Redline MT-90 Fluid - Does it REALLY work?
#1
Redline MT-90 Fluid - Does it REALLY work?
Does this stuff really work? How often is it recommended that I change it? I'm not sure how **** the previous owner was when it comes to this.
How many quarts do I need to change my manual transmission fluid, anyways? Is it an involved process. Thanks!
BTW, looked at the FAQ's and the link: http://www.max-world.org/writeups/5t...rannymt90.html is dead.....
How many quarts do I need to change my manual transmission fluid, anyways? Is it an involved process. Thanks!
BTW, looked at the FAQ's and the link: http://www.max-world.org/writeups/5t...rannymt90.html is dead.....
#2
Your question on the volume required was answered yesterday or the day before.
According to the Haynes manual, the transaxle takes 9.25 to 10.125 pints (4.5 to 4.8 litres). I believe the LSD takes slightly less than the non-LSD.
I recently had mine changed at a Mr. Lube for Cdn$29.99 plus tax - Quaker State GL4 75W-90. I was looking for Redline at a local racing store and couldn't find any in GL4. Availability of US made products like this sucks in British Columbia.
The Haynes manual suggests replacing transaxle fluid every 30,000 miles which is what they told me when I had mine changed, although Nissan is silent on this. The owners manual states periodic inspections and replace when needed whenever that is. I couldn't be bothered using synthetic in the transaxle. Just replace it more often.
According to the Haynes manual, the transaxle takes 9.25 to 10.125 pints (4.5 to 4.8 litres). I believe the LSD takes slightly less than the non-LSD.
I recently had mine changed at a Mr. Lube for Cdn$29.99 plus tax - Quaker State GL4 75W-90. I was looking for Redline at a local racing store and couldn't find any in GL4. Availability of US made products like this sucks in British Columbia.
The Haynes manual suggests replacing transaxle fluid every 30,000 miles which is what they told me when I had mine changed, although Nissan is silent on this. The owners manual states periodic inspections and replace when needed whenever that is. I couldn't be bothered using synthetic in the transaxle. Just replace it more often.
#3
Originally Posted by rmurdoch
Your question on the volume required was answered yesterday or the day before.
According to the Haynes manual, the transaxle takes 9.25 to 10.125 pints (4.5 to 4.8 litres). I believe the LSD takes slightly less than the non-LSD.
I recently had mine changed at a Mr. Lube for Cdn$29.99 plus tax - Quaker State GL4 75W-90. I was looking for Redline at a local racing store and couldn't find any in GL4. Availability of US made products like this sucks in British Columbia.
The Haynes manual suggests replacing transaxle fluid every 30,000 miles which is what they told me when I had mine changed, although Nissan is silent on this. The owners manual states periodic inspections and replace when needed whenever that is. I couldn't be bothered using synthetic in the transaxle. Just replace it more often.
According to the Haynes manual, the transaxle takes 9.25 to 10.125 pints (4.5 to 4.8 litres). I believe the LSD takes slightly less than the non-LSD.
I recently had mine changed at a Mr. Lube for Cdn$29.99 plus tax - Quaker State GL4 75W-90. I was looking for Redline at a local racing store and couldn't find any in GL4. Availability of US made products like this sucks in British Columbia.
The Haynes manual suggests replacing transaxle fluid every 30,000 miles which is what they told me when I had mine changed, although Nissan is silent on this. The owners manual states periodic inspections and replace when needed whenever that is. I couldn't be bothered using synthetic in the transaxle. Just replace it more often.
#4
I'm sure others will rave about Redline, Amsoil and whatever. Its up to you. Whatever you do, specify GL4 NOT GL5 for the reasons stated repeatedly in the Fluids & Lubricants forum. If you elect not to go with synthetic, its easier just to take it to a Jiffy Lube or whatever they have in your neck of the woods. The cost differential relative to buying the gear oil and doing it yourself is peanuts and they can dispose of the old gear oil.
I often wonder what all the backyard mechanics do with their used fluids, eg. radiator, oil, transmission, power steering, brakes, clutch etc. I don't do any of this work myself and wouldn't have a clue how to properly dispose of it.
Consequently, I wonder how much of it is being properly disposed of. I doubt its all going to a recycling plant.
Excuse the rant!
I often wonder what all the backyard mechanics do with their used fluids, eg. radiator, oil, transmission, power steering, brakes, clutch etc. I don't do any of this work myself and wouldn't have a clue how to properly dispose of it.
Consequently, I wonder how much of it is being properly disposed of. I doubt its all going to a recycling plant.
Excuse the rant!
#5
I changed my fluid tonight. I picked-up Redline at a local race store. Buy 5 quarts. I could get 4 quarts of MT 90 or 4 quarts of MTL and one of the other. I got 4 of the MTL and 1 MT 90. MTL is a little lighter and much redder, for whatever that's worth. I paid $9.95/qt. I've seen it for $8.95-11.95/qt.
Its an easy job. Just remove the drain plug, drain the fluid, remove the upper plug, replace the drain plug, and fill the tranny. I used one of those $3 pumpst to pumpt the fluid out of the bottle with one tube and into the tranny with another at the same time. It was worth the $3.
That's the easy way. You can also drain by removing the big sensor at the bottom of the tranny. Its a round plastic plug-looking thing with a wire coming out of it. there is a 10mm bolt on the side of the sensor holding it to the tranny. The first time I drained my tranny using the sensor, I pried the plug out and cracked it. It was easy to replace but cost another $20 or so. I was smart tonight and very gently pried out the sensor after removing the bolt. Unfortunately, after draining the tranny I overtightened the bolt while replacing the sensor and the bolt broke. I had to use a left handed drill bit to remove the bolt from the hole. It was a pain. So, you can do it this way but be careful.
Its really very easy. You'll have no problem. Just be a little careful if you pull out the sensor to drain.
Its an easy job. Just remove the drain plug, drain the fluid, remove the upper plug, replace the drain plug, and fill the tranny. I used one of those $3 pumpst to pumpt the fluid out of the bottle with one tube and into the tranny with another at the same time. It was worth the $3.
That's the easy way. You can also drain by removing the big sensor at the bottom of the tranny. Its a round plastic plug-looking thing with a wire coming out of it. there is a 10mm bolt on the side of the sensor holding it to the tranny. The first time I drained my tranny using the sensor, I pried the plug out and cracked it. It was easy to replace but cost another $20 or so. I was smart tonight and very gently pried out the sensor after removing the bolt. Unfortunately, after draining the tranny I overtightened the bolt while replacing the sensor and the bolt broke. I had to use a left handed drill bit to remove the bolt from the hole. It was a pain. So, you can do it this way but be careful.
Its really very easy. You'll have no problem. Just be a little careful if you pull out the sensor to drain.
#7
i know changin the tranny fluid makes the shifting easier and smoother, just exactly how much smoother and easier? because on my car, its pretty rigid, not sure if the previous owner changed the tranny fluid
#8
Originally Posted by maximazation
not sure if the previous owner changed the tranny fluid
#9
Originally Posted by 96stillen_max
if your not sure the previous owner changed something or not, then thats a good enough reason to change it. the oil is not that expensive and replacing it is not too hard either.
Combined with a short-shifter the notchiness using regular GL-4 is hard (damn near impossible in freezing temps). I've found MT-90 to be excellent for both our open and VLSD diffs. For only $40 can you afford not to protect our already problem trannys?
Oh, and here's the Canadian dealer link if anybody still needs.
http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers_in...=26&submit.y=5
#11
If you stay on top of your maintenace you can use whatever you want but like bejay1 said it is only 40$ to go syntho, redline mt-90 covers the stock fluid requirements better than redline mtl, as for the used gear oil it is just a matter of getting off our lazy duffs and taking it to a used oil collection center. haha
#12
You can also get Redline mt-90 off of myoilshop.com. With promo code I paid about $7 per quart. I had issues shifting from 3rd to 4th at high rpms (4k+) ever since I bought (didn't notice it during the test drive). I changed the oil which appeared to be the same oil the car came with and it appears that the problem is gone for good.
As far as disposing used car fluids, I just take it to the local gas station they take all crap I give them. I believe in the state of pennsylvaina the law states that all official inspection stations are supposed to take used oil and/or coolant for free.
As far as disposing used car fluids, I just take it to the local gas station they take all crap I give them. I believe in the state of pennsylvaina the law states that all official inspection stations are supposed to take used oil and/or coolant for free.
#13
ive been told that you dont even need to change your gear oil for a reaaly long time in a manual trani, aperently thats why its so inconvenient to check your levels and whatever. the manager at Lordco, this trani shop here, told me all this junk....and that you would never need a trani cooler in this kind of car no matter how ricey it got.
#14
Originally Posted by dayglo
ive been told that you dont even need to change your gear oil for a reaaly long time in a manual trani, aperently thats why its so inconvenient to check your levels and whatever. the manager at Lordco, this trani shop here, told me all this junk....and that you would never need a trani cooler in this kind of car no matter how ricey it got.
In any case, I did, because MT90 5 quarts is not very expensive. I put it in my 97 recently and I think it's a touch better when cold, but I'm still not entirely sure. It does seem a bit lighter though with less difficulty pusshing into gear.
#15
Originally Posted by MaxxAddict
Does this stuff really work?
- Below freezing: Absolutely no notchiness when the gear oil is still cold. Much better than OEM gear oil.
- During warmup, there is a "transition" point where MT-90 makes the shifts really notchy. Worse than OEM and that is pretty bad.
- After the gearbox reaches operating temperature the shifts are slightly notchy, but still better than OEM.
I should have tried the MTL/MT-90 mix the second time around, but didn't. I'm also considering going semi-syn next time (90K).
#16
I have stock fluid for 60k, Changed it at 60 at the dealer - it was still hard to get into gear when cold and still notchy. Changed to redline Mt90 at 78k. Now It shifts MUCH better in cold weather and some notchiness is gone. It is not a miracle, but helps.
#18
Originally Posted by rmurdoch
Thanls for posting the dealers. The one I went to previously in Vancouver is the one shown. As I stated they had no Redline in a GL4, just GL5.
I'm still wondering what you people do with your old gear oil, etc.
I'm still wondering what you people do with your old gear oil, etc.
Please don't be a turd and pour it onthe ground or throw it out in your regular trash!
#19
Originally Posted by Ammi
My MR2 had slight grinding going into 3rd and MT-90 got rid of that problem
LOL, same here. That and replacing the shifter bushings with bearings.
I also run Redline in my 01 Max. I tried Amsoil, but since Amsoil changed stuff around, I went back to Redline.
#20
If you are going to keep your vehicle for a while, why not use synthetic? The benefits are pretty evident and it's worth the extra cash.
As far as disposing of used oil and fluids, I take mine to the nearest Advance Auto. You can dispose of your junk at any place that sells or replaces oil, i.e. Jiffy Lube, Auto Zone, Pep Boys. There is no excuse to dump refuse into Mother Earth.
As far as disposing of used oil and fluids, I take mine to the nearest Advance Auto. You can dispose of your junk at any place that sells or replaces oil, i.e. Jiffy Lube, Auto Zone, Pep Boys. There is no excuse to dump refuse into Mother Earth.
#21
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Posts: n/a
MT-90 combined with the urethane shifter bushing from Top Element Tuning made my shifts very smooth and precise. I don't think the fluid was too much of an improvement over what was in there, but the bushing definitely contributes to the precision feel going into each gear. I just put in RedLine for the peace of mind of having quality fluid in our wimpy trans.
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