CROSS DRILLED BRAKES
Originally posted by Mikemax
anyone have ideas as to where to buy brembo brakes? Also what would you recommend for a brake pads.
anyone have ideas as to where to buy brembo brakes? Also what would you recommend for a brake pads.
Your options are Stillen or Powerstop (depending on year/make/model). <a href="mailto:GR_Racing@Yahoo.com">Email me </a>with your info and I can get you pricing; I don't deal w/ too many Maxima parts so I have to contact my distributors for my dealer cost.
Axxis Metal Master pads are the way to go... Hawk are good, too.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,138
I just ordered the Brembo cross-drilled rotors...
.....and pads from Autogear to replace my warping Powerstops which died prematurely, IMO. Call Autogear at 1-877-AUTOGEAR, ask for Joe or John, and mention that you spoke to JJW on the Maxima BBS.
Jim
Jim
Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 60
Axxis/Repco Metal master pads.........
suck!
Take it from a road racer who has used a lot of different brands of brake pads. I strongly feel that the MM's were the worst I've ever used. How bad?? How about being able to push my car w/ the parking brake engaged bad?
Anyways, with years of searching for the best pads, I've come up w/ a few that are sure to please. Of course, the right brake pad really depends on the intended application.
If the car's strictly for street use. Hawk HP+/Carbotech SuperStreet F compound (same pad material, Hawk makes the pads for Carbotech) No dust, no squeal, brakes very good, excellent pedal feel, rotor friendly. good to about 900 degrees. Excellent for light road racing/Solo I.
If you want the best pad for AutoX: Carbotech Kelated Metallic. (aka Mean Green compound) rotor friendly, highest coefficient of friction I've seen for a street compound. Bedding in these puppies is fun!! (after putting them on my GSX, I bought a set for the SE-R. So I already had prior experience w/ them. slapped them on the SE-R and went for a quick run to bed them in. Was pulling out of the driveway and had to brake to oncoming traffic. Slammed my chest into the steering wheel. and this was from a speed of 5 mph.)
The bad thing about these pads is that the dust heavily, sometimes has a 'groaning' sound to it, and have relatively low max temp rating of 700 degrees. (don't use it on for road racing. Went thru a set in 4 months)
If it's for road racing, get Hawk Blue compound. But you will have to put them on before the event and remove them after the event. They're good to 1200-1300 degrees, but also require at least 500 degrees. If you use them on the street, where you'll never see rotor temps over 500 degrees, you'll eat your rotors in a week. But if used between the recommended temp range, you won't have unusual rotor wear. And the coef. of friction is unreal.
Take it from a road racer who has used a lot of different brands of brake pads. I strongly feel that the MM's were the worst I've ever used. How bad?? How about being able to push my car w/ the parking brake engaged bad?
Anyways, with years of searching for the best pads, I've come up w/ a few that are sure to please. Of course, the right brake pad really depends on the intended application.
If the car's strictly for street use. Hawk HP+/Carbotech SuperStreet F compound (same pad material, Hawk makes the pads for Carbotech) No dust, no squeal, brakes very good, excellent pedal feel, rotor friendly. good to about 900 degrees. Excellent for light road racing/Solo I.
If you want the best pad for AutoX: Carbotech Kelated Metallic. (aka Mean Green compound) rotor friendly, highest coefficient of friction I've seen for a street compound. Bedding in these puppies is fun!! (after putting them on my GSX, I bought a set for the SE-R. So I already had prior experience w/ them. slapped them on the SE-R and went for a quick run to bed them in. Was pulling out of the driveway and had to brake to oncoming traffic. Slammed my chest into the steering wheel. and this was from a speed of 5 mph.)
The bad thing about these pads is that the dust heavily, sometimes has a 'groaning' sound to it, and have relatively low max temp rating of 700 degrees. (don't use it on for road racing. Went thru a set in 4 months)
If it's for road racing, get Hawk Blue compound. But you will have to put them on before the event and remove them after the event. They're good to 1200-1300 degrees, but also require at least 500 degrees. If you use them on the street, where you'll never see rotor temps over 500 degrees, you'll eat your rotors in a week. But if used between the recommended temp range, you won't have unusual rotor wear. And the coef. of friction is unreal.
Originally posted by got rice?
Brembo does not make stock sized cross drilled rotors; they only make OE replacements or big brake kits.
Your options are Stillen or Powerstop (depending on year/make/model). <a href="mailto:GR_Racing@Yahoo.com">Email me </a>with your info and I can get you pricing; I don't deal w/ too many Maxima parts so I have to contact my distributors for my dealer cost.
Axxis Metal Master pads are the way to go... Hawk are good, too.
Brembo does not make stock sized cross drilled rotors; they only make OE replacements or big brake kits.
Your options are Stillen or Powerstop (depending on year/make/model). <a href="mailto:GR_Racing@Yahoo.com">Email me </a>with your info and I can get you pricing; I don't deal w/ too many Maxima parts so I have to contact my distributors for my dealer cost.
Axxis Metal Master pads are the way to go... Hawk are good, too.
I got mine from stillen. pick up some porterfield R-4S, EBC greens, or axxis/stillen metal pads, and you'll be good to go.
Originally posted by Matt93GXE
that's funny.. I have Brembo crossdrilled rotors on my max right now. rotors and pads are the same for 3rd and 4th gens.
I got mine from stillen. pick up some porterfield R-4S, EBC greens, or axxis/stillen metal pads, and you'll be good to go. [/I]
that's funny.. I have Brembo crossdrilled rotors on my max right now. rotors and pads are the same for 3rd and 4th gens.
I got mine from stillen. pick up some porterfield R-4S, EBC greens, or axxis/stillen metal pads, and you'll be good to go.
[/I]
Re: Axxis/Repco Metal master pads.........
Originally posted by mhgsx
suck!
Take it from a road racer who has used a lot of different brands of brake pads. I strongly feel that the MM's were the worst I've ever used. How bad?? How about being able to push my car w/ the parking brake engaged bad?
Anyways, with years of searching for the best pads, I've come up w/ a few that are sure to please. Of course, the right brake pad really depends on the intended application.
If the car's strictly for street use. Hawk HP+/Carbotech SuperStreet F compound (same pad material, Hawk makes the pads for Carbotech) No dust, no squeal, brakes very good, excellent pedal feel, rotor friendly. good to about 900 degrees. Excellent for light road racing/Solo I.
If you want the best pad for AutoX: Carbotech Kelated Metallic. (aka Mean Green compound) rotor friendly, highest coefficient of friction I've seen for a street compound. Bedding in these puppies is fun!! (after putting them on my GSX, I bought a set for the SE-R. So I already had prior experience w/ them. slapped them on the SE-R and went for a quick run to bed them in. Was pulling out of the driveway and had to brake to oncoming traffic. Slammed my chest into the steering wheel. and this was from a speed of 5 mph.)
The bad thing about these pads is that the dust heavily, sometimes has a 'groaning' sound to it, and have relatively low max temp rating of 700 degrees. (don't use it on for road racing. Went thru a set in 4 months)
If it's for road racing, get Hawk Blue compound. But you will have to put them on before the event and remove them after the event. They're good to 1200-1300 degrees, but also require at least 500 degrees. If you use them on the street, where you'll never see rotor temps over 500 degrees, you'll eat your rotors in a week. But if used between the recommended temp range, you won't have unusual rotor wear. And the coef. of friction is unreal.
suck!
Take it from a road racer who has used a lot of different brands of brake pads. I strongly feel that the MM's were the worst I've ever used. How bad?? How about being able to push my car w/ the parking brake engaged bad?
Anyways, with years of searching for the best pads, I've come up w/ a few that are sure to please. Of course, the right brake pad really depends on the intended application.
If the car's strictly for street use. Hawk HP+/Carbotech SuperStreet F compound (same pad material, Hawk makes the pads for Carbotech) No dust, no squeal, brakes very good, excellent pedal feel, rotor friendly. good to about 900 degrees. Excellent for light road racing/Solo I.
If you want the best pad for AutoX: Carbotech Kelated Metallic. (aka Mean Green compound) rotor friendly, highest coefficient of friction I've seen for a street compound. Bedding in these puppies is fun!! (after putting them on my GSX, I bought a set for the SE-R. So I already had prior experience w/ them. slapped them on the SE-R and went for a quick run to bed them in. Was pulling out of the driveway and had to brake to oncoming traffic. Slammed my chest into the steering wheel. and this was from a speed of 5 mph.)
The bad thing about these pads is that the dust heavily, sometimes has a 'groaning' sound to it, and have relatively low max temp rating of 700 degrees. (don't use it on for road racing. Went thru a set in 4 months)
If it's for road racing, get Hawk Blue compound. But you will have to put them on before the event and remove them after the event. They're good to 1200-1300 degrees, but also require at least 500 degrees. If you use them on the street, where you'll never see rotor temps over 500 degrees, you'll eat your rotors in a week. But if used between the recommended temp range, you won't have unusual rotor wear. And the coef. of friction is unreal.
Originally posted by Mikemax
ok.. how big are the brembos? 11 inch? what about aem or ame cross drilled brakes. I believe they are 13 inches. where can I get axxis pads for a good price.
ok.. how big are the brembos? 11 inch? what about aem or ame cross drilled brakes. I believe they are 13 inches. where can I get axxis pads for a good price.
do a little more research before you select a pad. There's one post here stating that he didn't like his Axxis. I don't know if he's just a unique case or what (I think it is..). Gather some data then choose. I still say go w/ Axxis or Hawk
Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 60
They may have sucked for you, but they've worked great for me
You're absolutely right about the pads sucking for me. Does that mean that they will suck for everyone? No.
But, I draw my conclusions due to the fact that I have tried many other brake pad companies, including the ones I have recommended. I remember a brake pad test performed in European Car and they also tested MM pads. Guess which one didn't do too good for all the hype behind it??
Have you tried any of the brands and models of brake pads that I've suggested? What other brands have you tried?
The MM's are pretty cheap compared to the OEM pads. That makes it a decent choice when shopping around. Plus, they seem to wear like iron.
The pads I recommended are big $$$$, twice the price of the MMs. But I really do feel that they're OVER 100% better. Besides, if some people on this board can afford a Pop Filter for ~$100, only to give them at most 1-2 HP, why not get a set of pads that costs the same and that if the car is taken to the track, will yield better times, adds greater safety, etc.
You recommended Hawk. Why? Have you run on them? There is a reason that CART, NASCAR, and IRL teams rum them. Hawk makes both brands of pads that I recommended. (although, Carbotech's is a proprietary compound for some of them)
As far as my opinion on the MM being unique, for each person out their who claim the MM's are great, I've met racers in my , ahem..former, racing club who'll swear otherwise. Again, these people being ones who have tried them, and tried others.
Someone also mentioned Porterfield pads. I've never had the chance to run these, and I've heard pretty good things about them. But from what I've seen on other racers' cars. They dust, big time. (I think just by pulling the E-brake they dust!!haha)
Regarding OE Brembo rotors, absolutely correct about them not coming cross drilled. Cross drilling a factory sized rotor is a joke (except for the exotic cars. they actually have great brakes from the start). The only possible reason for using them on a street car would be if the car is entered in car shows. The fact is MOST brake systems found on cars are woefully inadequate for track use. They're just not big enough to handle the heat generated from the constant braking. Now, if you're putting holes in them and removing rotor material, what do you think is gonna happen to your brake's heat capacity?? That's right, it's gonna go down the toilet.
As for the argument that the resultant added cooling effect from the holes shuld overcome this, wrong!! If you can't adequately cool a solid rotor when traveling at high speed, how's a couple of added holes gonna do anything for it?
But, I draw my conclusions due to the fact that I have tried many other brake pad companies, including the ones I have recommended. I remember a brake pad test performed in European Car and they also tested MM pads. Guess which one didn't do too good for all the hype behind it??
Have you tried any of the brands and models of brake pads that I've suggested? What other brands have you tried?
The MM's are pretty cheap compared to the OEM pads. That makes it a decent choice when shopping around. Plus, they seem to wear like iron.
The pads I recommended are big $$$$, twice the price of the MMs. But I really do feel that they're OVER 100% better. Besides, if some people on this board can afford a Pop Filter for ~$100, only to give them at most 1-2 HP, why not get a set of pads that costs the same and that if the car is taken to the track, will yield better times, adds greater safety, etc.
You recommended Hawk. Why? Have you run on them? There is a reason that CART, NASCAR, and IRL teams rum them. Hawk makes both brands of pads that I recommended. (although, Carbotech's is a proprietary compound for some of them)
As far as my opinion on the MM being unique, for each person out their who claim the MM's are great, I've met racers in my , ahem..former, racing club who'll swear otherwise. Again, these people being ones who have tried them, and tried others.
Someone also mentioned Porterfield pads. I've never had the chance to run these, and I've heard pretty good things about them. But from what I've seen on other racers' cars. They dust, big time. (I think just by pulling the E-brake they dust!!haha)
Regarding OE Brembo rotors, absolutely correct about them not coming cross drilled. Cross drilling a factory sized rotor is a joke (except for the exotic cars. they actually have great brakes from the start). The only possible reason for using them on a street car would be if the car is entered in car shows. The fact is MOST brake systems found on cars are woefully inadequate for track use. They're just not big enough to handle the heat generated from the constant braking. Now, if you're putting holes in them and removing rotor material, what do you think is gonna happen to your brake's heat capacity?? That's right, it's gonna go down the toilet.
As for the argument that the resultant added cooling effect from the holes shuld overcome this, wrong!! If you can't adequately cool a solid rotor when traveling at high speed, how's a couple of added holes gonna do anything for it?
Re: They may have sucked for you, but they've worked great for me
Originally posted by mhgsx
You're absolutely right about the pads sucking for me. Does that mean that they will suck for everyone? No.
But, I draw my conclusions due to the fact that I have tried many other brake pad companies, including the ones I have recommended. I remember a brake pad test performed in European Car and they also tested MM pads. Guess which one didn't do too good for all the hype behind it??
Have you tried any of the brands and models of brake pads that I've suggested? What other brands have you tried?
The MM's are pretty cheap compared to the OEM pads. That makes it a decent choice when shopping around. Plus, they seem to wear like iron.
The pads I recommended are big $$$$, twice the price of the MMs. But I really do feel that they're OVER 100% better. Besides, if some people on this board can afford a Pop Filter for ~$100, only to give them at most 1-2 HP, why not get a set of pads that costs the same and that if the car is taken to the track, will yield better times, adds greater safety, etc.
You recommended Hawk. Why? Have you run on them? There is a reason that CART, NASCAR, and IRL teams rum them. Hawk makes both brands of pads that I recommended. (although, Carbotech's is a proprietary compound for some of them)
As far as my opinion on the MM being unique, for each person out their who claim the MM's are great, I've met racers in my , ahem..former, racing club who'll swear otherwise. Again, these people being ones who have tried them, and tried others.
Someone also mentioned Porterfield pads. I've never had the chance to run these, and I've heard pretty good things about them. But from what I've seen on other racers' cars. They dust, big time. (I think just by pulling the E-brake they dust!!haha)
Regarding OE Brembo rotors, absolutely correct about them not coming cross drilled. Cross drilling a factory sized rotor is a joke (except for the exotic cars. they actually have great brakes from the start). The only possible reason for using them on a street car would be if the car is entered in car shows. The fact is MOST brake systems found on cars are woefully inadequate for track use. They're just not big enough to handle the heat generated from the constant braking. Now, if you're putting holes in them and removing rotor material, what do you think is gonna happen to your brake's heat capacity?? That's right, it's gonna go down the toilet.
As for the argument that the resultant added cooling effect from the holes shuld overcome this, wrong!! If you can't adequately cool a solid rotor when traveling at high speed, how's a couple of added holes gonna do anything for it?
You're absolutely right about the pads sucking for me. Does that mean that they will suck for everyone? No.
But, I draw my conclusions due to the fact that I have tried many other brake pad companies, including the ones I have recommended. I remember a brake pad test performed in European Car and they also tested MM pads. Guess which one didn't do too good for all the hype behind it??
Have you tried any of the brands and models of brake pads that I've suggested? What other brands have you tried?
The MM's are pretty cheap compared to the OEM pads. That makes it a decent choice when shopping around. Plus, they seem to wear like iron.
The pads I recommended are big $$$$, twice the price of the MMs. But I really do feel that they're OVER 100% better. Besides, if some people on this board can afford a Pop Filter for ~$100, only to give them at most 1-2 HP, why not get a set of pads that costs the same and that if the car is taken to the track, will yield better times, adds greater safety, etc.
You recommended Hawk. Why? Have you run on them? There is a reason that CART, NASCAR, and IRL teams rum them. Hawk makes both brands of pads that I recommended. (although, Carbotech's is a proprietary compound for some of them)
As far as my opinion on the MM being unique, for each person out their who claim the MM's are great, I've met racers in my , ahem..former, racing club who'll swear otherwise. Again, these people being ones who have tried them, and tried others.
Someone also mentioned Porterfield pads. I've never had the chance to run these, and I've heard pretty good things about them. But from what I've seen on other racers' cars. They dust, big time. (I think just by pulling the E-brake they dust!!haha)
Regarding OE Brembo rotors, absolutely correct about them not coming cross drilled. Cross drilling a factory sized rotor is a joke (except for the exotic cars. they actually have great brakes from the start). The only possible reason for using them on a street car would be if the car is entered in car shows. The fact is MOST brake systems found on cars are woefully inadequate for track use. They're just not big enough to handle the heat generated from the constant braking. Now, if you're putting holes in them and removing rotor material, what do you think is gonna happen to your brake's heat capacity?? That's right, it's gonna go down the toilet.
As for the argument that the resultant added cooling effect from the holes shuld overcome this, wrong!! If you can't adequately cool a solid rotor when traveling at high speed, how's a couple of added holes gonna do anything for it?
After using them for several months on the Z, I decided to get a set for the Maxima. I can honestly say that my beater 87 Maxima braked better w/ the Axxis pads than when my Z had stock pads...
I've lost several sales on cross drilled rotors because I tell they customer they DON'T need them (how many businesses will do that? .. ) For street use, cross drilled or slotted rotors are not necessary (as you forementioned). Street use will not heat up the rotors to fully utilize the added cooling capability. Even after telling this to most customers, they buy them for the looks (holes and cadmium plating).
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