Alright, I would like to know why you guys use 10w-30? The owners manual clearly states 5w-30 is the oil to use for our maximas....but some of us use 10w-30 instead....why is that?

The reason why I use 10w-30 is becuz a local friend of mine slangs me Mobil1 for cheaps...and usually he runs out of 5w-30 in his inventory quick....so I buy 10w-30 (case of 6qts for $10).....

I doubt this will harm the engine....becuz in the owners manual it also has this temperature chart showing that 5w-30 is only needed if your below 0 degrees F or -18 degrees C......which we all know that it never gets that cold in most parts of America....but i am just curious why u guys run 10w-30....my reason is becuz I get mobil1 for real cheap, and most of the time he only carries 10w-30....

please reply with the reason why you run 10w-30....

 

Steven88,

The Mobil 1 10w-30 is a better oil than their 5w-30. It contains no viscosity improvers and is more shear stable. Since Mobil 1 is a thin 30 weight versus Amsoil and Redline. To fortify the M1 10w-30, a quart or 2 of their 15w-50 with its better additive package is feasible. Mobil 1 is the only oil that I would consider mixing since its formulas are very similar versus other companies.

 

I run 10W-30 for the summer and switch to 5W-30 for the winter...it makes me feel alittle better when I need to start my car on those 5 degree mornings

-matt

 

matty,

I would like to know why you run 10w-30 in the summer? How hot does it usually get in NJ during summer?

We all know that the first # on the oil viscosity rating is for winter....and that the second # is for how thick it gets once its warmed up.....correct me if i am wrong..

What i'm tryin to say is...how come you run 10w-30 in the summer when 5w-30 is the same 30 weight as the 10w-30? The 2nd # is the important one to look at if your climate doesn't reach like -18 degrees F....if you live in severe weather like that, then 5W weight is the best to run.....But since you just mentioned that you warm up the car in 5 degree F weather, then why not just run 5w-30 all year around since the 30 rating is the same for both?

I am just curious why owners run this weight...it clearly says 5w-30 in owners manual.....well my reason i run 10w-30 is becuz my friend slangs me 6quarts of mobil1 for 10 bucks....so thats why I run 10w-30...what about u guys?

 

The thicker viscosity also adds protection to rubbing engine parts. My car is "high mileage" with 80,000 plus, and I wanted a bit thicker viscosity to (hopefully) add protection against wear. I use Mobil-1 10W30.

 

The M1 10w-30 is not any thicker than the 5w-30. The M1 10w-30 contains no viscosity improvers like the 5w-30. If you are interested in thickening the 10w-30 and strengthen the additive package, add a quart of M1 15w-50. It contains no viscosity improvers and has more zinc (ZDDP) anti wear additive than the 30 weights.

 

Isn't it true that the 10w-30 is not any thicker than the 5w-30 ONLY on the 30 rating? Winter rating makes them different, one being 5w and other being 10w.....right? So only during the winter is one oil thicker than the other.....yes or no?

 

my mechanic says that cars above 90k miles should use 10w-30, so thats what i use

 

What about low mileage vehicles? Is it recommended to use 0w-30 or 5w-30? And if so why?

 

he said that vehicles under 90k should use 5w-30. this is what my mechanic told me, dont know if its true or not.

 

Can anybody jump in and clarify this?

 

On the box of Mobile 1 oils I saw the other day. The 5W-30 box said for low mileage cars.

 

jumping in on this thread late. there seems to be no real solution as to what to use, only that some frun 10w-30 and some run 5w-30 and neither have had problems so it could be said that its fine to use either.

is there any truth to runinning 52-30 on lower milage cars?

I run 10w-30, and I use that cause that is what I read here when I first joined, and dont have a manual to consult. We all tend to follow the manual pretty closely so why 10w-30? for me I dont know thats what I read on here.

 

so it seems as the majority of people run 5w-30 becuz it says its for lower mileage vehicle....and 10w-30 to those with high mileage........

 

if thats the case then I should switch my GF oil back to 5w-30.

 

As engines wear, the clearances between moving parts become a little bigger. The theory behind using a thicker oil on a higher mileage engine is that a thicker oil will remain suspended in those slighly larger clearances than a thinner, lighter weight oil.

As for someone who asked, temperatres in NJ vary by region but seasonally it's not unrealistic to see temeratures as low as -5F and as high as 105F. It was -6F overnight for about a week straight two weeks back.

You can find some interesting information here:
http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm

 

Does everyone know that W means WINTER!!!

switching to 10W-30 from 5W-30 in the summer is pointless. it is still 30! which is the end of the range needed for warm weather (meaning no difference bwtween the 2 in the summer). If you want a smaller range (because it doesn't get as cold in the winter) sure use 10W-30, but the engine was still designed with 5W-30 in mind.

 

My Maxima manual shows that 10w-30 or 5w-30 is acceptable, depending on temps. It never, ever gets anywhere near zero degrees here, so I just run M1 10w-30 year round.

 

Thats the exact chart I was looking at when I made the decision to switch over to 5W-30 for the winters...the coldest morning so far this winter has been 2 degrees..thats close enough to 0 for me

-matt

 

even with the chart I just somehow know people will not understand that: 10W-30 is no better (performs the same) in the summer. And the only difference is that 5W-30 provides more protection/temp range in the winter.

So if you use 5W-30 b/c of winters, why bother changing?

All I can see is if it is cheaper and you are at your interval anyway. Otherwise it is a waste to switch. Stick with just one. Especially if going Syn w/ longer intervals.

Sorry, this just perplexes me

 

Well I dont do long intervals...

-matt

 

HEY JHONNY2kGLE, I have been working on cars for 33 YEARS!, when i read your comments about your "expertise" in engine oil, especially about the "viscosity improvers", I pissed my pants! I say we make a vote here in the forums that you never post again unless your sure you know what ur talking about. I have been working on Nissans for 23 years, ASE certified, know ALL about mobil 1 oils, and also know that you are very gullible because the individual who told you that is cut from life! sell your car! NOW!

 

NISMOMAX80, yes why bother changing, no big differnce in 5/10-30, but if your using 5-30 synthetic in winter, and than use 5-30 synthetic for summer, i can gurantee your Nissan will start leaking oil, within the next 7 years. and if you reply that it doesnt ur lieing. ^^---------- which also means for anyone else reading this, if your car has a oil leak, no matter how small, and you are using normal industrial oil, don't listen to what your local automotive store has to say about how godly syn oil is, its gonna leak out like a 2 week old puppy, and you can say bye bye to your maxinator if u drive more than 3 miles with ur "dumb-light" oil light/guage flashing!

 

Steven, you live in Ca. I wouldn't worry about 0w or 5w. Castrol GTX dino 10w30 is just fine for all year use (as Ben just mentioned)

Notes:

Whether it's a dino or synthetic a 5w,10w,30 or 40 is all rated using the same viscosity measurement. But synthetics will flow significantly better at VERY low temps and hold up better at very high temps.

 

The M1 10w-30 is not any thicker than the 5w-30. The M1 10w-30 contains no viscosity improvers like the 5w-30. If you are interested in thickening the 10w-30 and strengthen the additive package, add a quart of M1 15w-50. It contains no viscosity improvers and has more zinc (ZDDP) anti wear additive than the 30 weights.

ROFL ROFL ROFL!!!!!!! IF your interested in thickening the Mobil1 10-30w, YOU DONT BUY IT!!! You buy Mobil 0-20w which is recommended for all newer fords and hondas that require 5-20w synthetic, they require it for a reason, hence two BIG automotive comp.! The best option is to substitue one of the quarts of oil that go into your car with "Lucas Oil Stabalizer", and watch the maxinator go over 250k EASY! ALL that BS every motor oil company is using, the "75k high mileage protection" "specialty oil"--- they use a couple of drops of the "Lucas Oil Stabalizer" and are asking there consumers to pay them $4.59/$4.99 a quart! EVERYONE TAKE NOTES

 

So if you get a leak, you fix it. I have a leak and I'm actually glad it's leaking. Now, I get to fix something that was bound to leak with regular oil anyway. I have a lot of miles on my car and I'll keep on top of checking the oil until the spring comes.

Back to the topic:

I've been seeing -15F here in MA on occasion this winter and it rarely gets really hot here so there's no need for me to go with 10W30 oil.

 

Corvettes come straight from factory with Mobil 1 because they want every vette enthusiast to know chevy is using the best of materials to build a car that can pull good numbers (hp, torque, 1/4mile)!

Thus the only reason to buy Mobil 1 - you got money to spend

 

sure you get a leak you fix it, than farther down the road u get another leak, and you realize its bigger, YOU fix it, than farther down the road the leak has took a sh*t on your driveway and realize the leak is to big and sell your car to Jhonny2kgle

 

Now it comes out..................


What's the finger for? Don't know how to express yourself like a knowledgeable man? Thanks for showing everyone that we shouldn't listen to your dumba$$. ASE certified means shyte around here dude.

More ASE certified techs give more answers to issues that I care to talk about here.

 

You DO know that made absolutely no sense whatsoever.

 

Don't ban him until we make a complete fool of the ASE Certified A-hole.

 

Yes you are right, ASE means sh*t in here. It is used ALL AROUND THE WORLD to show the high ranked automotive mechanics apart from all the morons. Like i said it doesnt mean sh*t here, because all the posts i have read within the past 3 months of this site proves every1 should sell their car and find a new hobby.

 

Any high school drop out can go to a community college and get their ase certs. Big deal.

ASE must mean "don't know shat" because the dipshat that tried to work on my VE30DE VTC assemblies screwed up. And this "moron garage DIYer" had to fix his monkey mistakes.

 

and administrator, that made no sense??? goodluck finding a new oil drain plug big enough for the new hole you made with your tap! o wait, ur probably good with cars because your the "administrator", and make good money, and buy a new oil pan.

 

Tap? I fixed the monkey ASE Nissan mistakes before I was and admin

 

you must of NEVER TOOK A ASE test, because its REALLY HARD, your mechanic must be a pothead or a crackhead, or even both.

AND DONT FORGET, OMG OMG wahhhhh

I love how all the wanna be smart mechanic have ase patches on there work shirts, ask for the certificate????

 

More of you ASE ****wads screw more people over than anyone. Like the guy in the 4th gen forum that didn't know any better to do his easy brake job himself but let his father take the car to the shop to an ASE Certified Tech. The ASE Certified idiot charged them $650 to do a brake job. Looks to me that no matter how many certs you guys hold, you guys are crooks and don't know shiet. I know you don't know more about Maxima than I do.

 

the only really hard around here is trying to understand your nonsense posts.

My mechanic?? It wasn't MY mechanic. It was the NISSAN ASE CERTIFIED mechanic that screwed up.

I don't have ASE crap on my "work shirt". Why degrade myself?

 

Tap? I fixed the monkey ASE Nissan mistakes before I was and admin ........


talk about not making sense, and your a admin

im too old to play with little children, go back to school, or should i ask you questions about cars that will take you a couple days to find a mechanic with REAL ASE CERTIFICATION to answer it for you

 

That test ain't hard if guys like you are passing them.