This must come as some encouraging news to diehard M1 fans on this forum..

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...522882&fpart=1

Its time to look for alternative syn fluids!!!

 

I have been saying it ever since I did my oil analysis.

 

M1 is fine my UOA's are excellent TBN is where it should be. None of those jokers are doing UOA's it's all crap.

Want a real non-biased FACTUAL thread read this one:

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html

 

I've done a UOA and German Castrol did better for ME. I know mobil1 is a good oil but it is def not the best

 

MaxLoverAz: What do you mean by UOA to prove one way or the other.?

This 4 ball test is done for a few hrs and thats' it, pass/fail (though many oil companies would not stand by the test since it is so brutal on the oil).

As I have said before M1 is a good oil. It was a great oil until it did some marketing gimmicks with M1 and M1 EP. A good oil is a function of the base and additive pkg. M1 did some changes to the base from G-IV to G-III but don't know what happened in the pkg side.

What the study tries to convey is don't be a diehard fan when XOM has done some changes to the oil and for the price I think PP is a good choice.

 

Yes I've seen many a UOA on German Castrol and they are great. I NEVER said M1 was the best I'm just not sold on the spew that was on that "bob is an idiot oil guy" forum...

 

The last time I checked my car doesn't run on 4 ***** and I find that test to be a gimmick and you I quote "Its time to look for alternative syn fluids!!!" based on a gimmick. Do UOA's on your car as you can't dispute the facts, well you can if your a politician but that's another thread.... Plus anyways it's interesting to see how the oils all compare.

Best,

Mike

 

I always do 30K UOA, at at 150K I did it with SuperTech dino 10W30. I took the dino engine oil to 5.5K miles and the numbers were great.

Does that mean ST is bad, no, But then I would expect M1 EP to last 10K miles and also produce good test results.

How come Havoline dino comes up with better numbers than M1 EP.?

All that I am trying to say, there are many org members who swear by the M1 story only to realize they are not getting the money's worth.

Now I rest making my case!!!!

 

Do not rest your case yet. I have been reading this thread. Keep on giving as much onfo as you can to share more ideas with other people.

Personally, I think full synthetic oils are good. The choice is personal. Some are expensive and some are cheap. Its not like people using M1 EP are wasting their money and not getting the engine protection they expect. Even people using Penzoil or whether it is Amsoil. It is your own choice and what you want in your car, how much you are willing to pay for it, and how many miles you are willing to drive with it in your car.

I am about to do my first M1 EP oil change, then I plan to continue with Amsoil.

 

Ok you got me wow what a compelling argument. I have run up to 17k on M1 0W40 (the Euro spec) never used EP but have not seen anything good about it either but that doesn't mean like you have stated that ALL M1 is crap and we should run for the oil fields for another option!!!!!

 

based on the logic of that test, anyone who uses Mobil 1 EP in their car would have their engine worn out within 1000 miles. 1mm per four hours? yeah right.....

 

I read the nonsense going back and forth on BITOG last week and I believe there is a lot of misunderstanding regarding the 4-ball wear test information that started the entire debate. I typically don't participate in discussions like this, but I believe I can offer some constructive comments.

The 4-ball wear test is an industry recognized ASTM test designed to show the relative wear preventive properties of lubricating fluids in sliding contact under the prescribed conditions. It is not a pass/fail test…it is designed to show relative anti-wear properties. The parameters AMSOIL chose for the 0w-30 test (300+ deg F) are particularly severe and twice the standard testing protocol. Customers are often concerned that a light viscosity oil will not offer the same level of protection that a higher viscosity oil will. AMSOIL’s comparison to other products is not intended to communicate that other products are junk or that using them will cause engine failure in 1000 miles or less as Col Ronson concludes; rather it is intended to show that the robust additive package used in AMSOIL SSO provides superior wear protection when compared to competing oils of higher viscosity in the most grueling, high temperature operating conditions. AMSOIL SSO is the most efficient oil in the AMSOIL line-up, yet it offers outstanding wear protection in the most severe operating conditions. I use it here in south Texas year 'round.

AMSOIL has also published a report comparing their 10w-30 motor oil to several competing brands. AMSOIL included the 4-ball wear test in this study as well, but elected to run it at the standard 75 deg C (167 deg F) threshold versus the 150 deg C limit (302 deg F) used for the 0w-30. In the less severe test, Mobil 1 EP did much better than it did at the higher temperature threshold, but still not as good as some other competing oils. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf

I agree with Maxloveraz that his “car doesn’t run on 4-*****”. I also agree that UOA is a good indicator of a lubricant’s performance in field conditions. However, the 4-ball wear test is in fact an industry accepted test designed to measure a lubricant’s ability to protect against wear under prescribed conditions. The high temp protocols are probably more severe than what is normally encountered in an engine, but it is in fact a good indicator of a lubricants performance under controlled laboratory conditions where valid/precise comparisons can be made between different products…its not a “gimmick”.

When selecting a motor oil, or any product for that matter, one needs to consider the total package. While a product might excel in one area, it might well fall flat on its face in another…engineering is a compromise. I like AMSOIL’s 10w-30 comparison test because it subjects several competing brands of oil to several, industry accepted tests and allows the consumer to make an informed decision. While Mobil 1-EP is not a stand-out in any area and definitely wouldn't be my oil of choice, it is a solid performer and a viable alternative for many consumers, price and other factors considered.

I hope this was of value…

 

^^^ Much more informative post. But yeah, the 4-ball test is essentially duplicating conditions you will almost never see in your average combustion engine.

Maybe a automatic transmission would be more likely to see that kind of wear.

But half of Amsoil's marketing is misleading and all a matter of statistics any educated fellow will catch on. Although Amsoil exceeds in all these bar graphs, the margin between amsoil and the other oils next to it is a very small percentage. It's like saying i'll won't buy flavored water because it has 0.5grams of sugar compared to regular bottled water. The fact is that all motor oils have to meet certain standards, and a lot exceed them. Millions of people use regular oil and their cars last forever. Amsoil is good, sure, but necessary? Not really. Unless you plan to have your engine to 1 million miles.

 

I'd be curious to gain your insight as to which "half" of AMSOIL's marketing is misleading. I assume you have experience with the product?

The purpose of my post above was to in essence defend Mobil 1 and clearly state that it is a viable alternative for the consumer who wants a product that provides acceptable performance over a variety of tests, at a price the average customer can tolerate and is readily available at any discount mega-mart...there are better products out there and there are certainly worse products out there. I clearly stated the intent behind AMSOIL's use of the 4-ball wear test and the reason for the higher temperature parameter for the 0w-30 4-ball wear test (which is to dispel the myth that a light viscosity oil will fail to provide adequate wear protection). I also stated that one should not judge lubricant on just one performance indicator...rather, one should base his/her assessment on the overall performance across several performance indicators. And btw, the graph in question was taken in context from a larger article which talked about the multiple benefits of the Signature Series Oil

I agree with you that millions of people use petroleum motor oil and their engines survive for a very long time...but I believe there are clearly better alternatives to petroleum oil and AMSOIL happens to be one of them...it just depend on what you're looking to achieve. As you state, there are minimum standards that a lubricant must meet in order to be API certified...many high schools will also graduate students with a 2.0 GPA (or lower)...so just because a student passes doesn't mean everyone in the graduating class is at the same level. AMSOIL and other synthetics might cost more money than petroleum oil, and some people might fail to see the value in it....but to me it's worth every penny. I've used Syn lubes exclusively for about 35 years, and I've used AMSOIL for about 30 of those years. I also service vehicles as a hobby and sell a significant quantity of AMSOIL lubricants to customers each month throughout the US and Canada...have not had a dissatisfied customer yet...Audi's, BMW (including 7 series and M's), tons of Nissans, Cadillac CTS-V, Rousch Mustangs, WRX, Lexus, trucks, motorhomes, snowmobiles, motorcycles (Japanese, Harleys, Ducati), etc, etc...I also have several commercial and retail accounts who swear by the products.

The bottom line is that the 4-ball wear test is an industry recognized test to measure anti-wear properties of a lubricant; AMSOIL selected the severe high temp parameters to dispel the notion that a 0w-30 will fail to protect in severe conditions and to tout the performance of their additive package; that the performance of a motor oil must be considered across multiple performance indicators, not just one. We all have choices...choose what best meets your requirement and enjoy

 

^^
as a statistics minor, i know many ways you can manipulate data to show what you want it to show.

Mobil 1's response to wear tests: https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English..._Strength.aspx

From http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf, you see all the bar graphs depict Amsoil excelling at everything. If you read the actual numbers though, the margins are so small and insignificant. its all about graph manipulation:

TBN: Amsoil (12.2) vs M1EP (10.3) [ graph max is 12]
cP: Amsoil (4150) vs Quaker State (4602) [graph max is 8000]
4-ball: Amsoil (0.35) vs Castrol GTX (0.36) [really??? 0.01mm is such a difference that i would buy a $9 bottle of Amsoil vs a $2 bottle of Castrol GTX]

And then the saves money portion is crap. Who the hell is going to be sane enough to run a 25k mile OCI. I dont care how good your oil or filter is, nothing can filter that much sludge that long. most people drive in the city, so get that 25k and divide it by 2 at least. 12k miles on city driving before oil changes? Naw...

Like i said, Amsoil is a good oil, i'm sure. But the way they market their stuff to make other stuff look like just plain crap is just misleading. Take 30 seconds to read the bar graphs and you'll be laughing at the minute differences between the oil. As for dissatisfied customers, I've read on Honda forums of people putting in Amsoil ATF in their hondas when its supposedly Honda ATF compatible, and their trannies get busted, and then Amsoil doesn't replace the tranny.

As for experience with the product, if i put mobil 1 or Amsoil in my engine, will i notice any difference? highly unlikely. Will i notice any difference after 100k miles? highly unlikely either.

 

The Timken load test was also used for many years but as lubricants and the science has progressed it was retired except for testing grease and that is just to check whether Extreme Pressure additives actually exist in the formulation.

I've had several cars and most were traded in at 150k+ and none had oil issues when sold, I ran M1 and several other oils. What I'm trying to say is ANY oil today is fine provided you follow the manufactures guidelines, I don't know of ANY stories when using the correct oil for that type of engine produced a failure because of brand difference. Tribology has advanced so much that even the cheapest of oils will protect your engine good enough, I like insurance so I run M1 it makes me feel all fuzzy inside however I'm probably spending too much. As for Amsoil if they would stop this ridiclous over the top marketing I would try it, I've seen the UOA's for my engine type and the two best oils for the VQ35DE so far are M1 0W-40 and Amsoil SSO 5W-30.

One also has to understand that different engines work differently with oils, one type of oil might produce very good wear properties in your UOA but put that same oil in another engine and the results could be very different. That's why UOA should always be used if you plan to run extended oil changes otherwise your just driving in the dark.

 

Lol...as a stats minor, you have an odd way of saying,
"No, I have no experience with the product".

 

what does having experience with the product have to do with anything? i was pointing out the marketing strategy Amsoil uses in their graphs and anyone with HALF A BRAIN could figure out Amsoil isn't a magic oil that is 500x better than other oil.

and what experience could this product possibly bring me? my engines run fine, will adding Amsoil to my engine make my car fly or something? perhaps adding amsoil to my engine will make it not need gasoline! what quazy-retarded logic is that, i dont need experience with the product to lend an opinion.

 

Are you really a Colonel? Oh brother...this is the best I've seen

 

are you really a horse that can talk?

 

Good…I’m glad you’re a statistics minor so maybe you can help me understand the numbers. Let’s see…6 measurable performance categories, 11 popular oils tested using industry-recognized ASTM tests that are indicative of a lubricant’s performance and ability to perform for extended drain intervals. The tests can be duplicated and/or challenged by any one of the competitors. Remember, what we’re looking for is consistency.

Mobil 1 EP: tied for 1st in one category (pour point), one 2nd place finish, three 3rd place finishes and one 6th place finish (wear protection) behind virtually every other name brand synthetic oil and a petroleum based oil.

Castrol GTX: one 2nd place finish (Noack Volatility), one 3rd place finish, one 6th place finish, one 8th place finish, one 10th place finish, and one last place finish in ability to resist oxidation, a key indicator of an oil’s ability to resist chemical breakdown.

AMSOIL 10w-30: six 1st place finishes. You can’t get any more consistent than that.

And I have looked at the numbers and here’s what they show:

Thin Film Oxygen Uptake: Indicates an oil’s ability to resist chemical breakdown. Key for an extended drain oil. AMSOIL first place. AMSOIL outperformed second place Motorcraft oil by 25%, it beat third place Mobil 1 EP by 27.6% and it beat last place Castrol by 254%. Doesn’t sound very close to me

Noack Volatility: Measures an oil’s resistance to evaporation…the better the score, the less oil consumption, the cleaner the engine, improved fuel economy and another critical determinant of the oil’s ability to resist chemical breakdown for extended life. AMSOIL first place. Castrol GTX placed second, 20.7% worse than AMSOIL. Mobil 1 EP placed third, 43.8% worse than AMSOIL. Again, a pretty significant margin of victory.

Pour Point: Ability of an oil to flow on the coldest of days….and that’s what first brought me to synthetics when I lived in ND in the mid 70’s. Low pour point/quick oil flow will help an engine start and reduce wear on cold winter mornings…translates to extended engine life. AMSOIL and Mobil tied for first place at -54 deg F…9 deg lower than the next best oil (Valvoline synpower), 23 deg lower than Castrol and 27 degrees lower than last place Chevron Supreme.

Total Base Number: Ability of an oil to control acids. The higher the number, the more effective the oil is in suspending contaminants and reducing the corrosive effects of acids. This is another indicator of an oil’s ability to perform for extended drain intervals. In this test, AMSOIL scored 18% better than 2nd place M-1 EP, 51% better than 6th place Castrol and 74% better than last place Chevron.

Cold crank viscosity: Better scores enable an engine to turn over more easily and oil to flow to engine parts in cold temps. Quick lubrication translates to less engine wear. AMSOIL first place…second place Quaker State 11% higher/worse score than AMSOIL; Mobil 1 EP 13.7% worse, Castrol 57% worse and last place Motorcraft 66% thicker than AMSOIL for this simulation.

Wear Protection: Industry recognized 4-ball wear test which evaluates the protection provided by a lubricant under conditions of pressure and sliding motion in laboratory conditions. AMSOIL and Valvoline Syn Power tied for the best scores. Castrol GTX a very close third. Mobil 1 EP 25% off the mark and last place Trop Artic with a 37% worse score. This test shows competing products can rival AMSOIL’s performance in wear protection, and if that is your primary objective Valvoline or Castrol will serve you well over traditional drain intervals. But when looked at in conjunction with the Thin Film Oxygen Uptake, Volatility and TBN tests, it indicates AMSOIL will hold up better for extended drains. It just depends on your objective…

So aside from the scale used on the illustrations which you liken to an illusion, where’s the manipulation? You can’t argue with the numbers….are you saying they’re inaccurate? When a competitors product equals or rivals AMSOIL’s performance, it is reported as such. In the Gear Oil study AMSOIL recently published, some competing products surpassed AMSOIL in certain test categories, and it is reported as such. I don’t see how that is misleading.


On the surface one would have to extend their drain intervals in order to save money with AMSOIL. But for less than the cost of one trip with the family to your local Choke and Puke, you could be running a premium product in your car. I have to laugh…we spend tens of thousands of dollars on our vehicles then gripe about a few extra dollars for a premium product that may well pay you back over the long haul. Give me a break. For me it’s not about the few extra bucks it costs me to run AMSOIL I my vehicles….personal choice, but I wouldn’t use anything else even if it were free.

As you can see from the oil study, three of the six categories are indicators of an oils ability to perform for extended drains. AMSOIL excels in each of those categories. AMSOIL was introduced in 1972 as an extended drain (25,000 mile, 1-yr) oil. Do you actually think the company would be in business today, 37 years later, if their product did not perform as advertised? In addition to being very open about their performance data, AMSOIL has historically printed comparative data right on the labels of their products…how many other manufacturers would dare to do that?

I actually have several customers who run their vehicles for the full length of AMSOIL’s recommendations and are very satisfied with the performance. I personally ran one of my cars for over 3-years/36,000 miles on one oil change while using a by-pass filter and oil analysis…I only drained it because I thought that perhaps I had contaminated the oil with a solvent. I also registered a commercial account who installed this oil in over 100 sheriff dept patrol cars…10K oil analysis and filter changes with a Wix filter and 20K drain intervals…maintenance backlog was eliminated and they’re saving money compared to an oil change every couple weeks…crap???

Since AMSOIL is specifically formulated for extended drain intervals, it runs clean and doesn’t produce the same amount of “sludge” and other contaminants that other oils will. Concerning the filters, AMSOIL Ea filters contain a full synthetic media that will last for the full duration of an extended oil change. They’re not cheap, but they are unquestionably the highest performing oil filters on the market today in terms of capacity, efficiency and longevity…

It’s hard for me to make a determination on this without all the details but I will offer a few comments.

First, Honda has had a lot of issues with their transmissions. We had a ‘02 Honda which we drove for over 6 years. 2002 was the first year for the 5-speed automatic and Honda was having transmission failures right and left due to a design issue which resulted in inadequate lubrication/overheating. Honda issued a recall to inspect and replace the transmissions as necessary. I ran AMSOIL motor oil and ATF in the vehicle and our vehicle passed the inspection and we never did have any issues with it…in fact my shift quality was better with AMSOIL in the transmission. Transmission failure on this particular vehicle was described as inevitable regardless of fluid used, and I have read on various Honda forums where other AMSOIL users gave AMSOIL ATF credit for delaying transmission failure on these vehicles.

Concerning AMSOIL’s warranty, AMSOIL warrants that its products will perform as advertised and that they will not cause mechanical damage if used in accordance with AMSOIL’s recommendations. AMSOIL will cover the consumer if their oil is found to be the cause of the problem. There is also a process for filing a claim and it requires that the claimant submit an oil sample to AMSOIL for analysis. Since Honda was having transmission issues, its very likely that the failures were attributed to the transmission design and not caused by the lubricant…so AMSOIL’s warranty would obviously not apply. Another possible scenario is that the claimant did not follow the process so the claim was denied. Again, hard to say for sure without all the facts.

For what its worth, I have a customer with a ’93 Nissan whose engine and transmission I converted to AMSOIL when it was new and turned 1,000 miles. That vehicle is running today with about 250K on it…absolutely no transmission (or engine) problems

I think you’re telling me that you’ve never used Mobil 1 or AMSOIL and that you have no personal experience with it. This is not very scientific, but I have a lot of customers who can tell an immediate difference with AMSOIL in their engines ...common comments are that the engines run quieter and more freely. People who try the products generally like them…I pick up new customers almost every day and I have a better than 90% customer retention rate. So that must say something.

I’m not trying to convince you of anything. If your favorite oil is included in the comparison test, use it for what it’s worth…forget about AMSOIL. If you think the test is invalid, don’t use the data. I’m willing to bet that the data you will find in that oil comparison study is more information than you will be able to obtain from the manufacturers of the competing products….I know, I’ve tried and they tell me the performance data is not available…instead, one major oil company actually asked me how many race cars I saw with the name of their product on them…that should answer my questions. My response was “Many, but all that tells me is that you have a huge advertising budget”. And btw, just because a company sponsors a race car doesn’t necessarily mean that product is being used.

I don’t bash other products and find that most, if not all of the criticism about AMSOIL comes from people who have never tried it. If you don’t feel AMSOIL is for you, don’t buy it…it’s that simple.

Priceless

 

Because is was a simple, direct question, that you obviously dodged.

And now you're trying to dodge it yet again.

 

I don't understand the logic at all. So your telling us that you first try everything before you can form your own opinions or conclusions on a given product? Geez just going to the grocery store must be a real b***h for you, I surely don't have the resources to "experience" every product in the marketplace before I decide to spend my well earned money.

 

No, but I won't tell you that Brand X spaghetti sauce tastes like crap until after I've tried it myself.

 

The question wasn't if you had an opinion.
The question was had you used the product.

What part is difficult for you?

 

Ha. Why all this arguing back and forth in the house?

If you have your choice of oil and want to stck with it, go on. I am changing to full synthetic this month and I might go with the M1 EP I already have or place an order for my Amsoil and use.

Whatever anybody is running in their engines, good, as long as you feel comfortable.

If you are like me, who has done some research on what I would like to use, well, do that and settle. Just like I have decided to settle with Amsoil. I will start using it probably this month and will stick with it until I ever get a complain about it. If I never get a complain, well, its Amsoil for the life of my engine.

 

Hey talkinghorse, any ETA when amsoil is going to release an oil filter for the VQ35DE Maxima?

 

Well I have to agree however if your research tells you it will taste like crap that typically makes my decision.

 

AMSOIL does offer an oil filter for the VQ35DE, but it gets a little bit fuzzy.

As you will see from AMSOIL's on-line application guide, AMSOIL lists an EaO application for models up through 2006...every Maxima, and most Nissans take either the EaO-12 or the EaO-13...these two filters are identical except the EaO-13 is .825" longer than the 12. Begining in 2007 AMSOIL lists only the Wix 51358 for Maximas.

The 51358 is 2.782" long...thats .2" longer than the EaO-12 and .62" shorter than the EaO-13. The by-pass valve calibration on the 51358 is set for 8 psid, and the EaO-12/13 filters are from 8-11 psid...the higher by-pass setting will force more oil through the filter before allowing dirty oil to by-pass the element, but the down side is that oil flow could be slightly impaired in low temperature or high-demand conditons. Burst pressure on the canister is also lower for the 51358 which in understandable considering the lower bypass valve setting.

I called Nissan and the parts guy told me that the 04-08 maximas can use either the OEM 9E000 or the 65F0C interchangeably...the 9E000 cross references to the AMSOIL EaO-13 and the shorter 65F0C cross references to the Wix 51358. Nissan lists only the 65F0C for the 2009 models....maybe that's for clearance reasons and not mechanical reasons...I just don't know.

If you want to be ultra conservative, use the filter that is listed for the vehicle. If you don't believe the difference in the calibration of the by-pass valve is that big of a deal, then the EaO-12 or the EaO-13 will fit.

Recommend you talk with your dealer and see what they tell you about using the 9E000 (or equivalent) on your year car...if they confirm it is an acceptable substitute, then either the EaO-12 or EaO-13 will work.

 

So it seems like the EaO-13 will work for sure and the -12 may work but I should verify in case of a clearance issue? Thanks for the info I assume the same filter(s) will work in my 370Z also.

I might as well purchase from you since you did this research for me and support this forum very much appreciated! Please PM me with your purchase instructions.

Thanks!

 

Just because you haven't had experience with a product doesn't mean you can't form an opinion about it nor that it is somehow invalidated.

 

The EaO-12 will "fit" for sure since it is the shortest of the bunch...the 13 model is about .8" longer than the EaO-12. AMSOIL lists the Wix 51358 (with the different by-pass valve calibration) for your 370Z and 09 Maxima and that is sized between the EaO-12 and EaO-13.

What filter are you using now with the M-1...an OEM, M-1 or another brand? I can cross reference it if you give me the p/n.

How do you like the 370Z? There's one that has passed me several times on my way home from work...looks sharp! Last time I was at the Nissan Dealer they had a GT-R on the showroom...they said they've sold several this year...nice ride, but expensive!

Sent you a PM as requested...pls let me know if I can help.

 

I'm using the OEM filter and the factory fill oil as my Max had the first 3750 scheduled change already and it's now around 6600 miles, I'm going to go with Amsoil OW-30 and filters because of the great UOA results I'm reading over at the 350Z.com forum.

My Z only has 1900 miles as I only find time to drive it on the weekends, I love the car it's a lot of fun and it's unreal how many people wave, give me the thumbs up or flag me down to ask me if this is the new Z. I had a ZO6 before and I never got much more than dirty looks but with the Z everyone is my friend or wants to be friends with my car... LOL

 

Here are some interesting oil tests you guys might find useful:

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

 

Yeah this test is garbage. StreetCommodores.com had to recant the test as they found out afterward that the old "Falex Lubricity Tester / Timken OK" test test hasn't been used in 30 years for oil and it's only used to test grease not oil today.

Here is the actual recant from the next issue after first publication the month before:

"OILS AIN'T OILS – The post script

If there's one thing we try and do here at Street Commodores, it's give you, our readers un-biased info on which products are good, and which ones suck. There's so much BS marketing guff out there, that it can be tough to nut out which products can walk the walk – so that's where we come in, doing our best to sort the Holdens from the Lada Nivas.

A few months back (issue 108), you might remember we did an oil comparison. At the time, we thought it was a bloody good thing, and we don't mind telling you we were pretty proud to publish an article that basically bagged a heap of big name brands. You see, at Street Commodores, we can't, and won't be bought. We like to play things straight. And in the name of playing things straight, we'd like to tell you what has happened since that story went to print.

Basically, we made a few oil companies very cross, and some others quite happy; but we've also been educated some more on engine oils, and being the type of publication that we are, we wanted to fill you in on it. The information we've learned since then suggests the test we performed may be irrelevant. Some sources have advised us that the test we used would have been better served testing some of our favourite greases rather than the engine oils we commonly use on our street cars. Sure, we did the test with the best intentions, with a level playing field for each oil and no preconceptions as to who would perform better than another, but when, and if, we mess up, we like to think that we're man enough to set the record straight.

So keep an eye out in an upcoming issue real soon for an in-depth look at what makes up the contents of your oil, what to look for when choosing one, why certain ingredients are so important and whether the test we used was irrelevant for testing oils.


Otto"

 

Wow... very nice!

thanks for clearing that up.