Without doing a lot of research, these two filters or their equivalents from other manufacturers are about it. There's a smaller filter that will fit, and many Nissan applications use this smaller filter, but that's not your goal. Your max is somewhat limited in the size of the filter it can accomodate because if you go with something that is too large in diameter, it gets awful close to the flywheel pully. Also, in keeping with the message from a post above concerning wix or a more pricey M-1 filter, there should really be no need to "up-size" if you are changing oil/filter at traditional intervals...the standard sized filter will work just fine.

I use AMSOIL and don't have any direct experience with the oils you named; but of the two, the Rotella blend will probably outperform the conventional Pennzoil. Rotella is typically associated with heavy-duty applications, so i suspect the additive package will be more robust. Just be sure you don't select too heavy a viscosity (use a 5w-30 or 10w-30) and make sure it also carries a gasoline engine certification (e.g. SL, SM, etc).

 

7,500 intervals is a long time for me. I don't use my car much and that oil would probably sit in there for at least a year. I guess this ok for synthetic? Thanks for the filter sizes.

 

With the new much lower maximum (government imposed) standard for sulfur in gasoline, having oil sit in a vehicle for a year is not as much of a problem -- like it was only a few years ago when there was more sulfur in gasoline.

Why was the sulfur a problem. Because burning a gallon of gasoline produces almost a gallon of water. Most of this water goes out the tail pipe, but some of it condenses on the cylinder walls and runs down into the motor oil. The sulfur ends up in the water and makes very mild sulfuric acid -- which the motor oil is supposed to neutralize. Less sulfur is thus a big improvement and reduces the problem of having motor oil in an engine for an extended period of time.

 

Makes sense, thanks for the info.

 

I'm coming back to this thread, mostly because it seems like the Mobil 1 M1-108 has changed size.

I'd forgotten the recommendation for the M1-110 (and can't recall if the AutoVanceReilly stores had it) and have been using the M1-108 for while now (I just did the 100000 oil change, I think I had to change to the 108 at 70000 or so). I change with Mobil 1 5W-30 every 5000 miles, buying it in the 5qt container. I run 3/4 quart of fresh oil through the engine with the drainplug out to rinse out as much old oil as possible. I know I'm wasting a little oil there, but I like the idea.

I had left an empty box for an M1-108 on my workbench so that I could remember what to get on this trip into the store, and when I got home, I noticed that the old box & new box were different sizes. The new box is a 2 3/4 inch cube, the old was 3 1/8 x 3 1/8 x 3. Since the filters fit snugly in the boxes, it appears that the M1-108 has become smaller. Has anyone else noticed? Have other '108' sized filters shrunk?

Back in the earlier exchange with TalkingHorse, he asked why I wanted the larger filter. My thinking was that more filter area would be more effective than less, all other things being equal. I don't think the new size of the M1-108 will be a problem, but I would like to know more. I used the contact form for Mobil 1 to ask what happened.

I don't have an old/new M1-108 filter available.
Here's a pic of the boxes.

 

One thing for 7th gen owners to be aware of:

The plastic shield that protects the bottom area of the engine where the filter is located is now secured by a plastic strap. When I use a P1 PL-14610 (3.52" high) in lieu of the spec'd. PL-14612 (2.93" high) - that makes securing the strap slightly tricky, as the shield now makes contact with the back of the taller filter.

No biggie - just thought some might appreciate knowing.

 

Didn't exactly question why you wanted to go with a larger filter...I advised against choosing a filter on the basis of its size and ending up with something that's not properly calibrated for your engine.

All other things being equal, a larger filter will have more capacity than a smaller filter will. While maybe not important over traditional oil change intervals a larger filter is better if you extend your drain intervals.

Mobil does recommend the M1-108 for your vehicle, but AMSOIL recommends the larger Ea15K13 filter...the equivalent of the M1-110. And this makes sense since AMSOIL lubricants are typically more robust and capable of longer drain intervals. Since the 108 and 110 share the same internal calibrations, I recommend you use the larger M1-110 providing you have sufficient clearance (which you should).

 

And this is a good point because all the stuff being crammed into engine compartments can limit the clearance for some oil filters. So one has to be mindful of the amount of space they have to work with.

 

I would use the Nissan part 15208-9E000. Does the same job for half the price. The Mobil filters are $11!

 

My '02 Maxima SE has about 180k on it now. I'm due for my oil change (every 3000 mi) and was going to take it in today. Checked the dipstick and noticed just a hint of oil on the end of the stick.

Obviously I'm going to start checking this more often but my question is this:

I've heard from a couple of mechanics that the high mileage oils are just basically thicker viscosity: example, maybe high mileage 10-30 is equal to regular 10-40, they just charge more for the high mileage variety.

My question is this: Should I keep on using standard (Castrol GTX 10-30) or switch to a 10-40? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

 

"High mileage" oil is generally available in all viscosities...the primary difference between "high mileage" formulations and regular oils is that the high mileage oils typically contain seal conditioners and more robust detergent packages. Your oil consumption could be caused by any number of reasons and switching to a 10w-40 may or may not help your problem...it certainly won't eliminate it. Recommend you check it more frequently and keep it topped off between changes...running the engine low on oil is putting much more stress on the oil remaining in the engine and accelerating oil breakdown, deposits and wear.

 

At the start of this entire thread, Bill99GXE took lots of filters apart. While the Nissan filter may indeed do the job, the construction of the Mobil 1 ( and others) is superior, in his opinion.

 

I'm not looking for longer drain intervals; I'm perfectly happy with a 5K cycle.

As far as the 105/108 decision, that was made before the forum knew about the bypass valve settings in the various filters (at least, I don't remember any discussion about that back then.) Your comments make me think that the 110 is equal to the 108 for internal specs (bypass valve pressure settings,) and is larger as well, therefore providing more filter area. If I remember, I'll try out the 110 next time. I do know there will be no clearance issues.

 

I have to disagree on this point.

I thought I'd cut my old Wal-Mart Super Tech filter apart to see if it was as good as I'd hoped.

Super Tech #ST7317


Metal ends on the element, and 48 pleats.


Notice the black Anti-drain back and the blue pressure relief valve.


Perforated steel core.



Filter medium is 43"X 1 5/8"



For the price and quality construction, I will keep buying Super Tech filters. I urge everyone to open up they're old MAXIMA filters, so we can get an idea of how the different brands specifically made for our cars stack up.

 

Just had my oil changed at the local Nissan dealer to Mobil 1. from 1000 miles one I used dealer synthetic oil Valvoline or Total. With the Mobil I can tell the difference, the engine is quite and a lot smother. for now on I am going to use Mobil 1 and just let the dealer change my oil for $15. Wal-Mart has Mobil 1 for $24.99 so for around $40 for an oil change with Nissan filter is not bad. I don't get dirty and I get a free crapy car wash.

 

You let the dealer wash your car? Nasty! Anyways I have some quick reviews on Pennzoil oils.
I used the 5w-30 Platinum series 2-3 times during my ownership. It seemed to do the job well with keeping the engine clean from what I can see through the valvetrain. It did go through 2qts when I measured it by putting the old oil in the bottle doing 5k intervals It was a lot dirtier when I first got it last year in October.

When Ultra was released I bought that in 5w-30 also and it did an amazing job. I went through 1.5qts instead of 2 using this in 5k intervals.

Conventional regular was a bad idea for me. I shoulda just took it back instead of using it.(Grandma bought the wrong one) When it was time to go through the 5k interval change, I was stunned to only fill the 5qt bottle to the 2qt line!

Now, I am trying out the 10w-30 High Mileage. Seems my engine is liking this alot. Not as much valvetrain noises and seems to be cooler than usual. Also seems to cold start better as well. Most of these intervals were done with Nissan Oil Filters. K&N filter was used once. Fram was used once as well.

I like Pennzoil, never tried any other brands, but I trusted it with my Sentra and she never quit even with my daily spirited driving.

I have ordered an oil test kit from blackstone or whatever to test the high mileage oil for everyone. Will have that test after my 5k is up.

 

i have a 1997 gle its about to hit 150XXX..when it comes to oil im a idiot last oil change i went from regular to synthetic...some one told me i should go back to regular...i have no idea wht to do can some one tell me what should be my best combo of oil and filter to use....thanxx

 

Given your relatively high mileage and if your Max has never run with synthetic, you are likely to see an increase in oil consumption. The much slicker synthetic slips past areas in the engine that conventional motor oil would not get past. You should watch carefully to be certain that the oil level does not get too low due to this likely higher oil burn rate.

The presence of synthetic will also tend to loosen deposits in your engine from years of running conventional. These could pose a problem in your engine, and will likely mean that you need to change your oil filter even before you change the motor oil.

If the oil consumption is not too great (something less that 1 qt every 2 K miles or so), you can stick with the synthetic. I suspect you will end up going back to conventional motor oil. Most who have not run synthetic most of the engine's life do when they first try synthetic at your kind of mileage.

If you change your oil ever 3 to 4 K miles, you can use about any oil filter. I push my synthetic changes to 10K miles and use a Napa Gold # 1381 filter. I had been using a Mobil 1 filter, but they dropped the larger filter in favor of a smaller filter, so I swithched to the Gold. I get my used motor oil checked by the lab after each change, and the lab tells me I can go past 10K miles. I tend to think that no oil filter will go that far, so change at 10K miles more for a new filter than for new oil.

Good luck.

 

Just found some lube in my bathroom...OOPS! Wrong kind

 

LOL!!!

 

lololol

 

Hey does anyone have any opinion about the mobile 1 oil advanced economy i have an oil change comming up and i was debating should i use the advanced economy mobile 1 0W-30 or the Extended performance 5W-30

Thanks

 

PO-TAY-TOE, PO-TAH-TOE.

Both are good oils. I just used AFE for a winter OCI - no issues.

 

I did a search and found this thread. Great work and thanks for the contribution, Bill, as well as from the others.

I admit I didn't read every single page besides the first 3, so I want to ask, since the 15208-9E000 oil filters are Made in China now and no longer in Japan (here in Canada at least), has anyone opened that one up? Is it the same quality?

I have a bunch of Made in Japan 9E000 filters left for my VQ35, and have further access to even older Japanese-made ones with the old-school red/white/blue packaging and all the Japanese writing when the part number used to be 15208-31U00 before being superceded!

I'm wary of OE filters now, esp. since the Genuine Honda oil filters sold here in Canada (same size as our 9E000s) are essentially Fram units made by Honeywell, yet they command a premium and also have sh!tty cardboard end caps and less filter media vs. older units.

I use Castrol Syntec European formula 0W30 in winter and Amsoil ASL 5W30 (up to 25K miles) in the summers, though I'm doing Mobil 1 Supersyn 5W30 for this summer. The Nissan dealers here in Ontario, Canada provide Mobil 1 as the synthetic alternative.

 

I'm also kind of sad to see Valvoline isn't that long-lasting as that's my favourite oil, and always believed that "people know use Valvoline," and that it's the "top choice" of ASE mechanics for use in their own cars. Does anyone know if their formulas have improved.

Here in Canada, the dinos that go on sale most often are Quaker State, Pennzoil, and Valvoline (in jugs only though) at WalMart. Castrol GTX doesn't go on sale as often, and when it does, it isn't as big a discount, so maybe GTX is the best.

 

I just accidentally put 5w20 in my 05 maxima. I didn't even realize until I was done. It is, however, penzoil platinum synthetic with a pureOne filter. Will I be ok in a 80-90 degree Pennsylvania summer?

 

You would most likely be OK for a short OCI. Since the VQ is known to shear 30 weight oils - I wouldn't leave the 20 weight in there too long.

 

Hello, I just bought a 2002 se Maxima with 103k miles. Its about to be due for a OC and wanted to change to full synthetic oil. The car runs good and looks like it was well taken care of. Not sure what oil is in it but pretty sure its non synthetic since the last owner said it was done at a dealer. The car has no signs of leak but i have notice that it burns the oil, I have read on this forum that this car tends to do that. I use the car for more city driving than highway.

The reason I want to go full synthetic is that I really want to spoil the car and would like to achieve a 6k OCI. So my questions are:

1. First of all is it a good idea to go full synthetic at this point in the cars life?
2. If so what are the steps to do the change correctly? Should i go straight and just add the synthetic oil or use a treatment like auto rx?
3. Is there going to be issues since the car is burning the oil?
4. The recommendations on this post are a bit old. Was wondering if these still stand or are there better oils and filters out now in 2011?

I would appreciate any help and advice. Ive done oil changes before but im a noob to the synthetic world. Im about 300 miles away for the next OC and I would like to do the OC ASAP. Thanks to all.

 

I think it's okay for you to go synthetic if you want to and have the money (103K shouldn't be an issue), and there is no special steps to change correctly. Just drain and refill with synthetic, no AutoRX needed.

The only thing I would urge you to think about is if the engine is burning a lot of oil, it's really not cost-effective going synthetic because it's going to burn it all up anyways. Unless you choose to fill with synthetic, then add conventional if needed (most synthetics are compatible with conventional oils), that might be a good compromise.

My personal reco is to stick with dino, and if you are having to add a lot of oil due to excessive burning, you could naturally extend your drain interval to 6K since you're putting in fresh oil every week. Do you get my idea? However, if it's little burning, like 1L per 3K (which is considered a normal consumption range), then by all means, go for the synthetic.

 

What do you guys use to cut up the old oil filter? A good old Dremel?

 

Thanks Will,

I went with conventional oil for now to check up on how much really oil its burning. Depending on the results I might go synthetic in the future. Thanks for the info.

By the way, I went with castro gtx oil and nissan oem filter.

 

Oil filter cutters are available from some on-line racing shops...they seem to be popular with small aircraft engine mechanics as well. I have one made by KRC...it will cut a filter open in the matter of seconds without mess or metal shavings. It works similar to a can opener, where the filter canister is pushed up against a cutting wheel, just above the base plate. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KRC-1201R/?rtype=10

There's others available from different sources, but Summit Racing has several models available...some more and some less expensive than the KRC

 

I use this oil filter cutter, but the VQ oil filters are too small (VQ30DE and VQ40DE use the same filter as far as I know).

 

My 2004 VQ burns about 1 quart of oil between oil changes and I have exetended my OCI using Mobil 1 to 10K miles - with a oil test each time I change. (An oil lab test found antifreeze in the oil from my Dodge truck, so believe in getting the oil tested each time.) I bought this car new and now have about 106 K miles on her.

My experience with an engine that burns a lot of oil is that it will burn even more oil when you go to synthetic oil. The synthetic oil is more slippery so it more easily slips past the places where the oil is taken into the combustion chamber. You can expect to almost double your oil comsumption between the same weight conventional motor oil and that same weight synthetic.

GTX is a good choice. I used that oil for my first 2 oil changes when the car was new. Was advised to break in the engine with conventional oil before switching to synthetic.

 

i remember reading somewhere in this thread that wix filters were good, i just used my last one today, has anything changed?

 

Nothing's changed...these filters are still at/near the top of the standard tier filters...quality materials, good construction, reasonably priced. Can be used for 7500 miles or longer.

 

How important is it that I use a Nissan brand filter only in a 4th gen? Because I keep hearing it can cause all sorts of problems if you don't with your timing chain. But no real valid commentary towards it. I used to use stricly OEM filter from the dealer, then for the last 4 oil changes I let the mechanic throw in whatever oil filter he uses. Now, my timing chain is screwed and bye bye 95SE because it doesn't warrant a swap. Coincidence?

 

Yup.....strictly coincidence I would presume....unless the replacement filter was way off or had a hole in it....I would say that your timing chain was on the way out anyway......

 

Hope I'm not beating a dead horse here...

I have a 2011 Max that I bought back in December. I had been taking it to the dealer in which I bought it to get the oil changed, but at $90 a pop, it gets rather expensive very quicky (I drive about 530 miles a week round trip just for work). I was wondering if someone could tell me the best oil to use and filter so I could start doing it myself for a heck of a lot cheaper.

 

Treat your maxima like you do to your wife or GF with my respect to all the previous....At around 10k miles switch to synthetic Amsoil 0w30 (buy from talkinghorse here in the forums or online from amsoil.com)if you live in cold weather or 5w30 if not...that's all..And use Mobil 1 filters .. Change your oil by yourself or go to your mech buddy shop (backyard mechanics) and he would chanrge you 10-20$ for the most..Don't go to the stealerghip...
Hope this helps..