I just received my JWT ECU after a turnaround time of 8 weeks (incl. transit time). Unfortunately, I get a ECU code (10 05 EGRC solenoid / circuit fault) but no CEL. Do others have codes too because as I understand it, you shouldn't be getting one if you have a 95-96 Maxima and a properly spec'd ECU (in my case: 1995 Fed Spec, MT). JWT is telling me that the code does not mean anything and that the EGR system is still functioning fine. Their explanation is that on some ECU makes, their "program" causes the error but it isn't really an error. They said they are still working on it and *may* come up with a solution in a few months.

Here is my beef: I went to the trouble of getting an exact serial ECU as my stock unit to submit for upgrade. I previously had CEL codes with a different serial (but proper spec) ECU with the GForce. I sent the unit it to JWT with the expressed intention of having it upgraded and NOT using it as a core. I took pictures of the inside, marked the top and bottom covers with my address labels--I wanted to make sure I got mine back. Well, when I got the JWT ECU, the top and bottom covers were mine but the body/main board are NOT. Don't know if they were trying to dupe me intentionally or what but what is the motivation in doing that? In any case, Ben says that despite the different serial numbers, the JWT ECU was reportedly from a 1995, MT, Fed spec so having my original ecu modified would be a waste of their time--the hardware would be the same. However, from the pics I've taken, there are noticeable differences in the board--I don't not believe they are even from similar years. The ecu they gave me appears to be much newer.

Can anybody suggest what I should do?

 

That sucks, dude. I've seen another thread here where JWT was being cocky with their custormer service. I'd hit up the better business bureau in El Cajon, CA 92020, and file a compalint against JWT, and be sure to let JWT know about it. You've got all the evidence. I'm sure they'll be calling back real quick with your ECU.

You should hit them up for some free cams while your at it

Good luck.

DW

 

Ben, the JWT fellow I talked to, actually has been really polite and had actually gone back to the engineer a few times to answer some of my questions.

I called Ben back just now and really pushed for having my stock ECU that I sent in upgraded and sending this one back. If the software is having problems with the ECU hardware, the one I have has VERY noticeable differences with my stock unit although 95% looks about the same. Even the circuit board tracings are different so I am assuming that the hardware differences could be significant.

On an up note, the car definitely feels like it has more pep and the upped redline is fantastic (with MEVI) although with my winter tires, I was spinning the wheels like crazy when upshifting.

 

Jwt does this alot, for the se-r ECU's they even improve the factory program also. If you gained power from the ECU I wouldn't worry about sending it back. In my JWT ECU it has a separate circuit board that controls the nitrous kit I'm going to install. Maybe the ecu upgrade is more than just a JWT chip .

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mishmosh
[B]I just received my JWT ECU after a turnaround time of 8 weeks (incl. transit time). Unfortunately, I get a ECU code (10 05 EGRC solenoid / circuit fault) but no CEL. Do others have codes too because as I understand it, you shouldn't be getting one if you have a 95-96 Maxima and a properly spec'd ECU (in my case: 1995 Fed Spec, MT).so did anyone else have any code or have bad experient with jwt ecu,cause my next mods prolly be b pipe and jwt ecu,thanx!

 

How much did you end up paying?

 

I think it was $560 shipped, and I paid $150 for a duplicate ECU from Maxima168 (thanks bro).

 

Questions:

Did you gain back any lowend power (3000-5000rpms)?

How's it feel to be able wind to 7000rpms and have the shifts land 500rpms later? Does it feel better?

Did you order directly from JWT or did you go thru another vendor?


Dave

 

It feels as if the dip in power from 4-5k is no longer there. It feels like there is a little more kick starting from 2.5k rpm though... It does not feel like a surge with the Ypipe or VI, but more of increased effortlessness to increase speed, especially in the midband.

I've only winded it up in 1st and 2nd gear so far and there is tremendous power engaging the next gear--I am unable to hook up with the snow tires though so that is a preliminary opinion.

I went through GR Racing who in turn used ConceptZ -- not exactly sure why? but you do save a few bucks over going directly through JWT. Even CoZ said JWT should have just modified the ECU I sent in, as was specified.

 

You probably didn't get your exact main board back for a good reason. There are probably some major electronic hardware changes, not just software, that is done to the Maxima ECU in order to run the JWT program.

I'm sure ECU's aren't plug-n-play.

JWT most likely is not the company doing the actualy rework of the printed circuit boards. They are probably done in bulk by an outside firm. That would only make sense for cost savings.

The average person doesn't mark up the internal electronics on their piece of equipment going in for service to make sure they get the same internals back. What you want back is something repaired or better yet, improved. In your case, you got exactly what you paid for. An upgraded ECU that has given your car more power.

Now the reason for your complaint is?

 

He's complaining because he went to extra effort to get an exact duplicate ECU for them to modify. They sent some other ECU back, and now he has a CEL that won't go away.

 

That type of attitude is like taking your car in for an alignment and coming out with a flat tire. Why would someone purposely upgrade their car to create problems? (albiet minor ones)

 

Actually, the JWT upgrade is similar to GFORCE. The ECU has an area made for accepting a bridge for which Gforce and JWT make a daughter card for. From what I can tell, no other parts of the board are modified. There should be no reason why they couldn't upgrade my own ECU to override the software(and potentially minimize any risk of CEL's due to differences in ECU's). *What I paid for is an upgrade to my ECU... not for an upgraded ECU*. Ben could offer no explanation why my own ECU wasn't upgraded. ConceptZ doesn't know why they didn't either. Again, I have previously put in another ECU with a different serial (but same specs, ie. 1995-6, Manual, Fed Emissions) and got CEL's up the Wazoo. That is why I went to the trouble of securing a duplicate (serial) ECU. All I am saying is that I could possibly have NO engine code conditions had they used my own ECU... a procedure that I thought I was paying for.

Analogy: You bring your maxima in to have the motor swapped. They give you back another (different) maxima with a good motor already in it. They say, "well it is a black 1995 (maybe) manual SE...the same as yours" It is not the same and that isn't what you paid for.

 

Just talked to Ben, and he is amenable to upgrading the duplicate ECU I had sent in and me returning this ECU that they sent me. I doubt that they will sabotage me for being a pain in their butt but what are the odds that Karma will bring me back my ECU with the JWT upgrade and a bunch of CEL's...

I will let you all know how it goes... Thanks to those who gave me their opinions here and in private.

 

i don't have a CEL problem with mine. also theres is no shifting at 7k and having the needle shift 500rpms later. you shift at 6500 and have it land at 7k. its louder at 7k

 

Thanks.
Re: 7000rpm / 500rpms later comment. I believe Dave B was referring to the fact that if you shift at 7000 (allowable because of the increased redline of the JWT) the next gear will start 500 rpm higher than it normally is at in that gear if you had shifted at 6500rpm that the stock ecu allows.

 

maybe...

 

The gears are mechanical therefore if you increase the redline by 500rpms, it means the next shift will always land 500rpms. We're talking about redline shifts (6500rpms vs 7000rpms), not shifts that occur below 6500rpms.


Dave

 

i'm not following.. the needle does not go past 7000 at all.

 

does it go to 7K rpm and then shift to another gear,or it doesn't even go to 7k rpm, i am lost here,can someone with the jwt ecu tell me if the car did shift at 7k or does it just jump from 6500-7000 and shift.

 

it shifts at 7000rpms.

 

Let's talk about a 5 speed maxima. Stock from the factory, if you try rev past redline, 6500 rpm, you will hit the feul cut at like 6700 rpms. The engine will just slap the the rpms down to protect itself from self destruction.

In a JWT ECU Maxima 5 speed, you can rev your car all the way to 7000 rpms, the ECU won't stop you.

By the way, what is the feul cut rpm on a JWT ECU?

DW

 

Fuel cut in the 4th gen VQ with the stock programming is 6550rpms.

Fuel cut in the 4th gen VQ with the JWT programming is 7000rpms.

With the JWT ECU, each shift (7000rpm fuel cut) will land 450rpms higher in the RPM range. Example:

1-2 shift at 6500rpms means you'll land at 4000rpms in 2nd. With the JWT and the 7000rpm shift, you'll land at 4500rpms.



Dave

 

Ah, OK. So with a JWT ECU Maxima 5 speed, you have to smack the feul cut on every upshift? Ouch. I guees maybe shift at 6950 rpms. I hit the feul cut on my stock ECU a few times in 3rd. It hurts, esepcialy with your hand on the shifter

DW

 

It is not desirable to be hitting the rpm limiter (fuel cut). You can shift into the next gear at whatever rpm you want but can take advantage of the extra power you get with higher rpms into the next gear. Unfortunately it is very difficult to guage exact rpms you shift at simply because our tach is so far off at WOT. That's why I think it's nice to have a shift light/buzzer. I used to have mine at 6200rpm and now can set it to 6700rpm, giving me enough rpm buffer to shift. Of course, in first gear, all bets are off since the rpm tachs up so fast with the VI. Anyone with a 5speed and VI will initially hit that fuel cut fairly frequently in 1st until they get a feel for just how fast the car tachs up now.

 

yea, i was told when at wot to shift at 6500 so it has time to raise past it a little past and then it will shift and not hit the fuel cut. if you try to do it w/o the limiter raised you will most likely hit the fuel cut.

 

I have a scan tool and stock my redline goes to 6650.

 

It doesn't matter if you hit fuel cut when your clutch is engaged i.e. between shifts. You just don't want to hit fuel cut while in gear otherwise it will slow you down.

Ideally you would start your shift at a point where your car gets to maximum RPMs and then the clutch is disengaged, you don't hit fuel cut but you run your car out as far as possible in each gear.

I don't think this is too hard to understand people. Shift at the maximum RPM you can without hitting fuel cut while in gear. This is why buzzers/shift lights help, because the tach is off so you never know exactly where you're at as far as RPM is concerned.

 

The optimal shifting procedure in an auto may be different from us manuals simply because the computer's shift is delayed somewhat. On my car, when going WOT, the tach will OVERestimate actual rpms by a good 100-400 rpm. If you shift at 6500rpm per tach, you may actually be shifting at 6100rpm. This is particularly true in 1st (300-400 off) but less so in the higher gears where the rpms increases less ferociously.

re: redline. When I did my dyno, the operator hit the fuel cut with each run but according to the computer, it was only 6400rpm. I probably will set my shiftlight above that and see if it actually does get to 6500rpm or not (if it lights up).

 

I see what you're saying. Time the clutch engagement so that you reach the feul cut rpms just as you get the gearbox in neutral, so the engine freely feul cuts down in rpms to the next gear.

DW

 

Mine too. The first time I dyno'd I told them to run it out to 6600 and the dyno showed it stopping at 6400 on the nose. The next time I dyno'd (different facility) I drove the car myself rather than having a tech drive it and I ran it out and bashed the fuel cut each time. 6400 is what all my dyno sheets read. Indicated fuel cut is at about 6700 for me.

 

Was that in 4th gear? Didn't think the tach was off by 300rpm in 4th but that was just me guessing since I almost never redline 4th gear on the highway

 

With the stock manifold, redlining in 4th gear . . you .. just . . . can't. I've tried many times

DW

 

huh? ive done it more than once with whats in my sig.

 

You must have had alot, and I do mean alot of roadway to achive that. What usually happens to me, is that I reach 115-120 mph and the speed does not climb as briskly. I'm better off shifting to 5th. At that point I will reach top speed faster in 5th than in 4th. The weakness of the stock manifold is very apparent at the top of 4th and 5th gear.

DW

 

No,my car accelerates in forth,much like it does in 3rdit really pulls hard to forth.

 

Fuel cut on my dynos appears to be 6400rpms also.

Dave