using a fluid not designed for the engine. I would rather use something designed for going into the engine. To each his own....[QUOTE]
I agree.
Is this supposed to clean the combustion chamber like the method that prescribes a few drops of ATF in each cylinder applied through the spark plug hole? Or is this just a fix for leaky seals?
Although the website says within 25K miles you are getting build up...would doing this at 32K provide protection benefit, longevity, or unknown?
And this is cleaning a different area than what a BG44 would clean..right?
Man so much fun stuff...not enough time to do it...LOL.
I agree.
Is this supposed to clean the combustion chamber like the method that prescribes a few drops of ATF in each cylinder applied through the spark plug hole? Or is this just a fix for leaky seals?
Although the website says within 25K miles you are getting build up...would doing this at 32K provide protection benefit, longevity, or unknown?
And this is cleaning a different area than what a BG44 would clean..right?
Man so much fun stuff...not enough time to do it...LOL.
#30
you guys i just put this auto rx in the car and change the filter...i'm in the process of driving 1500 miles then drain and change filter and oil....then another 2000-3000 miles then change oil and filter again...i'll let everyone know how it work out...
#31
Just bought 3 bottles of this stuff. I'll be using it on my '92 GXE with 186000KM on it. Also on my Grand Caravan with 108000KM on it. Still debating if I should through some in the tranny on the Max. I'll let you all know how it goes. The Max should have the 1500miles on it less than two months.
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
This is all great news, but what are engine seals? i keep asked this question in the forums but nobody seems to have an answer, im sorry if its a stupid question, but i really need to know what is ment by "rear main seal?" are we taking about gaskets here?
#34
seals are gaskets. rear main seal is a gasket b/w the engine and transmission.
I just finished cleaning phase and i'm starting the rinse phase. I didn't have any leaks before, so I couldn't tell you if it did anything. But the car still runs fine. No dramatic difference, but this car was well maintained the last 50k miles. I'll post again after the rinse phase. maybe the inside of my engine will bling like some on the oil forum. but even if it does, I won't take off my valve cover or anything to find out.
I just finished cleaning phase and i'm starting the rinse phase. I didn't have any leaks before, so I couldn't tell you if it did anything. But the car still runs fine. No dramatic difference, but this car was well maintained the last 50k miles. I'll post again after the rinse phase. maybe the inside of my engine will bling like some on the oil forum. but even if it does, I won't take off my valve cover or anything to find out.
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by SamMan23
seals are gaskets. rear main seal is a gasket b/w the engine and transmission.
I just finished cleaning phase and i'm starting the rinse phase. I didn't have any leaks before, so I couldn't tell you if it did anything. But the car still runs fine. No dramatic difference, but this car was well maintained the last 50k miles. I'll post again after the rinse phase. maybe the inside of my engine will bling like some on the oil forum. but even if it does, I won't take off my valve cover or anything to find out.
I just finished cleaning phase and i'm starting the rinse phase. I didn't have any leaks before, so I couldn't tell you if it did anything. But the car still runs fine. No dramatic difference, but this car was well maintained the last 50k miles. I'll post again after the rinse phase. maybe the inside of my engine will bling like some on the oil forum. but even if it does, I won't take off my valve cover or anything to find out.
Im going to also use this auto rx stuff very very soon! i hope im satisfied!
#36
The REAR main seal is at the rear of the engine (side closest to the transmission; the "front" of the engine is where the belts/crank pulley are located)
It's a seal around the rear end of the crankshaft(?) which seals off the block from allowing any oil to leak out. Replacing it involves dropping the tranny and removing the flywheel/driveplate I think.
It's a seal around the rear end of the crankshaft(?) which seals off the block from allowing any oil to leak out. Replacing it involves dropping the tranny and removing the flywheel/driveplate I think.
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