NJ Devils Fan

iTrader: (2)

Is mobil 1 worth putting in the car every 3k miles?

† ErV †

synthetic? dyno? syntec blend? long life? which mobil 1

drain at 5k

3k if you really beat on the car.

NJ Devils Fan

iTrader: (2)

Uhh, lol, not sure, one that will prevent wear on the engine.

nismotech

Mobil 1 is used by Porsche and Corvettes straight from the manufacture, If its good enough for them, then its good enough for my Max. Another reason I always use Mobil 1 is, unlike other more performance oriented brand such as Red Line and Amsoil or Royal Purple. I can find Mobil 1 in local Walmart and Coscto. (I use full synthic all the time) Then Change according the the maintence scheduel on the owners manual.

JN1CA31D2YT

Mobil has other oils but Mobil 1 is always synthetic.

MaxSE03

iTrader: (1)

I usually go 3-4k with Mobil 1.

Quicksilver

iTrader: (1)

Mobil 1 0W-40 here. It's good stuff! My engine oil analysis always has good things to say since I've been using this particuar oil...

MaximaPolak

iTrader: (9)

I use 5W-30.....what's the differenct in 0W-40?

Maximadmoiselle

iTrader: (1)

It depends. If you want to switch to synthetic, you have many brands to choose from, Mobil1 or Castrol synthetic, etc. It's usually recommended for high-performance cars, but if you plan on putting 100k+ on yours, you're better off using synthetic from now on. If you put it off until later, be careful because with synthetic you might get oil leaks depending on how you previously took care of the engine. What it does is it cleans up all buildup and varnish and if you have worn seals, you'll be in trouble.

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

0W-40W Damn man you are going to damage your cylinder walls..... I use Mobil 15w-50 already have 73K and also add Lucas oil additive, since I use it the engine feels and sound smoother.

Maximadmoiselle

iTrader: (1)

Viscosity. The first number (0W, 5W, 10W, etc) is your winter rating and the second is your viscosity. So a 40 is thicker than a 30, while a 0W will be good for the winter. And a 0W-40 will be really rare in the US, since it's *designed* for European cars, so they use it on Bimmers and so on.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Jesus, 15W-50 in a 5th gen???? Why?

skandalouz

iTrader: (2)

my friend gets me a case of mobil1 for $20... and he changes the oil and filter for me for free so i've always just used it.... but i've been wondering the same thing also..... would it make a diff if i just used the free oil that he can give me??

LloydBanks

Isn't that backwards? I think the lower numbers are better in warmer weather. For example, I live in the Northeast so I can run 10w-30 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer if I want to.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Wrong, 5w winter, 10w summer. Several 5th gens have tried 40/50 weighted oil and the oil pump could not handle oil this thick.

Luquire

I am thinking about changing from royal purple synthetic 5w-30 to mobil 1. Do i need to run through 2 sets of mobil 1 to change oils or will it been fine to just change the oil once for switching over

Quicksilver

iTrader: (1)

How do you figure? Every time I change my oil, I send a sample of the spent oil to Blackstone Labratories to be tested (this is what they do for a living). Not only do I have well below normal wear on my engine for the mileage it's at, but could use the oil for 8000 miles (at least) before I change it. Right now I change the oil every 4000 miles, but am considering switching to every 5000 miles.

Please, feel free to add something factual and scientific to this conversation if you have anything...

Mr. Peabody

I believe what you are refering to here( 10w - 30) is a "blended" viscosity oil. Each number is a viscosity rating.

It used to be in the olden days you would buy straight viscosity oil such as 10W for the winter (thinner viscosity thus easier for the cold engine to turn over) and then change your oil to 30W or 40W in the summer (thicker viscosity so that the oil would not "thin-out" when running hot in the summer".

The oil companies then started coming out with blended viscosity oils that could be used year round. Growing up in New England I would run 10W-30 in the winter and then 10W-40 in the summer.

The viscosity is an indication of how robust the oil is in that it will still maintain a film on a rotating surface in various degrees of heat.

Mr. P

Maximadmoiselle

iTrader: (1)

Whatever you do, make sure your engine is clean. Use engine flush or something before you switch, otherwise you'll start using oil too early because the new oil starts cleaning up the engine, your filter gets clogged and the dirt gets deposited behind the rings. Too much of a mess. It's good if you at least use the same brand if you get synthetic because of the chemical contents.

NJ Devils Fan

iTrader: (2)

Isn't there a product that you put in your gas tank every x amount of miles? What is that called? Supposedly helps the injection system or something like that.

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

No it's not worth it to use synthetic and chance every 3000 miles. You are just pouring money down the drain.

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

i believe its worth it. I can get mobil 1 super syn at $22 for 6 quarts compared to castrol gtx which is $11 for 5 quarts (the only dino oil I would run if I had to)

draining at 5k intervals with mobil 1 supersyn at roughly 4 quarts each time means that in 20k miles, I use only 16 quarts of oil at roughly $3.65/quart which = $58.40

whereas draining at 3k intervals with castrol gtx at roughly 4 quarts each time means that in 18k miles, I use only 24 quarts of oil at roughly $2.20/quart which = $52.80

with only a $3-10 dollar difference in the long run with better synthetic oil, i think its worth it

oh, and my Blackstone Laboratories oil analysis agree with me also

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

I use 15W-50 on my MR2 Turbo

Quicksilver

iTrader: (1)

Blackstone rules. I basically know what my engine is doing at all times when using them...

hotrod37

What makes you think he will damage his cylinder walls? There is no basis in fact that would indicate using 0-40w will do any cylinder wall damage. If anything in very cold weather it will increse bearing life. and unless you live where it doesn't get cold in the winter I would stay away from 15w-50w and go to 5w-30w or 5w-50w.

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

excuse me Mr but what I'm saying is real.. if you don't like my answer well it is your problem...I was just giving you a free advise. Second I always asked my bro which happened to be a NASA eng, so let me see.....hemmmm Blackstone Sh*** ripping you or NAA....HUMMMMM let me think.......ohh and by the way..... pm me when your engine dies..so I can help you rebuild it....

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

only for better protection on the rims and the engine walls..that's it

03BlkSETE

iTrader: (3)

Where's your evidence? Sorry, asking your bro, even though he is a NASA engineer doesn't qualify. Quicksilver has evidence in the form of a specific oil used on a specific engine and tested by a very well respected company in the business of OIL analysis. So again, please show specific evidence. I'm always willing to learn.

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

you say that blackstone is ripping him off but then in the same sentence you base your argument that your bro is a nasa engineer?

so because he is a nasa engineer he knows everything about cars, oil, engine, etc? If i'm a french chef it doesn't mean i know how to cook chinese food.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

15w50 is much too viscous for a Nissan VQ30's bearing clearances. You don't want your oil to act like 15w when you start up and your don't want your engine's oil pump to have to push a 50w when warm. If the oil is too thick, it won't flow though the inbetween bearing surfaces correctly.

Any Nasa engineer should know this. Or at least know how to follow a Nissan FSN / owner's manual

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Jeez...many of you REALLY need to do some over in our Fluids/Lubricants forum.

Move HAI~!

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Hey...shut the *** up and get back over to TS.

BTW, that post was funny.

Quicksilver

iTrader: (1)

I'm really enjoying this new breed of Maxima owner that continually plagues our great forum

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

I don't and I think the newb species is about to become extinct.

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

i'll go back when they actually call me.

Quicksilver

iTrader: (1)

Have your brother PM me about his $75K a year job (working 80+ hours a week) and let me know how he likes it. Meanwhile, I'll just stick to making whatever I want/need with my own company whilst working 30 hours a week. Also, getting a job at NASA isn't hard. And just b/c your brother is smart doesn't mean it's genetic (which is blantly obvious from this pathetic attempt of a post)...so how about you PM me when you reach puberty and move out of your parents house. That way we might have more than one thing in common (the Maxima being the one thing).


Back to the real subject (engine oil)...

If you folks don't feel comfortable running 0w40 Mobil 1, then just stick to Mobil 1 5w30. It's not quite as good an oil, but it's still much more than most of the other crap out there. There are exceptions (Amsoil, Redline, etc)...but those are usually more expensive, and the end doesn't justify the total price paid IMHO. If you were running race engines or some serious turbo setups, then I would stick with the expensive stuff only (for your components sakes).

{-_-}

iTrader: (2)

i heard of people using 15w oils when they are really pushing their engines HARD. maybe that's what the original poster was doing, who knows.

quicksilver, do you have any comments on me running 10w-30 for oil in the northeast? the temperatures should be okay as we hardly get down to under 0 degrees. btw, my car is 105k+ if that helps you.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

the 15w refers to the cold viscosity rating of the oil from the time you start the engine to when it warms up. So you shouldn't be running your engine hard at that time anyway

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

All the newer members except for maybe Maximadmoiselle REALLY need to stop commenting and start reading all the stickies/threads in this section. I can't believe there is THIS much misinformation being posted when it's all right in this section alone.

You guys will learn alot, trust me. I still do

Triple8Sol

iTrader: (29)

5w30 Amsoil for me