Does anyone know if our coils on the 4th Gen Dumb or Smart igniters.
We put the scope and the Dwell seem to be 4 ms @ Idle and then drop to 2ms @ throtle. It never seem to go lower than 2ms. Dos anyone know if they are Smart or Dumb. We're still playing with the wasted spark setup. It runs but it seems to burn out out the rear coils at times some times at idle. The coils get super hot and all the goo pops out.

 

Dunno but I'll try to find out for you tomorrow ... I'll be over at J&S tomorrow to do some readings for the Ultrasafeguard.

What kinda of setup are you running? The primary ignition signal is 2-3V, IIRC...

 

Thanks man. I'm running wasted spark 1/4, 2/5, 3/6
Cant remember if its Constant duty or cycle. We had it set to 3ms dwell time and dropped it to 2ms thinking maybe the coil couldn't handle wasted spark and 3 ms but that didn't work I blew another today. They've all been used coils but I doubt that its old age that's killing them my throw some new ones and see. It seems to always burn the rear ones. don't know why.

looking into custom coils.

 

The J&S is running in wasted spark mode... no serious problems...

What is the voltage of the signal you are sending the coil packs? What ignition system/controller?

 

hmm not sure what the voltage is. I'll find out.
We're using haltech to control the dwell. What dwell setting are they using for the J&S or is it controlled by the Factory ECu?

 

If your shooting 12V through your primary signal and it should only be 3V.... not good.

For most of J&S units, it's monitors and controls the dwell though I'll have to ask to make sure.

For the Marine version:
"The unit has a high energy ignition with constant energy dwell controller. The system monitors the coil current, and adjusts the dwell time to achieve seven amps of coil current. Compared to a GM HEI, this is a 62% increase in energy stored in the coil. The system can also be used to trigger an MSD. "

 

Uncle Max:

The stock coils have built in ignition transistors, so they are called "smart coils". Too bad they aren't smart enough to save themselves, though.

Key on, engine not running, you can blow them in a hurry, if the input signal is held high.

Disconnect the Haltech outputs from the coils. Hook up a scope and analyze them at key on. Make sure that they are all low, until you start cranking.

Until you dope it out, you might want to put a 15 amp fuse in the coil positive wire.

Idle requires more dwell. Idle speed, and thus the time between sparks, can vary a great deal, making it difficult to predict the arrival of the next trigger signal. Software also has to predict when to start charging the coil. If the trigger arrives before the coil is fully charged, a poor spark will result. For this reason, the coils are left on a little longer.

 

Hmm Thanks guys. You right about the key on. We noticed they got hottest on Crank and Key on. But it seem to imidiatley get them warm consistantly when they were new from the dealer @ key on. Used coils seem to stay cool @ key on. But I don't know if they pop from trying to crank the car over and over. Since it doesn't turn on imediatly every time. Sometime it takes turning the key for a few seconds before it starts. I'll your info to my tuner, John and Chunger.

We knew they had built in igniter when my first tuner tried to use MSD DIS4. Soon found out we couldn't use the box.