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What oil and oil filter should I use? Can I switch to synthetic? What viscosity?

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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 05:56 AM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by QwikKota
I'm a dealer as well. The filter prices are going up $2 each for my truck and a few cents for the Maxima. I'm considering buying some Mobil 1 filters instead but snagging some Amsoil oil before the prices go up in March.

FYI: If anyone is at a website that requires you to search for a filter based on the car and not the filter # a 1992 Mitsu Eclipse 2.0 Turbo will pop up the M1-105 filter.
Prices on the EaO 12 and EaO-13 filters, those used on late model Maximas, are unchanged. There's less expensive filters out there, but the EaO filters are the best of the best and they represent a great value if you intend to extend OCIs.
Old Mar 5, 2008 | 09:37 PM
  #362  
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question i work at o reillys and im steady arugin with ppl about this oil issues we havein..

Is it safe to put syn oil in a car that has over 132k miles or is it betta to stick with the reg oil?
Old Mar 6, 2008 | 09:09 PM
  #363  
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Will 15208-9E000 fit Nissan Quest 2007?

Sorry for posting here, but Quest forum is pretty useless.
Quest 07 is supposed to use 15208-65F00, so the real question is whether there's enough room for the bigger 15208-9E000?
Old Mar 6, 2008 | 10:31 PM
  #364  
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Originally Posted by danmaz
Sorry for posting here, but Quest forum is pretty useless.
Quest 07 is supposed to use 15208-65F00, so the real question is whether there's enough room for the bigger 15208-9E000?
Yes it will fit...I know 07 Quest comes with the vq35de and the 9E000 filter will fit it...
Old Mar 8, 2008 | 08:05 PM
  #365  
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my 2000 max has 135k miles on i guy i got it off from tol me to run 20w50 in it im thinkin the 20w50 is a lil too thick for it so i change it to 20w50 and now car runs sluggish like its pullin somethin should i change da oil an add 10w30 or leave it? and should i change it to syntec or leave it with reg oil...
Old Mar 9, 2008 | 04:55 PM
  #366  
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Originally Posted by p2kmax
my 2000 max has 135k miles on i guy i got it off from tol me to run 20w50 in it im thinkin the 20w50 is a lil too thick for it so i change it to 20w50 and now car runs sluggish like its pullin somethin should i change da oil an add 10w30 or leave it? and should i change it to syntec or leave it with reg oil...
It's difficult to offer advice without knowing more about the history of the vehicle. Did the previous owner use synthetics or petroleum oil? How often did he/she change the oil? Is the engine sludged or varnished? Does the engine consume or leak oil? What are you trying to achieve by switching to synthetics?

Switching to a synthetic in itself will not cause damage to your engine. However, if the engine leaks, is dirty, or if it consumes oil you would be well advised to stay with petroleum oil. However, if the engine is mechanically sound you should be able to convert to synthetics without any issues. Some people would recommend you use some sort of an engine flush or cleaning process prior to converting. There's another school of thought which is to simply install the synthetic oil and monitor it closely...if it becomes prematurely dirty (from cleaning-away built-up deposits in the engine), be prepared to change it frequently until things stabilize. Again, you have to ask yourself what you are trying to achieve switching to synthetics at this point???

Concerning the viscosity, the only thing you can do is try a 10w-30 and see how it does. People who don't know any better will arbitrarily use a heavier weight oil, thinking it will resist breakdown better than a lighter viscosity oil will....but using an oil that is too thick can have other adverse effects in terms of increased engine wear, and reduced performance and economy. If you try 10w-30 and your engine becomes noisy and/or it consumes oil, you may have to go back to a heavier weight oil.

Good luck...
Old Mar 14, 2008 | 05:44 PM
  #367  
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Hi,

I have a '02 Maxima GLE with 88 K miles on it. I am a newbie in this sort of stuff, but I am definitely interested in getting the best out of my car based on other expert's experience and suggestions.

Based on the original post at the beginning of the thread, I have purchased 5 qt.'s of Castrol GTX 5w/30 and a Mobil M1-105 filter from Kragen.

I went to Jiffy Lube to get the oil and filter change done. The guy said right away that the filter is not going to fit in my car. I said it should and asked him to give it a try. He gave a reply saying he didn't need to check because he knows that it won't fit (he said "it's too big, you need a smaller filter like M1-108").

My question is does any mechanical change need to be done to make this filter fit in my '02 maxima ? Or does the Jiffy Lube tech. not know what he's talking about ?

Any other place where I can get the filter changed ?
Old Mar 14, 2008 | 06:55 PM
  #368  
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Originally Posted by avis
Hi,

I have a '02 Maxima GLE with 88 K miles on it. I am a newbie in this sort of stuff, but I am definitely interested in getting the best out of my car based on other expert's experience and suggestions.

Based on the original post at the beginning of the thread, I have purchased 5 qt.'s of Castrol GTX 5w/30 and a Mobil M1-105 filter from Kragen.

I went to Jiffy Lube to get the oil and filter change done. The guy said right away that the filter is not going to fit in my car. I said it should and asked him to give it a try. He gave a reply saying he didn't need to check because he knows that it won't fit (he said "it's too big, you need a smaller filter like M1-108").

My question is does any mechanical change need to be done to make this filter fit in my '02 maxima ? Or does the Jiffy Lube tech. not know what he's talking about ?

Any other place where I can get the filter changed ?

According to my reference guide, the M1-110 is the correct filter for your application. The M1-110 and the M1-108 are very similar, but the 110 is nearly an inch longer than the M1-108 is.

The M1-105 is roughly an inch larger in diameter than the M1-108/M1-110 is, and perhaps that larger diameter creates a clearance issue. Some of our members claim to have used them, however.

The M1-105 and the M1-108/M1-110 differ not only in size, but more importantly in the calibration of the by-pass valve. The by-pass valve on the 105 is calibrated to open at a higher psid than than it does on the 108/110 and this higher setting could potentially restrict oil flow on cold starts or in high-demand conditions.

Recommend you stick with the filter that's right for your car. A larger filter will in theory provide greater capacity, but the additional surface area provided by the larger filter shouldn't be a factor since I assume you'll be changing your oil at traditional intervals.

Last edited by talkinghorse; Mar 15, 2008 at 07:01 AM.
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 10:22 PM
  #369  
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Hi,

thanks for the tips. But I already have the Mobil M1-105 filter and I am wondering where I can get it fit. The guy at jiffy lube said he "knows" that it won't fit. Any other service store that can do the same thing ?
Old Mar 20, 2008 | 08:58 AM
  #370  
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Originally Posted by avis
Hi,

thanks for the tips. But I already have the Mobil M1-105 filter and I am wondering where I can get it fit. The guy at jiffy lube said he "knows" that it won't fit. Any other service store that can do the same thing ?
Either it will fit, or it won't; and if you're bent on using it, the best way to find out is to try it. Some people with cars like yours claim to use this filter, so it should screw on to your engine.

But the message here is that the 105 is not the correct filter for your car. Just because the filter will fit, does not mean that the internal components are calibrated to the requirements of your engine. And in this case, the setting of the by-pass valve on the 105 is higher than what is specified by Nissan.

Perhaps you can exchange the 105 for the correct filter.

Last edited by talkinghorse; Mar 20, 2008 at 07:13 PM.
Old Mar 26, 2008 | 11:49 AM
  #371  
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Originally Posted by bill99gxe
Recommended oils for all Maxima engines, ranked in order of preference based upon my own observations:
  • Synthetic oil:

    Amsoil TSO Series 2000 0W/30 Synthetic
    Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W/30
    Amsoil ASF 5W/30 Synthetic
    Redline 5W/30

    Drain interval: Up to 10k with oil filter change halfway through chosen interval (i.e. 8k drain interval -> 4k oil filter change)

On the Amsoil site, they list the 5w/30 as being a 25k mile and the 0w/30 as a 30k mile interval. (or a year if it comes 1st....)

Why the suggested the 10,000mile interval above and the discrepancy???

Last edited by 3degree; Mar 26, 2008 at 11:51 AM.
Old Mar 26, 2008 | 07:51 PM
  #372  
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Originally Posted by 3degree
On the Amsoil site, they list the 5w/30 as being a 25k mile and the 0w/30 as a 30k mile interval. (or a year if it comes 1st....)

Why the suggested the 10,000mile interval above and the discrepancy???
AMSOIL Lubricants are top quality oils. AMSOIL uses only premiere components to blend their oils and their oils undergo extensive laboratory and field testing. AMSOIL Inc has also earned ISO Quality certification.

AMSOIL will definitely perform as advertised by the company and they back the products with a written warranty. AMSOIL guarantees their oils to perform up to those limits (25K for the 100% synthetic or 35K for the 0w-30, or 1 year) in passenger vehicles operated in Normal service with engines in mechanically sound condition. Oil change recommendations for engines operated in Severe Service are half that mileage, but remain at 1 year. I can tell you with certainty that many AMSOIL users push their oils to the maximum limit recommended by AMSOIL, and beyond.

I've said for years that AMSOIL is not just for those who take excellent care of their vehicles...it's also ideal for those who neglect their vehicles. For those who are very particular about their cars, AMSOIL will provide outstanding performance and protection regardless of temperature extremes or operating conditions. For those who neglect their cars, the oils will continue to provide protection way beyond the performance and time limits of petroleum oils. So if someone neglects to change their oil, the extended drain capabilities of AMSOIL will get them through to the next change.

With that said, most of our members fall into the first group of people...those who take excellent care of their vehicles. Those people typically buy AMSOIL for the performance value and are interested in the products to the point where they often have their used oil analyzed by a lab to measure its condition, and monitor the presence of wear metals and other contaminants. While AMSOIL motor oils will resist break-down and remain serviceable much longer than other oils will, the oil will lose some of its optimal properties the longer it is in service...and that's normal. Those who are **** about their vehicles and the oil they use are less tolerant of this aging effect of the oil and will change it more frequently than the outer limits prescribed by AMSOIL.

Last edited by talkinghorse; Apr 4, 2008 at 06:09 PM.
Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:45 PM
  #373  
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i only use Synthetic oil!!!!! and lucus oil additive its the best caz it does not thin out so fast.......
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 06:09 AM
  #374  
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Originally Posted by dc_maxima
i only use Synthetic oil!!!!! and lucus oil additive its the best caz it does not thin out so fast.......
A properly formulated synthetic oil doesn't require additional additives. In fact, the major producers of synthetic oils recommend specifically against using additives.

Companies such as AMSOIL, Mobil and others spend large amounts of money designing their products to meet certain performance thresholds. When you enter a variable such as an off-the-shelf additive you are effectively and blindly altering the formulations the experts at these companies have developed. Another consideration is that should you ever encounter a problem with the oil, I would anticipate the oil manufacturer to quickly point to the introduction of the additive as the root cause.

By using a (quality) synthetic oil, you've already taken a major step in improving the performance and longevity of your engine. My recommendation is to stop playing chemist, unless you really know the effect the additive is having on the lubricant and your engine.

Last edited by talkinghorse; Apr 6, 2008 at 06:14 AM.
Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:58 PM
  #375  
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about oil changing intervals. it has been 3 months since my last oil change, but I haven't done 3000 miles yet. I'm using Castrol GTX, should I change the oil?
Old Apr 11, 2008 | 09:23 AM
  #376  
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^
No, you're fine.
Old Apr 11, 2008 | 06:25 PM
  #377  
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Originally Posted by 00MaxSE
^
No, you're fine.
so you mean I can keep driving until 3k miles, don't care about the time inteval, and then change the oil ?
Old Apr 11, 2008 | 06:53 PM
  #378  
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Originally Posted by jasonmax
so you mean I can keep driving until 3k miles, don't care about the time inteval, and then change the oil ?
Yes, 3 months is nothing and you dont' have to change at 3k. At the least, just go by the manual. 3,750.
Old May 1, 2008 | 09:30 AM
  #379  
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Nissan OEM 15208-65F00 (specified for VQ35DE by Nissan dealer; refuse to purchase this filter as it has cardboard endcaps like low quality Fram filters; insist on the dealer using the 15208-9E000 oil filter as it has a better overall construction quality)

Does the 15208-9E000 oil filter fit in a 2004 Maxima? (Its mentioned for use in older Maxima's.)

Anyone in a 6th generation use this filter?
Old May 3, 2008 | 05:01 PM
  #380  
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Originally Posted by LandsEnd
Nissan OEM 15208-65F00 (specified for VQ35DE by Nissan dealer; refuse to purchase this filter as it has cardboard endcaps like low quality Fram filters; insist on the dealer using the 15208-9E000 oil filter as it has a better overall construction quality)

Does the 15208-9E000 oil filter fit in a 2004 Maxima? (Its mentioned for use in older Maxima's.)

Anyone in a 6th generation use this filter?
well, it's the same engine...so...
I don't know. I was thinking getting better oil and better filter...
Old May 3, 2008 | 06:30 PM
  #381  
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Originally Posted by LandsEnd
Nissan OEM 15208-65F00 (specified for VQ35DE by Nissan dealer; refuse to purchase this filter as it has cardboard endcaps like low quality Fram filters; insist on the dealer using the 15208-9E000 oil filter as it has a better overall construction quality)

Does the 15208-9E000 oil filter fit in a 2004 Maxima? (Its mentioned for use in older Maxima's.)

Anyone in a 6th generation use this filter?
Different model years take different filters. The 15208-65F00 is the correct filter for your 2004 model...the 15208-9E000 is essentially the same filter, but it's an inch longer. You should be able to use the 15208-9E000 if there is sufficient clearance.
Old May 9, 2008 | 01:08 PM
  #382  
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I just brought some Mobil1, and I decided to go longer draining interval, which oil filter is better than the OEM?
Old May 9, 2008 | 02:42 PM
  #383  
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Originally Posted by jasonmax
I just brought some Mobil1, and I decided to go longer draining interval, which oil filter is better than the OEM?
Mobil 1 filter or Wix is good too.
Old May 10, 2008 | 06:05 AM
  #384  
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Originally Posted by jasonmax
I just brought some Mobil1, and I decided to go longer draining interval, which oil filter is better than the OEM?
Originally Posted by 00MaxSE
Mobil 1 filter or Wix is good too.
Agree with 00MaxSE that both the M-1 filter and Wix are very good choices for use with M-1 motor oil; however, the ultimate choice depends on the length of your desired drain intervals.

If you're going to run the oil 7500 miles or less, the Wix will serve you well...it has top quality construction, materials, and assembly. If you're going to run longer than 7500 miles, the M-1 filter would be a better choice as the synthetic fiber blend filter media is more efficient than traditional cellulose and it will hold up better for extended OCI's.

Concerning cost, Wix filters are in the $6-range and I believe the M-1 filters cost around $12.

For a standard-tier/OEM replacement filter, the NAPA Gold (made by Wix) or the Purolator Pure-One are also good choices, they're available locally, and they're also in the $6-range.

The AMSOIL Ea filter is the best of the best (highest efficiency and longest service life); but since you've already decided to use Mobil-1 oil, any of the filters mentioned above (M-1, WIX, NAPA or Pure-One) will be superior to the OEM filter...it just depends on how much you want to spend and the service life you expect from the oil and filter.

Last edited by talkinghorse; May 10, 2008 at 06:07 AM.
Old May 10, 2008 | 02:02 PM
  #385  
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Originally Posted by talkinghorse
Agree with 00MaxSE that both the M-1 filter and Wix are very good choices for use with M-1 motor oil; however, the ultimate choice depends on the length of your desired drain intervals.

If you're going to run the oil 7500 miles or less, the Wix will serve you well...it has top quality construction, materials, and assembly. If you're going to run longer than 7500 miles, the M-1 filter would be a better choice as the synthetic fiber blend filter media is more efficient than traditional cellulose and it will hold up better for extended OCI's.

Concerning cost, Wix filters are in the $6-range and I believe the M-1 filters cost around $12.

For a standard-tier/OEM replacement filter, the NAPA Gold (made by Wix) or the Purolator Pure-One are also good choices, they're available locally, and they're also in the $6-range.

The AMSOIL Ea filter is the best of the best (highest efficiency and longest service life); but since you've already decided to use Mobil-1 oil, any of the filters mentioned above (M-1, WIX, NAPA or Pure-One) will be superior to the OEM filter...it just depends on how much you want to spend and the service life you expect from the oil and filter.
wow, thanks bro. this is a lot of information.
since I usually drive my car in city (stop and go), I think I will go 5000mi or 6month drain interval. they place that I take my car for service uses nissan oem filter and they charge me $7 for one filter. so I think may be I can go something a lot batter but not more expensive.
I'll go M1-110, but it says M1-108 on Mobil's website.
Old May 15, 2008 | 08:03 PM
  #386  
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has anybody ever seen the Mobil 1 10w-30 high mileage oil in a jug. Ive been using this high mileage mobil 1 oil, but i hate buying the quarts where i seen Mobil 1 10w-30 is in a jug but not the high mileage
Old May 17, 2008 | 06:59 PM
  #387  
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Originally Posted by maxx0831
has anybody ever seen the Mobil 1 10w-30 high mileage oil in a jug. Ive been using this high mileage mobil 1 oil, but i hate buying the quarts where i seen Mobil 1 10w-30 is in a jug but not the high mileage
I saw the 10W-30 high millage in jug at walmart, today.
Old May 23, 2008 | 06:36 AM
  #388  
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?

What about Amsoil 5w-30? Using a 0w-30 seems kinda like i won't get the protection i need. Does anyone have anymore info on this?
Old May 23, 2008 | 09:50 AM
  #389  
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Originally Posted by Nismozx720
What about Amsoil 5w-30? Using a 0w-30 seems kinda like i won't get the protection i need. Does anyone have anymore info on this?
AMSOIL 5w-30 is an outstanding lubricant. AMSOIL also offers a premium 0w-30 that's their top tier motor oil...it will provide all the protection you need in the most extreme operating conditions. See my post in the Group Deals section and send me a PM if you' like a quote or need additional information on any of the products.

Last edited by talkinghorse; May 23, 2008 at 04:52 PM.
Old May 25, 2008 | 01:29 PM
  #390  
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where to get the M-105?

Originally Posted by talkinghorse
According to my reference guide, the M1-110 is the correct filter for your application. The M1-110 and the M1-108 are very similar, but the 110 is nearly an inch longer than the M1-108 is.

The M1-105 is roughly an inch larger in diameter than the M1-108/M1-110 is, and perhaps that larger diameter creates a clearance issue. Some of our members claim to have used them, however.

The M1-105 and the M1-108/M1-110 differ not only in size, but more importantly in the calibration of the by-pass valve. The by-pass valve on the 105 is calibrated to open at a higher psid than than it does on the 108/110 and this higher setting could potentially restrict oil flow on cold starts or in high-demand conditions.

Recommend you stick with the filter that's right for your car. A larger filter will in theory provide greater capacity, but the additional surface area provided by the larger filter shouldn't be a factor since I assume you'll be changing your oil at traditional intervals.
According to the very first post in this thread, by Bill99GXE,
Recommended Oil Filters for VQ engines, ranked in order of preference based upon my own observations:

* Mobil 1 M1-105 (fits VQ35DE only)
* Nissan OEM 15208-9E000 ONLY (for all VQ30DE and VQ35DE engines)
* Mobil 1 M1-110 (fits both VQ engines, but bypass valve isn't as good as M1-105 filter)
* Amsoil SDF-20 (fits both VQ engines)
But you're saying that the M-105 has a different setting for the bypass valve. W

What's your reference for that information, and what exactly is the PSI difference for the two bypass valves?

I'm having a lot of difficulty finding the M-105 in my local stores, and may have to go back to the M-108. Giving the very large size difference between the 105 (which looks like an oil filter) and the 108 (which looks like a child's teacup), I'm reluctant to do that unless I need to.

I've used the 105 filter since my first oil change, 70K miles ago. No clearance problems at all. I'll attempt a picture before I remove this one.

I've not posted in a long time, so if my profile doesn't say so, it's an 02 SE, six speed.
Old May 25, 2008 | 01:56 PM
  #391  
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a couple other things: the K&N HP-1008 is the specified filter; the 1008 seems a bit larger, with the same relief valve pressure. Anyone used the HP-1008?

Finally, if the relief valve pressure is 11-17 psi, doesn't that mean that it will open somewhere between 11 and 17 psi? If so, does it really matter that another filter opens at 13-17? Both open up somewhere before 17 PSI, right?

I'm too impatient to wait for answers for this oil change (75K) so I'm going with the Mobil 1 M108, and will revisit over the next 6 months, before the 80K change
Old May 25, 2008 | 02:35 PM
  #392  
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i use the m110 for my 98 max. And i use mobil 1 synthetic 10w30
Old May 25, 2008 | 04:20 PM
  #393  
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Originally Posted by SkyDaver
According to the very first post in this thread, by Bill99GXE,


But you're saying that the M-105 has a different setting for the bypass valve. W
Yes

Originally Posted by SkyDaver
What's your reference for that information, and what exactly is the PSI difference for the two bypass valves?
Since I deal in synthetic lubricants and filtration products, I have access to a lot of reference material. The M1-105 by-pass opens between 13 and 19 psid and the M1-108 and M1-110 open between 8 and 11 psid.

Originally Posted by SkyDaver
I'm having a lot of difficulty finding the M-105 in my local stores, and may have to go back to the M-108. Giving the very large size difference between the 105 (which looks like an oil filter) and the 108 (which looks like a child's teacup), I'm reluctant to do that unless I need to.
Why don't you try the M1-110? It's properly calibrated for your engine and it's roughly an inch longer than the 108.

How long do you run your oil between changes, and what makes you feel it is necessary to use a larger filter than what is specified? A larger filter won't be any more efficient than a smaller filter will, everything else being equal. A larger filter should, however, have more capacity. Mobil 1 filters contain a good amount of filtering material so there shouldn't be any reason why a properly sized filter will become loaded up if changed regularly.
Old May 28, 2008 | 11:02 AM
  #394  
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I have a 2005 Maxima. I've been using Mobil 1 5w 30 and Bosch Oil Filters since there was 40k miles on the car. Now I have 80k miles and was pondering switching to Amsoil. I have questions concerning switching oils and general information -



1) Will there be any "benefits" in switching from Mobil 1 to Amsoil considering my mileage?

2) Should I stop using Bosch Oil Filters?

3) Which oil filter is a better application for my car - M 105 or Amsoil?

4) Will I have a problem with M105 fitting my car?

5) Will this truly be a problem with my car concerning the M105 filter?
"restrict oil flow on cold starts or in high-demand conditions"

6) I live in the Washington, DC metro and Winters are ~low 30's and Summers are ~ mid
to high 90's.

Should I switch from 5w30 to 10w30 in the summer months and revert to 5w30
in the winter months?



Thanks in advance!

Last edited by jrpaytonAlpha06; May 28, 2008 at 11:04 AM.
Old May 28, 2008 | 05:32 PM
  #395  
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Originally Posted by jrpaytonAlpha06
I have a 2005 Maxima. I've been using Mobil 1 5w 30 and Bosch Oil Filters since there was 40k miles on the car. Now I have 80k miles and was pondering switching to Amsoil. I have questions concerning switching oils and general information -

1) Will there be any "benefits" in switching from Mobil 1 to Amsoil considering my mileage?

2) Should I stop using Bosch Oil Filters?

3) Which oil filter is a better application for my car - M 105 or Amsoil?

4) Will I have a problem with M105 fitting my car?

5) Will this truly be a problem with my car concerning the M105 filter?
"restrict oil flow on cold starts or in high-demand conditions"

6) I live in the Washington, DC metro and Winters are ~low 30's and Summers are ~ mid
to high 90's.

Should I switch from 5w30 to 10w30 in the summer months and revert to 5w30
in the winter months?



Thanks in advance!
There's a very wide variety of products available on the market today, and those sold by reputable companies should work as advertised. However, as with most products, motor oils and filters differ in quality and some perform better than others.

As you probably know, I sell AMSOIL products. What you may not know is that I began using synthetics in the mid-70's, shortly after they were introduced. I initially started with a Conoco synthetic oil called DN-600 fluid (Polar Start) and then switched to Mobil-1. I began using AMSOIL in the early 80's, switched on and off between Mobil and AMSOIL during the 80's and then locked on to AMSOIL in the late 80's because I felt then (and still do today), that it is a superior product. While I do sell AMSOIL products, I initially signed up as a Dealer to have access to the products and to save money. Today I sell a lot of oil, transmission and gear oils, filters and other products to hundreds of customers across the US, Canada, and have even shipped to Europe. Many of my customers have some very expensive cars, trucks, motorcycles and RVs that they trust to AMSOIL. AMSOIL is not my primary means of income; but like most of us, I want the best performing products for use in my car. I use and sell AMSOIL because I believe in the products and value the integrity upon which the company was founded and upon which it operates today.

Originally Posted by jrpaytonAlpha06
1) Will there be any "benefits" in switching from Mobil 1 to Amsoil considering my mileage?
Mobil 1 is a good product; it is widely available; it is competitively priced; and your engine will run for a long time with it. AMSOIL is widely considered to be a performance and quality upgrade to Mobil 1, especially if you intend to extend your drain intervals. Unlike most other lubricant manufacturers, AMSOIL formulates their products for performance versus a target price. While other lubricant manufacturers prefer to sell lower cost lubricants and encourage their customers to change them frequently, AMSOIL's premiere base stocks and robust additive packages allow customers to use the oils for extended drains...this results in better performance, increased component reliability and longevity, a cost savings to the customer and less of an environmental impact. AMSOIL motor oils display outstanding low temperature performance, wear protection, low volatility, high-temperature viscosity retention, and excellent resistance to chemical degradation over extended drain intervals. Not scientific, but I have a lot of customers who are former Mobil-1 users and many comment on how much quieter and smoother their engines run with AMSOIL.
Originally Posted by jrpaytonAlpha06

2) Should I stop using Bosch Oil Filters?
Not necessarily. Bosch filters meet OEM specifications. If you change them in accordance with Nissan's recommendations, they will do an adequate job. AMSOIL Ea filters are unquestionably the best performing filters on the market today...they are the most efficient, they have tremendous capacity, they are assembled with the highest quality components by one of the nation's premiere filter manufacturers (Wix), and they are designed to support extended drain intervals. If you intend to switch to one of AMSOIL's extended drain oils, I would recommend you use the AMSOIL filter as it is designed for longevity and performance.

Originally Posted by jrpaytonAlpha06

3) Which oil filter is a better application for my car - M 105 or Amsoil?
As I have explained in previous posts, the calibration of the by-pass valve on the M1-105 is higher than it is for the M1-108 or 110 models. Mobil 1 filters are high quality filters. AMSOIL filters are a step above Mobil-1 filters...AMSOIL Ea filters are much more efficient than Mobil-1 filters and AMSOIL filters are designed to be used for up to 1 year or 25,000 miles.

Originally Posted by jrpaytonAlpha06

4) Will I have a problem with M105 fitting my car?
I don't know. Many people use them on 5th Gen cars, but the 2005 model calls for the smaller M1-108 or AMSOIL EaO-12. Other model years of the 5th Gen call for the longer M1-110 or EaO-13, so you could have a clearance issue.

Originally Posted by jrpaytonAlpha06
5) Will this truly be a problem with my car concerning the M105 filter?
"restrict oil flow on cold starts or in high-demand conditions"
I'm not an engineer, but by-pass valves are calibrated differently for a reason. The purpose of the by-pass valve is to assure adequate oil flow to the engine if the pressure differential across the filter is too great. If the valve is calibrated too high, oil flow could be restricted on cold starts, in high demand conditions, or if the filter were to become clogged.


Originally Posted by jrpaytonAlpha06
6) I live in the Washington, DC metro and Winters are ~low 30's and Summers are ~ mid to high 90's. Should I switch from 5w30 to 10w30 in the summer months and revert to 5w30 in the winter months?
No need to do that with a good quality oil. 5w-30 is a good all season oil. I use AMSOIL 0w-30 year 'round and I live in south Texas. Getting 29 mpg on my I-30, 115K on the engine, no visible oil deposits, ~10K OCIs, no leaks, no seepage and no oil consumption.

Your continued use of Mobil-1 and Bosch filters will serve you well if you stay with Nissan's service recommendations. But the bottom line is that there are other alternatives available to you if you are searching for higher quality products.

Please send me a PM if you have any other questions or would like tech data sheets on any AMSOIL product.

Last edited by talkinghorse; May 28, 2008 at 08:08 PM.
Old May 29, 2008 | 08:00 AM
  #396  
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Thanks for the detail information! I will send you a PM soon for more specifics and tech sheets.
Old May 29, 2008 | 08:46 AM
  #397  
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From: Jackson, MS
question for talkinghorse...

Hey talkinghorse...

Thanks for all the good info! I have another question for you... About 2 or 3 years ago, Mobil 1 stopped listing "fully synthetic" on many of their products (possibly all of them, but i'm not 100%). Before that time, the Mobil 1 line was definitely all synthetic oil, as opposed to some percentage of a blend. However, they have now begun to blend. (Things might have changed recently, but this info was right a few years back: Mobil 1 began to blend a small percentage of high-quality conventional oil w/ synthetics)

Anyway, my question is this, do you know if AMSOIL is fully synthetic? Or, is it a blend?

Thanks!
Old May 29, 2008 | 11:12 AM
  #398  
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Originally Posted by kieljon
Anyway, my question is this, do you know if AMSOIL is fully synthetic? Or, is it a blend?
AMSOIL is fully synthetic.
Old May 29, 2008 | 06:01 PM
  #399  
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Originally Posted by kieljon
About 2 or 3 years ago, Mobil 1 stopped listing "fully synthetic" on many of their products (possibly all of them, but i'm not 100%). Before that time, the Mobil 1 line was definitely all synthetic oil, as opposed to some percentage of a blend. However, they have now begun to blend. (Things might have changed recently, but this info was right a few years back: Mobil 1 began to blend a small percentage of high-quality conventional oil w/ synthetics)

Anyway, my question is this, do you know if AMSOIL is fully synthetic? Or, is it a blend?
As danmaz states, AMSOIL passenger car motor oils are all synthetics, not synthetic blends. The only blend AMSOIL sells is one of the many diesel oils they offer and the name of that product is "15w-40 Synthetic Blend Diesel Oil".

I don't believe Mobil is blending Group II petroleum oils in with their Mobil-1 products. Mobil literature describes their M-1 oils as containing "fully synthetic basestocks". They could (speculation) be blending/using Group III (highly modified petroleum oil) basestocks in their final product, but Group III oils are technically synthetics. Groups IV and V are traditionally considered true synthetics (primarily PAOs and Esters). Oil formulations are proprietary and the companies do a good job keeping their formulations close-hold.

Back to my previous post, the base stocks and additive packages that go into a lubricant can vary greatly in quality, price and performance. Not all synthetic oils are created equal.

Last edited by talkinghorse; May 29, 2008 at 08:20 PM.
Old May 29, 2008 | 06:45 PM
  #400  
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Why is Mobil 1 blending petroleum-based conventional oil with their synthetic? It can't be that much cheaper than synthetic, especially with $135/barrel oil now! Or is it simply an economy-of-scale issue, since synthetic oil is a niche market?



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