The_quorum

I was looking under the hood last night to see what would be involved to do that intake mod w/ the 3" duct to that split in the air-intake. I noticed a couple things that I'm wondering about.

1) What's the sensor that's located in the intake PRIOR to entering the air-filter box? (between the scoop and the box)

2) I noticed that the duct from the air-scoop does not seal onto the filter-box. Just sits there losely. Should I figure out some way to seal it onto the box to prevent any air from escaping prior to entering the box? Or does it not make that much difference?

Dave B

I think sensor you're seeing is the air temp sensor. As for the loose fitting section of the pipe to the airbox, I think I'm gonna seal mine. I think the reason Nissan did it that way is for ease of assembly. I'll probably just use some black caulk. By sealing the box, you'll build more pressure in the box which is could for "tip in" acceleration.

You'll like the mod. I recommend either getting a K&N filter panel or a Fram filter (supposedly flows as good). I also recommend that you contact PLace Racing and order the intake section (~$60) that removes the resonator box between the MAF and throttle body. That little box does suck out some power. I can't tell a difference between this setup and my old LOUD HKS intake. I love it.


Dave

voltman

iTrader: (1)

What effect would result if you just replace the top resonator, leave the bottom one, and add the K&N?

The_quorum

I went to Home Depot and got hose that was too wide...4", I'll have to take it back and look for 3"...

Something else maybe one of you can tell me. I've got a GXE and the fog light cut-outs are "empty"...I wanted to run the duct to the driver side fog light housing, but there is no way to get behind the thing from the engine bay, there's a metal (I'm guessing the frame) panel between the section...there's just a lot of empty space back there (that I'm sure can't be good for aerodynamics), any ideas on how to put it to better use or get the hose down there?

95greense

i ran 3" aluminum tubing out of a notch that i cut out of the corner of the splash guard right before the wheel well. I like the aluminum tubing because you can bend it into place and it doesn't move. I have mine bent with the opening facing into the direction of air with no attachments and it hasn't moved yet. for the air box seal i just used some weather proofing tape. i think its a great mod and i haven't even gotten my k&n or place racing piece yet.
question about the 3" to 2" connector. are you guys sure it's a 2" and not a 2 1/2"? i tried for 30 mins trying to get the 2" onto the flange but i just wouldn't fit. I ended up just crushing the 3" aluminum hose around the connector itself. ugly but it works.

Dave B

I'd get rid of both resonators. The bottom one (under the battery) is left in place. All you do is bypass it by disconnecting the resonator pipe from the intake elbow (you'll see it under the intake elbow, next to the battery). The bottom resonator is probably more restrictive than the top due to it's large capacity to capture air.


Dave

Dave B

I'm using 2.5" shopvac hose for my second intake pipe. You can completely bypass getting all the couplers to attach the pipe by simply cutting off the end of the shopvac hose that holds the attachments. Then take this end of the hose and it will simply snap into the existing resonator elbow. I used some silcone glue just to make sure it stayed in place.

Do you guys know that BMW uses the same intake setup (scoop over the radiator) as Nissan on it's new 3 series?


Dave