How to flush automatic transmission oil and using Royal purple ATF....
Royal purple transmission oil??
Does anyone have any experience with Royal Purple oils?? I was out looking for transmission oil because I was getting my valve body upgrade done and I ran across this oil. I've never heard anything about them so I chose to stick with Amsoil due to it's popularity and competitiveness with Redline. From what I've been told Redline uses something known as parafins(wax)....somebody correct me if I'm wrong(still consider myself a newbie)but that can't be to good for your transmission...can it??
Re: Royal purple transmission oil??
Originally posted by BajaPanty_96SE
Does anyone have any experience with Royal Purple oils?? I was out looking for transmission oil because I was getting my valve body upgrade done and I ran across this oil. I've never heard anything about them so I chose to stick with Amsoil due to it's popularity and competitiveness with Redline. From what I've been told Redline uses something known as parafins(wax)....somebody correct me if I'm wrong(still consider myself a newbie)but that can't be to good for your transmission...can it??
Does anyone have any experience with Royal Purple oils?? I was out looking for transmission oil because I was getting my valve body upgrade done and I ran across this oil. I've never heard anything about them so I chose to stick with Amsoil due to it's popularity and competitiveness with Redline. From what I've been told Redline uses something known as parafins(wax)....somebody correct me if I'm wrong(still consider myself a newbie)but that can't be to good for your transmission...can it??
Soon, I will be sending in my Amsoil ATF sample with 16k on it (needed to drain it due to axle replacement), so we'll see how that held up and how much longer it should hold up.
Royal Purple isn't all that special from what I've seen. Competitive, certainly, but not a cut above anyone else.......
I think using Amsoil is a wise move.
I just bought their ATF, and I've used their Racing Oil & regular 5w30 SAE synthetics, for my last two oil changes. I see no adverse effects & the car runs smooth as silk! I think the racing oil is probably a little "thinner" than 5w30 & makes the tires scream in 2nd gear, in my auto gle. Probably in my head!
I haven't had a chance to use the ATF yet, cause I need a shop that can:
a) remove ALL of my old ATF (apprx 9qt)?
b) let me use my own ATF
I figured even if no one has tried it before, there has to be a "first try-guy"... so why not me?
Try Jegs.com for good prices.
G
I haven't had a chance to use the ATF yet, cause I need a shop that can:
a) remove ALL of my old ATF (apprx 9qt)?
b) let me use my own ATF
I figured even if no one has tried it before, there has to be a "first try-guy"... so why not me?
Try Jegs.com for good prices.G
Originally posted by 02MaXiMa_GLE
I just bought their ATF, and I've used their Racing Oil & regular 5w30 SAE synthetics, for my last two oil changes. I see no adverse effects & the car runs smooth as silk! I think the racing oil is probably a little "thinner" than 5w30 & makes the tires scream in 2nd gear, in my auto gle. Probably in my head!
I haven't had a chance to use the ATF yet, cause I need a shop that can:
a) remove ALL of my old ATF (apprx 9qt)?
b) let me use my own ATF
I figured even if no one has tried it before, there has to be a "first try-guy"... so why not me?
Try Jegs.com for good prices.
G
I just bought their ATF, and I've used their Racing Oil & regular 5w30 SAE synthetics, for my last two oil changes. I see no adverse effects & the car runs smooth as silk! I think the racing oil is probably a little "thinner" than 5w30 & makes the tires scream in 2nd gear, in my auto gle. Probably in my head!
I haven't had a chance to use the ATF yet, cause I need a shop that can:
a) remove ALL of my old ATF (apprx 9qt)?
b) let me use my own ATF
I figured even if no one has tried it before, there has to be a "first try-guy"... so why not me?
Try Jegs.com for good prices.G
Changing the ATF by yourself isn't rocket science on the 4th and 5th gen automatics. All you need is a 19mm socket for the drain plug on the bottom of the tranny pan. Most here state that about all of it comes out on the first drain, although some say only 4 to 5 quarts.
If you're super ****, then you will want to drop the pan and clean all of the metal crud off the magnets on the pan. In that case, you will need to purchase new bolts for putting the tranny pan back on as well as a new gasket. If you want part numbers, please ask and I'll supply them....
Please do not use the RP racing oil past 3 or 4k. That stuff isn't designed for normal wear use and won't adequately protect your engine past that point. Extended drain intervals on Royal Purple or Redline racing oil is a bad idea. The additives are designed to break down relatively quick compared to even dino oils.....
I would also appreciate it if you would take an oil sample the next time you change it and send it to Blackstone Labs to have it analyzed. We currently don't have anyone on our spreadsheet who is regularly analyzing with Royal Purple oils (Lime is the exception, but an initial analysis will be awhile in coming).
bill99gxe
i would appreciate if you could either post the part numbers or PM me. i am about to change out mine this weekend with some redline. my nissan service department seems pretty competent thus far but the parts are horrible. if i dont go in there with the number then i know i will be back later that day. thanks in advance.
Re: bill99gxe
Originally posted by sloppymax
i would appreciate if you could either post the part numbers or PM me. i am about to change out mine this weekend with some redline. my nissan service department seems pretty competent thus far but the parts are horrible. if i dont go in there with the number then i know i will be back later that day. thanks in advance.
i would appreciate if you could either post the part numbers or PM me. i am about to change out mine this weekend with some redline. my nissan service department seems pretty competent thus far but the parts are horrible. if i dont go in there with the number then i know i will be back later that day. thanks in advance.
==* Tranny Plug 31377-31X06
==* (21) Tranny Pan Bolts 31377-80X09
==* Tranny "Screen" inside transmission (some think it is a filter, but it is not. Changing isn't necessary, but while you have the pan off, you might as well consider replacing) 31728-80X04
Those numbers are for 95 to 2k1 Maximas only.
Originally posted by bill99gxe
Changing the ATF by yourself isn't rocket science on the 4th and 5th gen automatics. All you need is a 19mm socket for the drain plug on the bottom of the tranny pan. Most here state that about all of it comes out on the first drain, although some say only 4 to 5 quarts.
If you're super ****, then you will want to drop the pan and clean all of the metal crud off the magnets on the pan. In that case, you will need to purchase new bolts for putting the tranny pan back on as well as a new gasket. If you want part numbers, please ask and I'll supply them....
Please do not use the RP racing oil past 3 or 4k. That stuff isn't designed for normal wear use and won't adequately protect your engine past that point. Extended drain intervals on Royal Purple or Redline racing oil is a bad idea. The additives are designed to break down relatively quick compared to even dino oils.....
I would also appreciate it if you would take an oil sample the next time you change it and send it to Blackstone Labs to have it analyzed. We currently don't have anyone on our spreadsheet who is regularly analyzing with Royal Purple oils (Lime is the exception, but an initial analysis will be awhile in coming).
Changing the ATF by yourself isn't rocket science on the 4th and 5th gen automatics. All you need is a 19mm socket for the drain plug on the bottom of the tranny pan. Most here state that about all of it comes out on the first drain, although some say only 4 to 5 quarts.
If you're super ****, then you will want to drop the pan and clean all of the metal crud off the magnets on the pan. In that case, you will need to purchase new bolts for putting the tranny pan back on as well as a new gasket. If you want part numbers, please ask and I'll supply them....
Please do not use the RP racing oil past 3 or 4k. That stuff isn't designed for normal wear use and won't adequately protect your engine past that point. Extended drain intervals on Royal Purple or Redline racing oil is a bad idea. The additives are designed to break down relatively quick compared to even dino oils.....
I would also appreciate it if you would take an oil sample the next time you change it and send it to Blackstone Labs to have it analyzed. We currently don't have anyone on our spreadsheet who is regularly analyzing with Royal Purple oils (Lime is the exception, but an initial analysis will be awhile in coming).
I don't feel like paying for an oil analysis... but if you want I can send you an oil sample... I have some saved from my RP Racing oil #21 change. (it's been sitting in the oil pan for a 2weeks, though) I also have 2-oil filters (2nd & 3rd oil change). One of them is WITH a filtermagnet, and one WITHOUT the magnet. if anyone is interestedin "chopping" them up, I will gladly mail them out. I don't have the proper tools to do it & I would like to see if the filtermagnet actually captures anything. Anyone interested?...
G
Originally posted by 02MaXiMa_GLE
Thanks, Bill. From what I've read, ATF should be 9qt total, right? I'm hoping to be able to drain all 9qt with one shot, without removing the pan.
G
Thanks, Bill. From what I've read, ATF should be 9qt total, right? I'm hoping to be able to drain all 9qt with one shot, without removing the pan.
G
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=128621
A good pic that shows the transmission cooler return line:
http://www.greghome.com/images/Maxim...urnLineOff.jpg
You can also see the tranny pan and even the tranny drain plug if you look closely.
Greg's overall tranny cooler instructions can be found here, and have some other good overall pics of the tranny area:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Gar...n%20Cooler.htm
I've been using Royal Purple stuff for a while now. I really like the stuff. I use the 5w30 and atf. I've run the atf for a couple of months now. No problems so far. IF anybody knew how to test the fluid, I wouldn't mind sending you guys a sample.
You really don't have to drop the xmission
pan to remove most of the old ATF.
Here is what I do everytime I replenish my ATF;
1) remove ATF transmission drain plug and let old
ATF drain.
2) Install drain plug and put fresh ATF (~4 qts)
3) get underneath car and look at the hoses from
transmission to radiator. Driver side is the
return hose from radiator to transmission.
4) Remove hose at the xmission only coming from
driver side and put it into a oil pan.
5) Start engine and put transmission to all the
gears, without letting the car move!
6) Get somebody to watch the ATF being drained
from xmission to oil pan, until a gallon is
drained.
7) Stop engine , install the hose back and fill
up with fresh ATF (~ 4qts)
8) Start engine and move transmission to all gears
and measure ATF dipstick.
9) top it off to maximum as needed
Here is what I do everytime I replenish my ATF;
1) remove ATF transmission drain plug and let old
ATF drain.
2) Install drain plug and put fresh ATF (~4 qts)
3) get underneath car and look at the hoses from
transmission to radiator. Driver side is the
return hose from radiator to transmission.
4) Remove hose at the xmission only coming from
driver side and put it into a oil pan.
5) Start engine and put transmission to all the
gears, without letting the car move!
6) Get somebody to watch the ATF being drained
from xmission to oil pan, until a gallon is
drained.
7) Stop engine , install the hose back and fill
up with fresh ATF (~ 4qts)
8) Start engine and move transmission to all gears
and measure ATF dipstick.
9) top it off to maximum as needed
Re: You really don't have to drop the xmission
Originally posted by stjohnr
pan to remove most of the old ATF.
Here is what I do everytime I replenish my ATF;
1) remove ATF transmission drain plug and let old
ATF drain.
2) Install drain plug and put fresh ATF (~4 qts)
3) get underneath car and look at the hoses from
transmission to radiator. Driver side is the
return hose from radiator to transmission.
4) Remove hose at the xmission only coming from
driver side and put it into a oil pan.
5) Start engine and put transmission to all the
gears, without letting the car move!
6) Get somebody to watch the ATF being drained
from xmission to oil pan, until a gallon is
drained.
7) Stop engine , install the hose back and fill
up with fresh ATF (~ 4qts)
8) Start engine and move transmission to all gears
and measure ATF dipstick.
9) top it off to maximum as needed
pan to remove most of the old ATF.
Here is what I do everytime I replenish my ATF;
1) remove ATF transmission drain plug and let old
ATF drain.
2) Install drain plug and put fresh ATF (~4 qts)
3) get underneath car and look at the hoses from
transmission to radiator. Driver side is the
return hose from radiator to transmission.
4) Remove hose at the xmission only coming from
driver side and put it into a oil pan.
5) Start engine and put transmission to all the
gears, without letting the car move!
6) Get somebody to watch the ATF being drained
from xmission to oil pan, until a gallon is
drained.
7) Stop engine , install the hose back and fill
up with fresh ATF (~ 4qts)
8) Start engine and move transmission to all gears
and measure ATF dipstick.
9) top it off to maximum as needed
G
ATF flush
Originally posted by stjohnr
5) Start engine and put transmission to all the
gears, without letting the car move!
6) Get somebody to watch the ATF being drained
from xmission to oil pan, until a gallon is
drained.
5) Start engine and put transmission to all the
gears, without letting the car move!
6) Get somebody to watch the ATF being drained
from xmission to oil pan, until a gallon is
drained.
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