DCmax

iTrader: (2)

I passed 5 of the 6 tests but the one I didnt was the 15 mph test for "NO ppm." I was barely over the limit. On all other tests I was well within range. I was close to failing the 25 mph "NO ppm" test but I passed.

The tech said that sometimes a clogged EGR will cause this problem but Im wondering if anyone can shed some more light on the subject before I go replacing the EGR.

Relevant info:

96 GXE 79k miles
NOS Dry Kit
Pretty much all the bolt-ons minus MEVI

Thanks

ch13f

I failed the first time on the machine, but we just tried again 2 minutes later and I passed. You probably already know, but getting your car really hot will help enough to pass. ie, drive hard for 30 mins before you get to the place and put your car right onto the emissions machine.. whatever its called..

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

are you guys lowered? how did you get up the machine? or was it built in the ground?

T-bone

iTrader: (1)

From my experience, 'the machine' is on the ground. You park your car on the rollers that allow you to take the car up to X speed or rpm while an emissions tool is placed in your tail pipe.

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

ok. Just wondering because I seen some shops here that have the smog dyno raised that you have to drive up a ramp to get on which I probably wont make it up.

Phoenix1911

A warm engine thats just been taken out for a rip will stand a better chance of passing the test. If your REALLY worried, run some alcohol in your fuel tank. You'd be suprised how much that helps.

DCmax

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE: I was going to get tested today again but I didnt have time. Tell me if you guys think this could be the culprit. I passed HC ppm (Hydrocarbon) and CO% (Carbon). Both of which I was well within range. The third test which is fairly new in Virginia is titled "NO ppm" which I have found stands for Nitrogen Oxides. I passed at 25 mph but barely and I barely failed at 15 mph.

Now, I didnt really run the car hard before I tested it on Monday which I will do tomorrow but I'm wondering if the NO ppm reading has to do with nitrous deposits floating around in my oil. My usual oil change interval is around 3k miles and this time I let it go to 4k. The only thing that has changed in that time period is the addition of my Nitrous kit. Since i had never heard anyone have any problems with Nitrous and emissions (although not many places have emissions standards as stringent as Northern Virginia) I hadn't thought about it previously.

I know Im ranting, but basically, I changed my oil yesterday from a 5w30 for the winter to a thicker 10w that I usually use all the time when it's not freezing. Does anyone think there could possibly be a correlation between nitrogen deposits in old oil causing me to fail the NO ppm section of my emissions test?

Thanks for reading

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Well, if the test is for nitrogen, I would think the nitrous kit is what's causing the problem.

NO ppm = Nitrogen oxide/parts per million??

Did you use the nitrous recently before you took the car in for inspection? Might need to find a way to clean out any residual nitrous stuck in your exhaust system.

- just a theory, since I'm not all that familiar w nitrous kits. -

DCmax

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, Nitrogen oxide/parts per million

The last time I used nitrous was 3/16/2003 at the track.

I guess the only way I could think of that would remove residual nitrous stuck in my exhaust system would be to burn it off by getting it hot. It's just that last weekend I drove 500+ miles on a trip out of town so I would think it would be gone by now.

The hope is that my EGR valve isnt clogged with nitrous or something.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Check the egr. It's related to nox emissions. Make sure you can move it fairly easy and make sure the vacuum line to it is not cracked/leaking. If you have a vacuum pump tester, that would really help confirm if it's working.

Not familar with the above? Buy a cheap Chiltons or Haynes.

ch13f

Its been 3 years since I took chemistry class, but im pretty sure "Nitrogen" and "Nitrous Oxide" are 2 completly different things at the molecular level... just don't spray while getting tested Like I said, run your car really hard for like 30 mins before the test and get right on the machine if possible. If you fail the first time, try once more right away. It couldn't hurt to fill up with 94 octane also, it should burn at a higher temperature.

DCmax

iTrader: (2)

On Thursday I took the test again and failed. This time I failed both NOX tests and 15 and 25 mph and my HC ppm at 25 mph was also a fail.

Prior to the 2nd test I changed my oil, adjusted my fuel pressure regulator to run lean (on the tech's recommendation) and ran the car hard for about 45 minutes prior to the test.

I also noticed that for some reason the limits were lower than the first time I took the test. After I failed, I asked the tech what was wrong and he said that once you fail a test the restrictions become greater.

I didn't think that sounded right so I went to work and called the state department of environmental quality. I was patched through to the dept director and he talked to me for a good 45 minutes.

He asked when I had my first test upon which I told him Monday. He said that the reason I had tougher restrictions this time is because on Tuesday, they made the restrictions harder. GREAT.

He also told me that the shop was wrong when they said to run the car lean. Basically he said that there is a window of which the catalyst can block harmful gasses. When the mixture is too lean, it tends to give you more NOX emissions and higher Hydrocarbon readings but lower carbon readings. When the mixture is slightly RICH it tends to give you lower NOX and HC but higher CO.

He said to look into cleaning or possibly replacing the EGR valve as has been recommended to me a couple of times. I think the valve is working properly but I don't currently have the time to remove my manifold to get to it and clean it/replace it. Especially since I am not failing miserably I thought I would go to my plan C.

After I failed the test the first time, I bought some G2P (Guaranteed to Pass) emissions formula which supposedly cleans out the EGR system and reduces NOX and CO emissions as well as other things or double your money back. Basically, you pour this stuff in after filling up a tank, run it to almost empty, fill up again and take the test. I started this process on Thursday night and I'm currently in the process of killing gas.

Since my plates run out on Tuesday, tomorrow I'm going to the DMV to get a 30-day extension. I also tuned my fuel pressure regulator back to stock specs and the next time I take the test I'll just get the car to operating temp and not drive it around the beltway like Richard Petty. My Dad thinks the new oil that I put in the night before I took the test the 2nd time could also have caused the higher HC content.

The first time I almost passed, I basically had everything the same as I have it now and the only thing I failed was NOX emissions barely and supposedly the G2P should take care of that. If this doesnt work then I'll look into the EGR or possible registering the car in another county.

Wow that was long.

Thanks for reading.

Slider

How many times can you take the test over there? Here it's only three. That g2p stuff is probably a good idea. The guy that installed my cat told me to put a couple bottles of injector cleaner in a few days before the test, but I didn't do it since i got a brand new cat. With my car the hc were like 4 times the limit. And I BARELY passed the hc second time right after i got the new cat, damn this thing. I wouldn't worry about it if I were you, you should pass no problem the next time with the g2p.

http://slider-gta.members.easyspace....s/emission.jpg

«§»Craig B«§»

iTrader: (5)

I had problems with my NOx ppm levels

I took off the EGR valve and really cleaned it out with throttle body cleaner until the fluid started coming back out clean. I sprayed inlet and outlet and also opened and closed the valve while I did that.
Get a new gasket for the valve too when you put it back on.

I went from 2000 something to 2 in NOx ppm just by cleaning it out.

hope that helps

Toolrocks

iTrader: (1)

A - I really don't think your oil is a factor unless you're burning a good bit of it, which I doubt. We'll check your EGR out when we do the gauges. Good luck w/ the test. Still no codes on the ECU? Did you reset the ECU when you installed the factory one back in?

DCmax

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I didnt think the oil had anything to do with it either but late night reading plus the fact that I was overdue led me to do it anyway.

No codes in the ECU, I didn't reset the ECU when I put the stock one back in but usually if there is a reason to have a CEL, the ECU shows it within about 20 miles, even after it's reset. As you know the JWT was showing the inhibitor error and even when I cleared it, the code would come back within 20 miles. The stock ECU showed the inhibitor error within the same period, and didnt go away until the inhibitor was fixed.

The director of the Virginia DEQ told me it was very common for cars in 96 which was the first year of OBD to have emissions problems but have no codes pop up.

DCmax

iTrader: (2)

I'm still trying to kill a tank of gas that I poured the G2P into but since my plates expired yesterday I went to the DMV and got an extension.

For anyone who may be interested in getting an emissions related extension, you are permitted a one-time extension provided you've never had one before (the cost was $4.17 and you get actual license plate stickers). I now have till the end of May to pass the emissions test.

izzydig

Barely passed my NOx limit myself a few weeks ago....the limit was 250...mine was 249. The tech did it twice. I have a WSP y-pipe...and let it run for about 30 mins...and it idle'd hot for 10 mins before tech took it in.

Think I'll have to clean out my EGR valve...even tho it tests good with a vacuum tester. Already replaced my BPT valve thingy. Need to buy new EGR gaskets as well....since I've messed with my intake manifold already. I'm also gettin a 0302 code.