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Automatic Transmission issues and fluid capacity

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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 09:28 PM
  #1  
colinc's Avatar
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Automatic Transmission issues and fluid capacity

I have noticed that my transmission in my '96 is not as responsive as it was when the car was younger. It takes more throttle input to get it to downshift, and it likes to stay in fourth gear (FYI, my knock sensor is dead, but I don't know if that matters). The shifts themselves are fine, not harsh or abrupt. Anyway, I was going to try to change out the filter and the fluid, but the owner's manual does not specify a capacity for ATF. Also, it says to use Nissan fluid, but does not give an equivalent (i.e. Dexron II, III, etc.). Is the Nissan fluid the safest fluid to use? Thanks.
Old Aug 4, 2004 | 09:46 PM
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How many miles are on your car? Have you routinely changed the fluid & fiter screen (or had it done)?

I think the total capacity is in the neighborhood of 12 quarts, including the torque converter. When you drain the trans pan, you're not draining all of the fluid, only about half of it, 6 to 7 quarts. Usually I can fill one and a half milk jugs with old ATF to go to the recycling center in town.

I use nonsynthetic Dextron III/Mercon ATF, usually Esso (Exxon/Mobil) brand. Many guys contend that synthetic ATF and engine oils are superior...I think that if you change them with standard petroleum fluid on a regular basis, you shouldn't have a problem. I've got 190,000 miles on my '96 and it's never seen a drop of synthetic anything...but if you feel more secure with synthetics, go for it.

I'd definetly get the knock sensor changed ASAP. It's not too hard to do, check out the instructions at www.motorvate.ca. I did it myself last summer and it wasn't hard with the right tools. It could definetly be contributing to the issue, because the car may be running on preset values in the ECU which are 'fail safes' and cause you to lose performance and efficiency in exchange for protecting engine longevity.

Good luck!
Old Aug 5, 2004 | 04:29 AM
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I think the actual capacity is 10 quarts, but get a case of 12 to do a complete change.
Old Aug 5, 2004 | 12:49 PM
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Thanks for the replies. The Max has 118k on it, and since I've owned it (at 75k miles) I've changed the fluid every year. The filter has not been changed to my knowledge. When I get the new filter in, I'll put 6 quarts in and see where it is on the dipstick, then go from there.

Thanks,
colin
Old Aug 5, 2004 | 01:12 PM
  #5  
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Sorry to ***** the thread...

Originally Posted by MaxKlinger
How many miles are on your car? Have you routinely changed the fluid & fiter screen (or had it done)?

I think the total capacity is in the neighborhood of 12 quarts, including the torque converter. When you drain the trans pan, you're not draining all of the fluid, only about half of it, 6 to 7 quarts. Usually I can fill one and a half milk jugs with old ATF to go to the recycling center in town.

I use nonsynthetic Dextron III/Mercon ATF, usually Esso (Exxon/Mobil) brand. Many guys contend that synthetic ATF and engine oils are superior...I think that if you change them with standard petroleum fluid on a regular basis, you shouldn't have a problem. I've got 190,000 miles on my '96 and it's never seen a drop of synthetic anything...but if you feel more secure with synthetics, go for it.
I'm going to install the Hayden tranny cooler on my Auto '98 SE this weekend. I'm at about 96k miles at the moment, and have my next major service/inspection coming up in October... Reckon it's worth just topping up the fluid until then or do you think it's worth me changing the fluid entirely?

Cheers, and sorry for whoring on your thread ColinC

Keir
Old Aug 5, 2004 | 03:22 PM
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If you do it on a regular basis (20k miles or so) just a drain and fill will keep your fluid in good shape.
Old Aug 21, 2004 | 10:55 PM
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From: NM
Originally Posted by MaxKlinger
How many miles are on your car? Have you routinely changed the fluid & fiter screen (or had it done)?

I'd definetly get the knock sensor changed ASAP. It's not too hard to do, check out the instructions at www.motorvate.ca. I did it myself last summer and it wasn't hard with the right tools. It could definetly be contributing to the issue, because the car may be running on preset values in the ECU which are 'fail safes' and cause you to lose performance and efficiency in exchange for protecting engine longevity.

Good luck!
Thanks for the link, since it's been very useful website especially I had a heck of a time trying to find the radiator drain plug.
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