All,

I just wanted your opinions on torque wrenches. Here are the ones I'm looking at.

I like this one the best:


2. 3/8 in. drive

 

Here are the others:
3.another 3/8 in drive

4. 1/2 in. drive

the 1st one is 29.99 The others are 59.99 I am willing to pay more, if it's a better wrench, but I do like how I can see the actual ft lbs I'm putting into it when I'm wrenching. you can't go wrong for 29.99 either

 

I have the 29.99 one...it's nice, but I wanted one of those ones that click at the right torque, it's a little more precise. Pay a little more now.

 

JC Whitney has a nice torque wrench for about 35 bucks. It's head has both the 3/8 and 1/2 drive. It goes up to 150 ft/lbs. Check that one out on their web site. Might even be a x-mass sale going on.

 

Like Wasim said--get the one that clicks. Spend a little more and get a decent brand. There is no point in buying cheap tools-

 

Will do guys, thanks!

Merry Xmas to me!

 

Agreed. Buy the best you can afford.

The trouble with the clickers is that they can go out of calibration, so it behooves you to have them recalibrated every couple of years (depending on how much they're used). It is also possible that the torque wrench will fail to click when you get to the set torque (especially on settings at the lower range of the wrench's usage), so you have to exercise a bit of expertise and good judgement when using them. The beam type never go out of calibration, but there are times when you can't see the scale easily while you're torquing the bolt. I have both types. Having both means you can do your own calibration checks, too.

 

 

So I should get both, one for usage, and the beam type for calibration checks?

The beam sounds like a nice way to start out with.... Since it never goes out of spec.

 

just get the beam that clicks, thats all you need.

 

Should I get the 1/2 or 3/8 in. drive? I COULD use both

 

Should I get the 1/2 or 3/8 in. drive? I COULD use both

I think I'll get this one:

and quote for 39.99 at JCWhitney's,
" HEAVY-DUTY 1/2" DRIVE TORQUE WRENCH
Range: 25-250 ft.-lbs. and 3.5-34.5 m.-kgs.
Approx. 25"L. Wrench sets torque in clockwise movement. Reversible ratcheting action. Micrometer-style adjustments; lock holds torque setting. Nickel-chromed steel body…smooth ball-bearing action. Wrench clicks when you reach desired pre-set torque. With complete instructions and additional conversion tables and formulas. "

 

I got one made by Huskey from Home Depot and I don't know how the thing works. I had to replace the first one I bought because it fell apart in my hands as I was using it.

 

I got the first one....works great.

Just make sure your looking at the FT/LBS scale and not the N/M.

Clicky kind would be nice, but I'd rather have the beam if it's the ONLY one in my tool box.

 

 

I dunno where you plan to buy from, but check out

www.harborfreight.com

GREAT tools, and fantastic prices.

 

like i said, i'd rather have the beam one simply because it also doubles up as a breaker bar for more leverage when doing stuff like suspension work etc..try using that first one as a breaker bar,it just doesnt cut it.

 

I wouldn't use a torque wench as a breaker bar ... but if it's a craftsman, then I guess you could take it back if you break it or it stops working

 

lol whoops... yeah good thing mine is a craftsman

 

I've used my harbor freight torque wrench as a breaker bar many times. No problems at all. Harbor Freight has lifetime warranty on all its tools as well. They are not as nice as Craftsman or Snapon, but they are all you need to work on your own car.

 

mine too

I have the clicky torque wrench BTW....

 

Yesterday I bought a Stanley torque wrench from Pepboys. Model number 86-354T, 1/2" drive, 50 - 250 ft/lbs, micrometer / click type with ratcheting head. The wrench is ~26 inches long and it includes a storage case. I paid $70.00 plus tax.

 

Funny thing is....the Craftsman clicky ones do NOT have a warranty. READ the package. That's why I went with the beam one instead.

However, I wonder what REALLY happens if I bring it in and say it's not calibrated correctly. Hmmmn...ok sir...give me about 5mins. and I'll have that thing zero'd in for ya. Then he uses a pair of pliers and bends the needle straight.

IF you screw up the beam torque wrentch....I recommend you use seximagtrs' idea and bust a few exhaust bolts free with it.

 

I have both the beam one and the clicky one. I find myself using the beam one almost all the time. I just can't seem to be able to use the clicky one correctly. I would try to keep turning until I hear a click, but often I wouldn't hear a thing. So I keep turning, but later found out it was too tight, but why didn't I hear the click? Weird. So I just use the beam one exclusively now.

 

Funnylittleman- Get the 1/2"drive click type torque wrench to start off with ( when using a beam-type torque wrench you have to look straight at the scale to get an accurate reading and this can be difficult when torqing equipment in some awkward locations. ) . One of my jobs before I retired was recalibrating torque wrenches at a nuclear plant.A few things to remember when using a torque wrench are:1/ ALWAYS readjust the torque wrench back to the lowest setting on the dial when you are finished using it, the wrench over time will loose it's accuracy if left with higher adjustments on it because the internal spring is not relaxed. 2/ NEVER use the wrench as a breaker bar, it is a precision instument. 3/STORE your wrench in a dry warm enviroment. 4/Always use proper torqing sequences to obtain torque within specs. I have found that torque wrenches if used as above will remain accurate almost indefinitely . Hope this helps.
Frankie

 

1/2 drive, clicker type in ft.-lbs for $30 or less

 

I got that first one, cost about $30. I like it because it works, easy to read, and its cheap!

 

That's what my owner's manual says. btw where do you get it calibrated and how much $$? Mine is about 10 years-old. If it costs more than $10 I'd just as soon buy a new one, BUT I'd take the new one and see how accurate the old one is relative.

IMHO if $59.99 is spent, that wrench is sufficient. I personally prefer the 1/2" drive because my sockets are such, but it's not critical because we're not applying much force with the torque wrench. Everybody should have a breaker bar that's used to apply the force, ie to remove the bolt. however, at 85 ft-lbs it doesn't take much to loosen the nuts.

 

I have what looked like a nice set that came in a case, well it has a pad that supposedly keeps everything in place, but it doesn't it always lets about 3 or 4 of the smaller sockets creap out

 

i bought mine at a harbor freight store. Under $20. And i've used it to install strut bars on about 16 cars.

 

if you use it as a breaker bar but it will become uncalibrated. Breaker bars are less than $20 bucks.. Use the right tool for the right job, if you can..

 

Eric,

I will check this place out. I am going with the convetional one (with torque and Newton-Meter (sorry )) settings directly on the bar. I do like the clicky thing, BUT I don't trust it. I would rather see what torque I'm setting.

Thanks for the link man

 

Nanometer??? Oh, you mean Newton-meter.

 

funnylittlman- I agree with you just get the beam type 1/2" drive wrench. If you are only going to pay ~ $20 for a click-type torque wrench you would be better off just torqing by feel. The accuracy on those disposable cheap click-type wrenches never lasts. Expect to pay at least $50 for one that will last your lifetime.
Frankie

 

I'll pay whatever it takes, but the clicky one doesn't do it for me j/k

I think that you're right. Go with a nice one from Craftsman for 30 and be done w/ it

MERRY XMAS TO me

 

You can't go wrong with that. Enjoy your xmas present.
Frankie

 

I think the click type actually "feels" more accurate. With the needle type, you are pretty much estimating the torque. With the click type, you set the level, and when you torque down to it, it clicks, so you never overtorque anything.

You don't need to worry about the wrench not being accurate because most torque specs on the Max have a specified range, not a set number. Just set your wrench for the middle of the range, and you can be sure you are torqueing it fine even if the actual wrench is off a little.