ok so my car has started this new fun thing..

sometimes (50%) when i floor the car, the temp needle dives to about 25% and then when i get off of it, back to normal.

the car has new temp sensors (3months?) and i have no clue what else to think? i have pulled the harnesses and reclipped

not a big deal at all, just kind of curious whats up if others have had this?

 

its acting like an reversed boost guage.....

it sounds like a loose connection, or wires touching or being shorted out when the engine moves, or faulty/malfunctioning temp sensors, or the temp gauge itself is malfunctioning.....

does it happen when revving in neutral?

 

no and make that 50% that it happens, maybe 10% haha - but still enough, its the little things that bug me (along with the big ones.)

 

Does it fall like INSTANTLY (like so fast you can't see the needle move) or does it fall at a speed where you can see the needle move?

 

your sucking in air soo fast in the enviroment around your engine compartment that the ambient temperature due to the super fast air movement drops.......

 

instantly, jerks down, then jumps back to normal when i let off.

no biggie if no one has experienced it, looking for the quick answer if someone had the same thing --- i'll hunt this stupid issue down tom. probably , im sure it must be a loose connection or some junk.

 

It's a voltage/connection related problem. Chances are when you floor it it's creating a tugging/pulling on the connection. I forgot where that connection is, someone else should know. I once had mine wig out (it would only do it when I accellerated decently), I forgot where they told me the connection was.

 

Very common in 3rd gens, and the problem is due 99% of the time to air in the cooling system..

on both VG and VE engines, there's bleeder screws on the intake manifold (VG) or coolant piping near the t-stat (VE) in order to let the air out of the system after you start the car up... I'm sure there's one on the VQ too, somewhere.

wait till the engine cools off, then start the car and remove the bleeder screw. let the car idle until it comes up to operating temp, which it'll start to dribble air bubbles and coolant out. when there's no more bubbles oozing out of it, put the screw back in and top off the reservoir.

 

ahh thank you ,this makes sense.. it needs another flush anyways, somethin you cant do enough after a headgasket goes on you haha - poor radiator

 

I get the air out by leaving the radiator cap open while running the engine (which was started when cold of course). I let it idle for like twenty minutes, every so often just revvving it by flicking the cable on the throttle body. As I watch the coolant flow past in the radiator, you can see little bubbles rushing past. Once I don't see any more bubbles, I just top off the coolant and put the cap back on. I never knew there was a screw just for that purpose. It doesn't look like I needed it, either

DW