help me pick a welder
i would buy an arc welder (mma) because of its low running cost, you put the rod in, point and go.
no gas no rolls of wire easy to set up for some one thats not experienced (there is pretty much one dial)
but in saying that a mig welder is the go bulk amounts of ajustability!!!
prob buy a lincon or a CIG welder
although work has been relplacing the lincons with cheap chinese ones... they are ok but they are also 3 phase and 500+ amps LOL
no gas no rolls of wire easy to set up for some one thats not experienced (there is pretty much one dial)
but in saying that a mig welder is the go bulk amounts of ajustability!!!
prob buy a lincon or a CIG welder
although work has been relplacing the lincons with cheap chinese ones... they are ok but they are also 3 phase and 500+ amps LOL
thanks Mark for ALL that information haha. Im pretty set on getting a MIG and most specifically the 135t that matt and black talked about. sounds like a good all around welder which is really all that I need.
im still a little confused as to what more i'll need to hook it up with argon but i'll figure it out after i purchase i guess.
im still a little confused as to what more i'll need to hook it up with argon but i'll figure it out after i purchase i guess.
so yall are saying that without the gas its just considered a flux weld? and isnt as strong? or protected..or something.
without the gas you would run a flux-core wire, which basically does the same thing but not as well. maybe mark can get more technical about it.
you should just need a tank/gas iirc to make it happen.
you should just need a tank/gas iirc to make it happen.
Even more yaking about welding.
Ya, flux core wire makes lots of smoke and leaves slag on top of the weld that you have to chip off and does not work as well for thin sheet metal.
The flux core wire that does NOT require gas we called trash arc. It spits out lots of sparks and splatter. I don't recommend it. Iron workers use it a lot because their work is outside and the wind would blow the gas coverage away. I don't know if they make flux core small enough for the 110v home welders.
You might as well get a cheaper machine and learn to stick weld.
Since your machine comes with a regulator/ flow meter it must come with the hoses to connect it all up.
I try not to take myself too seriously, you could probably get a book from the library and learn more.
P.S. I watched a welder try to change a 100 lb roll of stainless flux core wire when the roll got away from him and attacked him like a giant slinky gone bad. They had to throw the whole thing away.
The flux core wire that does NOT require gas we called trash arc. It spits out lots of sparks and splatter. I don't recommend it. Iron workers use it a lot because their work is outside and the wind would blow the gas coverage away. I don't know if they make flux core small enough for the 110v home welders.
You might as well get a cheaper machine and learn to stick weld.
Since your machine comes with a regulator/ flow meter it must come with the hoses to connect it all up.
I try not to take myself too seriously, you could probably get a book from the library and learn more.

P.S. I watched a welder try to change a 100 lb roll of stainless flux core wire when the roll got away from him and attacked him like a giant slinky gone bad. They had to throw the whole thing away.
Ya, flux core wire makes lots of smoke and leaves slag on top of the weld that you have to chip off and does not work as well for thin sheet metal.
The flux core wire that does NOT require gas we called trash arc. It spits out lots of sparks and splatter. I don't recommend it. Iron workers use it a lot because their work is outside and the wind would blow the gas coverage away. I don't know if they make flux core small enough for the 110v home welders.
You might as well get a cheaper machine and learn to stick weld.
Since your machine comes with a regulator/ flow meter it must come with the hoses to connect it all up.
I try not to take myself too seriously, you could probably get a book from the library and learn more.
P.S. I watched a welder try to change a 100 lb roll of stainless flux core wire when the roll got away from him and attacked him like a giant slinky gone bad. They had to throw the whole thing away.
The flux core wire that does NOT require gas we called trash arc. It spits out lots of sparks and splatter. I don't recommend it. Iron workers use it a lot because their work is outside and the wind would blow the gas coverage away. I don't know if they make flux core small enough for the 110v home welders.
You might as well get a cheaper machine and learn to stick weld.
Since your machine comes with a regulator/ flow meter it must come with the hoses to connect it all up.
I try not to take myself too seriously, you could probably get a book from the library and learn more.

P.S. I watched a welder try to change a 100 lb roll of stainless flux core wire when the roll got away from him and attacked him like a giant slinky gone bad. They had to throw the whole thing away.

i'll stick with mig. i want to do this as "right" as i can.
One last thing. The gas mix you want is Argon/Co2 75%/25%. This mix is for whats called short arc welding. You can go uphill or downhill or flat or overhead.
Search Wikipedia.org for "gas metal arc welding."
Now I'm going to watch a movie with my wife before I am accused of ignoring her.
Search Wikipedia.org for "gas metal arc welding."
Now I'm going to watch a movie with my wife before I am accused of ignoring her.
The Lincoln 135 comes with the regulator hoses, fittings, and a 1lb roll of solid and flux core wire to get you started.
You'll want to buy a 10lb roll of wire when you need to refill.
for the smaller stuff you'll be welding (sheet metal and whatnot), you'll want to use small wire. something like 0.015" or so. I forget what the standard sizes are for stuff that small, as I just use the 0.030" wire for everything I do since it's all 1/8" to 1/4" thick. it works fine for me. it's a bit big for welding the factory crossmember and chassis stuff, but will work if you turn the current and speed down. you'll want to go a bit smaller if you're doing exhaust too (since its thin sheet metal)
You can pick up the gas tank- again use C-25 as mentioned elsewhere in this thread. I have a 20lb bottle and it lasts me a good long time. I started with a 10lb bottle for portability, but found I was filling it more often than I liked. it's only a couple bucks more to get a bottle twice the size, so I traded up.
There are several welding supply places around Houston area- just look in the yellow pages for one close to you. you'll pay about $120 to buy the first full bottle, but then you own the bottle and the refills are about $20 or so. all you do is take the tank back to the welder supply and exchange it for a full one (like you would with propane)..
you'll also need gloves and a good welding mask. if you're going to be doing a lot, you'll want more clothing and whatnot, but I just wear an old denim jacket and good leather work boots. I used to weld wearing tennis shoes, but you'll think twice the first time a ball of molten slag lands on your shoe and melts through and burns the **** out of your foot until it cools down. been there, done that... several times.. ouch.. learn from my pain.
wear long sleeves and jeans at minimum and whatnot. As mark said, sunburns SUCK. When I started, I made the mistake of welding all day in short sleeves. I burned myself many many times with small bits of slag rolling down my arm, and at the end of the day wondered why my forearm was itching. woke up the next morning with blisters on my arms.
for a welding mask, I have one of the $50 harbor freight auto-darkening ones, and it works just fine for what I do. for a professional, I'd recommend buying a better one but this one works fine for me.
If you're hard up for cash at this point, you can buy a decent regular mask at a hardware store or welding supply for $15-20... but once you use an auto darkening mask, you won't want to go back. EXTREMELY handy to have..
that's really it for hardware required. good house wiring, the welder kit, gas bottle, gloves, mask, extra wire and whatnot.
You'll want to buy a 10lb roll of wire when you need to refill.
for the smaller stuff you'll be welding (sheet metal and whatnot), you'll want to use small wire. something like 0.015" or so. I forget what the standard sizes are for stuff that small, as I just use the 0.030" wire for everything I do since it's all 1/8" to 1/4" thick. it works fine for me. it's a bit big for welding the factory crossmember and chassis stuff, but will work if you turn the current and speed down. you'll want to go a bit smaller if you're doing exhaust too (since its thin sheet metal)
You can pick up the gas tank- again use C-25 as mentioned elsewhere in this thread. I have a 20lb bottle and it lasts me a good long time. I started with a 10lb bottle for portability, but found I was filling it more often than I liked. it's only a couple bucks more to get a bottle twice the size, so I traded up.
There are several welding supply places around Houston area- just look in the yellow pages for one close to you. you'll pay about $120 to buy the first full bottle, but then you own the bottle and the refills are about $20 or so. all you do is take the tank back to the welder supply and exchange it for a full one (like you would with propane)..
you'll also need gloves and a good welding mask. if you're going to be doing a lot, you'll want more clothing and whatnot, but I just wear an old denim jacket and good leather work boots. I used to weld wearing tennis shoes, but you'll think twice the first time a ball of molten slag lands on your shoe and melts through and burns the **** out of your foot until it cools down. been there, done that... several times.. ouch.. learn from my pain.
wear long sleeves and jeans at minimum and whatnot. As mark said, sunburns SUCK. When I started, I made the mistake of welding all day in short sleeves. I burned myself many many times with small bits of slag rolling down my arm, and at the end of the day wondered why my forearm was itching. woke up the next morning with blisters on my arms.
for a welding mask, I have one of the $50 harbor freight auto-darkening ones, and it works just fine for what I do. for a professional, I'd recommend buying a better one but this one works fine for me.
If you're hard up for cash at this point, you can buy a decent regular mask at a hardware store or welding supply for $15-20... but once you use an auto darkening mask, you won't want to go back. EXTREMELY handy to have..
that's really it for hardware required. good house wiring, the welder kit, gas bottle, gloves, mask, extra wire and whatnot.
i have a lincoln weldpak HD that i would sell cheap if you want it. Although its not setup for MIG, ive only used it for flux core welding. Its really not all that bad of a machine as far as people hating on flux core. As long as you know what your doing setting the voltage and wirespeed it works great! If anyones intrested in it PM me
Last edited by shortyblu95; Feb 9, 2008 at 10:19 PM.
heres a couple pics i took back in October when i bought it to build an exhaust mind you it was my first time using the machine (without practicing on scrap first) and it came out pretty good if you ask me. The pics were fresh after welding and just rubbing the discoloration off with wire brush.


okay guys I found a local welder for sale. hes calling it a "pro 135" lincoln electric, trying to find out if thats the same as the 135t. Its apparently barely used and was not bought as a kit but comes with a large 4ft tall bottle and the hook ups for it.
otherwise, hes asking 400 bucks for it so it sounds like a deal since I wont need to buy the bottle like Matt said can be another 100 bucks. After that it sounds like I just need some of the wire and a mask since I've already got gloves and what not.
im excited!
nevermind. turns out the pro does not have "infinitely" variable wire speed or some **** so screw it. stickin to the sp
otherwise, hes asking 400 bucks for it so it sounds like a deal since I wont need to buy the bottle like Matt said can be another 100 bucks. After that it sounds like I just need some of the wire and a mask since I've already got gloves and what not.
im excited!
nevermind. turns out the pro does not have "infinitely" variable wire speed or some **** so screw it. stickin to the sp
Last edited by chillin014; Feb 10, 2008 at 06:19 PM.
I think even the cheapest ones have a wire speed dial. In reality once you figure out what you weld most of the time, you don't change the settings that much. Especially if you are welding the same metal at the same thickness all the time.
oh current output** not wire speed. my bad.
hmm. cause i was thinking of purchasing this one
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p003755.htm
i just thoguht the warranty might be worth it...I donno.
hmm. cause i was thinking of purchasing this one
http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p003755.htm
i just thoguht the warranty might be worth it...I donno.
warranty is always nice, but I'm not sure it's worth the $100 premium.
I bought mine at Lowes for like $475...
go online and tell lowes you moved, and they'll sned you a 10% off coupon as a 'welcome to the hood' thing... that's how I bought both my air compressor and welder at good prices. but yes, I did actually more both times.
I bought mine at Lowes for like $475...
go online and tell lowes you moved, and they'll sned you a 10% off coupon as a 'welcome to the hood' thing... that's how I bought both my air compressor and welder at good prices. but yes, I did actually more both times.
warranty is always nice, but I'm not sure it's worth the $100 premium.
I bought mine at Lowes for like $475...
go online and tell lowes you moved, and they'll sned you a 10% off coupon as a 'welcome to the hood' thing... that's how I bought both my air compressor and welder at good prices. but yes, I did actually more both times.
I bought mine at Lowes for like $475...
go online and tell lowes you moved, and they'll sned you a 10% off coupon as a 'welcome to the hood' thing... that's how I bought both my air compressor and welder at good prices. but yes, I did actually more both times.

I prefer to buy something this "big" local but it seemed like the online prices are cheaper.
The SP135.
saving $50 online only means so much when you have to mail a 60lb welder across the country and back for warranty work- IF they even answer the phone when you call and tell them you have a problem after the sale.
I suggest buying local.
saving $50 online only means so much when you have to mail a 60lb welder across the country and back for warranty work- IF they even answer the phone when you call and tell them you have a problem after the sale.
I suggest buying local.
that is for an extededed warranty (on top of the 3 yr manufacturer warranty). i've looked through the lowes, home depot, etc. sites but to me it looks like your gonna pay more for something not as good. i've never had to warranty mine, but i'm pretty sure your going to end up mailing it anyway if you want to warranty it. maybe not, i dunno.
i have been welding for 15 yeayrs and my shop personal home unit is the is tha Hobart Handler 140 . it has variable wire speed runs on 115v and has amp adjustments from 25-140. this kit which i found at Tractor Supply comes with everything you need to start welding and is a product of Miller . and also comes with all the regulator and attatchments to hook up gas. this come with a hood and everything, gloves, tips but a small 1lb roll of 0.30 flux wire. you can get a 10lb roll for them for about $35-$45 at lowes and is a good roll of lincoln wire. a good roll of wire makes a huge difference. the 10ld roll at tractor supply is about $50 . i have used this to weldthings from exhaust and body panel up to custom heavy duty winch bumpers for 4x4s and crawlers. ive built exocages and frame/crossmembers. this is a really good and versitale unit. ALWAYS REMEMBER. with a welder. u do get what you pay for. so spend the money on the right one.
thanks. this is the one im gonna go ahead and get
http://cgi.ebay.com/Genuine-LINCOLN-...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Genuine-LINCOLN-...QQcmdZViewItem
Everyone has just about covered it already. I have a Hobart 140 and love it. I learned on 220 Millers in school. When I got my 110 it took some time to get used to the differences between it and the Miller. I'll be the first to admit that the lack of invinite adjustability available with the Millers is a bit of a hindrance at first. But once you get used to your machine you'll be able to do anything that is 1/4" or less.
I'll follow everyone up saying that gas sheilding is a must. Flux core is seriously not even worth it. Such a PITA. When you decide to get your gas bottle you'll have that cheapy little 20lbs bottle looking at you saying its a way to save money. Don't get it unless you will be using it once a week or less. I got a 20# bottle for just over $100 when I got my setup going. I quickly realized that it wasn't big enough. During my peak fabrication times I was going through a bottle once a month. Filling up a 20# bottle in my area cost $18. About a year after I got it I upgraded to a 60# bottle. It was a pretty penny(Almost $250 IIRC) but filling it only cost $23. Three times as much arc time for only $5 more per fillup. Well worth it IMO. All that said, if space is a concern, a 60# bottle is quite tall and will prohibit you from stuffing the whole setup under a shelf or workbench.
One thing about getting a 140, if you ever decide to upgrade to beefier stuff, coverting the 140 over into a stainless or aluminum only machine is definitely doable and perfect for that application.
Last thing. An auto darkening helmet is a godsend! They're anywhere from $130 to $250. Best money you could ever spend. I got a middle of the road one made by Hobart and its lasted me d@mn near three years and it still darkens instantly every time. Until I had it, I SUCKED at welding.
I'll follow everyone up saying that gas sheilding is a must. Flux core is seriously not even worth it. Such a PITA. When you decide to get your gas bottle you'll have that cheapy little 20lbs bottle looking at you saying its a way to save money. Don't get it unless you will be using it once a week or less. I got a 20# bottle for just over $100 when I got my setup going. I quickly realized that it wasn't big enough. During my peak fabrication times I was going through a bottle once a month. Filling up a 20# bottle in my area cost $18. About a year after I got it I upgraded to a 60# bottle. It was a pretty penny(Almost $250 IIRC) but filling it only cost $23. Three times as much arc time for only $5 more per fillup. Well worth it IMO. All that said, if space is a concern, a 60# bottle is quite tall and will prohibit you from stuffing the whole setup under a shelf or workbench.
One thing about getting a 140, if you ever decide to upgrade to beefier stuff, coverting the 140 over into a stainless or aluminum only machine is definitely doable and perfect for that application.
Last thing. An auto darkening helmet is a godsend! They're anywhere from $130 to $250. Best money you could ever spend. I got a middle of the road one made by Hobart and its lasted me d@mn near three years and it still darkens instantly every time. Until I had it, I SUCKED at welding.
Last edited by Broaner; Feb 21, 2008 at 07:45 PM.
thanks broaner. i got the sp135 from that link that I posted. Im waiting on it to arrive, it should be here soon, hopefully tomorrow.
I want to learn how to weld decently FAST because I need to just cut and reweld a crossmember for my other vehicle before I can drive it and put the maxima down for some mods.
my current problem (besides not knowing how to weld) is getting the cylinder. I know some people are probably sitting on these things or throwing them out, Im not about to go shell out 100+ bucks for one.
I want to learn how to weld decently FAST because I need to just cut and reweld a crossmember for my other vehicle before I can drive it and put the maxima down for some mods.
my current problem (besides not knowing how to weld) is getting the cylinder. I know some people are probably sitting on these things or throwing them out, Im not about to go shell out 100+ bucks for one.
how does this look price-wise, etc. ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nitrogen-Helium-...QQcmdZViewItem
60 cu ft is a good size isnt it? the bottle doesnt look much bigger than the pics of the 20's and 40's though.
Name: Airgas Southwest
Phone: (281) 447-7400
Fax: (281) 447-7407
Address: 510 Aldine Bender,
Houston, TX 77060
Facility Type(s): Retail Store
Fill Plant
Branch
Get Directions
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Distance: 12 miles
Name: Airgas Southwest
Phone: (713) 923-1685
Fax: (713) 923-7094
Address: 9300 Lawndale,
Houston, TX 77012
Facility Type(s): Fill Plant
Retail Store
Branch
Phone: (281) 447-7400
Fax: (281) 447-7407
Address: 510 Aldine Bender,
Houston, TX 77060
Facility Type(s): Retail Store
Fill Plant
Branch
Get Directions
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Distance: 12 miles
Name: Airgas Southwest
Phone: (713) 923-1685
Fax: (713) 923-7094
Address: 9300 Lawndale,
Houston, TX 77012
Facility Type(s): Fill Plant
Retail Store
Branch
Edit: DO NOT BUY A BOTTLE ONLINE. Most local places won't touch it.
Ah, I tried to nail down some used bottles too. Problem is most gas places will not fill a bottle that you don't own. There are laws about it now. Way too many theft problems. Also, X company will not fill a bottle that belongs to Y company. If you do end up buying one used you should do the transaction at the place that bottle is from. They will document the sale and will transfer the papers into your name. They will only do this if they are a nice place. If they are ****s; in my experience most welding stores are full of @ssholes. Anyway, if they are ****s they will not let you buy a used bottle from John Smith. They will force John Smith to sell the bottle back to them for less than half the original purchase price and then proceed to bend you over and charge full price.
BTW: When I say, "Own a bottle" I don't mean owning a specific bottle. Most shops will simply exchange your empty xx pounder for a full xx pounder. The only thing you really own is the rights to a bottle.
If I'm over explaining things, sorry. This knowledge and proceedure took a while for me to fully understand.
Edit: FYI, the link you provided looks to be a 30# or 40# bottle. Buying that here in Madison would be well over $100.
Ah, I tried to nail down some used bottles too. Problem is most gas places will not fill a bottle that you don't own. There are laws about it now. Way too many theft problems. Also, X company will not fill a bottle that belongs to Y company. If you do end up buying one used you should do the transaction at the place that bottle is from. They will document the sale and will transfer the papers into your name. They will only do this if they are a nice place. If they are ****s; in my experience most welding stores are full of @ssholes. Anyway, if they are ****s they will not let you buy a used bottle from John Smith. They will force John Smith to sell the bottle back to them for less than half the original purchase price and then proceed to bend you over and charge full price.
BTW: When I say, "Own a bottle" I don't mean owning a specific bottle. Most shops will simply exchange your empty xx pounder for a full xx pounder. The only thing you really own is the rights to a bottle.
If I'm over explaining things, sorry. This knowledge and proceedure took a while for me to fully understand.
Edit: FYI, the link you provided looks to be a 30# or 40# bottle. Buying that here in Madison would be well over $100.
Last edited by Broaner; Feb 21, 2008 at 08:04 PM.
mannnnnnnn. I didnt know it was like THAT. Crap....cause my neighbor probably has some bottles and I was going to ask him if I could borrow or buy them from him. That is frickin ridiculous. ugh.
TOTALLY TRUE i forgot all about that BS!!! ALOT of the people ive ran into at welding specialty stores are major ****s that want things there way or no way. When i was looking for new bottles the guy at one place mentioned that same point broaner, that i might buy this perfect brand new cylinder and when it runs out exchange it for one that john smith had 2 years ago which i was like WTF then why pay at all?? But thankfully he was a nice guy and said if i went to him exclusivly to fill it that i could keep the same cylinder.
Yeap its like that. Either suck it up and get your very own bottle(A very worthwhile investment.) Or you could rent your own bottle. Rates around here are, the upfront "Lease fee" plus $.10 a day.
Also a welding store is different from a gas store. A welding store is an establishment that sells all sorts of equipment as well as bottles and fills them. A gas store is usually a branch of a chain, such as Air Gas, that simply sells and fills bottles. These places are generally much more proffessional and less ****ish.
Also a welding store is different from a gas store. A welding store is an establishment that sells all sorts of equipment as well as bottles and fills them. A gas store is usually a branch of a chain, such as Air Gas, that simply sells and fills bottles. These places are generally much more proffessional and less ****ish.
Last edited by Broaner; Feb 21, 2008 at 08:53 PM.



