Oil - Syn to Dyno and Dyno to Syn = Problems?
12-04-2006, 02:25 PM
#1
Oil - Syn to Dyno and Dyno to Syn = Problems?
I was wondering. My car has always use Mobil SuperSyn as per the Service Records from the previous owner. I changed the oil with the regular Mobil. Have done so twice and will be switching back to Syn indefinitely at my next oil change.
Is the back and forth bad? I know its not alot but heard from someone it was bad and just wanted to verify here with the people that know.
Thanks
Is the back and forth bad? I know its not alot but heard from someone it was bad and just wanted to verify here with the people that know.
Thanks
12-04-2006, 06:37 PM
#3
It was not my intention... I was at the dealer, requested an oil change and forgot to specify SYN. The next oil change after that I just followed suit and continued with Dino. Next Oil change going back to SYN and will stay there.
12-04-2006, 07:31 PM
#6
Originally Posted by MaximaGT-R
i dont believe its would cause anything major but i would recommend not switching back and fourth due to the thickness of the oil.
12-05-2006, 06:15 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 116
Viscosity doesn't vary between Synthetic & Conventional for a particular weight oil. Viscosity is a measurement of "runniness". You could measure molasses, honey, maple syrup and motor oil and they _could_ all have the same viscosity.
What is important about Synthetic is its ability to withstand thermal breakdown.
Oil has 2 primary jobs. 1) provide lubrication and 2) carry dirt & contaminants to the filter.
Since Synthetic doesn't break down under heat, it is capable of providing lubrication for a much longer period of time. Or thought of another way, Conventional motor oil will break down and ultimately not provide lubrication in a relatively short amount of time. This is why motor oil manufacturers recommend that you change your oil every 3000 miles. (That and they sell more.) And since conventional motor oil breaks down, not only does it loose its ability to lubricate, but the process of breaking down, creates dirt & contaminants that need to be filtered out. So conventional motor oil is, in a way, its own worst enemy.
Synthetic, while superior to conventional, will need to be changed regularly too. Even though it doesn't break down under heat, it does eventually become saturated with contaminants - thus it can no longer fulfill one of it's 2 jobs. Since synthetic doesn't break down, there are less issues with "sludge" in the engine. (Your mechanic will appreciate this when he has to change a valve cover gasket.)
It should also be noted that Synthetic is made from conventional motor oil, so, there really aren't any compatability issues per se. You can mix them together, although that's typically not recommended. In fact, many oil manufacturers sell blended oils - part synthetic & part conventional. This is done primarily for cost issues. It's good to know that you can mix, as if you happen to be in the middle of nowhere, and you have synth in the engine and the mom&pop gas station only has conventional, you can add a quart and not worry.
The real key here is to not mix viscosity. In other words, if you have 10w-30 in the engine, then only add 10w-30. It is generally accepted that switching from a summer weight oil (like 10w-40) to a winter weight oil (like 5w-30) is not an issue. In other words, you don't need to "flush" the engine. Just drain well & change the filter and your Max will be happy.
What is important about Synthetic is its ability to withstand thermal breakdown.
Oil has 2 primary jobs. 1) provide lubrication and 2) carry dirt & contaminants to the filter.
Since Synthetic doesn't break down under heat, it is capable of providing lubrication for a much longer period of time. Or thought of another way, Conventional motor oil will break down and ultimately not provide lubrication in a relatively short amount of time. This is why motor oil manufacturers recommend that you change your oil every 3000 miles. (That and they sell more.) And since conventional motor oil breaks down, not only does it loose its ability to lubricate, but the process of breaking down, creates dirt & contaminants that need to be filtered out. So conventional motor oil is, in a way, its own worst enemy.
Synthetic, while superior to conventional, will need to be changed regularly too. Even though it doesn't break down under heat, it does eventually become saturated with contaminants - thus it can no longer fulfill one of it's 2 jobs. Since synthetic doesn't break down, there are less issues with "sludge" in the engine. (Your mechanic will appreciate this when he has to change a valve cover gasket.)
It should also be noted that Synthetic is made from conventional motor oil, so, there really aren't any compatability issues per se. You can mix them together, although that's typically not recommended. In fact, many oil manufacturers sell blended oils - part synthetic & part conventional. This is done primarily for cost issues. It's good to know that you can mix, as if you happen to be in the middle of nowhere, and you have synth in the engine and the mom&pop gas station only has conventional, you can add a quart and not worry.
The real key here is to not mix viscosity. In other words, if you have 10w-30 in the engine, then only add 10w-30. It is generally accepted that switching from a summer weight oil (like 10w-40) to a winter weight oil (like 5w-30) is not an issue. In other words, you don't need to "flush" the engine. Just drain well & change the filter and your Max will be happy.
12-05-2006, 07:52 AM
#8
Originally Posted by JohnWEngle
Viscosity doesn't vary between Synthetic & Conventional for a particular weight oil. Viscosity is a measurement of "runniness". You could measure molasses, honey, maple syrup and motor oil and they _could_ all have the same viscosity.
What is important about Synthetic is its ability to withstand thermal breakdown.
Oil has 2 primary jobs. 1) provide lubrication and 2) carry dirt & contaminants to the filter.
Since Synthetic doesn't break down under heat, it is capable of providing lubrication for a much longer period of time. Or thought of another way, Conventional motor oil will break down and ultimately not provide lubrication in a relatively short amount of time. This is why motor oil manufacturers recommend that you change your oil every 3000 miles. (That and they sell more.) And since conventional motor oil breaks down, not only does it loose its ability to lubricate, but the process of breaking down, creates dirt & contaminants that need to be filtered out. So conventional motor oil is, in a way, its own worst enemy.
Synthetic, while superior to conventional, will need to be changed regularly too. Even though it doesn't break down under heat, it does eventually become saturated with contaminants - thus it can no longer fulfill one of it's 2 jobs. Since synthetic doesn't break down, there are less issues with "sludge" in the engine. (Your mechanic will appreciate this when he has to change a valve cover gasket.)
It should also be noted that Synthetic is made from conventional motor oil, so, there really aren't any compatability issues per se. You can mix them together, although that's typically not recommended. In fact, many oil manufacturers sell blended oils - part synthetic & part conventional. This is done primarily for cost issues. It's good to know that you can mix, as if you happen to be in the middle of nowhere, and you have synth in the engine and the mom&pop gas station only has conventional, you can add a quart and not worry.
The real key here is to not mix viscosity. In other words, if you have 10w-30 in the engine, then only add 10w-30. It is generally accepted that switching from a summer weight oil (like 10w-40) to a winter weight oil (like 5w-30) is not an issue. In other words, you don't need to "flush" the engine. Just drain well & change the filter and your Max will be happy.
What is important about Synthetic is its ability to withstand thermal breakdown.
Oil has 2 primary jobs. 1) provide lubrication and 2) carry dirt & contaminants to the filter.
Since Synthetic doesn't break down under heat, it is capable of providing lubrication for a much longer period of time. Or thought of another way, Conventional motor oil will break down and ultimately not provide lubrication in a relatively short amount of time. This is why motor oil manufacturers recommend that you change your oil every 3000 miles. (That and they sell more.) And since conventional motor oil breaks down, not only does it loose its ability to lubricate, but the process of breaking down, creates dirt & contaminants that need to be filtered out. So conventional motor oil is, in a way, its own worst enemy.
Synthetic, while superior to conventional, will need to be changed regularly too. Even though it doesn't break down under heat, it does eventually become saturated with contaminants - thus it can no longer fulfill one of it's 2 jobs. Since synthetic doesn't break down, there are less issues with "sludge" in the engine. (Your mechanic will appreciate this when he has to change a valve cover gasket.)
It should also be noted that Synthetic is made from conventional motor oil, so, there really aren't any compatability issues per se. You can mix them together, although that's typically not recommended. In fact, many oil manufacturers sell blended oils - part synthetic & part conventional. This is done primarily for cost issues. It's good to know that you can mix, as if you happen to be in the middle of nowhere, and you have synth in the engine and the mom&pop gas station only has conventional, you can add a quart and not worry.
The real key here is to not mix viscosity. In other words, if you have 10w-30 in the engine, then only add 10w-30. It is generally accepted that switching from a summer weight oil (like 10w-40) to a winter weight oil (like 5w-30) is not an issue. In other words, you don't need to "flush" the engine. Just drain well & change the filter and your Max will be happy.
Only 14 posts as I write this and yet very intelligent sounding. Thanks for the replies guys.
12-05-2006, 06:33 PM
#11
Originally Posted by JohnWEngle
Oil has 2 primary jobs. 1) provide lubrication and 2) carry dirt & contaminants to the filter.
12-06-2006, 10:00 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by kcryan
Wowo
Your fine, its an old wives tale that its bad, its not, DONT FLUSH IT before going back, if you want to go nuts, run another dino and do auto Rx, but do not use a flush
Take care gents.
Your fine, its an old wives tale that its bad, its not, DONT FLUSH IT before going back, if you want to go nuts, run another dino and do auto Rx, but do not use a flush
Take care gents.
ARX is a safe product, but even so i wouldn't use it unless you outright suspect a need for it (sticky rings, sludge, etc) which again you shouldn't have.
just go back to M1 and be happy.
12-06-2006, 10:52 AM
#13
Originally Posted by sky jumper
I second that - DO NOT FLUSH. flushes are murder on your internals and are pointless unless you have clogged oil ways - which with a life of M1 you certainly do not have (btw you are one lucky b@stard to have found a used car that was only fed M1).
ARX is a safe product, but even so i wouldn't use it unless you outright suspect a need for it (sticky rings, sludge, etc) which again you shouldn't have.
just go back to M1 and be happy.
ARX is a safe product, but even so i wouldn't use it unless you outright suspect a need for it (sticky rings, sludge, etc) which again you shouldn't have.
just go back to M1 and be happy.
Just gonna go back and be happy.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CAN-Toronto FS: E-Manage Ultimate and patch cable
knight_yyz
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
3
10-24-2015 08:05 AM
ag90fox
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
6
09-09-2015 12:22 PM
