GimmeTorq

Oil gurus, would you recommend running Mobil 1 0w30 grade all year long in the Midwest (IL) in a 5th Gen Maxima?

I'm currently running dyno 5w30 but I will be switching to Mobil 1 5w30 in my next oil change. I have noticed that

1. The specs for Mobil 1 0w30 seem marginally better than for the 5w30 grade, specifically the viscosity index and pour point
2. Mobil 1 0w30 availability in the local stores and its price is better compared to Mobil 1 5w30 (around 70 cents cheaper per quart)

Any cons??

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Mobil 1 0-30 is a ripoff. Amsoil 0-30 is considerably better than there 5-30.

Kashoggio

iTrader: (11)

why is it a ripoff?

GimmeTorq

I value and respect your opinions, but please let's not make this thread a "Brand X of oil sucks, Brand Y is the best" one. I have made my decision of sticking with Mobil 1 based on the oil spreadsheet results, the fact that I will be changing the oil every 4,000 miles and convenience.

Now, my question is, can I safely use 0w30 grade all year long in my new VQ in the Upper Midwest (IL)? Normally we experience long, sometimes brutal winters, mild summers (below 90 degrees) but with at least 5-10 at 95-100 degree temps. Could it be harmful to the engine to use 0w30 in summer?

Kashoggio

iTrader: (11)

i have been using it in my car and its nice, the freezing and boiling point of 0w30 is better then 5-30. The only roblem is this oil such as this, if you have oil leaks in your car, they will loose oil faster now.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Both Incorrect assessments.

Mobil 1 full synthetic anything isn't a ripoff. However, their new SuperSyn oils are 15% lower in viscosity at temperature than the Tri-Synthetic. That seems to be the only Achilles Heel of this new line of oil. Whether the effect is noticeable will only be discovered when those who use it submit analysis results.

Amsoil Series 2000 0W/30 is marginally better than their 5W/30, and it carries a hefty premium: around $1.80/quart. I don't see the need for 0W/30 Series 2000 in Maximas, except for the VE30DE engines. For VGs and VQs, the 5W/30 is fine. I would be more concerned about the filter choice.


Mobil 1 0W/30 for IL should be fine.

GimmeTorq

Thanks Bill. I've been stocking up with Nissan OEM filters. Most likely I will be sticking with Nissan or Purolator filters.

BTW, found this "Oil Analysis Trobleshooting Guide" in the web, which seems pretty informative.

Frank Fontaine

There was a post with a link to cheap OEM filters. good to hear you're stocking up. Again, and it's imho, synth is not necessary for the Max. It didn't come filled with it. Motor oil's enemy is dirt. Synth oil is superior in every way, shape and form over the regular mineral oil, but dirt is also its enemy. For extreme cold, I think synth is worth it, maybe even stuff like Buffalo NY etc. Stuff will stay thin even in very cold weather, so it'll cirulate nicely from a cold start.

Since oil and filters are both cheap, I'd say something like a 5W30 Kendall or Pennzoil with a new filter every 5-6k is more than enough protection on a Maxima. If a car came filled with synth from the factory, I'd keep going with it. Maxima does not fit that bill. But as always, it's what the owner feels is best. You got money for synth, you're gonna get better oil for sure. That it makes any difference wear/tear-wise over 250k miles, I doubt it. Kinda like choosing a shingle with a 30-year warranty over one with a 25-year warranty--either one is more than good enough.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Castrol GTX is the best dino oil by far, especially for the price. A definite step above Kendall and Pennzoil.

GimmeTorq

I hear you. This is the very first time I will be using synth over dyno in any of my vehicles, mostly because of the weather up here and to reduce sludge build-up. And since I'm doing the oil changes myself, it's not a big deal, economically speaking.

Previous to the Max, I always used Castrol GTX in my vehicles with good results. Never had problems of oil consumption or leaks. My only complaint is that Castrol doesn't seem to do well against sludge formation. I just switched from Castrol to Mobil dyno in the wife's minivan, to see how it does.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Great link.....I think I'll use some of that in the next spreadsheet release for element explanations.

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

I've been using 0-30W Mobil 1 for about 30K in SoCal... no problems whatsoever... even with my S/C for the last 7K miles.

Alexis

The Porsche 911 Turbo uses mobil 1 0-40w.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

I don't think I explained my statement very thoroughly. I wasn't trying to insinuate that any Mobil was bad oil and don't wish to make this a who's best thread again. Simply stated, yes you can use the 0-30 all year round just fine.

About using dino oil. 1 very good reason for not using dino oil is the environment. Another good reason is less dependency on the middle east for oil.

GimmeTorq

You've got that right! Attempted to get a hold of Miss Cleo to see if she could explain it to me but the line was disconnected

Cool!

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

How is this the case? If anything, synthetic oil has a higher demand for crude per quart because it needs to be refined, processed in a polymer plant, then sent to Mobil or whoever and turned into oil.

Dino oil: Crude --> refinery --> additives --> packaging
Synthetic: Crude --> refinery --> polymerization plant --> additives --> packaging.

You get the basic idea. Since synthetic oil has more steps (and each one at less than 100% efficient material use), that means more crude pulled out of the ground for every quart of synth you buy.

Just flexing my chemical engineering muscles a little

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

From my standpoint, I go at least 15k on synthetic oil. With dino oil, I would probably go 4 to 5k.

So, I'm consuming about 8 quarts less of oil per vehicle yearly on my cars, which yields a reduction in dependence of 4 gallons per year from my household alone.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, what he said