Based on data compiled and posted at my350z it appears the are several good, readily available VQ35DE oil options as shown by the table below. Since this information is more recent than the maxima.org recommendations, I generally focus on these.


My350z VQ35DE UOAs

Based on the table and the org's experiences, what oil would you choose for 4k mile oil change intervals out of the following:

-Pennzoil Platinum 5W30
-Mobil 1 0W40
-Mobil 1 5W30 Extended Protection
-Mobil 1 5W40 Turbo Diesel Truck
-Quaker State Q-Horsepower 5W30

I cannot find much, or any, application specific information for the M1 TDT or M1 EP. Also, I have been using Castrol Syntec 0W30 (GC) and M1 5W30 (to consume left-overs) for past oil changes.

Not by coincidence, all the oil choices are on sale at Advanced Auto Parts; Advance Auto Parts Oil Change Specials.

 

Stick with German Castrol 5-6k intervals. Use a WIX/PureOne/Amsoil/Mobil1 filter.

If you are boosted 0w-40 would be nice.

 

I'd like to stick with GC, but would like to save some money with one of these oils (for comparable performance).

Regarding filters, I use Bosch Premium, NAPA Gold (Wix), Purolator PureOne, Mobil 1 or K&N in the larger sizes.

 

One of the best bangs for the buck will be using a Wix and PP 5w-30. (0w-30 if you can find) that should be 5k+ interval

 

+10000

 

I am leaning towards 5W30 PP or 0W40 M1 as they are currently a great deal (AAP link from the first post):

 

Great chart, but these sample sizes are incredibly small (4 or less) It's certainly a start, but leaves alot of questions.

What's the OCI?

What is the average mileage on each of these engines?

What are the driving conditions and habits (dusty, aggressive, highway, etc)

Certainly worth growing this table, and perhaps some Maxima's can submit data for this graph too.

 

While the table does have few samples, in the sense of available, stock engine UOAs, it represents a wealth of information.

Regarding OCI, the values given are normalized per thousand miles driven. Since I 'm not a tribologist, I don't know the efficacy of the presented relationship, were wear is typically linear.

The other pieces of information would helpful (use, environment, engine MY, Controlling those features in testing (or collecting enough data to be highly selective) would take considerable effort and cost, and likely never occurs by an end-user (at least for automobiles).

So, my question, has anyone here noticed a difference in use between Mobil 1 0W40, Castrol Syntec 0W30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W30? I am especially concerned about oil consumption as I believe my engine consumes some, but haven't tracked it close enough to know the rate. I suspect it consumed little (<0.5 qt) with GC, and consumed more (~1.2 qt) with 5W30 M1.

 

I have used Amsoil ASL, GC, PP, QS and Mobil 1 and have not detected any difference in burning/usage. I typically add 1/8 qt. twice during my normal 5K OCI.

 

Did you use the same viscosity oils? Or, what viscosity oils were used?

Thanks.

 

For the good of those following this thread, Pep Boys now has two good performing oils:

-Castrol GTX 5W30
-Castrol Syntec 0W30 (GC)



Time for me to get a few more oil changes of GC rather than try PP or M1 0W40.

 

Most were 5W-30, GC was obviously 0W-30.

 

im sticking mobil 1 5w-30

random question...why is the M1 filter so small?

B

 

Every brand has the same size filters (which is why they have different models)

So doesnt matter if it is nissan brand or fram they are similar in dimensions.

 

ok...i just bought one and pulled it out of the box and was shocked...from what i remember it looks to be half the size of the one on my 4th gen

also whats the difference between the M1 5w-30 and the M1 5w-30 high mileage?

B

 

My UOAs have actually been posted in the my350z thread...

I agree though, we need something like this. Esp. for us oil-burners.

 

I'd be willing to get an analysis done to contribute. I've been meaning to do it for a while now.

 

There are two filter sizes which fit the VQ35DE with the same bypass pressures. Examples:

Purolator:

PL14612 length: 2.93 in.
PL14610 length: 3.52 in.

Common properties:
Thread: M20-1.5
OD: 2.69 in.
Relief Valve Pressure: 14-18 psig

Mobil:

M1-108 length: 2.51 in
M1-110 length: 3.35 in

Common properties:
Thread: M20-1.5
OD: 2.65 in

I always go with the larger available filter.

 

im doing a 5k interval and have already switch from regular to full syn so would i need to worry about the larger filter or should i be fine with the shorter one?

B

 

Either one should be fine for that interval. The larger ones will likely hold more crap, which would be good for longer OCIs, and slightly increase oil capacity.

 

ok good. i really didnt want to have to take it back

B

 

VQ30 filter is bigger and it fits on the 35

 

I just used my last OEM 9E000... need to find more.

 

I thought those were made in China and of unknown quality (paper endcaps); http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1564936; http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=131425.

Though it does seem these were also made in both the USA and Japan.

 

oh wow based on that chart im either going castrol syntec or penzoil platinum. Looks like Castrol has SIGNIFICANTLY improved their syntec oil from before. guess the new ads wern't BS.

 

For sake of discussion are we on the Maxima ORG going to start a used engine oil analysis thread?

I just made the commitment of my own oil changes using Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 and look forward to sending off an oil sample for analysis. 197,900 miles on the clock so it should be a hilarious report.

Also, being an oil change novice, any pointers or tips on refilling the oil properly? This includes thinking with your dipstick.

Note: Autozone has a oil change special running, $28 for 5+ qts of Castrol Syntec with a Fram tough guard filter.

 

i too use the larger sized filter from the 3.0LVQ engine on my 3.5...I just started using Royal Purple and decided to go with the RP extended life filter this time around...I check my oil every weekend and noticed that now, with the oil having 3000 miles on it, that it is much lighter (cleaner) than it usually is at 3000 miles when I was using the OEM VQ30 filter....anyway...I am going for 4-5K this time around (usually always change at 3K) and will send in another UOA to see how things are wearing with the longer interval (for the record..I have always used Castrol Syntec before....but I have gotta say that RP oil rocks!)

 

im due for an oil change now and bought royal purple and the rp oil filter, should be good oil

 

Consider using Blackstone labs to analyze your current oil before going to the Royal Purple, and then get another analysis done after having Royal Purple for 2 maybe 3 drain and fill cycles.

Would be good data.

 

I have always used castrol GTX on my turbo vq30, even n/a. Now with built 3.5 I was still using castrol gtx during the break in process. I have recently started using Rottela T6 5W40. Waiting for my 2nd blackstone lab results.

 

I just did another today OC, will be sending in my second UOA for Nissan's Ester Oil.

 

GC 0w30.

That stuff rocks for Nissan engines. I run it in my fathers' VQ30 as well. Runs like new.

 

I'd be interested in your results b/c I'm running the same oil w/ the PL14610 filter. I have 114k on my 03.

 

SuperTech Syn 5W30 + Napa Gold filter

7.5K OCI!!! Works like a gem for me!

 

I'll probably change my oil near the end of March and do the used oil analysis.

 

Pour it in the hole in the top of the engine?

 

 

I was referring to accurately measuring the drained oil, accurately pouring the proper amount of new oil then accurately measuring the oil level.

That reply won't cut it. I'm talking about my hatred for the oil level gauge being covered in oil after adding new oil then starting the engine. How long of a wait is needed before looking at the oil level gauge? Oh sure let's start the engine with a questionable amount of oil in it and almost play Russian roulette.

@ kgallerie so all you do is pour in new engine oil and nothing else?

Aside from catching the drained engine oil in a 5+ quart container with the measurement gauge on the bottle so you can judge how many quarts of new oil to add, is there any other tricks?

 

When it comes to refilling the oil, yeah......what else are you thinking that you might do??? For a full oil change, I drain the old oil, remove the oil filter, let it drain completely, reinstall the drain plug, install the new oil filter, refill oil. Not really sure what else there is to do for an oil change?

I've changed my oil so many times that if I let it completely drain, I know that adding 4 1/4 quarts fills it up (i figured it out after doing about 2 changes). After I add the oil, I wait 5-10 minutes, pull the dip stick, wipe it off with a paper towel, reinsert the stick for a second or 2, remove it again and check the level. And I normally check it the next day.

You really dont need to be using measurement guages, beakers and test tubes like Dr. Bunsen to get it right. If its slightly above or slightly below the max line, it wont make any difference.

Maybe this will help you out. On the dipstick, the difference between the max and min lines is about a quart. If its at the min line, add a quart. If its about half way up, add 1/2 quart.

 

Seems I was being impatient when adding the new oil, good to know it helps to add oil then wait 10 minutes before starting the engine.

Darn no test tubes, beakers or flasks needed? But I get it, I over complicate things because the FSM plainly says its 4 1/4 quarts for draining the engine oil with filter change. I just need a better way to measure that 4.25 quarts.

Thanks again, I'll be offline chewing on my foot now.