Okay so I change my oil and filter often. Especially for synthetic, but I was just wondering what kind of oil and filters everyone uses?

I generally use Mobil 1 with a fram filter, BUT I got a deal on some royal purple and a K&N filter.. Is it worth the hype?

Ill find out here in a week when it comes in the mail

 

How often is "often"?

 

Amsoil with a good oil filter(Amsoil, PureOne, Nissan Japan, Mobil1, Wix) is awesome

 

well i am using mobile1 only because i am getting a deal from the local oil place. Full synthetic 5w for only 40 bucks. Of course off the books, hahaha. I have not had a problem

 

Amsoil with pure one filter. Stays nice and clean. But I dont drive my car very much soit doesnt get that dirty anyway.

 

I used to run Mobil 1 Syn. oil and filter but I recently switched to royal purple w/ M1 filter and I'm very happy with the RP oil. I can definatly feel more power than with M1 I was not expecting that at all and was very suprised, I always thought that RPs clamis were just marketing gimicks but they definatly are not. After switching and feeling the added power I did a little research and found this.

http://www.crownmycar.com/video/hors...v-royal-purple

 

if you are using Mobil 1 with a fram filter you are seriously cutting your mobil 1's capabilities short.

Fram filters have been advised by EVERYONE to be avoided at all costs. There have been plenty of horror stories of paper filter material floating around in engines. Get a Mobil 1 filter as well, and if you can't afford it, a K&N works just as well.

 

2500 miles or so. I have switched to royal purple a k&n filer.

Good to know not to use fram.

 

Wow that is pointless. Good oil with a good filter = 7k+

When I used German Castrol I would do 8-10k intervals

 

SuperTech & chevron dino (till last oil change) and OCI was 5K, now on ST syn with a OCI of 7.5K. Also use Pennzoil Platinum for another vehicle.

Napa Gold oil filters.

 

Pennzoil Platinum is really good. I did use Mobil 1 until I found PP.

 

I'll be going back to german castrol for my next oil change. $27 for 5qts of 0w30 GC and a k&n oil filter.
On castrol GTX now to break in the engine...

 

pls change oil before 7k,,, when my co. had mgt cars and changed the oil at 4-5k we had no cam chain issues,, once they went to 7-8 k (for cost reductions) the tensions became worn in some engines letting the chain become noisy at even 100k miles.

 

Where can you find the German Castrol I thought they stopped importing it?

 

autozone stocks it at $7 a pop...

 

Just look out every few weeks and they will have castrol on sale with a filter for under 30 bucks

 

When I was changing my own oil, I was using Castrol High Mileage. In the past I've also used Amsoil. It was great, but I was having to change the filter twice for every oil change (since they didn't make long lasting filters for my car). Since the filter's the hardest part of changing the oil, I switched to Castrol.

Why wasn't Castrol in the poll? Anything I should be aware of?

 

The green stuff and the Made in Germany is on the back of the bottle?

Like these pictures?

http://home.comcast.net/~dsmphotos/gc/gc.html

 

It is no longer green but it will say European Formula on the bottle and it only comes in 0w-30

 

^ yup....................

 

i use Castrol Syntec, since ive had my 3rd gen i used the standard stuff like the prev. owner used and everytime i went for a oil change, even under the 5000k/whatever months, my oil was terrible and eventually i needed a engine flush. Since ive used the Castrol Syntec ive had alot less problems.

Basically now my 3rd gen gets everything good, prev. owner took awesome care of it but didnt go overboard with stuff like i am

 

Well, since i work at valvoline i happen to use Valvoline maxlife Full synthetic on my every oil change.

 

Not the same this is actually made in the US... Not the German make as I suspected.

 

They changed from the green tag like 3-4 years ago. Since then it has been a yellow euro formula tag. It say made in germany on the bottle.

edit

here I went out and took pics for you.

 

Great thanks for the clarification!

 

My Other is Castrol GTX 5w-30. I use either Mobil1 or K&N Oil Filters.

 

Mobil1 oil and filter for me. When I took out the oil pan to fix my car's oil leak back in January everyting looked nice and clean on the inside.

I might try out the Royal Purple for my next oil change in November if I have the money or I'll keep going with Mobil1.

 

I use Mobil 1 oil and Napa Gold filters

I generally go 5000+ miles on a change since I live down a dirt road and only drive about 15 miles a day.

 

AMSOIL Signature Series 0w-30 and Ea oil and air filters.

 

Same for me.....!

 

Royal Purple has A special $50 bucks for five quarts and A RP filter at pep boys.....best power wise or Amsoil

 

that is hardly a bargin as 5 quarts of M1EP is $26 at walmart and a M1 filter is $12 at autozone.

 

I don't know why you push the EP, that is the worst M1 on the market and has proven via UOA to not perform well in this specific engine...

M1 OW-40 should be the only M1 you put in a VQ.

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...l_1_0W-40.aspx

Sign-up and read the UOA's for yourself...

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html

Oh and RP performs just as bad in the VQ...

 

Well, you scare me with this for I am running M1 EP as my first choice for my first time using synthetic. But when I get ready to change it at 7500, I will go Amsoil 100% 5W30. It will be Amsoil all the way, except it disappoints me.

 

i use mobil 1 oil and filter, even though k&n oil filters are the same as mobil 1, made by the same company just one is white the other is black.

 

not performing well in this specific engine? you realize the 350z pushes the VQ35 differently than the Maxima. Read the Oil FAQ and you'll see the Mobil 1 5W-30 as one of the most recommended oils. UOAs from Maxima VQ35s have been positive.

 

I use Mobil 1 Fully synthetic oil with the Mobil 1 Oil Filter.

 

M1 but not the EP product..... Aero isn't that much different between the cars and surely not enough to impact the results of a UOA and your OCI, the issue with the VQ35DE specifically is oil shear this engines slices and dices the viscosity molecules for lunch thus dropping your viscosity between OCI's.

M1 is an excellent product specifically the 0W-40 euro formula which happens to be the actual factory fill for many OEM's which you know that but it's not the EP... And is the recommended M1 on that thread.

The EP product is dangerous IMHO because you have people running it for 15k blindly never performing a UOA which people are doing....

 

Don't be scared get educated. Your fine with M1 EP just don't leave it in forever i.e. more than 7.5k unless you get a UOA. It might not be the best however it's not going to harm anything.

You can get a UOA from this company: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

And you'll get a free kit to return the oil sample and the UOA is very easy to read plus join the thread below and you can post your UOA and discuss your results by looking at facts instead of very biased opinions. I have to laugh I've actually read some people in this org "look" at their oil to determine their OCI.

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html

Also if you do switch to Amsoil I recommend you get the 0W-30 SSO this weight will perform better in the winter and still provide the same summer protection.

Cheers!

 

Been running the Amsoil 0w-30 in my 98 SE (currently has 130k miles on original engine) for about 6 years now, first with the K&N oil filter, then to the Amsoil filter for the past few years. Works awesome in the freezing temps during our winters in Idaho, as well as the hot summers. Change it once a year and saves me money and time. Engine's in perfect shape and runs awesome.