Switchin grades of oil Winter/Summer ?
10-14-2005, 08:23 AM
#41
Wow 20w-50 is some thick stuff. Is this synthetic? If one was that worried about wear protection, why no consider going synthetic? Much better wear protection than normal oil + you can use a reasonable weight.
Originally Posted by A33Black
Here in South Florida I run 15W-40 in the winter and 20W-50 in the summer (per European VQ30 viscosity recommendations).
The Europeans are more concerned with wear (and don't have to deal with CAFE standards) so they recommend higher viscosities.
Nissan USA says 5W-30 so they don't penalized due to CAFE regs.
Food for thought...
Take a peek at a European VQ30 manual sometime, it may surprise you
The Europeans are more concerned with wear (and don't have to deal with CAFE standards) so they recommend higher viscosities.
Nissan USA says 5W-30 so they don't penalized due to CAFE regs.
Food for thought...
Take a peek at a European VQ30 manual sometime, it may surprise you
10-14-2005, 08:25 AM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
I'm just stating what I've read over and over again on BITOG. A lot of members (you must remember their vehicle selection is all over the map) rave about Havoline and Chevron is talked up considerably as well.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Havoline and Chevron are good? 2nd time I've seen this. This stuff is cheap as hell.
10-14-2005, 08:25 AM
#43
I believe I've mentioned synthetics as being the exception.
As long as we are na and don't push our engines hard, you could use most anything. Oil changes being the most important factor. Go FI, and then consider looking hard at the oil specs.
As long as we are na and don't push our engines hard, you could use most anything. Oil changes being the most important factor. Go FI, and then consider looking hard at the oil specs.
Originally Posted by kcryan
Actually, I am Bob, the oil guy......but lets keep this on the down low 
Anyway, 0w-40 may be too big, it may not, in a dino i would say it would be too bit (too many VI's) but that is a different story in a synthetic, I personally have considered, and will continue to consider a few different ideas for my oil:
-Find Me some GC
-Stick with m1-5-30(the 5w is actually thicker at operating temp than the 10w)
-Get me some XD-3
-Try M1 Truck and SUV 5-40 (mabye not now but in a few years and a few hundred thousand miles...)
And many other ideas, all are good routes.
We fight too much here
Anyway, 0w-40 may be too big, it may not, in a dino i would say it would be too bit (too many VI's) but that is a different story in a synthetic, I personally have considered, and will continue to consider a few different ideas for my oil:
-Find Me some GC
-Stick with m1-5-30(the 5w is actually thicker at operating temp than the 10w)
-Get me some XD-3
-Try M1 Truck and SUV 5-40 (mabye not now but in a few years and a few hundred thousand miles...)
And many other ideas, all are good routes.
We fight too much here
10-14-2005, 08:49 AM
#44
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
you can use a reasonable weight.
I'd like to see a link to the European VQ30 manuals as A33black mentions. I may need to reevaluate this thin oil craze in the name of Nissan meeting CAFE stds.
10-14-2005, 09:47 AM
#45
Since Nissan most likely doesn't build their engines at two different bearing clearances, I'd be also interested in seeing the Euro manual.
Your late uncle probably built his engines "loose" so he could use thicker oils. Nissan as well as most makers build their engines pretty tight.
Your late uncle probably built his engines "loose" so he could use thicker oils. Nissan as well as most makers build their engines pretty tight.
10-14-2005, 10:07 AM
#46
I don't believe my uncle built them loose, as he'd go through break in, but that's 30 years ago. I also don't remember anything thinner than 30 weight, and that was for winter.
Anyway, since I'm well past the factory warranty period, the choice of oil viscocity and OCI is up to me, I suppose, but checking out what European, down under or even Jamaican max owners have in their manuals would help.
p.s. my wife's Odyssey calls for the very watery 5W20. As soon as the drivetrain warranty expired I started putting 5W30 just for peace of mind.
Anyway, since I'm well past the factory warranty period, the choice of oil viscocity and OCI is up to me, I suppose, but checking out what European, down under or even Jamaican max owners have in their manuals would help.
p.s. my wife's Odyssey calls for the very watery 5W20. As soon as the drivetrain warranty expired I started putting 5W30 just for peace of mind.
10-14-2005, 10:25 AM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
From what I can gather, the Esso XD3 Extra, 0w30, PAO, synthetic that I plan on switching to in another couple months or so, is thicker at operating temperature than Mobil 1 as well as the Castrol GTX 5w30 I typically run. The 0w will give me excellent cold start-up, for the few days that I need it at the Coast, and the 30w should protect me for my forays into the Interior in the heat of the summer.
I will report back on my findings.
A fellow .orger, SunMax, started using it about 2 months ago after I sold him 5 litres.
I will report back on my findings.
A fellow .orger, SunMax, started using it about 2 months ago after I sold him 5 litres.
10-14-2005, 11:06 AM
#48
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 77
Here's a link to a pic/partial page straight out of the European 2000 Maxima Factory Nissan Service Manual:
http://www.cardomain.com/id/a33black
Save the expanded picture to your drive and then enlarge it in an image editor to see the details of the "thermometer graphs" on the left (car domain shrinks it for some reason).
In Miami I've never even considered using 5W-30 (mostly because the Euro FSM says no to 5W-30 above 59F). After much though and deliberation, I've settled on using any major brand dino 15W-40 (for the relatively warm Miami winters) or 20W-50 (for scorching summers). Change every 3-5K w/ OEM 9E000 filter only.
I admit, 20W-50 during the Miami summer may seem VERY thick, but I rarely drive less than 5 miles at a time. Mostly do fast highway 15 mile runs to work and then back home at end of day.
Again, I don't think everyone should follow my choice of vis, every person has their own needs/specific conditions, etc. and should adjust their choice accordingly. BUT what I am saying is educate yourself on how CAFE has affected things and make an informed decision!!!
The one glaring item in the Euro FSM that stands out: 5W-30 is NOT allowed above 59F ambient.
Google up on how CAFE has affected the manufacturers recommendations regarding viscosity here in the USA...in a word, scary
.
Lastly BTW, everything mentioned in this message, I think, also applies to VQ35. Any Euro/Non-USA VQ35 owners care to chime in?
http://www.cardomain.com/id/a33black
Save the expanded picture to your drive and then enlarge it in an image editor to see the details of the "thermometer graphs" on the left (car domain shrinks it for some reason).
In Miami I've never even considered using 5W-30 (mostly because the Euro FSM says no to 5W-30 above 59F). After much though and deliberation, I've settled on using any major brand dino 15W-40 (for the relatively warm Miami winters) or 20W-50 (for scorching summers). Change every 3-5K w/ OEM 9E000 filter only.
I admit, 20W-50 during the Miami summer may seem VERY thick, but I rarely drive less than 5 miles at a time. Mostly do fast highway 15 mile runs to work and then back home at end of day.
Again, I don't think everyone should follow my choice of vis, every person has their own needs/specific conditions, etc. and should adjust their choice accordingly. BUT what I am saying is educate yourself on how CAFE has affected things and make an informed decision!!!
The one glaring item in the Euro FSM that stands out: 5W-30 is NOT allowed above 59F ambient.
Google up on how CAFE has affected the manufacturers recommendations regarding viscosity here in the USA...in a word, scary
.Lastly BTW, everything mentioned in this message, I think, also applies to VQ35. Any Euro/Non-USA VQ35 owners care to chime in?
10-14-2005, 02:35 PM
#50
I also started using XD3 0W30 about 2 weeks ago after switching from Mobil1 5W30 Supersyn. No comment yet except that very shortly after I put this in the timing chaing "rattle on cold start" problem reared it's ugly head. Coincidence? Maybe, I am not knowledgable enough to say for sure.
Another thing I noticed with this oil is that it seems to be darker straight out of the bottle than most oils. Usually, brand new oil is hard to even see on the dipstick because it's so light/clear. That's not the case with this stuff. Just an observation.
Another thing I noticed with this oil is that it seems to be darker straight out of the bottle than most oils. Usually, brand new oil is hard to even see on the dipstick because it's so light/clear. That's not the case with this stuff. Just an observation.
Originally Posted by Bobo
From what I can gather, the Esso XD3 Extra, 0w30, PAO, synthetic that I plan on switching to in another couple months or so, is thicker at operating temperature than Mobil 1 as well as the Castrol GTX 5w30 I typically run. The 0w will give me excellent cold start-up, for the few days that I need it at the Coast, and the 30w should protect me for my forays into the Interior in the heat of the summer.
I will report back on my findings.
A fellow .orger, SunMax, started using it about 2 months ago after I sold him 5 litres.
I will report back on my findings.
A fellow .orger, SunMax, started using it about 2 months ago after I sold him 5 litres.
10-14-2005, 10:43 PM
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
From what I gather, German Castrol oil is green. What do you make of that?
Originally Posted by BigFly_2K2SE
I also started using XD3 0W30 about 2 weeks ago after switching from Mobil1 5W30 Supersyn. No comment yet except that very shortly after I put this in the timing chaing "rattle on cold start" problem reared it's ugly head. Coincidence? Maybe, I am not knowledgable enough to say for sure.
Another thing I noticed with this oil is that it seems to be darker straight out of the bottle than most oils. Usually, brand new oil is hard to even see on the dipstick because it's so light/clear. That's not the case with this stuff. Just an observation.
Another thing I noticed with this oil is that it seems to be darker straight out of the bottle than most oils. Usually, brand new oil is hard to even see on the dipstick because it's so light/clear. That's not the case with this stuff. Just an observation.
10-15-2005, 12:18 PM
#53
I'd be swearing at the son of a b!tch who put antifreeze in the wrong bottle!
Originally Posted by Bobo
From what I gather, German Castrol oil is green. What do you make of that?
10-15-2005, 12:58 PM
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
German Castrol is a synthetic 0w30 oil that is highly touted on BITOG. It is often diffficult to find. There presently are two kinds available to my knowledge - a green and a gold oil.
Originally Posted by BigFly_2K2SE
I'd be swearing at the son of a b!tch who put antifreeze in the wrong bottle!
11-04-2005, 01:37 PM
#56
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Since Nissan most likely doesn't build their engines at two different bearing clearances, I'd be also interested in seeing the Euro manual.
Your late uncle probably built his engines "loose" so he could use thicker oils. Nissan as well as most makers build their engines pretty tight.
Your late uncle probably built his engines "loose" so he could use thicker oils. Nissan as well as most makers build their engines pretty tight.
http://www.nissanboard.de/artikel_nissan_46124.html
11-08-2005, 07:48 PM
#57
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 220
So to clarify, in the coming season of cold weather (in chicago) is it bad to use 10w-30? will it be a harder start in the mornins? ((Just my luck my new job starts at 6:30 am and i'm gonna have to leave my house at 5am)) cuz for some reason all the parts stores only stock 10w-30 and dont have 5w-30, I'm sure somebody does but i'm 1500miles over so i got 4 quarts of Castrol Syntech 10w-30. Should i find a way to get my 4 quarts of 5w-30 or am i cool (no pun intended) for this winter but should i make a mental note for next year?
11-08-2005, 08:20 PM
#58
You mean to tell us that none of the parts stores and Walmarts in the vicinity of Hanover Pk do not carry 5W30 oils??? Somehow, I have a hard time believing that. You are not looking hard enough.
In any case, I'd use 5W in the winter. Even Iffy Lube carries 5W30.
In any case, I'd use 5W in the winter. Even Iffy Lube carries 5W30.
11-08-2005, 08:31 PM
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 3,595
Originally Posted by wannaboostbad
So to clarify, in the coming season of cold weather (in chicago) is it bad to use 10w-30? will it be a harder start in the mornins? ((Just my luck my new job starts at 6:30 am and i'm gonna have to leave my house at 5am)) cuz for some reason all the parts stores only stock 10w-30 and dont have 5w-30, I'm sure somebody does but i'm 1500miles over so i got 4 quarts of Castrol Syntech 10w-30. Should i find a way to get my 4 quarts of 5w-30 or am i cool (no pun intended) for this winter but should i make a mental note for next year?
11-17-2005, 03:51 PM
#61
Originally Posted by kcryan
anyone got the whole manual? now im interested
After I finish my scant GC stash (or save it and use it for winters only), I'm going 40 weight. My 5 spd. cruises at too high rpm to be using thin oils (to think that's I've gone about 60K miles on thin M1 5W30
).
11-17-2005, 04:26 PM
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
Originally Posted by CCS2k1Max
Finally confirmed. If you havent read it yet, check out Paranoil's post here in this BITOG thread
After I finish my scant GC stash (or save it and use it for winters only), I'm going 40 weight. My 5 spd. cruises at too high rpm to be using thin oils (to think that's I've gone about 60K miles on thin M1 5W30 ).
After I finish my scant GC stash (or save it and use it for winters only), I'm going 40 weight. My 5 spd. cruises at too high rpm to be using thin oils (to think that's I've gone about 60K miles on thin M1 5W30
).Do you think I will be good to go when I switch to Esso XD3, 0w30, PAO full synthetic? My climate is about identical to that of Seattle.
11-17-2005, 09:39 PM
#64
Originally Posted by CCS2k1Max
As I understand, 5W30 GTX viscocity at 100C is 10.7 cSt. The old M1 was about 10.0 cSt, while GC is 12 cSt. I hear M1 EP is around 11 cST.
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