goldtooth

iTrader: (56)

I am SLIGHTLY leaking oil somewhere above the oil pan, what could it be/ what should I look at? This is the first synthetic oil I put in ever. Plus I ran two bottles of Auto-RX before putting in the synthetic, any other remedies to stop leakage? Its got 81.5k miles on it.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

01_Maxine, the only question that remains is whether you want to stick with off-the-shelf stuff.

If you do, go with Mobil 1 5w-30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30, and a Napa Gold, Mobil 1, K&N, or Purolator PureOne filter. That will easily permit ~6k mile/6 month change intervals.

If you're willing to order your oil online, get Amsoil ASL or TSO (TSO is better), and an Amsoil EaO13 filter. Either of those oils with that filter will last for at least 12k miles/1 year or more.

Bobo

Is the problem your oil pressure sender? It is located at the back end of the oil pan (closest to the muffler) and is a common problem. I had to replace mine - a cheap quick fix.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

10bits

goldtooth

iTrader: (56)

I will check into it in a bit, but what else is there higher than that, that it could leak from?

Bobo

I am not sure. Typically, 2 AutoRX procedures aren't required unless you have 100k on the clock.

I only did one at 63k, prior to switching to synthetic.

The 2 AutoRX trials should have minimized the potential for any leaks as the product causes the seals to swell.

Hopefully, you don't have a rear main seal problem.

As suggested, check out the oil pressue sender before you get your knickers in a knot.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

And hopefully the AutoRX was applied according to instructions.


Wouldn't that be the front seal (behind the crank pulley)?

blkAEmax82

iTrader: (16)

Doodfood thanks alot for all the help (again) lol ttyl

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

I've been doing ALOT of research into lubrication recently because I suspected my car was burning Oil. After some arduous reading, I've determined that Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 is actually an Excellent(and cheap) oil that's very good for our motors. It still has the low winter rating (5w) which is recommended for our cars in all climates, but it can be thicker when it gets hot to offer more protection. Rotella T synthetic is classified as a commercial oil for use in trucks, however meets all the standard API requirements for our engines. Also, since it is a commercial-grade oil, the additive package is far more robust than most any passenger car oil. Best of all, it's CHEAP. you can get a gallon of the stuff for $16-17 at Wally World. Put one of those top recommended filters on, and you practically have the best of all worlds imo.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Only one caveat: The 5w designation represents a very very wide range of viscosities at low temperatures, and Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 is WAY on the high end of that range. That means the oil will take longer to reach critical components on a cold start. In turn, since 80 to 90 percent of engine wear occurs in the first few moments after each cold start, you might actually get significantly more engine wear with this oil.

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

I don't think it would be any worse for wear than someone who's running 10w30

besides, the more robust additive package should in turn, allow better plating throughout the engine.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

The difference between 5w and 10w is not equivalent to the difference between 30 and 40. Two different scales.

Bobo

Research where the closest Esso bulk plant is across the line in Ontario. Phone them and order a case of Esso XD3 Extra, 0w30, PAO full synthetic and you won't be disappointed.

You could always go and pick it up.

This is a heavier oil at operating temperatures and would lend itself ideally to the colder winters you experience.

I switched to it in February 2006 and run it year round.

This oil is raved about on BITOG and is superior to Mobil 1 at a fraction of the cost.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Well that depends on the 10w-30, but in most cases you're probably right.

kasemodz

iTrader: (1)

Hi I have a 97 maxima gle with 90k miles on it. I got it w/ 70k miles on it 3 yrs back. My oil changes have been everywhere from nissan dealership to jiffy lube. The last oil change was done at jiffy lube. I would like to switch to mobil1 but I'm worried that my engine seal might break. So far I haven't had any engine leaks. There were tranny leaks before, but thats been fixed. The oil currently is dark brown. I don't know how to determine if the engine is eating oil.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

www.auto-rx.com

Buy some of that stuff and follow the instructions to the letter. Then, switch to whatever oil you want.

As for knowing whether your engine is eating oil... Did you not know that's what the marks on the dipstick are for?

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

The Oil turning dark brown is the additive package "activating" and doing it's job in your engine, so there's no need to worry. I WOULD however, start to worry if your oil comes out looking like someone's chewing tobacco spit (bits included) or black and tar-like. It's also HIGHLY recommended you AVOID Jiffy Lube, they are well-known for not really doing the job properly. Switching to synthetic will not break your engine seal, however it may reveal leakage areas if your seals are already having problems.

The best way to determine if you're burning oil is to Monitor your levels, and every once in awhile do the oil change yourself if (like me) you can't do it yourself on a regular basis. You're running the VQ30, so I sincerely doubt you have any, but it's good to keep up on the maintenance and monitoring of your fluid levels.

EDIT: last i heard, the nissan dipsticks, especially on the VQ35, are complete junk and it's difficult to determine the levels. Just do a Drain n' fill and If you're less than 3k and a quart or more down, I'd worry.

kasemodz

iTrader: (1)

Alright, well my car holds about 4.5 quarts, is it required to put 4.5 quarts? I found a movil1 big container of 4 quarts for 23 dollars. Will that be enough?

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

If the manual says your car needs 4.5 quarts, you need 4.5. Buy the 4-quart jug and an extra one-quart bottle.

Bobo

And check the dipstick periodically as you might want to put the other 0.5 quart in the crankcase before the subsequent oil change. It is normal for a VQ engine to use a little oil.

Cisco Kid

Hey guys looking for some quick feedback. My 03 SE is going to dealer today for oil change, I am currently on dyno and there are 51K on the car. To date it has had all regular oil changes every 3500 miles.

I plan to move to Mobil synthetic using 5W30 newer vehicle formula, it was on sale for a good deal. I am wondering if the 4.4 litres (I am in Canada) is enough for a oil and filter change or if I will need more. Is it recommened to do an engine flush when moving to synthetic, as I do not want to return and do another change after 2K miles I feel it is a waste of cash.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

A flush will definitely not be worth it at your mileage. I wouldn't even bother doing an early change after the switch. Just switch.

Make sure you get a Purolator PureOne, Mobil 1, K&N, NAPA Gold/Wix oil filter to make the most of the oil.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

4.4L should be enough, the VQ30 takes 4.5 quarts and I think your VQ35 takes a little more. Why not check your owner's manual to be sure?

Bobo

I take it you bought the oil already.

Check out the Greater Vancouver Meet thread in the Canada Forum. We hope to get together on Sunday, June 24th - time and location to be firmed up still.

If I were you I would return it and phone (604) 420-4331 which is the M.R. Smith, Esso Commercial Card Lot, at 3100 Underhill in Burnaby (Lake City, just off the Lougheed Highway).

See if they have any Esso Extra XD3, 0w30, PAO, full synthetic oil in stock. If not, they will bring it in from Edmonton. This oil is being raved about on BITOG (www.bobistheoilguy.com) and outperforms Mobil 1 on UOAs at considerably less cost.

A lot of the oil filters mentioned aren't readily available in Canada. You can get WIX at NAPA I believe or stick with OEM from the stealership.

Go to BITOG and run a search on Esso XD3.

I have been using it for 16 months and think its great.

A lot of Americans would like to be 10 miles from the aforementioned Esso location. This oil is not available in stores, nor is it available in the United States.

Get with the XD3 program and forget about Mobil 1. You won't be disappointed!

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Wow that oil sounds good. I'm guessing they have a pipeline from Alaska or the Yukon bringing oil down to Edmonton? Otherwise why would an oil company have a refinery way up there.

Bobo

I am not sure where the refineries are. Edmonton must be a major warehouse for Esso.

Edmonton is in Alberta, the most oil-rich area in North America. Northern Alberta is also the home of the much talked about oil sands projects which will be the future for oil production for many years to come.

I don't know if there is any oil production in the Yukon, but there is in northeastern British Columbia.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Didn't know that Alberta had oil. Interesting, thanks. I read a little on Wikipedia and didn't realize how big Edmonton was. It will probably keep growing with all that oil nearby.

mwh

I had the dealer do my dino oil changes on my '06 Max until it had 15k on the odometer

Running on dino I averaged 25.3 MPG

At 15k I changed to Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5/30 and M105 filter and the AVG MPG dropped to 23.3 for the next 5k miles

At 20k I changed oil again (same as above) and just went on a 500 mile trip (loaded) that included heavy traffic and mountain regions with AC on and my AVG MGP is 28.7!

The engine runs smooth with the M1 and the size alone of the M105 filter to the stock does not compare.

Appreciate the advice on which oils and filter to use.

CraigsMax01

iTrader: (8)

this girl is new to me, she is as clean as ever.

i want to start her off on a good foot. i drive ALOT, city and highway.

i want to use quality oil and filters that wild be available anywhere.

i used castrol in my accord, should i go to high mileage and or synthetic?

automatic

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Your best bet is probably Mobil 1 5w-30, with a Mobil 1, K&N, or Purolator PureOne oil filter.

CraigsMax01

iTrader: (8)

syn or reg, high mileage?

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Mobil 1 = synthetic.

pbn85

iTrader: (8)

hey guys I bought the mobil filter m1-105 today along with castrol gtx but my mechanic couldnt fit the filter on. It looked way too big. Luckily when I was in autozone they had the mobil m1-108 so I bought that as well b/c the 105 looked way too big. Im glad I did buy it b/c he couldnt get the 105 to fit. Its weird b/c I have the vq35de as well...whats up with that?

I know the 108 may be sub-par quality but I get oil changed every 2 months as it is so I should be ok

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

If the 105 is the one with the really huge diameter, I'm pretty sure it does fit, at least on 4th gens. The rubber gasket and screw thread are the same as the normal diameter filter.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

The 108 isn't sub-par quality. It's just smaller, so it wouldn't be able to go as long before having to be changed. But since you're using Castrol GTX (good pick, by the way) and not some esoteric $7/quart UberOil, it won't be an issue because you'll be changing your oil around 5k anyway, which is fine for the 108.

The 105 should fit, though. Maybe your mechanic just saw that it was way bigger than what you had and didn't even try? (couldn't blame him...)

pbn85

iTrader: (8)

yea I dont even think he tried....he just saw it and said it wouldnt fit. He didnt even know I had the 108 filter on me, he just saw the size and said its too big. Then I got the 108 filter from the trunk and gave it to him. I'll use it for the next oil change. Im assuming I'll need to add a little bit more oil b/c the 105 filter is really big

Nupemax96

I tried advanced auto and they were $8.88

Nupemax96

Please ignore last comment. didn't notice there was more than one page of convo.

bwinter7

Hi, I just changed the my oil with 0w-40 mobil 1, but it is still quite warm around here (Albany, NY, av. 80 degrees right now) should I change it out for a 5w-40 or 10-40?

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Why would you change to a different winter rating in the summer?