This is the set up i am running...STillen down pipe, RT hiflow cat, Greddy SP.......i need emission done by thrusday....will i have trouble passing?

 

As long as you have one of your cats/pre-cats left then you should be able to past. Just let it run a lil but before you get it tested cuz you don't wanna be running rich when you test otherwise you'll fail.

 

As long as your O2 sensors are working and your RT cat didnt give out like mine, you will be fine. But if it doesnt pass its a nightmare.

 

If your state offers free tests or non-counting ones, do one beforehand. I had both a dirty CAI filter and bad RT Cat.
Took 5 tests and $800+ to pass

 

I didn't feel like starting a new post, but i also have an emissions question. I am looking into getting a project car and build it up. (civic hatchback, sorry guys) Anyway, I was looking into getting a J-spec motor, but I heard that they will likely not pass emissions. My buddies told me that I would need a S-AFC, like 3 cats, and run the car dry and fill it up with only 1 gallon of gas! Can someone please shed some light on this subject!? Thanks, Dave.

By the way, I'm in IL.

 

by the way, www.honda-acura.net

 

If you are really worried, buy some of the additives they sell that are supposed to lower your emissions for testing.

 

In Texas all 96 and above vehicles are OBD-II tested. IF your car doesn't have any codes or a check engine light you will pass with no sniff test. Cars under 96 will need to be sniffed.

My car has a Y-pipe on it. No codes = I pass. They weren't going to pass because of my headlights. I had the stock ones with me so I put them in and didn't even lock them in. They approved my car, I pulled it out of the garage into the first parking space they had and put the illegal lights back in.

Check your local laws and don't worry about it.

 

Thanks guys. The honda-acura website slipped my mind. I think that just then engine itself would pass with a S-AFC, but turboing it, boring it out or both would make it near impossible. I'll check the laws out.

Dave.

 

Somebody told me about resetting the ECU or plugging in code readers into the connector and resetting it? Doesn't our MIL light only after 50 miles of problems or 3 starts or something?
Couldn't we just reset the thing right before being tested?

 

Even though you reset the computer and made the light go off, the problem will still be there. Ex: Your check engine lights comes on because of a bad O2 sensor. You reset the computer and your CEL goes off but obviously that wouldn't fix the faulty O2 sensor so your computer is still sending out that code even though you can't read it. An OBD-II would pick up this code and you would fail inspection.
The only difference in this situation is that you would fail faster if they saw a CEL, then you would if they didn't, it will still be picked up by the OBD-II if there is a problem.