What are the benefits of changing a PCV valve?
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Re: What are the benefits of changing a PCV valve?
Originally posted by MaxPerformanceSE
About two weeks ago a Nissan mechanic suggested I change the PCV valve. I finally got it done today. What can I expect from a new PCV valve?
About two weeks ago a Nissan mechanic suggested I change the PCV valve. I finally got it done today. What can I expect from a new PCV valve?
Re: What are the benefits of changing a PCV valve?
Originally posted by MaxPerformanceSE
About two weeks ago a Nissan mechanic suggested I change the PCV valve. I finally got it done today. What can I expect from a new PCV valve?
About two weeks ago a Nissan mechanic suggested I change the PCV valve. I finally got it done today. What can I expect from a new PCV valve?
Originally posted by ][ 35
is changing out pcv something that is easy to change out or something that is need to be done by mechanic? if so what is the cost around?
is changing out pcv something that is easy to change out or something that is need to be done by mechanic? if so what is the cost around?
, should be no problem at all. Oh - and I don't know how much it helps - but the old pcv valve sure looked ugly and burnt after 70k miles.
Originally posted by kushane
On my 4th gen - took a grand total of around 5 minutes to change it. If you can use a pair of pliers and a 10mm wrench , oh and find where it's located at
, should be no problem at all. Oh - and I don't know how much it helps - but the old pcv valve sure looked ugly and burnt after 70k miles.
On my 4th gen - took a grand total of around 5 minutes to change it. If you can use a pair of pliers and a 10mm wrench , oh and find where it's located at
, should be no problem at all. Oh - and I don't know how much it helps - but the old pcv valve sure looked ugly and burnt after 70k miles.
Originally posted by 98coupev6
nothing really...i think...it's more of maintenance issue.......
nothing really...i think...it's more of maintenance issue.......
A malfuntioning PCV valve can cause a host of problems, from vaccuum problems to mileage drop to rough idling, to name a few, of many.
The valve is a relatively cheap part, and usually does not fail on newer cleaner running cars. But it's a good idea to change it out when you change your plugs at 60K intervals. Always change out plugs first, drive car, then change valve. If car does not run properly after replacements, you can pinpoint a problem easier.
This is a good practice to follow for many types of multiple part replacement/repairs.
Originally posted by Bgohan
WHAT???
A malfuntioning PCV valve can cause a host of problems, from vaccuum problems to mileage drop to rough idling, to name a few, of many.
The valve is a relatively cheap part, and usually does not fail on newer cleaner running cars. But it's a good idea to change it out when you change your plugs at 60K intervals. Always change out plugs first, drive car, then change valve. If car does not run properly after replacements, you can pinpoint a problem easier.
This is a good practice to follow for many types of multiple part replacement/repairs.
WHAT???
A malfuntioning PCV valve can cause a host of problems, from vaccuum problems to mileage drop to rough idling, to name a few, of many.
The valve is a relatively cheap part, and usually does not fail on newer cleaner running cars. But it's a good idea to change it out when you change your plugs at 60K intervals. Always change out plugs first, drive car, then change valve. If car does not run properly after replacements, you can pinpoint a problem easier.
This is a good practice to follow for many types of multiple part replacement/repairs.
so any link to show pic of the part and where? or even better if there is link that shows how to replace it..
Originally posted by I30tMikeD
Pics = Haynes Manual
Write up = Haynes Manual
Pics = Haynes Manual
Write up = Haynes Manual
Originally posted by ][ 35
went to haynes site looked up for maxima but it only has it till 01... don't want to order it and find out it won't help with I35 much... so will that book till 01 be useful for my car 2002 I35?
went to haynes site looked up for maxima but it only has it till 01... don't want to order it and find out it won't help with I35 much... so will that book till 01 be useful for my car 2002 I35?
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,344
On the 4th gen, it's on the rear valve cover. If you peek down under the upper intake manifold, you will see a hose/PCV valve. You can just clean up the valve with some carb cleaner. I wouldn't buy a new one unless the old one is cracked or totally gunked up.
Originally posted by 1MAX2NV
On the 4th gen, it's on the rear valve cover. If you peek down under the upper intake manifold, you will see a hose/PCV valve. You can just clean up the valve with some carb cleaner. I wouldn't buy a new one unless the old one is cracked or totally gunked up.
On the 4th gen, it's on the rear valve cover. If you peek down under the upper intake manifold, you will see a hose/PCV valve. You can just clean up the valve with some carb cleaner. I wouldn't buy a new one unless the old one is cracked or totally gunked up.
Also, on the 4th gen, it is a bee-otch to change. It's in a tight spot and hoses are perma-stuck on the valve. *Yanking It can bust your knuckles bad, not to mention bending and damaging other parts. So, buy some 3/8 PCV/fuel line hose (10" is more than enough**) when you buy a new valve, and cut the old hoses to get old valve off. Slice it up the sides so you can still use it to measure length for new hose.
*Hose on car.
** Thats what she said, anyway.
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Originally posted by Bgohan
Replacing PCV valve is part of 60k tune up on Max. Other cars usually suggest to change it every time you change park plugs. It is probably just fine 95% of the time, but is a cheap part (usually less than $5.00). You can even clean it by soaking in carb cleaner to get by if you are broke or cheap, like me. Newer cars don't gunk them up fast because the engines run cleaner. If you have high mileage, it might gunk up faster. Also, if certain other parts fail, the valve will gunk up faster. It may not fail at 60k, but may fail at 114,198.6 miles, before you get around to changing plugs again, and give you fits and nightmnares and give a dealer an excuse to charge you $500 to "fix" your car after you cant figure out why it runs like crap.
Also, on the 4th gen, it is a bee-otch to change. It's in a tight spot and hoses are perma-stuck on the valve. *Yanking It can bust your knuckles bad, not to mention bending and damaging other parts. So, buy some 3/8 PCV/fuel line hose (10" is more than enough**) when you buy a new valve, and cut the old hoses to get old valve off. Slice it up the sides so you can still use it to measure length for new hose.
*Hose on car.
** Thats what she said, anyway.
Replacing PCV valve is part of 60k tune up on Max. Other cars usually suggest to change it every time you change park plugs. It is probably just fine 95% of the time, but is a cheap part (usually less than $5.00). You can even clean it by soaking in carb cleaner to get by if you are broke or cheap, like me. Newer cars don't gunk them up fast because the engines run cleaner. If you have high mileage, it might gunk up faster. Also, if certain other parts fail, the valve will gunk up faster. It may not fail at 60k, but may fail at 114,198.6 miles, before you get around to changing plugs again, and give you fits and nightmnares and give a dealer an excuse to charge you $500 to "fix" your car after you cant figure out why it runs like crap.
Also, on the 4th gen, it is a bee-otch to change. It's in a tight spot and hoses are perma-stuck on the valve. *Yanking It can bust your knuckles bad, not to mention bending and damaging other parts. So, buy some 3/8 PCV/fuel line hose (10" is more than enough**) when you buy a new valve, and cut the old hoses to get old valve off. Slice it up the sides so you can still use it to measure length for new hose.
*Hose on car.
** Thats what she said, anyway.
Originally posted by Bgohan
Replacing PCV valve is part of 60k tune up on Max. Other cars usually suggest to change it every time you change park plugs. It is probably just fine 95% of the time, but is a cheap part (usually less than $5.00). You can even clean it by soaking in carb cleaner to get by if you are broke or cheap, like me. Newer cars don't gunk them up fast because the engines run cleaner. If you have high mileage, it might gunk up faster. Also, if certain other parts fail, the valve will gunk up faster. It may not fail at 60k, but may fail at 114,198.6 miles, before you get around to changing plugs again, and give you fits and nightmnares and give a dealer an excuse to charge you $500 to "fix" your car after you cant figure out why it runs like crap.
Also, on the 4th gen, it is a bee-otch to change. It's in a tight spot and hoses are perma-stuck on the valve. *Yanking It can bust your knuckles bad, not to mention bending and damaging other parts. So, buy some 3/8 PCV/fuel line hose (10" is more than enough**) when you buy a new valve, and cut the old hoses to get old valve off. Slice it up the sides so you can still use it to measure length for new hose.
*Hose on car.
** Thats what she said, anyway.
Replacing PCV valve is part of 60k tune up on Max. Other cars usually suggest to change it every time you change park plugs. It is probably just fine 95% of the time, but is a cheap part (usually less than $5.00). You can even clean it by soaking in carb cleaner to get by if you are broke or cheap, like me. Newer cars don't gunk them up fast because the engines run cleaner. If you have high mileage, it might gunk up faster. Also, if certain other parts fail, the valve will gunk up faster. It may not fail at 60k, but may fail at 114,198.6 miles, before you get around to changing plugs again, and give you fits and nightmnares and give a dealer an excuse to charge you $500 to "fix" your car after you cant figure out why it runs like crap.
Also, on the 4th gen, it is a bee-otch to change. It's in a tight spot and hoses are perma-stuck on the valve. *Yanking It can bust your knuckles bad, not to mention bending and damaging other parts. So, buy some 3/8 PCV/fuel line hose (10" is more than enough**) when you buy a new valve, and cut the old hoses to get old valve off. Slice it up the sides so you can still use it to measure length for new hose.
*Hose on car.
** Thats what she said, anyway.
http://web.archive.org/web/200111091...k_service.html - see #6
Credit: Jeff Ketch
Guys this was from the great article on how to perform the 60k service on the max which is no longer hosted at integra.vtec.net. I am awaiting on permission from the author to host this on my website so us 4th genners can access it freely.
PCV Problems you say?
Two issues I had started when the PCV started sticking closed. When one sticks shut the internal pressure builds up inside your engine & blows out gaskets & seals creating oil leaks. Trust me, that pressure finds its way out.
Much easier/ cheaper changing a PCV valve than pulling the trans or engine to replace your rear main seal. Im lucky so far?
Ive seen it so many times and even watched people replace gaskets/seals only for it to happen again, oh and again...yup! Just wouldn't believe a crazy old man I guess? Ive only owned 200+ vehicles so I don't know much yet?..lol
PCV is one of the most overlooked parts under our hoods yet cost us thousands by ignoring it repeatedly. Old car owners manuals had maintenence schedules inside that listed PCV inspect/replace. When car makers still cared, in a galaxy far far away.(not a Ford Galaxy, I may want to return)
Also a sticky PCV can turn everything inside an engine bronze or copper toned when it fails. Heat builds up & breaks oil down similar to sludge but this heat isn't as high from PCV failures most times so its a very thin coating that usually wipes out of valve covers, pans etc much easier than actual sludge.
I can tell you from experience its not from too long of OC intervals. Mechs are too quick to sludge judge on the copper tone engines they see.
My wifes I30 has had Mobil 1 full syn 10k now 15k I think, all we used since new with 6k mile intervals. Its stick was was never stained till its PCV stuck. I changed its PCV around 80k, its at 155k now give or take? I saw how bad it was stained inside after pulling off my leaky valve cover. The oil pans leaking also, this car never leaked. PCV failed the shake test, Its the blue/white plastic USA made version, mines Beck branded but its found under most brand names.
The one I bought to replace mine broke in half right in my hand just pushing/turning it in the grommet. Im a disabled 63 yr old, Im no Arnold here guys/gals, these are absolute trash!
I bought a metal body design, very easy upgrade. My 2000 I30 3.0 V6 PCV is in the intake just under the throttle body fwiw.
Hard to see it but its in there. Stand by drivers front wheel with a flashlight at night you'll see it best. Look for the small/medium size hoses clamped together & follow them to their end, its on the bigger one looking straight in.
Peace
Much easier/ cheaper changing a PCV valve than pulling the trans or engine to replace your rear main seal. Im lucky so far?
Ive seen it so many times and even watched people replace gaskets/seals only for it to happen again, oh and again...yup! Just wouldn't believe a crazy old man I guess? Ive only owned 200+ vehicles so I don't know much yet?..lol
PCV is one of the most overlooked parts under our hoods yet cost us thousands by ignoring it repeatedly. Old car owners manuals had maintenence schedules inside that listed PCV inspect/replace. When car makers still cared, in a galaxy far far away.(not a Ford Galaxy, I may want to return)
Also a sticky PCV can turn everything inside an engine bronze or copper toned when it fails. Heat builds up & breaks oil down similar to sludge but this heat isn't as high from PCV failures most times so its a very thin coating that usually wipes out of valve covers, pans etc much easier than actual sludge.
I can tell you from experience its not from too long of OC intervals. Mechs are too quick to sludge judge on the copper tone engines they see.
My wifes I30 has had Mobil 1 full syn 10k now 15k I think, all we used since new with 6k mile intervals. Its stick was was never stained till its PCV stuck. I changed its PCV around 80k, its at 155k now give or take? I saw how bad it was stained inside after pulling off my leaky valve cover. The oil pans leaking also, this car never leaked. PCV failed the shake test, Its the blue/white plastic USA made version, mines Beck branded but its found under most brand names.
The one I bought to replace mine broke in half right in my hand just pushing/turning it in the grommet. Im a disabled 63 yr old, Im no Arnold here guys/gals, these are absolute trash!
I bought a metal body design, very easy upgrade. My 2000 I30 3.0 V6 PCV is in the intake just under the throttle body fwiw.
Hard to see it but its in there. Stand by drivers front wheel with a flashlight at night you'll see it best. Look for the small/medium size hoses clamped together & follow them to their end, its on the bigger one looking straight in.
Peace
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JoshG
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