Hello all,

I tried to do a search, but I can't since it's disabled. Here is my questions, how do you know when the A/C compressor turn bad?

Mine makes a whining noise whenever I put the A/C on in the first few minutes. My AC is not as cold as it was 2 years back, but I think it's the freon (planning to go to an auto store and get the refill bottle with the kit).

Another question, is the A/C Compressor from 2k/2k1 Maxima fit with my car? It's a 1997, and they look the same (minus the plate from my compressor which could be removed and reattached to the 2k/2k1 unit).

I wonder if the sound is coming from the clutch....and should I spray the belt area with some WD-40 or something?

Let me know,

Armand

 

 

Karguy,

Thanks! I definitely think its the freon level. I read the Haynes manual and they told me to get the refrigerant kit to connect it with the low pressure system (located on the passenger side, near strut tower) fill valve.

Now my question, how do I know check the freon level?

Serpentine belt, hmm..that's a new one (still learning here)...you mean whether the belt is cracked/damaged/shredded or not?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ardika
[B]Karguy,

Thanks! I definitely think its the freon level. I read the Haynes manual and they told me to get the refrigerant kit to connect it with the low pressure system (located on the passenger side, near strut tower) fill valve.

Now my question, how do I know check the freon level?

Serpentine belt, hmm..that's a new one (still learning here)...you mean whether the belt is cracked/damaged/shredded or not?

Car has 2 belts, v belt for PS and serpentine belt for AC, Alt and Crankshaft. The belt winds around thus the name serpentine. Check for cracks and fraying. IMO the belts hold up very well on our cars.

Best way to check freon is with gauges which you probably don't have so the next best thing is a AC Temperature Gauge. On a warm day put the AC Gauge in the center air outlet in the center of the dash. Turn air on position 3 (fan)and max cooling then allow temp to settle down and read temp on gauge. On American cars a temp differential of 30 derees F was acceptable. Subtract cool air temp from outside (ambient) temp, this is your differential. On our cars 40 degrees should be the target but on my 97 I had a differential of over 50 degrees last summer. AC gauges are about $5 at parts stores, I keep one in all of my cars. You add freon to the low side (it will be cold) until you get the proper differential. That's it!

 

Karguy,

Ah....the serpentine belt, I think that's the belt that needs to be changed if I want to install Underdrive Pulley, correct? Thanks for the analogy, it's very informative.

I will check on the AC gauge, however I am pretty sure it won't be 40 degrees (yes, the Haynes also mentioned about this). It took my car very long so that the A/C would be cold enough.

Just checked the belts, they seem pretty new (I bought the car at 89k and now it's 130k) and no cracking.

Thank you very much! Really appreciate the explanation.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by karguy
[B]I wouldn't mess with your A/C unless you have the proper equipment. Your car loses R-134a(not Freon unless it is 92 or older IIRC) for a reason, i.e. leak. It just doesn't disappear. You need a professional to evacuate the system, repair any leaks, and remove any moisture from the system before refilling. When it is recharged, they don't just add refrigerant until it is cold. Refrigerant is added by weight. The Maxima probably holds 2 or 3 pounds(check the sticker).

 

I stand corrected R12 is Freon and R134A is called refrigerant. Tell guys at Parts store what year your ride is and they'll guide you to the right stuff. Also the connector on the can will only fit the correct type of low side valve unless you have the special adapters which I doubt. My set cost me $35. Biggest reason for poor cooling is freon loss. Connections loosen from engine vibration and poof there goes your freon. AC temperature test is final test when doing an AC repair because it verifies all parts of the cooling system are within spec. If you are nervous doing this have a AC Tech do it for you!

 

I am pretty sure mine uses R134A (1997 GXE) and I will buy two cans of refrigerant (with the kit) and the A/C gauge. I have a Haynes manual, and it seems everything is straight forward.

I have done suspension install (3 times), air intakes, plus RSB/FSTB and other minor things (rewiring wires, etc.). I believe I could take this job. The reason why I want to do this is simply because I am going to take a road trip in May/June across US (which I did in 2001), and my family wants ice cold A/C.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ardika
[B]I am pretty sure mine uses R134A (1997 GXE) and I will buy two cans of refrigerant (with the kit) and the A/C gauge. I have a Haynes manual, and it seems everything is straight forward.

I have done suspension install (3 times), air intakes, plus RSB/FSTB and other minor things (rewiring wires, etc.). I believe I could take this job. The reason why I want to do this is simply because I am going to take a road trip in May/June across US (which I did in 2001), and my family wants ice cold A/C.

I also have a 97. They use R134A. A little care and knowledge is all that is required, based on your experience you should do just fine!!

 

2 cans is to much!

One can or less is all you need to boost your A/C system from cool to ice cold again. I think the total amount the A/C system holds is around 18oz. One can is usually 12oz, so two is way overkill. They also sell a small shot can which has some oil and conditioner for the seals in the system. You might want to consider using that first. The conditioner might help maintain the seals in the system and prevent further leakage.

 

Small shot cat with oil and conditioner, eh? That's another new thing I learned. I will look for it njmaxseltd...... and man, it's good that summer is still 2 months down the road.



Thanks karguy and njmaxseltd!