bert

Did my best to find other posts on this subject, including the useless-as-tlts-on-a-bull Owner's manual, so here goes.

How much brake fluid is required to do a 4 corner drain, re-fill and bleed? I think I boiled the fluid, so it's time to go!

How much time should a 4 corner drain, re-fill and bleed take?

Is the Ford Heavy Duty stuff still the way to go or is there some other latest-and-greatest out there. (If you have part numbers it would be great.) I want a fluid that is more resistant to heat than has resistance to absorbing humidity.

TIA

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

i have done mine twice. i got the large size bottle, and there is still some left. takes about an hour, if you have someone to help you pump. or you can get those speed bleeders.

brands: i am not sure of. i used valvoline

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

i use the synthetic valvoline one...

NYC TAR

iTrader: (2)

Do any one know the bleeding order for 5th gen Max?

ATE brake fluid is the best out their (low absorbing water, hi wet boil temp, great pedal feel) and it not that expensive the only problem is getting it (mostly on- line order, if you can find at local shop.

http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
http://www.247-parts.com/leyline/ate_super_blue.shtml

bert

NYC, most of the places I have seen said to bleed from the furthest from MC to the closest.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

you just need to keep adding to the cylinder when pumping, until the fresh fluid stars spitting out. yes bleed the rears first

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

If you have to do this the manual way then with two people:

Make sure the resovoir is filled to the rim and open.
One person in the car at all times.
Other person start with the right rear, open the valve with a 10mm line or box end wrench.
With latex gloves on put one finger over the orifice to keep air from going back in. Basically using your finger as a shrader valve. This can get messy but it's quick and effective. Make sure you have an oil drain handy.
Person in car can pump the brake pedal as many as 38 times safely before sucking air in the resovoir however I recommend doing no more than 30 before a refill.
Continue on each new wheel untill the system is flushed (Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front) and make sure to not let ANY air into the system and sufficiently re-torque the bleed valves (and do NOT oper torque either)


We sell the ATE Super Blue where I work, it's great stuff (I even like the smell of it). It isn't terribly expensive but it's too expensive to waste. I would recommend actually doing the entire flush with the cheap stuff first (Castrol, Valvoline, etc.), and DON'T stop untill it comes out clear. Then flush again just enough to run the ATE Super Blue through.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I've used a vacuum pump with brake bleeder kit (available at Autozone for $25, Sears for more $$, etc.)... IMHO this is the only real "one man bleeder" besides speed bleeders or a machine that goes on the master cylinder reservoir.

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

I bought a 1-man bleeder kit from NAPA and it worked like a charm.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

^^^how much??????????

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

Less than $10. Its a bleeder hose with a 1-way valve attached to it. It worked surprisingly well for the price.

haysdb

So the 1-man bleeder kit is kinda like a Speed Bleeder that you just move around and use at each corner?

As for using ones finger as a Schroeder valve, wouldn't it be easier/better to connect a hose to the bleeder and run it into a jar? No air could be sucked back in, only used brake fluid, but as long as new fluid is constantly being pumped out, this wouldn't be a problem.

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

The one-man kit is a hose w/ a one-way valve at the end that you connect to the bleeder screw and submerse into a jar of brake fluid.

haysdb

OK, so it doesn't imply or require any sort of pump? It's simply an "extra pair of hands" that eliminates the need to manually open and close the check valve each time the brake is "applied"? That's exactly what I'm looking for, I think.

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

Yes, that's what it is. It is a one-way valve: brake fluid can travel from the caliper through the tube into the jar w/ brake fluid in it, but not the other way.

haysdb

For some reason, probably just a thick skull, I don't fully understand the theory and operation of the one-man brake bleeder kits.

I picked up a "One-man brake bleeder kit" (by OEM Industrial) from Auto Zone, but it appears to be slightly different animal than the one sold at NAPA. The one I have does not have a check valve, just a "tapered adapter" that's inserted INTO the bleeder screw, with a transparent hose leading to a tiny little bottle with a magnet. The instructions say to secure the bottle somewhere (like a fender) above the level of the caliper.

• I assume the bottle is small so that it has about the same volume as the master cylinder fluid reservoir. I.e. each time used brake fluid must be dumped, fresh brake fluid must be added.
• The bottle acts as a sort of "check valve" since, so long as there is a bit of brake fluid in the bottle, no air can be sucked into the hose.
• I'm not precisely clear why the bottle needs to be positioned above the level of the caliper except that air in the hose would move upward toward the disposal bottle and therefore not be sucked back into the system. Is this why?
• The instructions do not mention it, but I assume the little disposal bottle should always have a bit of brake fluid in it. If it were to be completely emptied, then air could get back into the system.

Does the NAPA version look anything like this?

This doodad is $17.06 from here

This kit appears to be composed of just two items, a hose which is (apparently) connected OVER the bleeder valve, and a check valve. I do not understand why one end of the check valve is threaded.

haysdb

The small size of the catch bottle looks like it will be a bit of a pain. I'd rather have a larger bottle that I didn't have to empty as often. Is it that hard to remember to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped off?

The little "tapered adapter" that "plugs in" to the bleeder screw doesn't look all that confidence inspiring. It looks like it could pop out, which would result in brake fluid being spewed all over the inside of the fender and all over the floor. Perhaps it's more secure than a piece of tubing placed OVER the bleed screw, but it doesn't look like it would be.