Basic Motor Oil Question
Basic Motor Oil Question
i have a 96 max GLE and it has 122500 mile on it. i wanted to switch to synthetic oil because everyone recommend its. i went ot auto-rx. and i like the idea of cleaning it out first. my question is has anyone else used this and why is synthetic better. also whats the difference in sythetic,dino, and synthetic blend????
I was the one who suggested you use AutoRX and am presently using it before switching to synthetic. I thought it would be a good idea for you to try AutoRX given you don't know the track record of the first 99K of your vehicle's life.
I believe you said you drive 415 miles per week, mostly highway. Switching to synthetic would give you the opportunity to extend your oil-change intervals and may increase your engine's power and fuel economy modestly. One advantage of synthetic oil is less friction upon cold startup, which is not a consideration as much for you, given mild Florida winters.
You have been on this website for a year and should know the differences between synthetic, dino and synthetic blend my now. I am not remotely interested in going to a synthetic blend.
Buy some AutoRX and consider switching to Mobil 1 5W30 or 10W30. Use a good oil filter such as Nissan OEM, Mobil 1, WIX, Purolator PureOne or NAPA Gold.
I believe you said you drive 415 miles per week, mostly highway. Switching to synthetic would give you the opportunity to extend your oil-change intervals and may increase your engine's power and fuel economy modestly. One advantage of synthetic oil is less friction upon cold startup, which is not a consideration as much for you, given mild Florida winters.
You have been on this website for a year and should know the differences between synthetic, dino and synthetic blend my now. I am not remotely interested in going to a synthetic blend.
Buy some AutoRX and consider switching to Mobil 1 5W30 or 10W30. Use a good oil filter such as Nissan OEM, Mobil 1, WIX, Purolator PureOne or NAPA Gold.
Originally Posted by junzhang
Change dino every 3000 miles in summer and synth every 3000 in winter. The contamination of burned gas as flow point is the main reason here.
If you want to throw money out the window, in this time of high gas prices, follow his instructions, but I wouldn't.
Bobo is correct. You have to consider the type of driving you do. Even in the winter, if you drive long distances and the engine can completely warm up, you don't need to go to short oil-change intervals. The toughest driving on both your car and the motor oil involves short winter trips where nothing has a chance to completely warm up. If short trips with some cool time is how the mileage is put on your car, then you should consider the 3K mile change interval. Base on your earlier note, I suspect you have a drive of about 40 miles each way back and forth to work. That should be enought to get the oil hot in the winter, particularly in Florida. Where 40 miles would not get the oil hot enough would be where the outside temps are near zero degrees F all day for days.
I reccomend M1 5w-30, id say a good OCI would be ~5k miles, mabye more cause of the highway factor. Yes Auto-RX is a good idea. use a good filter too.
Synthetic Vs. Dino can be read about for years with a simple search on the internet, overall for a engine in good condition that you want to last synthetic is the way to go it has countless benefits. Dino isnt bad, there is just better options, and syn blend is better than dino, but most have less than 10% synthetic oil in them and for that little synthetic there price is unjustified. That is a VERY short overview
Synthetic Vs. Dino can be read about for years with a simple search on the internet, overall for a engine in good condition that you want to last synthetic is the way to go it has countless benefits. Dino isnt bad, there is just better options, and syn blend is better than dino, but most have less than 10% synthetic oil in them and for that little synthetic there price is unjustified. That is a VERY short overview
Synthetic in a '90SE w/ 155K...
Hi, I've Been reading this and other oil threads and this is probably the thread to ask my question. First, some background...
I'm in the process of doing the 1st of two Auto-RX treatments. I was going to continue using dino Castrol High Mileage 5w30 thereafter.
Although the car has 155K the miles are 80% freeway. No oil leaks or leaking of any other fluids. I've read on the site that going synthetic can introduce leaks due to the detergent-like action on everything.
Question... would you go synthetic or dino at this point in the life of the car? I enjoy driving it and plan on keeping it for awhile.
I'm in the process of doing the 1st of two Auto-RX treatments. I was going to continue using dino Castrol High Mileage 5w30 thereafter.
Although the car has 155K the miles are 80% freeway. No oil leaks or leaking of any other fluids. I've read on the site that going synthetic can introduce leaks due to the detergent-like action on everything.
Question... would you go synthetic or dino at this point in the life of the car? I enjoy driving it and plan on keeping it for awhile.
Run the 2 AutoRX trials first. I am just completing an AutoRX clean phase, followed by rinse phase, on my Maxima, although it has considerably fewer miles than yours. I am then switching to synthetic.
You may well be successful switching to synthetic after completing the AutoRX trials, but follow the instructions to the letter.
You may well be successful switching to synthetic after completing the AutoRX trials, but follow the instructions to the letter.
Yepp, that's my plan with the Auto-RX using Nissan OEM filters and Castrol 5w30. It'll take me awhile to do the cleaning and rinsing phases, too. BTW, do you plan on adding 2 oz of Auto-RX each OCI on an ongoing basis for maintenance?
thanks again.
thanks again.
OEM filters are garbage. I used Mobil 1 w/ Mobil 1 filters. Oil used to come out really black until I started using M1. Color lightened up A LOT.
I bought my car at 59k miles.. apparently they didnt know what the hell to do with the car.
I bought my car at 59k miles.. apparently they didnt know what the hell to do with the car.
I used Auto RX in my 2001 I 30. The first oil change Chevron Supreme 5W30 (cleaning phase) was filthy in about 1200 miles. I changed it with Quaker State 10W30 dino for the rinse phase and the oil is clean after 1000 mles. I 'll switch to Redline 5W30 after the rinse phase. The I 30 only had about 34K miles on it. I used the Auto RX so I could start with a clean slate.
Originally Posted by o0godspeed0o
OEM filters are garbage. I used Mobil 1 w/ Mobil 1 filters. Oil used to come out really black until I started using M1. Color lightened up A LOT.
I bought my car at 59k miles.. apparently they didnt know what the hell to do with the car.
I bought my car at 59k miles.. apparently they didnt know what the hell to do with the car.
Yes M1 filters are better, but color has very little to do with condition of oil.
Visual may not be the BEST ck, but it can and will tell u something when you need a quick check. I've seen oil look easy on the dip stick but when you drain it, it looks COMPLETELY diff't. You can SEE the carbon and crap in it.. Forget that... Do the trend, take ur oil to be analyzed. Though I don't even bother with it, I stick to what I believe works and it has been good. You can tell if oil has been in the system TOO LONG, better play it safe than leave the crap in. The marginal cost is minimal imho.
Btw, the join date means jack. People can join yet neglect to SPEND TIME here, don't judge people according to how long they've been here, it means nothing. Don't judge a student who's been in school for X amount of years according to some blue-print.
Btw, the join date means jack. People can join yet neglect to SPEND TIME here, don't judge people according to how long they've been here, it means nothing. Don't judge a student who's been in school for X amount of years according to some blue-print.
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