Ok,

I know that via the owners manual, a 2001 Nissan Maxima is supposed to replace brake fluid with DOT4 approved fluid.

I also know that we are supposed to NOT use DOT5, due to synthetics and incompatibilities with seals.

I have heard that people use Motul as a replacement to DOT4 (with positive feedback), but that is a synthetic. This is where my confusion starts.

I want the best fluid without jeopardizing my seals and other rubber parts. I know that mixing and matching is bad also. Is there a way to "flush" the system to make sure the most amount of old stuff is removed?

I am replacing/rebuilding my front brakes in about 2 weeks and would like to hammer out all my "known" kinks before Mr. Murphy shows up and add his own to the mix.

Any clarification/input would be appreciated.

 

Order ATE Super Blue or Super Gold (depending on what color you want) from cdoc.com. They only specify replacement every three years.


I've had good results using ATE brake fluid.

 

Great!

Although 1 DUMB question. I cant seem to see the size of the container on the website...based on your experience how many "containers" would I need to empty the whole brake system, flush and replace. I am going with the blue because its 1 dollar cheaper and the current fluid is yellow/gold.

Heck with Toyota Red as my coolant...Blue as my brake fluid...just need to find a good "white" fluid and my engine will be patrotic!

 

Vavoline dot 3 or 4 synthetic has worked well for me. I'm sure Bill's ATE super blue/gold is better. But the Vavoline is readily available at most auto stores. So that's a plus for me.

 

They are 1 liter containers. Most swear 1 to 1-1/2 will do it, but it takes me two litres or more for some reason.


Because of shipping costs, I usually just order 3. That's what's nice about the ATE fluid, it comes in a metal container, which won't be as likely to absorb outside moisture as most plastic containers. Gives it a longer shelf life.




And pay no attention to Jeff. He's cheap.

 

As always, thanks for your input...Ill be ordering that tonight! I can always do my wifes car too!

 

Motul is 1/2-liter, so I'll need SIX to flush?

How much did you use Colonel?

FSM recommended is a DOT3, but I'm going with Motul 5.1 that's a DOT 5.1 NON-silicone, but says DOT 4 & DOT 3 SAE J 1703 accepted.

Synthetic is better, but we want non-silicone based, right?

 

I second the vote for ATE Super Blue. Haven't been able to cook this stuff on the track yet. Easy to see when everything's been flushed out too.

 

Have not done this part as I cant get my rims to clear the calipers. Its off by like 1 or 2MM. Waiting to get the spacers this week.

 

The more and more I dig, the more I'm leaning away from the overkill/overpriced Motul, however the 5.1 isn't that bad cost wise $6.50ish per 1/2-liter and it's "abs friendly viscosity" has me perplexed.

Any help on the Castrol syn or Blue or other and ABS?

 

Guys...feed me info on the SuperBlue, Castrol, etc..

 

I know many people who run Super Blue in track cars that have ABS, myself included. No issues what so ever. Considering I change my brake fluid 3-4 times a year, I've yet to find a brake fluid other than ATE Super Blue that holds up to the abuse it receives with me for what I can buy it for. You can usually find it for $8.95/liter.

 

Thanks. I'm pretty sure ANY of these are overkill for the street driving I do, but I'm looking for something that LASTS since I don't flush ONCE in maybe 3-4yrs. IF ever. Just concerned about ABS and longlife with somewhat better boil protection.

Anyways, I'm pretty sure I can get the Castrol syn at a local parts store, but where can you find Super Blue?

 

Most performance shops will carry SUper Blue. Just do a google search and you should be able to find a local distributor.

They all are overkill for the street. If you're looking for long life, look at Castrol LMA. I believe it has a higehr wet boiling point than Superblue and should give more consistent performance over the long haul.

 

Moisture and wet boiling point seem to be my main concern with longevity, correct? According to this article, Super blue wet/dry is 392/536 vs. Castrol LMA 311/450:
http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Br...Comparison.htm

Price per oz isn't much different, but estimated BP after 6-months seems important, ie ATE = 464 vs LMA = 381.

I'm going to check this weekend and see what I can find, especially the Valvoline High Performance Synpower, since it seems cheap, probably easy to find, and stacks up well BP wise.

 

I use the Valvoline just because it's decent and is available anywhere at any time. This means I don't have to worry about shelf life. I just get it a day before I need it at the local auto store. Man look at the GUNK specs. Not bad either.

 

Thanks Jeff, I'm leaning strongly that way, since I figure I can at least learn how to bleed, read spill, my brakes with the 'cheap', yet easy to buy more of in a pinch stuff.

I'd be SOL, if I screwed up with something I bought online, because I'm going to change this over Easter and there aint JACK around that would carry Motul or Super Blue for sure.

 

You're right about moisture and wet boiling point being more of a concern for longevity. Considering where you live, it probably doesn't make much of a difference at all in the grand scheme of things though.

 

Okay, now I'm happy. Thanks.

Anyways, if I go with the SAME color fluid I already have in there, how do I know when I've bled out all the old?

 

Trust me Alex, the color WILL be different. Assuming you have not changed in 3 years, the "old" stuff will be more of a darker copper color and the new stuff will be a lighter gold color.

I got the blue because it will be "for sure" that new stuff is coming though. But realistically, I run "more" through than probably necessary as I am **** retentive.

Are you doing this one or two man? What process are you intending to use? I ask before I give a bunch of useless advice.

Its not hard and you really cant muck it up (well, maybe YOU can ). I bleed the brakes once to twice a year on my bike and bleed the bike clutch as well. Cars are MUCH easier.

 

I think your confusion was based around the word "synthetic" vs. "silicone-based". You're not supposed to use DOT5 because it is silicone-based, and does not absorb water like DOT3/4 fluid does. I don't think the "synthetic" part makes a difference here.

I'm not sure about synthetic brake fluids and compatibility with seals... I use Valvoline DOT4 synthetic brake fluid in my car w/ SS brake hoses and never seen a problem. I've used that same stuff in a few older cars ('88 Ford Tempo, '90 Mazda 626) and never had a problem.

 

Yeah, Colonel was confused.

Most DOT5 are silicone based, which can ruin seals and aren't compatible with DOT3/DOT4, however now there are some like Motul 5.1 that are DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5 compatible withOUT silicone.

 

Colonel,

One or two, but I'd prefer one.

I'm on the fence about either going the speedbleeder route or Mity Vac route. I borrowed a Mity Vac, but I'm not sure I have all the parts I'll need. If I like it, I'll buy one, if not, I'll go with speedbleeders.

I'll probably bleed my POS Sentra brakes this weekend, since they've got 150K on the ORIGINAL fluid. If I *** it up, oh well.

 

I have the "Plant Sprayer" method too. Ill be trying that the first time when I do the BBK.

I currently have a brake "sucker" which is ok for 1 person...but seems to take a while.

1) NEVER wipe spilled Brake fluid...rinse with water immediately
2) Remove as much old fluid from the MC res. I "blot" up the stuff I cant get with the turkey baster.
3) Fill up MS Res

Just remember to keep the res full, otherwise you are starting from scratch.

 

Yeah, I remember the ACE hardware plant sprayer contraption. If I had more time, I'd try and make one.

What is the "sucker" method, mity vac?

 

Hmm, its more or less a vaccuum method. You crack the bleeder screw, keep the vaccuum at a constant pressure and it "sucks" the fluid throught the system. Unfortunate part of this procedure is that you HAVE to get an air tight seal on the system or it looks like bubbles are coming through the line.

 

I did the Sentra, yesterday. Man that **** looked like the Dr Pepper from the empty Dr Pepper bottle I used to dump it into.

Yeah, I saw bubbles at first, but they went away. I learned the hardway NOT to leave the bleed screw open, while you pump the MityVac though.

Anyways, I liked the MityVac method, however the pump I borrowed was somewhat broken and a PITA or I could have been done in 30mins. with most of the time being removing/reinstalling the wheels. Luckily, I also borrowed a regular vacuum pump, so I just used it as a vaccum source with the MityVac collector/tubing.

Method I ended up finding worked best:
1)Build up about 20lbs. of vacuum.
2)Crack bleeder screw.
3)Close bleeder at about 5lbs. of vacuum.
4)Repeat until quick flow with no bubbles or until all old fluid is LONG gone.

Only hiccup I had was when I used a syringe to suck the MC dry, I jambed the low brake fluid warning float, so once I had everything done and put back together, I had a nice 'BRAKE' warning light. Just had to remove the MC lid, filter, and use a screw driver to unstick it.

 

Yeah, the MityVac's what I use...

FYI, I made my MityVac brake bleeder reservoir better-sealed for more efficient vacuum application by putting a bead of silicone sealant around the top lid... the vacuum doesn't leak as much. I keep the canister closed at all times, removing it from the vacuum pump to drain it out (kinda clumsy, but oh well, it works )

 

sprillis,

Good idea, that's what I was doing anyways to keep splashing/spilling to a minimum while pouring it into a Dr Pepper bottle.

 

'99 SE Auto ABS Brembo slotted/dimpled rotors, SS brake lines. NEVER had any problems brake pedal is firm and if step on it the brakes dig in real well.

ATE Superblue is great no q's about it. track, autoX, or brooklyn rush hour, they've saved my max many times.

for bleeding brakes - SB1010 speed bleeders all around @ $8 a piece there's noting simpler than bleeding brakes.

 

Glad to see someone else using the speed bleeders. I'll be putting mine on this weekend and flushing the system with Valvoline Synthetic Dot 3 - 4 BF.