Nismo87SE

Sorry to hear that you blown the motor but it's all part of the game. Also I have to say that VG powa ownz j00!. I wish I could turbo a VQ/VG/VE/SR20DE .

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

that sounds very fimiliar.....hmmmm...

congrats on the dyno and looking forward to hit 400whp?

I just installed my Defi fuel pressure gauge over the weekend.....pretty nice and it is in PSI too.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Yup, still not tuned yet. I was just about to mess with the AFC but the car turned into a .

Next? Reinstall new Aquamist pump... finish up NX install and squeeze the crap out of the motor until it blows. Make or break... 375 whp.


What happened to your sig?


No problem. I'm still driving the car and it feels just as strong.

Nice dyno! Is that on a Max?


Yeah, sounds familiar.

400 whp? With nitrous it's possible, but I don't want to turn up the boost. It will overwork the injectors.

Yeah, your Defi gauge looks nice!

joaquink

This is your punishment for going the route instead of the sleeper route.

Sorry to hear about this. If mine goes too there'll be a pretty nice 97 available for spare parts.

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

Kevin : I didnt read the entire post that I was shocked when I heard it from you. sorry to hear about the dying cylinder.

maxxboost00 has problem on the same cylinder. Do you think it is just coincident?

please let me know if I can help you in anyway.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

It's alright, I'm not stressing over the weak cylinder.

Craig Mack

I have come to grips with myself that my blower is too superior for my engine. A compressor as big as the V1/V2 belongs on a 5.0 stang, not a 3.0 Maxima. It seems Vortech specializes in Domestics, and just hooked one of those blowers to our cars.

So in actuality the Supercharger Compressor 0WNZ the Turbo in air movement, but I guess too much of a good thing is really a bad thing.

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

you still boosting daily?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

So that means you're not fully utilizing the blower's potential. Not landing and staying in the center island on the compressor map is a good thing? If you say.


Driving like nothing happened... so yes.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

I can't believe that pump died. Did you run it dry and burn it up? Did you have to pay for a new one? If so, how much?

Also, I wonder if there is a way to measure injector pulsewidth withOUT a Consult-II. I guess you don't need too, IF you limit the fuel pressure to XXXpsi and the A/F ratio starts rising/approaching 13:1, you've tapped them out, right? Have you determined if larger injectors from a VQ35DE or RC Engineering will make some to fit?

BTW, when you build a new motor, do you plan on SWAIN coating?

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

ic....I remembered you showed me you EGT after the TC isntalled...the reading was peaked at 680c. Are you looking into getting a new gauge or just replace the probe?

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

I'm wondering if you should perform a leakdown test on #6 to figure out what's gone awry.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

I am loving that torque your putting out looking very very nice

3.0HO

Approx 17% loss on 5th gen 5spds. I calculate approx 383HP to the crank actually.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

I'm not

You're not going to fix the motor if it blows?


It just died... never ran it dry because I always top off after 2 gas fill-ups. New pump was $300, but I'm going to ask them to warranty the broken pump so I can sell it.

I don't understand your first question in the second paragraph. The VQ35DE injectors are slightly different than VQ30DE-K. RC does not have any injectors for our car. The only injector that is remotely close are 1/2" longer than stock.


Nope, not getting a new gauge. I'll fix the Tomei and use both EGT and A/F. The probe works fine.


I'm thinking bad piston ring.

Vacuum at idle is still strong at 21 in Hg. No weird smoke coming from tail pipe either. No oil in the coolant reservoir.


Time for you to switch.

joaquink

I think I'd have to call it quits at that point and find something new. At least that's where I'm at right now.

Deny it all you want but you have fallen victim to....

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Basically, you don't know if you are maxing your injectors, you're just assuming, right? A Consult-II can tell you pulsewidth or if you set your FMU to whatever disk(6:1, 8:1, etc..), max your AFC, and fuel pressure hits say 80psi at 10psi of boost max, but you're still running lean up top. The injectors must not be able to keep up. Just a thought.

Get a cylinder leakage tester from JC Whitney. Then look for where there is an air leak.

Oil cap/breather = Piston/Piston Rings
Header/tailpipe = Exhaust valve(s)
Intake/throttle-body = Intake valve(s)
Adjoining cylinder = Head gasket

Are you going to SWAIN coat the new engine internals? At least the piston tops and skirts, right?

AntGVR4

Less compression just means you have to run more BOOST

I didn't read it all but
If you are running a Walbro 255 then you should consider a SupraTT fuel pump. I know the walbro 190, 255 and SupraTT pump are interchangble in my case.
Otherwise give SX a call and inquire about their external pumps

Also, something I do once a week
Boost Leak Test.
Good Luck with the Setup Kev.

Ant

yongjun

Keep at it Kev.
I'm sure you will get everything fixed

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Quiter...




Lean up top? The leanest point up top is 12:1. The injectors are not "maxed" out yet, since I'm still able to turn up the fuel pressure with the FMU. The pressure is not ideal, but the injectors can still give more.

The new motor will have the works and I'm going to do it right because I don't want to be doing it again. I'm thinking of going with a straight 3.0, but Delio is convincing me to go hybrid.


I've considered a 300ZX TT pump but I didn't know the SupraTT pump would fit. Thanks for the info! Do you know how much power is that pump rated for on the Supra?

I actually have a BIG Bosch external pump capable of flowing more than enough fuel at 140 psi, but I can't seem to find the correct fitting to work with the Max. The thread on the pump is metric and all I can find are standard threaded fittings.

Man, you have a lot of time to be doing weekly leakdown tests.


I'm not worried, and I know everything will be fixed in due time. :-)

matt calder

iTrader: (2)

I am now faster than jOO.


oh and I have always been cooler.........heh


Good numbers but you can do better

MAXIN

iTrader: (5)

Does this flow better then the walbro 255 high pressure? Got a link to a site with prices and specs?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

j00 more than me.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Theoretically. If you max out the FMU, AFC, and keep adding boost, it will max the injectors(ie static) and begin going leaner and leaner up top until *kaboom*. You mentioned that you didn't want to turn up the boost to hit 400whp, because you would overwork the injectors. I'd like to know at what point that happens. What is your peak fuel pressure at 10psi?

Have JWT assemble and prep it then. I'd buy all the components and drop them off. Otherwise, find a REPUTABLE engine builder. You can follow in Turtles tracks and keep rebuilding it yourself or have it done once. Hybrid? VQ35 block/heads and -K manifold?

AntGVR4

Here you go sir

JZA80 TT Fuel Pump
PN# 23221-46110 (pump)
PN# 23217-46110 (gas filter)
Nippondenso PN# 195130 - 1020 (same as RX7 twin turbo)

260 lph @ 43 PSI @ 12 volts (tested)
290 lph @ 42 PSI @ 13.5 volts (tested)
230 lph @ 71 PSI @ 13.5 volts (tested)


Walbro Fuel Pump
213 lph @ 40 PSI @ 12 volts
255 lph @ 40 PSI @ 13.5 volts

I've seen Walbro 255 pumps supply enough fuel for 450 All wheel horsepower, the Supra pump will outflow that so.... I don't know how much power you want to put down but that should be enough.

As far as fitting I'm sure your checked Aeroquip? We just did an SX pump setup on the shop car but it had a fuel cell. All fitting were aeroquip, they are expensive but high quality pieces.

Boost leak test means removing the air filter and capping off the compressor inlet then pressurizing the IC pipes to make sure there are no leaks in the piping / couplers / gaskets etc. You'd be surprised how much of a difference it makes.

leakdown test my car ..hahahahaha
I compression test it once a month. If my motor blows it also only takes me an hour to drop my motor out of the car so it's no big deal. I think it takes you a little longer.

Ant

ToYLeT902

iTrader: (12)

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

I'm not going to be the guinea pig.


Nope, I'd rather have someone else do it. I already have a source but it's through another source so they have to initiate contact first. Yes, they're reputable... built motors for 10 second DSM's and Civics.

Yeah, not Nissans but they'll do.

Yes, Mardi-hybrid.


Wow, that's PLENTY... more than enough to stick the injectors. LOL


Aeroquip doesn't have the metric threaded fitting I need. I've looked into Moroso and Russell, but they don't have anything.

Oh.... boost leak test. I thought you said leak down test after reading IceY2K1's reply. LOL


*flush*

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Apparently you don't care to know what's bRokE?

If it's a valve or head gasket, it could be fixed.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

I care, but I'm not stressing over it. Car still runs nicely... but as Ant said, "Less compression just means you have to run more BOOST."

Donkey®

iTrader: (3)

Good numbers...but you definitely can get it better. BTW, the graphs and dyno charts for your car are nice and everything...but can you put the server on the dyno next and post those numbers??? There seems to be some kind of boost leak or the Walbro Database is not working right.

joaquink

Lemme know what you need on that fitting Kev.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

HOWEVER, for $70 or less, you can order the leakage tester and KNOW WHAT IS WRONG and monitor it to see if it's getting worse or staying ok. What if you just have a screwed valve and you can 'simply' pull the rear(front) head?

Compression below 150 is NOT good.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

No.




Thanks Joaquin. I might have to ship you the pump... I'll let you know though.


Ignorance is bliss.

AntGVR4

That is true. It is not good to have low compression in a cylinder. However the car is still very driveable.
Please tell me why low compression is so NOT good.

Kev-
Does the car smoke or burn oil or coolant?
Are you pushing any coolant out of the overflow?
Are you getting a lot of blowby out of your breather of the valve cover?

Could just be a headgasket which would be a good thing.

BTW: Is RoadRace the place you are talking about concerning building motors?

Ant

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

No smoke and it does burn a little extra oil.


Nope.


Nope.


I'm thinking it's a bad piston ring... not positive though.


It's in NorCal, so no... not RoadRace.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Because it didn't come that way.

J/K...it should be within 15% of the other cylinders, which it's not.

Anything below 150 has something wrong.