Post your VI issues (for my records)
11-20-2002, 11:06 PM
#41
Originally posted by darksands
bump
bump
Are you using a relay?
Try looking at this:
www.cyberhub.net/manifold
IanS
11-21-2002, 08:34 AM
#42
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
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Originally posted by iansw
Copper wires are fine.
Are you using a relay?
Try looking at this:
www.cyberhub.net/manifold
IanS
Copper wires are fine.
Are you using a relay?
Try looking at this:
www.cyberhub.net/manifold
IanS
11-22-2002, 10:20 AM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,530
Deezo, I dont know if this is just the NAPA I went to or our area in general but when I went to the store I asked for the part number that is listed on Ian's and others sites for the vaccum canister. They could not find it in the computer, but when you tell them it is a vaccum canister with a built in check valve they can look it up manually. It seems that they had a different number for it in the store but when the order comes in from where ever NAPA orders the parts it has the parts number that is on Ians sight. Just a heads up if they cant seem to find it in the system at first.
SuDZ
SuDZ
11-22-2002, 02:58 PM
#47
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 1,094
Originally posted by darksands
Im installing everything except the vaccum canister today this evening. The canister should come in tommarow and ill just plug that thing in and see if it works. Hope it does, Ill be back here cause I know Ill probobly run into problems. Thanks for the info and help.
Oh, Vacuum Canister NAPA part #730-1607 for whoever needed that.
Im installing everything except the vaccum canister today this evening. The canister should come in tommarow and ill just plug that thing in and see if it works. Hope it does, Ill be back here cause I know Ill probobly run into problems. Thanks for the info and help.
Oh, Vacuum Canister NAPA part #730-1607 for whoever needed that.
I would like to get everything Nissan I can.
12-22-2002, 06:48 PM
#51
Re: y
Originally posted by cmoe211
y u?if ya don't mind me askin'?
y u?if ya don't mind me askin'?
I'm totally kidding anyway - my next GD isn't until late January.
Buy it from whoever you like.
IanS
12-22-2002, 06:52 PM
#52
Jan huh?that's when i planned on buyin' the vim and pipe...so let me get this right,most of these guys r sayin' that when dynoed there is more power but they r not seein' quicker 1/4 showing?......not bein' rude but how is that WORTH IT?
12-22-2002, 07:16 PM
#53
Originally posted by cmoe211
Jan huh?that's when i planned on buyin' the vim and pipe...so let me get this right,most of these guys r sayin' that when dynoed there is more power but they r not seein' quicker 1/4 showing?......not bein' rude but how is that WORTH IT?
Jan huh?that's when i planned on buyin' the vim and pipe...so let me get this right,most of these guys r sayin' that when dynoed there is more power but they r not seein' quicker 1/4 showing?......not bein' rude but how is that WORTH IT?
here, look at this:
www.cyberhub.net/manifold
IanS
12-22-2002, 09:06 PM
#55
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by cmoe211
Jan huh?that's when i planned on buyin' the vim and pipe...so let me get this right,most of these guys r sayin' that when dynoed there is more power but they r not seein' quicker 1/4 showing?......not bein' rude but how is that WORTH IT?
Jan huh?that's when i planned on buyin' the vim and pipe...so let me get this right,most of these guys r sayin' that when dynoed there is more power but they r not seein' quicker 1/4 showing?......not bein' rude but how is that WORTH IT?
The VIM gained me a dyno verified 50fwhp+ and 40fwtq+ at 6500rpms over stock. Don't be mislead here, I didn't gain 50fwhp/40fwtq at the peak. My power has just been extended to carry 1100rpms further (5400rpms vs 6500rpms). I gained ~6fwhp in peak power (189fwhp vs 183fwhp). It's true, I'm really no quicker in the 1/4 mile with the VIM, but the problem really lies in the stock redline/fuel cut. The 6500rpm fuel cut is simply too low to take advantage of the VIM in 1st, 2nd, and some of 3rd. Unfortunately, these are the three gears you spend most of your time in in the 1/4 mile. With a higher fuel cut (JWT ECU 7000rpm fuel cut), the increased shift points will allow you to accelerate faster therefore get better ET/MPHs. On the highway, a stock US-manifold Max stands no real chance against a VIM Max even a VIM without the JWT ECU. The extra power at the top of 3rd and 4th will walk away from the USIM Max pretty easily. On the SAME day and SAME track, my Max was 4-5mph faster and .3-.4 quicker than a Max with comparable mods (y-pipe, catback, intake) less the VIM. When I turned off my VIM, I was 3mph and .3 seconds slower.
I suggest doing a search on VIM and you'll get a ton more information.
As for the Y-pipe. Get it. No if's and's or but's. The gains are there. Period. I recommend getting the Warpspeed NON-MANDREL bent y-pipe. It's much cheaper and performs the exact same as the mandrel bent pipe. I've seen a Max with a WSP mandrel pipe and then with the non-mandrel pipe. There was only 1hp difference......across the whole power band.
Dave
12-22-2002, 09:23 PM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,148
Originally posted by Dave B
As for the Y-pipe. Get it. No if's and's or but's. The gains are there. Period. I recommend getting the Warpspeed NON-MANDREL bent y-pipe. It's much cheaper and performs the exact same as the mandrel bent pipe. I've seen a Max with a WSP mandrel pipe and then with the non-mandrel pipe. There was only 1hp difference......across the whole power band.
As for the Y-pipe. Get it. No if's and's or but's. The gains are there. Period. I recommend getting the Warpspeed NON-MANDREL bent y-pipe. It's much cheaper and performs the exact same as the mandrel bent pipe. I've seen a Max with a WSP mandrel pipe and then with the non-mandrel pipe. There was only 1hp difference......across the whole power band.
12-22-2002, 09:41 PM
#57
Originally posted by guido_sst
I totally agree with Dave, get a y-pipe. As for the mandrel bent/non-mandrel bent issue, it's really a toss up, the MB pipe will give you about the same power with an extra 3-5 horsepower from about 5000 RPM up. I would get the mandrel bent since you're planning on getting a MEVI, the power difference should be more significant when you're flowing more air at higher RPMs.
I totally agree with Dave, get a y-pipe. As for the mandrel bent/non-mandrel bent issue, it's really a toss up, the MB pipe will give you about the same power with an extra 3-5 horsepower from about 5000 RPM up. I would get the mandrel bent since you're planning on getting a MEVI, the power difference should be more significant when you're flowing more air at higher RPMs.
it simply changes the resonance of the manifold.
IanS
12-22-2002, 09:57 PM
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,148
Originally posted by iansw
Te MEVI does not flow more air at high RPM - the Throttle Body is the same size.
it simply changes the resonance of the manifold.
Te MEVI does not flow more air at high RPM - the Throttle Body is the same size.
it simply changes the resonance of the manifold.
12-22-2002, 11:08 PM
#59
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
On the SAME day and SAME track, my Max was 4-5mph faster and .3-.4 quicker than a Max with comparable mods (y-pipe, catback, intake) less the VIM. When I turned off my VIM, I was 3mph and .3 seconds slower.
I'm really no quicker in the 1/4 mile with the VIM,
You are confusing me. Did you improve your 1/4 mile or not?
12-23-2002, 08:25 AM
#60
Originally posted by iansw
Te MEVI does not flow more air at high RPM - the Throttle Body is the same size.
it simply changes the resonance of the manifold.
IanS
Te MEVI does not flow more air at high RPM - the Throttle Body is the same size.
it simply changes the resonance of the manifold.
IanS
The throttle body is not the limiting factor at high rpm, it is the inertial characteristics of the air flow being out of tune with the physical characteristics of the intake in a fixed intake manifold (i.e. non-variable intake manifold). The opening of the VIM's butterfly valves at high rpm opens up access to an air plenum, which changes the physical dimensions of the air path so that pressure waves traveling back and forth in the manifold occur at the intake valves exactly (or close to it) when the combustion chamber is filling, thus enabling more efficient filling of the chamber (i.e. more air). More air means more fuel, which in turn means more power.
12-23-2002, 09:02 AM
#61
Originally posted by Stephen Max
What? Ian, the MEVI (or VIM) has to increase the airflow - there's no other way to get the extra 50 hp at redline.
The throttle body is not the limiting factor at high rpm, it is the inertial characteristics of the air flow being out of tune with the physical characteristics of the intake in a fixed intake manifold (i.e. non-variable intake manifold). The opening of the VIM's butterfly valves at high rpm opens up access to an air plenum, which changes the physical dimensions of the air path so that pressure waves traveling back and forth in the manifold occur at the intake valves exactly (or close to it) when the combustion chamber is filling, thus enabling more efficient filling of the chamber (i.e. more air). More air means more fuel, which in turn means more power.
What? Ian, the MEVI (or VIM) has to increase the airflow - there's no other way to get the extra 50 hp at redline.
The throttle body is not the limiting factor at high rpm, it is the inertial characteristics of the air flow being out of tune with the physical characteristics of the intake in a fixed intake manifold (i.e. non-variable intake manifold). The opening of the VIM's butterfly valves at high rpm opens up access to an air plenum, which changes the physical dimensions of the air path so that pressure waves traveling back and forth in the manifold occur at the intake valves exactly (or close to it) when the combustion chamber is filling, thus enabling more efficient filling of the chamber (i.e. more air). More air means more fuel, which in turn means more power.
You originally made it sound more like forced induction than just resonance change.
I think we're talking about the same thing, I just wanted to clear it up for newbies.
IanS
12-23-2002, 11:06 AM
#62
VI installed okay... no relay... RPM switch run off coil pack...
a day later I got a 1130 for swirl valve control solenoid. still diagnosing this problem. anyone have any suggestions?
as for whether or not its worth it... I haven't been to the track yet but since the VI I've hit the rev limiter many times. it's worth it just to hear the VQ pull all the way to redline, instead of sounding and working like crap after 5000 RPM.
a day later I got a 1130 for swirl valve control solenoid. still diagnosing this problem. anyone have any suggestions?
as for whether or not its worth it... I haven't been to the track yet but since the VI I've hit the rev limiter many times. it's worth it just to hear the VQ pull all the way to redline, instead of sounding and working like crap after 5000 RPM.
12-23-2002, 05:22 PM
#63
I'm having a problem with my butterfly valves being stuck. the shaft (part # 14512-38U00) does not seem to move--even when I apply pressure on the butterfly values manually. the shaft is the long thin green part that the 6 butterfly valves screw into.
after additional inspection today, it seems as though the shaft doesn't have enough clearance to move properly.
basically my VI stays closed, but it is wired properly... i'm not sure what to do about this. i may need to order a replacement shaft.
after additional inspection today, it seems as though the shaft doesn't have enough clearance to move properly.
basically my VI stays closed, but it is wired properly... i'm not sure what to do about this. i may need to order a replacement shaft.
12-23-2002, 05:33 PM
#64
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by I30tMikeD
Dave,
You are confusing me. Did you improve your 1/4 mile or not?
Dave,
You are confusing me. Did you improve your 1/4 mile or not?
Another possible problem lies in the track I go to. The timers seem to woefully inconsistent. Soon2BMaxed ran 14.83@93mph with just a intake/catback earlier in the season. Once he added a Y-pipe, he could only muster consistent 15.0s@91mph and one 14.9@91mph. He went to the dyno and he was making 178fwhp/191fwtq which means his car is running perfect. He went back to the track and ran lower 15s. Many other guys I race with reported the same issues, they were .3-.4 seconds and 3-4mph slower in the final months of the season. I tried to go race at another track, but the winter season set in early and the tracks had to close early for the year. Early February is when the tracks reopen, I'll be back at both tracks. My best with the VIM was 14.70@97mph with a 2.29 60'.
Dave
12-23-2002, 08:38 PM
#65
Originally posted by Dave B
No, I didn't improve my best this year. I came damn close, but I still didn't beat my 14.68. There are a ton of things to consider here and the major problem lies in the stock fuel cut. It simply doesn't let me take advantage of the extra power by prolonging my shifts. Once I get the JWT ECU, my ETs should drop and my MPH should go up.
Another possible problem lies in the track I go to. The timers seem to woefully inconsistent. Soon2BMaxed ran 14.83@93mph with just a intake/catback earlier in the season. Once he added a Y-pipe, he could only muster consistent 15.0s@91mph and one 14.9@91mph. He went to the dyno and he was making 178fwhp/191fwtq which means his car is running perfect. He went back to the track and ran lower 15s. Many other guys I race with reported the same issues, they were .3-.4 seconds and 3-4mph slower in the final months of the season. I tried to go race at another track, but the winter season set in early and the tracks had to close early for the year. Early February is when the tracks reopen, I'll be back at both tracks. My best with the VIM was 14.70@97mph with a 2.29 60'.
Dave
No, I didn't improve my best this year. I came damn close, but I still didn't beat my 14.68. There are a ton of things to consider here and the major problem lies in the stock fuel cut. It simply doesn't let me take advantage of the extra power by prolonging my shifts. Once I get the JWT ECU, my ETs should drop and my MPH should go up.
Another possible problem lies in the track I go to. The timers seem to woefully inconsistent. Soon2BMaxed ran 14.83@93mph with just a intake/catback earlier in the season. Once he added a Y-pipe, he could only muster consistent 15.0s@91mph and one 14.9@91mph. He went to the dyno and he was making 178fwhp/191fwtq which means his car is running perfect. He went back to the track and ran lower 15s. Many other guys I race with reported the same issues, they were .3-.4 seconds and 3-4mph slower in the final months of the season. I tried to go race at another track, but the winter season set in early and the tracks had to close early for the year. Early February is when the tracks reopen, I'll be back at both tracks. My best with the VIM was 14.70@97mph with a 2.29 60'.
Dave
Dyam I need a 5spd.
12-23-2002, 09:21 PM
#66
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 35
I'm having a problem with the harlan rpm switch, but I pretty sure its the switch itself. It's very strange, it works when I first set the switch and check by reving while under the hood. But when I take it out on the road it always ends with the same result...no working vi and the switch is blinking. Guess I'll have to send it back.
12-24-2002, 12:28 AM
#67
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by md53
I'm having a problem with the harlan rpm switch, but I pretty sure its the switch itself. It's very strange, it works when I first set the switch and check by reving while under the hood. But when I take it out on the road it always ends with the same result...no working vi and the switch is blinking. Guess I'll have to send it back.
I'm having a problem with the harlan rpm switch, but I pretty sure its the switch itself. It's very strange, it works when I first set the switch and check by reving while under the hood. But when I take it out on the road it always ends with the same result...no working vi and the switch is blinking. Guess I'll have to send it back.
Dave
12-24-2002, 09:58 AM
#70
I got both.
Originally posted by A-Ron Max
Just curious, is there anyone out there who actually has the JWT ECU along with the VI? I should have both arriving to my house within the next couple of weeks.
Just curious, is there anyone out there who actually has the JWT ECU along with the VI? I should have both arriving to my house within the next couple of weeks.
12-24-2002, 10:20 AM
#71
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by iansw
I'm running a relay, and I've never had that problem.
IanS
I'm running a relay, and I've never had that problem.
IanS
After yanking my relay, my VIM has been 100%.
Dave
12-24-2002, 10:28 AM
#72
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 35
Originally posted by Dave B
You're in the minority because most of us running relays with the Harlan RPM switch all had the same problems as MD53 is currently having.
After yanking my relay, my VIM has been 100%.
Dave
You're in the minority because most of us running relays with the Harlan RPM switch all had the same problems as MD53 is currently having.
After yanking my relay, my VIM has been 100%.
Dave
12-24-2002, 02:41 PM
#74
Originally posted by JustMaxin96
I am running a relay.. no problems at all it opens fine in all gears.
md53 where is your switch mounted?
I am running a relay.. no problems at all it opens fine in all gears.
md53 where is your switch mounted?
BTW: Iron Lung = MD53
12-26-2002, 06:16 PM
#75
Originally posted by j_bryan
I'm having a problem with my butterfly valves being stuck. the shaft (part # 14512-38U00) does not seem to move--even when I apply pressure on the butterfly values manually. the shaft is the long thin green part that the 6 butterfly valves screw into.
after additional inspection today, it seems as though the shaft doesn't have enough clearance to move properly.
basically my VI stays closed, but it is wired properly... i'm not sure what to do about this. i may need to order a replacement shaft.
I'm having a problem with my butterfly valves being stuck. the shaft (part # 14512-38U00) does not seem to move--even when I apply pressure on the butterfly values manually. the shaft is the long thin green part that the 6 butterfly valves screw into.
after additional inspection today, it seems as though the shaft doesn't have enough clearance to move properly.
basically my VI stays closed, but it is wired properly... i'm not sure what to do about this. i may need to order a replacement shaft.
it's nice to have a VI that works
. next up is a dyno with the g-force ecu. can't wait to see what numbers look like.
12-27-2002, 03:36 AM
#76
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,308
Originally posted by j_bryan
my problem has been resolved. the solution was to extract the shaft and gently scrape the parts that need to rotate within the manifold. the shaft did not have adequate space to rotate.
it's nice to have a VI that works. next up is a dyno with the g-force ecu. can't wait to see what numbers look like.
my problem has been resolved. the solution was to extract the shaft and gently scrape the parts that need to rotate within the manifold. the shaft did not have adequate space to rotate.
it's nice to have a VI that works
. next up is a dyno with the g-force ecu. can't wait to see what numbers look like.
12-27-2002, 06:27 AM
#77
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: FV, NC
Posts: 14,287
Originally posted by Dave B
After yanking my relay, my VIM has been 100%.
After yanking my relay, my VIM has been 100%.
12-27-2002, 06:44 AM
#78
Originally posted by VQdriver
you'll like the Gforce ecu. i don't have the VI, but what i noticed with the new ECU is that there seems to be a noticeable gain after 3,500rpms. the engine suddenly feels like there's a low pressure turbo in there spooling. on the track you won't notice except for a timeslip consistently .1-.2 sec lowered ET. my best trap speed is 98.5. it's on the street when you're rolling on a slightly high gear and decide to stomp the pedal when you'll notice the added response above 3,500. if you have a GXE there's no more speed limit. just make sure it's an SE ECU. my $.02.
you'll like the Gforce ecu. i don't have the VI, but what i noticed with the new ECU is that there seems to be a noticeable gain after 3,500rpms. the engine suddenly feels like there's a low pressure turbo in there spooling. on the track you won't notice except for a timeslip consistently .1-.2 sec lowered ET. my best trap speed is 98.5. it's on the street when you're rolling on a slightly high gear and decide to stomp the pedal when you'll notice the added response above 3,500. if you have a GXE there's no more speed limit. just make sure it's an SE ECU. my $.02.
12-27-2002, 08:20 PM
#79
Licensed to Spell
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
:o)
Post our VI issues Deezo? O.k.:
I. No light in engine bay.
II. No outside temp. display with the Electronic Climate Control.
III. Back seats don't fold down.
IV. Lame cupholder
V. No Memory seats.
VI. The sunroof button doesn't light up at night.
LOL,... I kill me. Sorry, couldn't resist.
I. No light in engine bay.
II. No outside temp. display with the Electronic Climate Control.
III. Back seats don't fold down.
IV. Lame cupholder
V. No Memory seats.
VI. The sunroof button doesn't light up at night.
LOL,... I kill me. Sorry, couldn't resist.
12-29-2002, 12:55 PM
#80
Originally posted by Dave B
DO NOT run a relay. That's causing your problem.
Dave
DO NOT run a relay. That's causing your problem.
Dave
,so i end up putting one in for safety reason,seen i am having a lots relay in my tool box,i used to hook up alarm.