I think my valves are floating above 6700RPM, I may need JWT Valvesprings
#1
I think my valves are floating above 6700RPM, I may need JWT Valvesprings
I've noticed this the few times I've gotten on it in the last 2 weeks. Above about an indicated 6700 or 6800 the car starts bucking a little bit, acceleration cuts out and back in in rapid succession and I can actually hear my intake tone changing in concert with the slight lurching. This has just started within the last 2 weeks and only happens above 6700 or 6800RPM. I've never experienced valve float before, but something tells me that's what this is. Perhaps my 140K mile valve springs have just about had it.
So, the real questions. First and most importantly, is our motor and interference motor. Namely am I going to bend valves and ruin my pistons and sleeves here.
Second, how involved is the installation of valvesprings on the VQ.
So, the real questions. First and most importantly, is our motor and interference motor. Namely am I going to bend valves and ruin my pistons and sleeves here.
Second, how involved is the installation of valvesprings on the VQ.
#2
You haven't been doing any high speed runs deep into the redline by any chance have you? If so you can/will kill the engine completely I did the samething 3 years ago and the damage wasn't pretty. All valves are bent #2 exhaust valve broke at the stem, the rocker was destroyed and the piston had a nice hole in it .
#3
Neal if I were in your shoes, id save up a little bit of cash. Ill post tomorrow eactly how involved (labor time) the valve springs are gonna be. If you find that you got a few extra $ laying around and the involvemt is quite a bit, just get the JWT cams as well as some springs, lightweight valves, ect... and do the eitire job all at one time. Looks like you gonna be into it atleast $2k if that is the route you choose to go. I say just live with it and dont race til you fet the cash for the job and do it right if the involvment it too many hrs. Ill post tomorrow how long you should expect the job to be.
#4
Re: I think my valves are floating above 6700RPM, I may need JWT Valvesprings
Originally posted by Nealoc187
I've noticed this the few times I've gotten on it in the last 2 weeks. Above about an indicated 6700 or 6800 the car starts bucking a little bit, acceleration cuts out and back in in rapid succession and I can actually hear my intake tone changing in concert with the slight lurching. This has just started within the last 2 weeks and only happens above 6700 or 6800RPM. I've never experienced valve float before, but something tells me that's what this is. Perhaps my 140K mile valve springs have just about had it.
So, the real questions. First and most importantly, is our motor and interference motor. Namely am I going to bend valves and ruin my pistons and sleeves here.
Second, how involved is the installation of valvesprings on the VQ.
I've noticed this the few times I've gotten on it in the last 2 weeks. Above about an indicated 6700 or 6800 the car starts bucking a little bit, acceleration cuts out and back in in rapid succession and I can actually hear my intake tone changing in concert with the slight lurching. This has just started within the last 2 weeks and only happens above 6700 or 6800RPM. I've never experienced valve float before, but something tells me that's what this is. Perhaps my 140K mile valve springs have just about had it.
So, the real questions. First and most importantly, is our motor and interference motor. Namely am I going to bend valves and ruin my pistons and sleeves here.
Second, how involved is the installation of valvesprings on the VQ.
#5
Re: Re: I think my valves are floating above 6700RPM, I may need JWT Valvesprings
Originally posted by SR20DEN
I would say they are floating for sure.The VQ is more than likely an interference motor so you don't want to let them float too much or you will cause damage. On a newer VQ30 the float doesn't happen till about 7500 and it sounds quite nasty. You probably dont even want to know what all you have to go through to change them.
I would say they are floating for sure.The VQ is more than likely an interference motor so you don't want to let them float too much or you will cause damage. On a newer VQ30 the float doesn't happen till about 7500 and it sounds quite nasty. You probably dont even want to know what all you have to go through to change them.
#6
Re: I think my valves are floating above 6700RPM, I may need JWT Valvesprings
And I have my JWT ECU coming!! OH NO!
Originally posted by Nealoc187
I've noticed this the few times I've gotten on it in the last 2 weeks. Above about an indicated 6700 or 6800 the car starts bucking a little bit, acceleration cuts out and back in in rapid succession and I can actually hear my intake tone changing in concert with the slight lurching. This has just started within the last 2 weeks and only happens above 6700 or 6800RPM. I've never experienced valve float before, but something tells me that's what this is. Perhaps my 140K mile valve springs have just about had it.
So, the real questions. First and most importantly, is our motor and interference motor. Namely am I going to bend valves and ruin my pistons and sleeves here.
Second, how involved is the installation of valvesprings on the VQ.
I've noticed this the few times I've gotten on it in the last 2 weeks. Above about an indicated 6700 or 6800 the car starts bucking a little bit, acceleration cuts out and back in in rapid succession and I can actually hear my intake tone changing in concert with the slight lurching. This has just started within the last 2 weeks and only happens above 6700 or 6800RPM. I've never experienced valve float before, but something tells me that's what this is. Perhaps my 140K mile valve springs have just about had it.
So, the real questions. First and most importantly, is our motor and interference motor. Namely am I going to bend valves and ruin my pistons and sleeves here.
Second, how involved is the installation of valvesprings on the VQ.
#7
Re: Re: Re: I think my valves are floating above 6700RPM, I may need JWT Valvesprings
Originally posted by HitManSE
Unless you have taken apart and cylinder head and slapped it back on with a good outcome I would stay away from doing this job myself.
Unless you have taken apart and cylinder head and slapped it back on with a good outcome I would stay away from doing this job myself.
#8
Re: I think my valves are floating above 6700RPM, I may need JWT Valvesprings
Originally posted by Nealoc187
I've noticed this the few times I've gotten on it in the last 2 weeks. Above about an indicated 6700 or 6800 the car starts bucking a little bit, acceleration cuts out and back in in rapid succession and I can actually hear my intake tone changing in concert with the slight lurching. This has just started within the last 2 weeks and only happens above 6700 or 6800RPM. I've never experienced valve float before, but something tells me that's what this is. Perhaps my 140K mile valve springs have just about had it.
So, the real questions. First and most importantly, is our motor and interference motor. Namely am I going to bend valves and ruin my pistons and sleeves here.
Second, how involved is the installation of valvesprings on the VQ.
I've noticed this the few times I've gotten on it in the last 2 weeks. Above about an indicated 6700 or 6800 the car starts bucking a little bit, acceleration cuts out and back in in rapid succession and I can actually hear my intake tone changing in concert with the slight lurching. This has just started within the last 2 weeks and only happens above 6700 or 6800RPM. I've never experienced valve float before, but something tells me that's what this is. Perhaps my 140K mile valve springs have just about had it.
So, the real questions. First and most importantly, is our motor and interference motor. Namely am I going to bend valves and ruin my pistons and sleeves here.
Second, how involved is the installation of valvesprings on the VQ.
Plus, I need that info for an argument I've been having with a co-worker.
#9
Re: Re: Re: Re: I think my valves are floating above 6700RPM, I may need JWT Valvesprings
Originally posted by SR20DEN
Changing the springs themselves is the easy part. But to actually get to them is the hard part. It's like trying to walk through a maze and the exit door is on the other side of a glass wall in front of you. You can see it but must walk several miles out of your way to get to it.
Changing the springs themselves is the easy part. But to actually get to them is the hard part. It's like trying to walk through a maze and the exit door is on the other side of a glass wall in front of you. You can see it but must walk several miles out of your way to get to it.
#11
Re: Re: I think my valves are floating above 6700RPM, I may need JWT Valvesprings
selfish
Originally posted by IceY2K1
PLEASE please get a dyno. Otherwise, you're going to throw away lots of money on BS you probably don't need. It could be soOOO many other things.
Plus, I need that info for an argument I've been having with a co-worker.
PLEASE please get a dyno. Otherwise, you're going to throw away lots of money on BS you probably don't need. It could be soOOO many other things.
Plus, I need that info for an argument I've been having with a co-worker.
#14
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
IMHO, it would be easier and cheeper to just get a low milage used VQ from a newer model and swap the whole motor. Been their, done that!
IMHO, it would be easier and cheeper to just get a low milage used VQ from a newer model and swap the whole motor. Been their, done that!
#15
What about getting a spare set of low mileage heads and swapping those? Would that be an easier prospect than changing the valvesprings on my current heads? My ability isn't a concern, I'm confident between myself and guys I know I can handle the install, it's the downtime and money that worries me. My winter beater died a few months ago.
Mardigras how long did your motor swap take you back when you did it?
SR20DEN I believe I recall you mentioning something about valvespring shims to help stave off float. I assume that this would require the disassembly of the heads anyways so it's probably a moot point but I thought I'd ask.
This might be a blessing in disguise afterall, maybe by the end of the summer I'll have a built set of heads on my VQ
Mardigras how long did your motor swap take you back when you did it?
SR20DEN I believe I recall you mentioning something about valvespring shims to help stave off float. I assume that this would require the disassembly of the heads anyways so it's probably a moot point but I thought I'd ask.
This might be a blessing in disguise afterall, maybe by the end of the summer I'll have a built set of heads on my VQ
#16
Getting low-mileage heads would be eaiser to do then the springs would. That way its just the heads that come off and just slap on a new pair. Ive alread stated what I think about the stock valves in my last most. If you do get a set of low-mileage heads as you know it would be smarter to just build those head with thougher springs, lighter valves, polished ports, cams you know the whole 9 yrds.
If everything goes perfectly the downtime should be no longer then 2days and thats still kinda pushing it. It is possible to complete in 1 day but id rather take my time and do something correctly then do it twice you know what I mean.
The motor swap itself shouldnt take as long as R&R the vlaves would.
I know for a fact the whole motor taken out, completly disassembled, reassembled, and re installed is a 29.9hr job in the Labor book. The car will be down for a minimum of two days, and thats if you guys are working on the car most if the time so it will be more downtime then that obviously. If you want exact labor times for anything just post them all here and Ill give you the times on monday, im off til then though. Same goes for the torque spec if you dont already know them.
If everything goes perfectly the downtime should be no longer then 2days and thats still kinda pushing it. It is possible to complete in 1 day but id rather take my time and do something correctly then do it twice you know what I mean.
The motor swap itself shouldnt take as long as R&R the vlaves would.
I know for a fact the whole motor taken out, completly disassembled, reassembled, and re installed is a 29.9hr job in the Labor book. The car will be down for a minimum of two days, and thats if you guys are working on the car most if the time so it will be more downtime then that obviously. If you want exact labor times for anything just post them all here and Ill give you the times on monday, im off til then though. Same goes for the torque spec if you dont already know them.
#17
Originally posted by HitManSE
Getting low-mileage heads would be eaiser to do then the springs would. That way its just the heads that come off and just slap on a new pair. Ive alread stated what I think about the stock valves in my last most. If you do get a set of low-mileage heads as you know it would be smarter to just build those head with thougher springs, lighter valves, polished ports, cams you know the whole 9 yrds.
If everything goes perfectly the downtime should be no longer then 2days and thats still kinda pushing it. It is possible to complete in 1 day but id rather take my time and do something correctly then do it twice you know what I mean.
The motor swap itself shouldnt take as long as R&R the vlaves would.
I know for a fact the whole motor taken out, completly disassembled, reassembled, and re installed is a 29.9hr job in the Labor book. The car will be down for a minimum of two days, and thats if you guys are working on the car most if the time so it will be more downtime then that obviously. If you want exact labor times for anything just post them all here and Ill give you the times on monday, im off til then though. Same goes for the torque spec if you dont already know them.
Getting low-mileage heads would be eaiser to do then the springs would. That way its just the heads that come off and just slap on a new pair. Ive alread stated what I think about the stock valves in my last most. If you do get a set of low-mileage heads as you know it would be smarter to just build those head with thougher springs, lighter valves, polished ports, cams you know the whole 9 yrds.
If everything goes perfectly the downtime should be no longer then 2days and thats still kinda pushing it. It is possible to complete in 1 day but id rather take my time and do something correctly then do it twice you know what I mean.
The motor swap itself shouldnt take as long as R&R the vlaves would.
I know for a fact the whole motor taken out, completly disassembled, reassembled, and re installed is a 29.9hr job in the Labor book. The car will be down for a minimum of two days, and thats if you guys are working on the car most if the time so it will be more downtime then that obviously. If you want exact labor times for anything just post them all here and Ill give you the times on monday, im off til then though. Same goes for the torque spec if you dont already know them.
#18
Does this mean that having a 7k redline w/the JWT ecu is dangerous? I don't redline to 7k very often, but w/the VI it feels almost nescessary, my engine only has 62k miles on it, but i'd still be concerned if I could cause any potential damage.
#19
I haven't heard of anyone else having trouble. I've probably got the highest mileage car out of the MEVI/JWT crew so it might just be old age arthritis for my motor. Time for some surgery.
#20
Originally posted by Nealoc187
SR20DEN I believe I recall you mentioning something about valvespring shims to help stave off float. I assume that this would require the disassembly of the heads anyways so it's probably a moot point but I thought I'd ask.
SR20DEN I believe I recall you mentioning something about valvespring shims to help stave off float. I assume that this would require the disassembly of the heads anyways so it's probably a moot point but I thought I'd ask.
Yes it would help but I failed to mention the excessive labor involved in actually getting to them.
Originally posted by Nealoc187
Even though I've had only 2 days to think about it, I'm kindof leaning towards the idea of getting a spare set of heads and doing a little bit of work on them. Perhaps milling them down to raise compression, and cleaning them up, and sending the cams off to ISKY or Crower or someone to be reground. May as well do the springs while I'm in there. Not sure if this would require an ECU reprogram, but if it did, I'd send my ECU back to JWT and go even higher on the rev limiter and probably raise the idle a bit.
Even though I've had only 2 days to think about it, I'm kindof leaning towards the idea of getting a spare set of heads and doing a little bit of work on them. Perhaps milling them down to raise compression, and cleaning them up, and sending the cams off to ISKY or Crower or someone to be reground. May as well do the springs while I'm in there. Not sure if this would require an ECU reprogram, but if it did, I'd send my ECU back to JWT and go even higher on the rev limiter and probably raise the idle a bit.
If you get a second set of heads don't skimp out and still use the stock springs. Crane probably makes a spring that will fit. You could even contract them to make you some +1mm lightweight or better valves. I know they already make them for several Jap motors including the SR20DE.
On the ECU front you may as well leave it alone unless they give you a super deal on a new progam AND you can have them custom tune your car at their facility. To me it sounds as if you should start looking into a standalone system such as a learnable TEC-III or perhaps a MOTEC. Electromotive and MOTEC both have facilites with 45 mins of my house so if any of them did you wrong I could go crack some skulls if need be.
#21
Originally posted by Nealoc187
Even though I've had only 2 days to think about it, I'm kindof leaning towards the idea of getting a spare set of heads and doing a little bit of work on them. Perhaps milling them down to raise compression, and cleaning them up, and sending the cams off to ISKY or Crower or someone to be reground. May as well do the springs while I'm in there. Not sure if this would require an ECU reprogram, but if it did, I'd send my ECU back to JWT and go even higher on the rev limiter and probably raise the idle a bit.
Even though I've had only 2 days to think about it, I'm kindof leaning towards the idea of getting a spare set of heads and doing a little bit of work on them. Perhaps milling them down to raise compression, and cleaning them up, and sending the cams off to ISKY or Crower or someone to be reground. May as well do the springs while I'm in there. Not sure if this would require an ECU reprogram, but if it did, I'd send my ECU back to JWT and go even higher on the rev limiter and probably raise the idle a bit.
#22
You could drop some serious $$ and have the combustion chamber redesigned to gain compression too along with headwork. For the ECU unless you have access to a consult and do timing sweeps on a dyno, it is a shot in the dark unless you can drive to JWT that is . If you have any contacts/friends at a nissan dealer, use whatever means at your disposal to get that CONSULT . With the CONSULT I believe you can adjust the timing from 13-17*BTDC if stock is 15*BTDC +/- 2*. The se-r guys did this when JWT first came out with cams and found that the cams make more topend power with less timing, but more midrange with more timing.
Originally posted by Nealoc187
Even though I've had only 2 days to think about it, I'm kindof leaning towards the idea of getting a spare set of heads and doing a little bit of work on them. Perhaps milling them down to raise compression, and cleaning them up, and sending the cams off to ISKY or Crower or someone to be reground. May as well do the springs while I'm in there. Not sure if this would require an ECU reprogram, but if it did, I'd send my ECU back to JWT and go even higher on the rev limiter and probably raise the idle a bit.
Even though I've had only 2 days to think about it, I'm kindof leaning towards the idea of getting a spare set of heads and doing a little bit of work on them. Perhaps milling them down to raise compression, and cleaning them up, and sending the cams off to ISKY or Crower or someone to be reground. May as well do the springs while I'm in there. Not sure if this would require an ECU reprogram, but if it did, I'd send my ECU back to JWT and go even higher on the rev limiter and probably raise the idle a bit.
#23
Originally posted by Nismo87SE
You could drop some serious $$ and have the combustion chamber redesigned to gain compression too along with headwork. For the ECU unless you have access to a consult and do timing sweeps on a dyno, it is a shot in the dark unless you can drive to JWT that is . If you have any contacts/friends at a nissan dealer, use whatever means at your disposal to get that CONSULT . With the CONSULT I believe you can adjust the timing from 13-17*BTDC if stock is 15*BTDC +/- 2*. The se-r guys did this when JWT first came out with cams and found that the cams make more topend power with less timing, but more midrange with more timing.
You could drop some serious $$ and have the combustion chamber redesigned to gain compression too along with headwork. For the ECU unless you have access to a consult and do timing sweeps on a dyno, it is a shot in the dark unless you can drive to JWT that is . If you have any contacts/friends at a nissan dealer, use whatever means at your disposal to get that CONSULT . With the CONSULT I believe you can adjust the timing from 13-17*BTDC if stock is 15*BTDC +/- 2*. The se-r guys did this when JWT first came out with cams and found that the cams make more topend power with less timing, but more midrange with more timing.
#24
Originally posted by Nealoc187
I was under the impression changes made to the timing with the CONSULT revert back to default once you unhook the car from the CONSULT. Is this not the case?
I was under the impression changes made to the timing with the CONSULT revert back to default once you unhook the car from the CONSULT. Is this not the case?
#25
sounds like some $$$$$ is going into the fastest NA Max...good luck with everything Neal...
with 95k miles and a limited budget I wonder if I should invest in MEVI and ECU like I had planned. I definitely don't think I could handle putting money into the Max like it sounds like you are going to have to do. I plan on selling my car when I graduate school at stock specs so this kind of work might be out of my league.
with 95k miles and a limited budget I wonder if I should invest in MEVI and ECU like I had planned. I definitely don't think I could handle putting money into the Max like it sounds like you are going to have to do. I plan on selling my car when I graduate school at stock specs so this kind of work might be out of my league.
#27
Originally posted by I30tMikeD
Do the age of the valve springs really make a difference on whether the valves float or not? I really don't want to run into this problem with the JWT ECU. I have 100K.
Do the age of the valve springs really make a difference on whether the valves float or not? I really don't want to run into this problem with the JWT ECU. I have 100K.
#28
Originally posted by HitManSE
Not really, but it doesnt help thats 4 sure. You cam make a motor with less the 10K on it float the valves if you rev it high enough. Look at all those M3's blowing their motors latley. They are revving them to nearly 9K, the valves are floating and the blocks are being destroyed. If your engine is not prepped to take hi-rpm abuse then revving over the stock redline is not really the best idea.
Not really, but it doesnt help thats 4 sure. You cam make a motor with less the 10K on it float the valves if you rev it high enough. Look at all those M3's blowing their motors latley. They are revving them to nearly 9K, the valves are floating and the blocks are being destroyed. If your engine is not prepped to take hi-rpm abuse then revving over the stock redline is not really the best idea.
Yeah those new M motors stretch rods at 9k. Not recommended to take them past the redline for any reason. The VQ35 has been proven to handle over 9k in stock form though.
#30
Originally posted by luckee2bhere
I revved my car to about 9k RPM when I first got it. Redline 3rd..slammed 2nd...ouch! Sound made me want to :bawling
I revved my car to about 9k RPM when I first got it. Redline 3rd..slammed 2nd...ouch! Sound made me want to :bawling
#31
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
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Originally posted by HitManSE
Not really, but it doesnt help thats 4 sure. You cam make a motor with less the 10K on it float the valves if you rev it high enough. Look at all those M3's blowing their motors latley. They are revving them to nearly 9K, the valves are floating and the blocks are being destroyed. If your engine is not prepped to take hi-rpm abuse then revving over the stock redline is not really the best idea.
Not really, but it doesnt help thats 4 sure. You cam make a motor with less the 10K on it float the valves if you rev it high enough. Look at all those M3's blowing their motors latley. They are revving them to nearly 9K, the valves are floating and the blocks are being destroyed. If your engine is not prepped to take hi-rpm abuse then revving over the stock redline is not really the best idea.
If he was going to float his valves I thought it would have been at his 7200 rev limiter.
Shifting from 2nd to 5th at the track.....that's what I did the first 3 times I ran the 1/4 mile
#32
Update
Now I'm not so sure what's going on. I was feeling daring last night so I went out and made some runs through the gears. In all I went through 7200 in 2nd probably 20 times, through 7200 in 3rd 15 times, and through redline in 4th 5 times. Out of all these blasts through redline, only ONCE did I experience what I described in my first post. WTF. Now I don't know what to do. I think I may still build a set of heads anyways just to make some more power and stave off float if indeed that is what I'm occasionally experiencing. I think I need to get it on a dyno.
Now I'm not so sure what's going on. I was feeling daring last night so I went out and made some runs through the gears. In all I went through 7200 in 2nd probably 20 times, through 7200 in 3rd 15 times, and through redline in 4th 5 times. Out of all these blasts through redline, only ONCE did I experience what I described in my first post. WTF. Now I don't know what to do. I think I may still build a set of heads anyways just to make some more power and stave off float if indeed that is what I'm occasionally experiencing. I think I need to get it on a dyno.
#34
Originally posted by Nealoc187
Update
Now I'm not so sure what's going on. I was feeling daring last night so I went out and made some runs through the gears. In all I went through 7200 in 2nd probably 20 times, through 7200 in 3rd 15 times, and through redline in 4th 5 times. Out of all these blasts through redline, only ONCE did I experience what I described in my first post. WTF. Now I don't know what to do. I think I may still build a set of heads anyways just to make some more power and stave off float if indeed that is what I'm occasionally experiencing. I think I need to get it on a dyno.
Update
Now I'm not so sure what's going on. I was feeling daring last night so I went out and made some runs through the gears. In all I went through 7200 in 2nd probably 20 times, through 7200 in 3rd 15 times, and through redline in 4th 5 times. Out of all these blasts through redline, only ONCE did I experience what I described in my first post. WTF. Now I don't know what to do. I think I may still build a set of heads anyways just to make some more power and stave off float if indeed that is what I'm occasionally experiencing. I think I need to get it on a dyno.
Get a dyno!!
#35
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Get a dyno!!
Get a dyno!!
I30tMikeD: The age will effect it but it all depends on how far past the redline the motor is revved. Neal go get a dyno, but id still build the heads if I were you.
#36
JWT has springs for our cars?
Has anyone found lighter valves? I am taking my heads into the shop here in the next couple days just to see what they could do. If someone already makes valves, I might get those for the job.
Has anyone found lighter valves? I am taking my heads into the shop here in the next couple days just to see what they could do. If someone already makes valves, I might get those for the job.
#37
Originally posted by HitManSE
Honestly, he doesn't know if it's valve float, a fuel delivery issue, a hole in the JWT ECU map, or what.
I just feel like he's running around in circles and going to throw away lots of money by ASSuming it's tired valve springs.
I'm not saying a dyno will tell all, just that would be MY choice as a FIRST step in his situation.
Good luck Neal!
#38
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Honestly, he doesn't know if it's valve float, a fuel delivery issue, a hole in the JWT ECU map, or what.
I just feel like he's running around in circles and going to throw away lots of money by ASSuming it's tired valve springs.
I'm not saying a dyno will tell all, just that would be MY choice as a FIRST step in his situation.
Good luck Neal!
Honestly, he doesn't know if it's valve float, a fuel delivery issue, a hole in the JWT ECU map, or what.
I just feel like he's running around in circles and going to throw away lots of money by ASSuming it's tired valve springs.
I'm not saying a dyno will tell all, just that would be MY choice as a FIRST step in his situation.
Good luck Neal!
knock on wood.
#39
Sweeeeeet!
Originally posted by Nealoc187
I've already thrown away lots of money on this car. What's another grand. It's only money I'll dyno once I get my new exhaust hopefully this friday.
knock on wood.
I've already thrown away lots of money on this car. What's another grand. It's only money I'll dyno once I get my new exhaust hopefully this friday.
knock on wood.
Make SURE you get the wideband 02 graph also.
#40
Re: Sweeeeeet!
Originally posted by IceY2K1
I hope you can repeat the "valve float" you think you are experiencing on the dyno.
Make SURE you get the wideband 02 graph also.
I hope you can repeat the "valve float" you think you are experiencing on the dyno.
Make SURE you get the wideband 02 graph also.