Brembo Rotors really worh it?
06-12-2003, 05:51 PM
#1
Brembo Rotors really worh it?
Ive been thinking after i ordered my brembo rotors/axxis pads. is it really worth it? can i feel the difference over stock(or non brand name)? or should i just cancel my order and get regular rotors from autozone or something? i dont know what to do. i paid the guy already but if i decide not to im gonna have cancel it. What do you guys think? and other thing that got me was i can't turn those cross drilled rotors can i? thats another issue. anything would be appreciated.
thanks,
Tae
p.s. $300(brembo/axxis) vs. $150(autozone brand)
what do you think?
thanks,
Tae
p.s. $300(brembo/axxis) vs. $150(autozone brand)
what do you think?
06-12-2003, 06:51 PM
#2
well the rotors just allow the brake pads to cool down faster. So there's less warping this way. The brakes pads are also a lil more abrassive so that helps. But if you want to really see a difference and be able to stop on a dime then get a Big Brake Kit 
06-12-2003, 07:39 PM
#5
Originally posted by 96BLUMAX
I wish someone would post some facts about braking distances with different setups.
I wish someone would post some facts about braking distances with different setups.
Just my 2 cents
AA
06-12-2003, 08:49 PM
#7
Drilled rotors are a complete waste of money IMHO. They have less total surface area which increases stopping distances, crack from heat and repetative use, and unless purchased from a very good source, tend to be non-balanced, causing vibration. The swept/slotted ones work much better, but tend to eat pads a bit faster than a stock like setup.
06-12-2003, 10:14 PM
#8
Re: Brembo Rotors really worh it?
Originally posted by taeMAX97
Ive been thinking after i ordered my brembo rotors/axxis pads. is it really worth it? can i feel the difference over stock(or non brand name)? or should i just cancel my order and get regular rotors from autozone or something? i dont know what to do. i paid the guy already but if i decide not to im gonna have cancel it. What do you guys think? and other thing that got me was i can't turn those cross drilled rotors can i? thats another issue. anything would be appreciated.
thanks,
Tae
p.s. $300(brembo/axxis) vs. $150(autozone brand) what do you think?
Ive been thinking after i ordered my brembo rotors/axxis pads. is it really worth it? can i feel the difference over stock(or non brand name)? or should i just cancel my order and get regular rotors from autozone or something? i dont know what to do. i paid the guy already but if i decide not to im gonna have cancel it. What do you guys think? and other thing that got me was i can't turn those cross drilled rotors can i? thats another issue. anything would be appreciated.
thanks,
Tae
p.s. $300(brembo/axxis) vs. $150(autozone brand)
what do you think?
Okay where do i begain
1. Is brembo rotor really worth it?..... IT depends on how you define worth it. Some people think is useless but some think is something good for. It just depends on youself. I sold over 40 pairs now in the pass month and all happy customers. $2000 for a ap upgrade do you think that is worth it? And does peopel acturally pay for it? I think you know the answer to that. Does rotor really help braking Yes of course. From my point is it really worth it for a couple second faster brake YES.
the price you pay for $300 shipped for Orignal zinc plated Brembo rotors and F/R Axxis pads is the best price I seen so far.
2.Autozone rotorsis like I want chrom rims but i can't afford it so I think I should go buy some chrom hoodcap and put it on my 15inch steelies. You can't compare autozone rotors with brembo, I am sorry if i offended you but you just can't compare its two. Autozone rotors would still work but you just can't compare Brembo with autozone rotors.
3. Can you resurface them. Yes you can.
bananamax
What????? How the heck would drilled rotors allow the PADS to cool down faster???? I'm confused. Last I heard, it was the cyclic heating and cooling or the rotors that caused them to warp. Please help.
slotted or Xdrill/slotted rotors let the heat out from the SLotted holes. thats how they cool down faster than any blanks, or Dimpled. This is just basci knowledge.
Quicksilver
You are half right. They tend to crack Only if you go Race with them on the track every day and brake hard(Woot and brake, woot and Brake etc...). For normal condition driving or goto the track Once a week. The rotors will not crack! Even IF they crack is time to change your rotors anyways, is most likely below spec. I have been using cross drill/slotted rotors on my eclipse, prelude and maxima for over 4 years now. Nothing wrong with them at all.
Taemax97
If you want to cancel your order you got to let me know NOW. Once the rotor is shipped I can't give you a refund. If you want, you can just cancel your MO.
06-12-2003, 10:57 PM
#9
AutoMax_95...
I hope I wasn't offending you by anything. What i was trying to say was that if getting those rotors was different then autozone brand(nonbrand). and yes you did answer my question. i was just curious what other people thought about this thats all. and i know you probably have hundreds of orders. and thanks for your quick replies. and im pretty sure that im gonna be satisfied with the product so i hope this clears out between you and me. so just let me know when you get those stuff shipped, k? i even printed my order i believe.
thanks,
Tae
I hope I wasn't offending you by anything. What i was trying to say was that if getting those rotors was different then autozone brand(nonbrand). and yes you did answer my question. i was just curious what other people thought about this thats all. and i know you probably have hundreds of orders. and thanks for your quick replies. and im pretty sure that im gonna be satisfied with the product so i hope this clears out between you and me. so just let me know when you get those stuff shipped, k? i even printed my order i believe.
thanks,
Tae
06-12-2003, 11:21 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,493
Let me share my experiences
I've tried the stock brake system for about 42K miles. It was great, but I warped the rotors pretty bad (I'll never wash my car immediately after driving it again). The Nissan dealership offered to do new pads and new rotors for $400. I had a set of $850 Wilwoods sitting in my living room, so I told them no thanks.
The Fastbrake Wilwood kit increased braking power and vented the heat off the rotors (they are 2-piece vented rotors). At the time, I had a set of 32mm offset 17X8 SSR Integral A2's and they didn't clear the caliper. I had to place a washer around each wheels stud for proper fitment. The pedal feel was little mushy initally, but got firmer to the point that my brakes would lock past the initial firm feeling.
After 5K miles, I came across a deal on a set of Brembo Gran Turismo brakes. The seller was really trying to sell them, and no one on the org was interested. After a month, I decided I'd commit and buy them off him. I installed them in about 45 minutes and noticed a big improvement. The caliper system was designed to match the master cylinder, and they made less noises than the Wilwoods. My wheels clear without the washers and the rotors are not only larger, but are Cross-drilled too. Only thing is that the pads are lot thinner. I'm happiest with the Brembo's...much better pedal feel, they clear slightly better, they are street legal and well-designed.
Would I pay $2,400 new for them...no. I paid less than half of that and that's what I'm willing to pay.
As far as stock sized rotors, my Auto-X friends live by Autozone rotors. They are like $20 each and are more resistant to warping than Brembo. I'm not sure what brand they are, but the IT-R owners say they are the best thing. If you use a track pad, it'll tear up the rotor. When the rotor is resistant to brake fade and warping while still costing $20 a pop, you have a good setup. Aggressive pads will cut the life of the rotor.
The Fastbrake Wilwood kit increased braking power and vented the heat off the rotors (they are 2-piece vented rotors). At the time, I had a set of 32mm offset 17X8 SSR Integral A2's and they didn't clear the caliper. I had to place a washer around each wheels stud for proper fitment. The pedal feel was little mushy initally, but got firmer to the point that my brakes would lock past the initial firm feeling.
After 5K miles, I came across a deal on a set of Brembo Gran Turismo brakes. The seller was really trying to sell them, and no one on the org was interested. After a month, I decided I'd commit and buy them off him. I installed them in about 45 minutes and noticed a big improvement. The caliper system was designed to match the master cylinder, and they made less noises than the Wilwoods. My wheels clear without the washers and the rotors are not only larger, but are Cross-drilled too. Only thing is that the pads are lot thinner. I'm happiest with the Brembo's...much better pedal feel, they clear slightly better, they are street legal and well-designed.
Would I pay $2,400 new for them...no. I paid less than half of that and that's what I'm willing to pay.
As far as stock sized rotors, my Auto-X friends live by Autozone rotors. They are like $20 each and are more resistant to warping than Brembo. I'm not sure what brand they are, but the IT-R owners say they are the best thing. If you use a track pad, it'll tear up the rotor. When the rotor is resistant to brake fade and warping while still costing $20 a pop, you have a good setup. Aggressive pads will cut the life of the rotor.
06-12-2003, 11:23 PM
#11
Originally posted by taeMAX97
AutoMax_95...
I hope I wasn't offending you by anything. What i was trying to say was that if getting those rotors was different then autozone brand(nonbrand). and yes you did answer my question. i was just curious what other people thought about this thats all. and i know you probably have hundreds of orders. and thanks for your quick replies. and im pretty sure that im gonna be satisfied with the product so i hope this clears out between you and me. so just let me know when you get those stuff shipped, k? i even printed my order i believe.
thanks,
Tae
AutoMax_95...
I hope I wasn't offending you by anything. What i was trying to say was that if getting those rotors was different then autozone brand(nonbrand). and yes you did answer my question. i was just curious what other people thought about this thats all. and i know you probably have hundreds of orders. and thanks for your quick replies. and im pretty sure that im gonna be satisfied with the product so i hope this clears out between you and me. so just let me know when you get those stuff shipped, k? i even printed my order i believe.
thanks,
Tae
Don't worrie tae
I was just answering your question from a .org member point of view, not from a seller point of view. I am just trying to give you some information about brakes. Autozone brake is cheap but how long can it last, and would it wrape. And you know once the rotor is wrape is a pain in the ***. I know cuz i been there.Anyways your order should go out before wensday as I already e-mail you about the info.
Sorry about the lag, but the GD is closing in 3 days and everyone is rush to order. And now my mail box is full of e-mails and I am trying to organize everything all at once(big headache), and trying to reply everyone as fast as I can.
wait for my e-mail (tracking # for your order)thx
06-13-2003, 05:44 AM
#12
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally posted by Quicksilver
Drilled rotors are a complete waste of money IMHO. They have less total surface area which increases stopping distances, crack from heat and repetative use, and unless purchased from a very good source, tend to be non-balanced, causing vibration. The swept/slotted ones work much better, but tend to eat pads a bit faster than a stock like setup.
Drilled rotors are a complete waste of money IMHO. They have less total surface area which increases stopping distances, crack from heat and repetative use, and unless purchased from a very good source, tend to be non-balanced, causing vibration. The swept/slotted ones work much better, but tend to eat pads a bit faster than a stock like setup.
Best 500 bucks I ever spent on my car. I can't understand why some dislike the x-drilled rotors so much?
They are not recommended for track use, but for everyday spirited driving you can't go wrong.Good Reading Material on Brakes
06-13-2003, 06:55 AM
#14
Really. Most people would think drilling holes in a rotor would decrease surface area. Who would have thought taking material away actually increases surface area.
Originally posted by bananamax
Automax:
drilled rotors do NOT cool down the PADS faster. The have an increase in surface area, and thus have a highr thermal conductivity (k-value) than solid discs.
P.S. What is "basci knowledge"?
Automax:
drilled rotors do NOT cool down the PADS faster. The have an increase in surface area, and thus have a highr thermal conductivity (k-value) than solid discs.
P.S. What is "basci knowledge"?
06-13-2003, 07:02 AM
#15
Who?
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 205
Originally posted by bananamax
Automax:
drilled rotors do NOT cool down the PADS faster. The have an increase in surface area, and thus have a highr thermal conductivity (k-value) than solid discs.
P.S. What is "basci knowledge"?
Automax:
drilled rotors do NOT cool down the PADS faster. The have an increase in surface area, and thus have a highr thermal conductivity (k-value) than solid discs.
P.S. What is "basci knowledge"?
2. i don't really think the inside of the drill holes is significant "surface area" to increase the heat conductivity.
3. the reason cross-drilled's may cool the pads is b/c they exchange hot air for (slightly) cooler air with each rotation. i don't think it could be a very big diff tho. same should be true of slotted ones.
06-13-2003, 05:38 PM
#17
Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 74
Crossdrilled:
1. Provides better off-gasing of vaporized organic binding material resulting in less brake fade. Are you going to used organic pads...I wouldnt. Modern ceramic, kevlar, or metallic pads have very little orgnic binding material. Another reason to get good pads.
2. Better cooling than a solid rotor. Lets consider this. Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? For given sized rotor, a crossdrilled rotor will have less mass than a solid rotor. For a given material, the more mass the more heat it can absorb. For example, it takes 10X's the heat input to heat a 10g piece steel 1 degree than it does a 1g piece of steel 1 degree. So any additional cooling that you would get by crossdrilling (probably negligible without cooling ducts) will be offset by the loss in mass. Furthermore, conduction through the rotor will be orders of magnitude faster than than convection to the air.
3. Crossdrilling reduces the pad swept surface area. More swept area better braking.
4. Crossdrilling can remove pad glaze. Yes they can, but for the exact reason they remove glazing causes your pads to wear faster.
5. Crossdrilling reduces the structural integrity of the rotor. Yes drilling holes in a piece of metal weakens it structurally. This could make it more prone to warping and cracking.
Good braking comes from high friction which equates to good pads (high coefficient of friction, good high temp properties, & low organic), large pad swept area, high rotor mass, and good heat disappation.
Make your own decision. Personally, I would be wary of rotors that weren't specifically casted or forged to be crossdrilled.
1. Provides better off-gasing of vaporized organic binding material resulting in less brake fade. Are you going to used organic pads...I wouldnt. Modern ceramic, kevlar, or metallic pads have very little orgnic binding material. Another reason to get good pads.
2. Better cooling than a solid rotor. Lets consider this. Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? For given sized rotor, a crossdrilled rotor will have less mass than a solid rotor. For a given material, the more mass the more heat it can absorb. For example, it takes 10X's the heat input to heat a 10g piece steel 1 degree than it does a 1g piece of steel 1 degree. So any additional cooling that you would get by crossdrilling (probably negligible without cooling ducts) will be offset by the loss in mass. Furthermore, conduction through the rotor will be orders of magnitude faster than than convection to the air.
3. Crossdrilling reduces the pad swept surface area. More swept area better braking.
4. Crossdrilling can remove pad glaze. Yes they can, but for the exact reason they remove glazing causes your pads to wear faster.
5. Crossdrilling reduces the structural integrity of the rotor. Yes drilling holes in a piece of metal weakens it structurally. This could make it more prone to warping and cracking.
Good braking comes from high friction which equates to good pads (high coefficient of friction, good high temp properties, & low organic), large pad swept area, high rotor mass, and good heat disappation.
Make your own decision. Personally, I would be wary of rotors that weren't specifically casted or forged to be crossdrilled.
06-13-2003, 09:26 PM
#19
I am one of the many who was in the group deal of rotor group deal. I got dimpled slotted rotors. Not cross drilled. I paired them with raybestos quiet stops and I am not disappointed. I feel like I could stop on a dime and feel alot safer driving in mild freeway traffic. Looks great too. I just wished I painted my calipers.
07-27-2003, 10:01 AM
#21
Re: Let me share my experiences
Originally posted by Kevin Wong
As far as stock sized rotors, my Auto-X friends live by Autozone rotors. They are like $20 each and are more resistant to warping than Brembo. I'm not sure what brand they are, but the IT-R owners say they are the best thing. If you use a track pad, it'll tear up the rotor. When the rotor is resistant to brake fade and warping while still costing $20 a pop, you have a good setup. Aggressive pads will cut the life of the rotor.
As far as stock sized rotors, my Auto-X friends live by Autozone rotors. They are like $20 each and are more resistant to warping than Brembo. I'm not sure what brand they are, but the IT-R owners say they are the best thing. If you use a track pad, it'll tear up the rotor. When the rotor is resistant to brake fade and warping while still costing $20 a pop, you have a good setup. Aggressive pads will cut the life of the rotor.
???
07-27-2003, 01:09 PM
#23
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 928
Re: Brembo Rotors really worh it?
Originally posted by taeMAX97
Ive been thinking after i ordered my brembo rotors/axxis pads. is it really worth it? can i feel the difference over stock(or non brand name)? or should i just cancel my order and get regular rotors from autozone or something? i dont know what to do. i paid the guy already but if i decide not to im gonna have cancel it. What do you guys think? and other thing that got me was i can't turn those cross drilled rotors can i? thats another issue. anything would be appreciated.
thanks,
Tae
p.s. $300(brembo/axxis) vs. $150(autozone brand) what do you think?
Ive been thinking after i ordered my brembo rotors/axxis pads. is it really worth it? can i feel the difference over stock(or non brand name)? or should i just cancel my order and get regular rotors from autozone or something? i dont know what to do. i paid the guy already but if i decide not to im gonna have cancel it. What do you guys think? and other thing that got me was i can't turn those cross drilled rotors can i? thats another issue. anything would be appreciated.
thanks,
Tae
p.s. $300(brembo/axxis) vs. $150(autozone brand)
what do you think?
07-27-2003, 04:42 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,883
Originally posted by doublea
Last summer I change the Nissan crap oem rotor for 4 dimpled slotted + the Axis metal master pads + the SS Brake line, I think this set-up is a good compromise versus the 1000$ + Big Brake kit, it's not as powerfull but you will see a good difference compare to stock oem. One of the most important factor about braking performance is the rubber patch, the tire is the only thing in contact with the ground so the better tire grip you have the better braking your system will give out.
Just my 2 cents
AA
Last summer I change the Nissan crap oem rotor for 4 dimpled slotted + the Axis metal master pads + the SS Brake line, I think this set-up is a good compromise versus the 1000$ + Big Brake kit, it's not as powerfull but you will see a good difference compare to stock oem. One of the most important factor about braking performance is the rubber patch, the tire is the only thing in contact with the ground so the better tire grip you have the better braking your system will give out.
Just my 2 cents
AA
Still wont be able to catch it in the slalom though.
07-27-2003, 05:39 PM
#25
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 1,424
Re: Re: Let me share my experiences
Originally posted by Teser
Where did you find $20/rotor? The cheapest Autozone has is $72/rotor.
???
Where did you find $20/rotor? The cheapest Autozone has is $72/rotor.
???
(I've never had problems with them, either. At $27.99 a piece, I can replace them 3? 4? times as often as the x-drilled/slotted ones and break even price-wise)
07-27-2003, 06:16 PM
#26
Re: Re: Re: Let me share my experiences
Originally posted by sryth
Hmm...The only rotor I've found on www.autozone.com is made by Aimco, and is $27.99 a pop.
(I've never had problems with them, either. At $27.99 a piece, I can replace them 3? 4? times as often as the x-drilled/slotted ones and break even price-wise)
Hmm...The only rotor I've found on www.autozone.com is made by Aimco, and is $27.99 a pop.
(I've never had problems with them, either. At $27.99 a piece, I can replace them 3? 4? times as often as the x-drilled/slotted ones and break even price-wise)
Where?
I'm looking at the site, and the only one it shows is:
AIMCO BRAKE ROTOR - FRONT for a 2000 NISSAN/DATSUN MAXIMA
for $72.99
I called local store, and they gave me the same $72 price.
Where do you find them under $30???
07-27-2003, 06:38 PM
#27
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 1,424
Re: Re: Re: Re: Let me share my experiences
Originally posted by Teser
$27.99?
Where?
I'm looking at the site, and the only one it shows is:
AIMCO BRAKE ROTOR - FRONT for a 2000 NISSAN/DATSUN MAXIMA
for $72.99
I called local store, and they gave me the same $72 price.
Where do you find them under $30???
$27.99?
Where?
I'm looking at the site, and the only one it shows is:
AIMCO BRAKE ROTOR - FRONT for a 2000 NISSAN/DATSUN MAXIMA
for $72.99
I called local store, and they gave me the same $72 price.
Where do you find them under $30???
07-29-2003, 08:04 PM
#28
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Let me share my experiences
Originally posted by sryth
I guess the rotors are different between 4th Gen's and 5th Gens. Weird, I thought they were all the same. I was looking for a '98, not a 2k.
I guess the rotors are different between 4th Gen's and 5th Gens. Weird, I thought they were all the same. I was looking for a '98, not a 2k.
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