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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 08:38 PM
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Synthetic Oil

If I use synthetic oil, what difference will I notice. Does the engine sound smoother? Is it quieter?

Matt
Old Apr 27, 2002 | 08:47 PM
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my opinion is that it does make the engine run smoother and quieter. i got better fuel mileage and its less wear and tear in the long run.
Old Apr 27, 2002 | 09:02 PM
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Originally posted by sloppymax
my opinion is that it does make the engine run smoother and quieter. i got better fuel mileage and its less wear and tear in the long run.

how many miles you running on it. 3000 or more.
Old Apr 27, 2002 | 09:46 PM
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all I have to say...

is this
http://www.adpub.com/tim/oil_max1.jpg
(this is with heavy/short trip city driving, still below wear)

and do a search here.
Old Apr 28, 2002 | 10:49 AM
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Originally posted by sloppymax
my opinion is that it does make the engine run smoother and quieter. i got better fuel mileage and its less wear and tear in the long run.
Mobil 1 or Castrol Synthetic..?
Old Apr 28, 2002 | 08:56 PM
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I use Mobil 1 every 3000 and it run great.
Old Apr 28, 2002 | 09:10 PM
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All I know is I didnt fell like doing it myself..., I took it to OILMAX, and all the Honda Boys gathered around and STARED at my Maxx's engine. They kept pointing at the intake, one guy spotted the Maxspeeds, and the other guy was looking at my muffler ...
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 01:18 AM
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Originally posted by kloogy
All I know is I didnt fell like doing it myself..., I took it to OILMAX, and all the Honda Boys gathered around and STARED at my Maxx's engine. They kept pointing at the intake, one guy spotted the Maxspeeds, and the other guy was looking at my muffler ...
I took my Max to JiffyLube for the first oil-change (synthetic)... the guys there were going CRAZY with my Max! They couldn't stop asking questions & checking everything out... they said wow, you have K&N filter... Oh yeah, they had a field day when I said: "you can play around with the navigation if you want" Too bad they won't be seing me again (well maybe for ATF change)

I just changed my oil this weekend. Fully Synthetic Royal Purple Racing Oil #21. $8/qt. Also got a Fram oil filter (damn K&N filter orders backed up) and bought a MAGNAFORCE OIL FILTER MAGNET I don't notice a real difference (other than my mind "tricking" me that it runs smoother) However, I haven't heard the dreaded timing chain "crunching" at startups! It's only been a few days, but I hope it stays this way!!! I'll keep you guys posted w/my experiences with this synthetic oil.

G
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 07:15 AM
  #9  
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Originally posted by 02MaXiMa_GLE

However, I haven't heard the dreaded timing chain "crunching" at startups! It's only been a few days, but I hope it stays this way!!!
What is the timing chain "crunching"? Is it something all the 5th gen engines do?

What causes it?

Thanks for any information!

BuddyWh
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 08:01 AM
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Originally posted by BuddyWh


What is the timing chain "crunching"? Is it something all the 5th gen engines do?

What causes it?

Thanks for any information!

BuddyWh
Its a lovely little noise that usually occurs when the car hasn't been driven for a while in cold weather. It kind of sounds like a clunking noise right after the engine turns over and then you won't hear it again. I think the consensus was that it has to do with the timing chain being deprived of oil under such conditions. Drive several times a day and you'll probably never notice it. It also seems to occur less with synthetic oil sometimes.
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 11:20 AM
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IMO there is no BEST oil. It all boils down to how you drive it and how often you change your oil. As far as bang for the buck goes, the Superflo premium (gold bottles) and Valvoline Durablend (blue bottles) offer the most. I could get a box of 6 quarts for $13. I religiously use either the Bosch or Mobil 1 oil filter. I'm a fluid freak though, I change my oil on a monthly basis when I can and do ATF flushes every year. So far everything's holding up, my Q has seen nearly 200k of hard Boston driving and I'm on the original motor and tranny. My sister's Camry went 280k on original motor seeing Superflo oil changes every 2k miles and on occasion some good AMSOIL.
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 11:23 AM
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question = with syn....do u guys change oil every 5000 instead of 3000? since it lasts longer?

4 buck / qt for every 3k is kinda expensive.
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 11:26 AM
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keep in mind...

whatever oil you choose, should remain easy to flow at low temp. The VQ needs as much top-end protection as you can give it on startup. Once again, my reason for going syn. (and I did the oil analysis to verify this).

Once the engine is warm, I agree that most oils are equal protection for 3000 mile changes under schedule 1 driving.
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 11:31 AM
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I don't want to sound like a Superflo or Valvoline salesmen but both those synth oils perform as well as the mobil for a third the price and half in the Valvoline's case. It's been scientifically proven that the Superflo has better wear protection than the Mobil 1. You can try doing searches on the web for independent research comparisons.

$4 per quart is a bit expensive but it's only a minor nuisance compared to spending $3k for a new motor because you neglected to change your oil often enough and with quality oil. Besides, you should see how much they have to pay for good oil in Japan and Europe. Some of those guys are obsessive-compulsive and spend $16 a quart on Motul 600 oil that they change 6 times a year. Ever heard of Omega or Impul performance oils? Some of those Japenese street racers swear by it and shell out $200 for a 5-quart drum!! OUCH!!
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 12:15 PM
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I've seen so many conflicting reports....

I gave up on those. Just make sure whatever you choose has a good cold pour number. And if you *REALLY* care, since all of our driving conditions are different, spend the $18 for a Blackstone test. I plan on doing one every 30K miles.
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 09:31 PM
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question = with syn....do u guys change oil every 5000 instead of 3000? since it lasts longer?
Amsoil makes an oil with 7500 mile change frequency. Synthetics are designed for longer than 3000 mile change frequency...


Heat and oxidation are the main enemies of lubricant basestocks - especially of the contaminants in conventional basestocks. Once a lubricant has begun to break down, it must be replaced so that the vehicle is not damaged by lack of lubrication or chemical attack. However, since synthetic oils are designed from pure, uniform synthetic basestocks, they contain no contaminants or unstable molecules which are prone to thermal and oxidative break down.
Moreover, because of their uniform molecular structure, synthetic lubricants operate with less friction than petroleum oils which have the non-uniform molecular structure discussed earlier. The result is better heat control, and less heat means less stress to the lubricant. Thus, synthetic oils can be used safely for much longer drain intervals than conventional lubricants. In fact, AMSOIL synthetic oils have been guaranteed for 25,000 miles or one year since 1972. Red Line Oil also recommends long drain intervals of 10,000 to 18,000 miles.

You might ask why other synthetic oil manufacturers are not recommending extended oil drains for their synthetics. The answer is really very simple: money. They are afraid that if they recommend longer drain intervals, they won't sell enough oil - petroleum oil, that is.

You see, petroleum oil is their golden goose, and has been for years. The only reason large oil companies produce a synthetic oil is because somebody else did it first (AMSOIL), and they must please the small (but growing) percentage of the population which has already decided that synthetics are better and won't purchase anything else.

Petroleum oil is where the money is. With recommended oil drains of only 3,000 miles, many people are changing their oil 5 to 8 times per year. If everyone suddenly switched over to synthetics, they would begin to realize that it is possible to go 10,000 to 25,000 miles or more without an oil change (depending upon the oil). This is a scary thought for large oil companies who depend upon regular oil changes for their business.

http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/memb...er/index.shtml
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 10:09 PM
  #17  
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but...

depending on your driving conditions, you still may need to change at 3-4K.

again, my oil is fine but still needs to be changed.

http://www.adpub.com/tim/oil_max1.jpg

and that is a brand new air filter at 15K. Just all short trip city driving.

I advocate syn, but dont suggest extended drains without the backup of reports for *your* own car.
Old Apr 29, 2002 | 11:46 PM
  #18  
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U guyz are lucky tho...
i went to change my oil at the dealer since none of the local shops know how, and it cost ... (drumroll).... 75 bones PLUS tax!!!!
ouch..
i looked at the invoice, and my little bimmer (325) takes 7, read 7!!! quarts of oil... holy crap. (luckily they are only scheduled every 15,000 miles... and the scheduled ones are free... unlike the after breakin one i got for 75 bones...
Old Apr 30, 2002 | 06:38 AM
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That's one of the things I really like about German cars, well, BMWs and Mercedes, their huge oil capacity

DW

Originally posted by big bad jon
U guyz are lucky tho...
i went to change my oil at the dealer since none of the local shops know how, and it cost ... (drumroll).... 75 bones PLUS tax!!!!
ouch..
i looked at the invoice, and my little bimmer (325) takes 7, read 7!!! quarts of oil... holy crap. (luckily they are only scheduled every 15,000 miles... and the scheduled ones are free... unlike the after breakin one i got for 75 bones...
Old Apr 30, 2002 | 06:53 AM
  #20  
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Originally posted by 02MaXiMa_GLE


I took my Max to JiffyLube for the first oil-change (synthetic)... the guys there were going CRAZY with my Max! They couldn't stop asking questions & checking everything out... they said wow, you have K&N filter... Oh yeah, they had a field day when I said: "you can play around with the navigation if you want" Too bad they won't be seing me again (well maybe for ATF change)

I just changed my oil this weekend. Fully Synthetic Royal Purple Racing Oil #21. $8/qt. Also got a Fram oil filter (damn K&N filter orders backed up) and bought a MAGNAFORCE OIL FILTER MAGNET I don't notice a real difference (other than my mind "tricking" me that it runs smoother) However, I haven't heard the dreaded timing chain "crunching" at startups! It's only been a few days, but I hope it stays this way!!! I'll keep you guys posted w/my experiences with this synthetic oil.

G
Royal Purple Racing Oil is a really BAD idea for a daily driver. Please do not go over 3k miles with this oil. Extended drain intervals are not possible with the "racing" oil due to their additive package which is designed for short track use and not everyday driving.

Also, take the Fram oil filter off of your vehicle immediately. It is garbage. Buy a STP ($3), Bosch ($5), or Mobile 1 filter ($11) depending on what your budget can handle.
Old Apr 30, 2002 | 07:04 AM
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Originally posted by Sopdadope
I don't want to sound like a Superflo or Valvoline salesmen but both those synth oils perform as well as the mobil for a third the price and half in the Valvoline's case. It's been scientifically proven that the Superflo has better wear protection than the Mobil 1. You can try doing searches on the web for independent research comparisons.


Since you are in tune with this research, I would like to see some links that go into this in more detail, along with a "baseline" analysis of both oils that describe what elements make up each oil and the initial TBN value. Obviously based on your comments, Valvoline Durablend should kick Mobil 1's butt in the TBN measurement. But I'll bet one of my Maximas that a blended oil doesn't have the TBN value of a full synthetic.

Based upon actual oil analysis results, a blended oil offers ZERO advantages over a good quality dino oil. It's a waste of money. Until someone proves that to me by going 10k or more on a synthetic blend, I'll stand by this statement. The one person who has gone over 7k here on Castrol Syntec Blend and a Fram oil filter had some really poor oil analysis results.

$4 per quart is a bit expensive but it's only a minor nuisance compared to spending $3k for a new motor because you neglected to change your oil often enough and with quality oil. Besides, you should see how much they have to pay for good oil in Japan and Europe. Some of those guys are obsessive-compulsive and spend $16 a quart on Motul 600 oil that they change 6 times a year. Ever heard of Omega or Impul performance oils? Some of those Japenese street racers swear by it and shell out $200 for a 5-quart drum!! OUCH!!
That is indicative of the racing type additive packages that are used in these oils which necessitates more frequent changes. Such oils are DESIGNED to break down quicker as they are not intended for everyday driving use. Since we in the states don't get to do 140MPH on a consistent basis, the oil needed for driving here is going to be different.
Old Apr 30, 2002 | 07:09 AM
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If anyone would actually like to educate themself on this, go here:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....threadid=10060
Old Apr 30, 2002 | 09:23 PM
  #23  
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depending on your driving conditions, you still may need to change at 3-4K.

again, my oil is fine but still needs to be changed.

http://www.adpub.com/tim/oil_max1.jpg

and that is a brand new air filter at 15K. Just all short trip city driving.

I advocate syn, but dont suggest extended drains without the backup of reports for *your* own car.
There's quite a bit of info to say that extended drain intervals are OK, but I agree - it does depend on the individual
Old May 1, 2002 | 03:23 AM
  #24  
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Originally posted by bill99gxe

Please do not go over 3k miles with this oil
OK...


Also, take the Fram oil filter off of your vehicle immediately.
They're not that bad... I know, I know I've read about the Fram plant horror stories. But, I've also read tons of posts of people supporting the Fram line. Besides, my K&N filter isn't due to arrive until Friday.

G
Old May 1, 2002 | 06:43 AM
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Originally posted by 02MaXiMa_GLE
They're not that bad... I know, I know I've read about the Fram plant horror stories. But, I've also read tons of posts of people supporting the Fram line. Besides, my K&N filter isn't due to arrive until Friday.

G



I weep for that VQ35DE........








Fram has consistently been inferior to every other filter out there in recent years. PLEASE remove it.
Old May 1, 2002 | 09:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by bill99gxe

I weep for that VQ35DE........

Fram has consistently been inferior to every other filter out there in recent years. PLEASE remove it.
No need to cry Bill... the Magnaforce fitlermagnet will collect all of the shavings

The VQ will be juuuust fine...

Besides, the domestic forums seem to like Fram filters.

G
Old May 2, 2002 | 05:43 AM
  #27  
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Maybe those domestics forums need to get a clue. Fram used to be good, way back when it was it's own company. Ever since being bought out by Allied Signal, things went downhill.

As Jeff92Se so eloquently put it concernig domestics, "Black dot city on the consumer reports ratings scale!"


And by the way, shame on you for even comparing the Maxima to a domestic

DW

Originally posted by 02MaXiMa_GLE


No need to cry Bill... the Magnaforce fitlermagnet will collect all of the shavings

The VQ will be juuuust fine...

Besides, the domestic forums seem to like Fram filters.

G
Old May 2, 2002 | 06:31 AM
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Originally posted by 02MaXiMa_GLE
Besides, the domestic forums seem to like Fram filters.

G
Out of control





Trusting what domestic people do to their vehicles is the sure downfall of your import. Taking their advice seriously is outright lunacy.

Besides, domestics are designed to last 40 or 50k.....not 200k
Old May 2, 2002 | 10:14 AM
  #29  
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*Rainman* FRAM SUCKS! *Rainman*

If you see ANY of the oil filter examination results, Fram filters are one of the worst filters on the market in construction. I mean really, if you think Fram is okay, then go ahead. If you want some REAL info, dig around and do some research.
Old May 2, 2002 | 10:41 AM
  #30  
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"Besides, domestics are designed to last 40 or 50k.....not 200k"

This might be the most ridiculous comment I have ever heard......
Old May 2, 2002 | 10:53 AM
  #31  
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Originally posted by bill99gxe


Out of control





Trusting what domestic people do to their vehicles is the sure downfall of your import. Taking their advice seriously is outright lunacy.

Besides, domestics are designed to last 40 or 50k.....not 200k
Taking advice like this is the real downfall of imports and sure is lunacy. My domestic out lasted my 84 nissan 200sx by about 70K.
200SX = 120k then died
Grand Prix = 190K and still running

I am not knocking Nissan in anyway. I bought another, my 2k2 maxima. All I am saying is to think the are engineered for 40-50K is shear stupidity. It is all a function of how well you take care of them, regaurdless of being foreign or domestic....
Old May 2, 2002 | 11:01 AM
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Originally posted by Tallyman


Taking advice like this is the real downfall of imports and sure is lunacy. My domestic out lasted my 84 nissan 200sx by about 70K.
200SX = 120k then died
Grand Prix = 190K and still running


My original statement alluded to the Camaro, Mustang, and LS1s who think their vehicles can handle NOS, etc. with nothing more than regular oil and Fram filters. Taking advice from domestic owners that Fram filters are good is luncacy. That isn't debateable.

However, you chose to make my comments more of a blanket assessment and used a really old '84 200sx to make your point, which is weak.

I am not knocking Nissan in anyway. I bought another, my 2k2 maxima. All I am saying is to think the are engineered for 40-50K is shear stupidity.


That comment was a bit tongue-in-cheek and you should probably think about such statements, the person who says them, and their context before responding. More often than not, I have seen abused imports last far longer than abused domestics....

It is all a function of how well you take care of them, regaurdless of being foreign or domestic....
Yes it is.
Old May 2, 2002 | 11:22 AM
  #33  
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Originally posted by bill99gxe


My original statement alluded to the Camaro, Mustang, and LS1s who think their vehicles can handle NOS, etc. with nothing more than regular oil and Fram filters. Taking advice from domestic owners that Fram filters are good is luncacy. That isn't debateable.

However, you chose to make my comments more of a blanket assessment and used a really old '84 200sx to make your point, which is weak.

[/B]

That comment was a bit tongue-in-cheek and you should probably think about such statements, the person who says them, and their context before responding. More often than not, I have seen abused imports last far longer than abused domestics....


Yes it is. [/B]
I was not trying to flame you at all. I never saw your original quote with mustangs,camaro's, LS1 using NOS and regular oil and filters. Knowing that I understand, its being a cheap *****. The old saying is "You gotta pay to play". This being the case I agree with using top of the line fluids/filters. I apologize. I just wanted to state a point about foreign and domestic. There are good and bad of both. I exclusively use Mobil 1 oil in all of my engines. Including my 500hp Thunderbird, from break-in and on. Put Mobil 1 in my maxima at 500 miles. Never had any problems with doing this in any of my vehicles.
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