http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=449

I think *IF* this would fit our cars or someone could make something similar that it would be beneficial NA, but especially for the FI guys.

Agree/disagree? Why?

 

I emailed them a while back asking if it would fit the 02-03 Max. They replied back saying it would, but they wouldn't recommend it because of reduced ground clearance.

 

Okay, now to find out if it will fit the 95-01 oil pans or if they are the same.

I'd have to say 350Zs have less clearance?

 

Per JRNissan website,

2000-2003 lower oil pans are the same
1995-2001 upper oil pans are the same

 

If dropped, yes. But stock or near stock, seems like a copout to me.

 

I don't really trust their answer in all respects. I shot them another email. According to that JRNissan site the part numbers are different between the 350Z and the Max.

 

Sounds like it's time to give DaveB a call...

 

The part numbers are probably different, since the drain plug is located in a different spot for the transverse vs. longitudinal mounted engines.

I don't think that makes a difference on the spacer/pan interface though.

 

Also, there are 350Z aftermarket companies like APS selling a baffled larger capacity oil pan for TT owners especially autoXers.

However, some people have suggested the same could be made for much cheaper using the $100 JWT spacer and welding a few similar baffles into a stock pan, if possible.

Something like this:

 

our oil pan hangs considerably low already for dropped vehicles, i'd be worried about protecting it ... especially going over speed bumps and such.

The APS one is more appealing because it goes outwards to gain the extra oil capacity instead of using a spacer

 

Yeah, but the price is HUGE and I'm not sure you can but it alone, ie without their TT kit. I agree the design is better.

 

I saw this and was wondering about it, too. I just dropped 1.6 inches in the front and would worry about the spacer exposing the pan. I relocated the oil filter away from the engine block. I added a K&N HP-3001 filter which is literally three times the size of OEM. It added a little less than a quart of oil to the system. I would suspect that it also improved oil cooling as the oil runs through about five feet of hosing back and forth to the filter. The relocated the filter into the space vacated by the OEM air box after installing CAI. Changing the oil filter is now so much easier.

 

Any idea how huge? The APS site says nothing about prices. I'm ready to start calling dealers, but better to have some info in hand up front. . . Thanks in advance if you have the info.

 

Another interesting piece for our cars...signing in

 

$400............

 

$400 for an oil pan

 

If I had a FI RWD VQ35, I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

Aluminum fins, internal baffling, and oil drainback holes besides the 1.25qt added capacity.

 

Several things about the spacer.

-We've already covered that it reduces ground clearance.
-It adds weight and its only benifit is adding oil capacity which also adds weight. A cooling system adds weight but it does two benificial things at once. It cools the oil and it adds capacity. Something similar to Gary's setup except with a cooler.
-It adds more seems which means more areas for oil to leak.

I don't see the drainback hole as a benifit for SC people. The VQ30 has two perfect drainback places; each black cover on the timing chain cover. Turbo guys have less options and this is a possible route. The baffle thing also doesn't seem to be an issue for VQ30's. I don't know how the 35's oil pan is laid out but the 30's sump is so deep I can't imagine any situation in which it would be starved.

Edit: Actually I've been thinking. As long as the pan is in the same position, even in the Z/G baffles aren't very neccessary. The most G loading is created under braking and that would only drive the oil more foward and thus down toward the sump. In acceleration there would need to be an extremely substaintial G load to force the oil up that 3-4" wall and toward the rear of the engine. I think the most important area for a baffle would be at the top of that wall(On the upper oil pan) to prevent sloshing up there.

 

The relocated oil filter has a few negatives.

First, it is intercepting the oil between the pump and engine, correct? If so, then it delays the oil speed to critical areas during startup, when the worst wear occurs. Second, the added volume of oil must push/travel longer distances, which decreases the pumps output and lowers pressure, so overall cooling could be affected.

The spacer or APS pan allows the benefits without changing the delivery volume or pressure or adding even more vulnerable leaking/bursting points when you add several feet of lines and clamps. JWT apparently doesn't consider the baffling necessary, so I'd agree APS is probably just trying to hype their product.

Yeah, the drain back holes aren't probably a biggie, however for where I intend to mount a turbo, it will require a low point to return oil via a scavenge pump. The shorter the lines and the less holes I have to drill in the lower or upper pan, the better.

 

Good point on the pressure/startup/cooling issue. I hadn't thought of that.

 

I did allot of reading before doing the oil filter relocation because of those same fears. I could not find anyone or any articles that told of any such problems. The intercepting is at the OEM filter location. These types of filter relocation kits are made by Greddy, HKS and dozens of others. They are extremely popular on track/race car set ups where oil temp/pressure/flow are life and death to an engine. The only precaution I have seen mentioned is in extreme cold weather then they advise adding a cover to the relocated filter to maintain the heat. As for leaks, I used a 1/2 inch, 500 psi hose and don't worry about it. I will check it like all the other hoses as the vehicle ages. I use only a K&N HP-3001 filters due to it's high flow rate and anti-drainback valve that is supposed to eliminates dry starts as it prevents oil from draining back into crankcase during engine shutdown....so, they say. Maybe someday I will get around to installing oil temp and oil pressure gauges. Let me know if anyone has read/heard/seen any problems with a filter relocation.

 

FYI,

I just changed my oil and vacuumed the remaing oil from the bottom of the pan. I used the VQ30 (15208-9E000) filter and the thing took an entire 5 quarts of redline 5w-30. It usually takes about 4.5 quarts if I don't scavenge the oil pan.