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OMG, Unibit is awesome. Forget regular drill bit->

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Old 01-31-2001, 08:59 PM
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For the past two nights, I have been struggling making holes in the firewall for my 4 gauge wire, nitrous pressure hose, EGT probe wire...etc. The hole by the fender is all filled up. The hole for the nitrous gauge pressure hose needs to be 3/4". That's a big hole. After using regular drill bit with no success, because it's too long. The regular bit skid around and doesn't bite. After hours of messing around, I only made two small useless holes. I went to Home Depot and spend the $31 for a Unibit. For those of you don't know what I'm taking about, it's a drill bit that shapes like a cone. It can drills a hole from 1/4" to 7/8". I was able to make two holes big enough to fit 4 gauge wires. I made two more 3/4" holes. All that in 15 mins. Use regular drill bits for wood and plastic. Unibit is so much easier to use on metal.

[Edited by 1MAX2NV on 01-31-2001 at 11:02 PM]
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Old 01-31-2001, 09:02 PM
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Yea they are, but for my 0 guage we had to use a hole saw bit and still killed two bits. Easy don't get to carried away making holes. Did you get my e-mail?
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Old 01-31-2001, 09:15 PM
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the unibit I've got will go up to 1.5".. waaay more than enough for your measly 1/0 cable.
(you could run the cable AND conduit through that hole!)
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Old 01-31-2001, 09:25 PM
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You mean that uni-bits are easier to sue on SHEET metal. Nothing can replace the 2 flute twist drill. NOTHING.
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Old 01-31-2001, 11:08 PM
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0 guage?!?! what the hell are you powering with that?!?!
I just ran a 8 guage today and drilled into the metal no problem with a 2 dollar bit. Gotta use some muscles guys...

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Old 02-01-2001, 12:49 AM
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my current audio system is producing a rated 1100W.. later, I'll have ONE amp with more power than that, in addition to the three amps I already have in there. I'm using 2 gauge cable now.. when I get that done, I'll need at least 1/0 cable and an extra battery in the back.

there's lotsa guys on here running much more power than me..
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Old 02-01-2001, 07:39 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by 2000MaximaSE
[I]0 guage?!?! what the hell are you powering with that?!?!

I currently have 2 PPI amps(for sale) and 3 12w6 JL Audio subs(for sale). The wattage isn't really important what is, is the amperage and the current draw of the amps. The more current you can provide to your amps the more wattage you'll get with less work=cooler amps Also you need to figure out the distance to power requirement to figure out the proper gauge. Running larger wire is ok but wire that's to small will result in starving the amps for power so they will run hotter and most like go into thermal shut down. Basic systems, sub amp only 8 gauge should do it, 2 amps you should go to 4 gauge. Just remember OHM's law E=IxR. Most amps have a chart in the manual with gauge vs distance charts for the amp you purchased.
As for my new set up, I am now sponsored by JBL and will have 4 amps and 2 of the new killer JBL GTI subwoofers 2 amps will be 180x2 and the other 2 will be the 1200.1's, which are mono blocks (designed for subs) and are 1 ohm stable(unlike many other mono blocks) and at 1 ohm produce 1374 watts
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[Edited by Maxstilln on 02-01-2001 at 10:11 AM]
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Old 02-01-2001, 08:02 AM
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Matt does the wire also goes to your house when you have power outages? heehee

Originally posted by Matt93GXE
my current audio system is producing a rated 1100W.. later, I'll have ONE amp with more power than that, in addition to the three amps I already have in there. I'm using 2 gauge cable now.. when I get that done, I'll need at least 1/0 cable and an extra battery in the back.

there's lotsa guys on here running much more power than me..
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