42K on my 03 6 speed and i need to get the tranny gear oil changed. should i go to a dealer or my local car clinic. How much should it be at a dealership if i go there?

 

Avoid the stealership like the plague. I had my gear oil changed at Mr. Lube in February at less than the cost of a dino oil change. The dealership would have charged at least double what I paid and they don't even carry the proper gear oil.

Make sure you put the right stuff in. Does the 03 call for GL4 or GL5. Do not use GL5 if it calls for GL4 as it will trash any brass bushings and potentially your synchromesh.

You might also want to consider Redline MT90 synthetic gear oil.

 

I second the Redline MT90 recommandation.

Its a pretty easy change, anyplace should be able to do it without any problems. If you have a jack and a few jackstands you could easily do it yourself in your garage.

 

Good write-up for 02-03s here:

http://www.greghome.com/Greg%27s%20G...axSE/MT-90.htm

 

My OEM gear oil wasn't changed out until almost 57K, mostly highway miles. Nissan doesn't have a recommended change interval on the 4th Gen. My gear oil was black and I didn't like the viscosity of it when it was being drained.

I replaced the OEM gear oil with Quaker State 75w90 GL4 and plan on running it for 30K, which I've seen is a realistic interval.

Perhaps I'll use the Redline MT-90 next. What kind of a change interval would be best for that product?

 

I've used RL MT-90 for about 42K miles (changed at 30K ad at 60K). I am actually looking into trying something else because I can't stand the notchiness when the gear oil is cold and my butt dyno thinks it's getting worse (a week ago we had lows only in the upper 30s/low 40s and the synchros were far too notchy for this early in the season). In the past, I had to double clutch for the first 5-10 minutes when ambient temps are below freezing. If the trend continues, I may have to double clutch below 45 F...

My guess is that the VII in MT-90 make it just too slick until the oil starts warming up. I am considering draining the straight MT-90 and putting in a blend of MT-90 (or another good quality synthetic GL-4) and a good dino gear oil to get the best of both worlds. I am looking into Sta-lube 75W90 GL4 (dino as I understand), but the CRC website is short on technical data for Sta-lube.

 

I tried at 3 local stealerships and none of them even had GL4 gear oil. One had a gear oil that "met the specs of both GL4 and GL5", whatever that means.

The Quaker State I'm running right now seems to be an improvement over the OEM gear oil, albeit it had 57K on it when it was drained. I got it last February and didn't notice any notchiness, but it doesn't get as cold where I live as it does it Chicago.

I see your White Sox got lucky and stole a game last night, lol! The ump must have been on the payroll.

 

thats really good thanks

 

Bobo, it gets cold, but I shouldn't have to deal with notchy shifting at about 40 F, especially with only 12K miles on the MT-90.

OT, but I no longer follow MLB for a lot of reasons: no longer affordable, juice, lively *****, strikes/strike threats, prima donnas, etc. No thanks. The last game I went to was minor league this summer to the Schaumburg Flyers and it was just as much fun. Minor league game tickets prices (free parking), but major league consession prices. Minor league and college baseball are my choice.

Anyway, it was a lousy call IMHO.

 

Agreed, the shifting shouldn't be notchy at 40F. If it is, I question what its like at 0 Fahrenheit and colder on a windy day in January.

 

At 0 F the best way to put it is STIFF into any gear if you don't double clutch. Luckily, my car sits in my office underground or my garage at home, so getting it to operating temperature doesn't take as long as if it's been outside for a while. My concern is some less than minimum wage valet parking attendant working for tips tearing up a gear if I'm out and about town.

 

i work at a dodge dealership and in parts they have Amsoil 75W-90 Gear Lube 100% synthetic. Is that the stuff to use?, i could probably just have a tech here do it if thats the right stuff.

thanks

 

IIRC, Amsoil makes several different 75W90 gear oils. If you go the Amsoil route, make sure the mechanics use the straight GL-4. The old Series 2000 GL-4 was discontinued some time last year, and after a lot of griping by the gearhead community, they came out with a new GL-4, MTG. Here's a link:

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/mtg.aspx

 

thats what they have, the 2000 series, must be left over, unless its the last one and its just for display. So if its GL-4 its ok to use then?

 

I doesn't matter whether they use S2K or MTG, just make sure they use a straight GL-4. I am not sold on GL-4/Gl-5 or the GL-5/MT-1 combos, with "corrosion inhibitors". The ASTM D-130 copper strip tests are done with virgin oils. I'd like to see what the corrosion inhibitor levels are and the copper strip test results are after those oils have 30K miles on them.

 

wow, that amsoil isnt cheap oh, its $94 for 12, nevermind, thats not bad

 

im gonna order the MT-90 from http://www.sportcompactonly.com/prod...2525&c=164&l=2. I'll do it myself since it looks as easy as changing the oil. I'll need 3 quarts right?

 

Check Autozone, they usually stock/ can order it. Save on shipping.