phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Is there a how-to on flushing and bleeding brakes? I just replaced my brake pads and now want to flush the lines. I do not have speedbleeders, but I will have a second person there to help. Should I just buy a Haynes manual? Is there a good online resource that is Maxima-specific?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

It's pretty simple. You don't even have to take the wheels off or jack up the car if it's not too low.

All you have to do is find the bleeding nut on the caliper. It's the 10MM nut with the rubber cap. I think it's towards the rear of the caliper but I can't remember for sure. It's easy to find. To bleed the system all you have to do is loosen that nut enough for fluid to come out (when brake pedal is pressed). Make sure you have a drain tube for that and a waste bottle. Tighten the nut once you see that there are no air bubbles in the line.

There is a certain order to do this. I know for 2k and 2k1 its the left-rear, right-front, right-rear, and left-front. Maybe someone knows what the order is for a 96. If you don't have ABS it doesn't matter what order you do it in though.

If you are draining out all the fluid then you pump out the old fluid first to completely drain it using the correct order (if applicable). And once you drain it from all four corners, then fill it up and proceed to bleed each corner until there is no air in the lines. This will take a couple times around though. And be sure to not let the reservior go dry. If that happens you have to start over.

Hope this helps.

Colonel

I thought the bleeding process was more related to line length rather than ABS? Can someone validate that?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Start at the right rear, open the bleeder and pump until the master cylinder is just about empty, don't let it run dry. Fill it up with clean fluid and pump again untill it's almost empty. By now you should be seeing some clean fluid coming from the right rear caliper. Fill the M/C up again and pump 3/4 of it back out. Close the bleeder and fill up the M/C. Now you have a clean reserve to draw from and one completely clean line. Do the remaining 3 calipers the same way, you will only need to pump about 1/2 of the M/C reserve to see clean fluid coming from the remaining 3 calipers since your drawing from nice fresh fluid in your M/C.

A $20 vacuume pump makes the job a one man DIY project.

XXXL Cracker

iTrader: (3)

Patrick:

It is really quite simple and you will definitely need two people.

Parts needed:
Brake Fluid - I used a Valvoline synthetic that was rated for our cars. I bought two 32 oz containers which is more than enough. I have an extra container of fluid I did not use.

Clear container at least able to hold 12 ounces of fluid

1 ft of rubber hose, not sure of the size, it will need to fit over the bleed screw of the caliper
Open ended wrench... there is a metric screw on the bleeder, I do not remeber the size.

Some shop towels in case you spill anything

Important items:

Do not let the master cylinder get dry. It is located in the engine bay in the rear corner on the driver's side.

Order of bleeding: R rear, R front, L rear, L front.

How to do this:

Remove the wheel, locate the bleeder valve. It has a small rubber cap on it. Remove the cap, do not lose this as you will need to put it back on when you are done. Keep it clean.

There is a nut right behind the nipple on the bleeder valve. You will need to loosen and tighten this. When it is loose, it will allow brake fluid to exit the brake system. Loosen this until you see a drop of fluid come out of the valve. Then tighten it enough to just close it. Grab your clear container and fill it about two inches with clean fluid. Using this container will prevent air from entering the brake system. You do not want air to enter as you will not be able to stop properly.

Slide your hose over the nipple on the end of the bleeder screw.
Place the other end of the hose into your clear container with the clean fluid in it. This end should remain under the fluid surface until you finish bleeding each caliper.

You are now ready to bleed. Tell your helper to push the brake to the floor. Open up the bleeder, you will see dark colored fluid come out. Tell him to release. Close valve.

Repeat this process one or two more times. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder.

Take the cap off of the master cyliner and add fresh fluid. Continue to bleed and add fresh fluid unitl clear fluid is coming out of the back bleeder. Make sure you keep the cap on the master cylinder. Brake fluid is atttracted to moisture and you do not want to get any moisture in the system. You will know you are done with that caliper whne you start to see clear fluid coming out of your hose.

Empty the dirty fluid from your container after you do each brake to prevent any contamination in the system. You do not want a mix of old and new fluid.

Repeat the process on each caliper.

Pat yourself on the back as you have just flushed the old fluid out of your brake system.

Start the car and depress the brake pedal several times. It should not be spongy. The brake should feel firm after pumping it two or three times.

I just threw this together quickly. If you have any questions PM or email me. This is very simple process and I noticed an great imporvement in braking after the flush. I did have very dirty fluid in the prior to the flush

D

optimus1

shouldn't you close the bleeder before he releases, as to prevent drawing fluid back in thru the bleeder?

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

One man job, easy as pie
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....essure+bleeder

karguy

[QUOTE]Originally posted by foodmanry
[B]

It's pretty simple. You don't even have to take the wheels off or jack up the car if it's not too low.

There is a certain order to do this. I know for 2k and 2k1 its the left-rear, right-front, right-rear, and left-front. Maybe someone knows what the order is for a 96. If you don't have ABS it doesn't matter what order you do it in though.

Bleeding sequence for 4th gen is RR - LF, LR - RF.

fisher01

iTrader: (1)

Yes, thats the way I've always done bleeding. Close the bleeder screw before your partner releases the brake pedal.

XXXL Cracker

iTrader: (3)

Ooops....... thanks Maxima.org editors.....I will do better next time.

Definitely close the valve then release....
D

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by karguy
[B]Isn't it DR, PR, PF, DF? I thought the idea was the bleed starting at the furthest point from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest.
-hype

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

PR
DR
PF
DF

DR is still closer than PR.

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

Yeah you're right; I typed it wrong But my logic is correct right?
-hype