"Drilled and slotted rotors generally don't perform any better than non-drilled non-slotted rotors, it's all for looks. Also, drilled/slotted rotors cannot be ground."

http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?MaximaBrakeRotors

i never owned a crossdrilled/slotted rotors. but for those of you who owns it, is there any gains?

 

they look really good behind and open spoke rim

mine perform better than my stock rotors......

 

the whole reasoning is to let heat escape quicker and more easily...

 

yea i know that.

still debatin whether i should go for it or not... maybe jus a pair for the front...

 

Eh...not quite.

The point is to vent the gasses that build up between the pad and the rotor.

 

find some one near you that has a set-up and ask them to take you for a ride.

i'm happy with my set-up and they do look good.

 

For a daily driver, it doesn't generally perform better. But go to the track and you'll see the difference in performance.

 

I have had crossed-drilled rotors for over 2 years now and they perform better than stock in my opinion but they are noisy as hell when stopping from super fast speeds.

 

unless you seriously track the car, there's no improvement over stock, and you'll end up replacing them a lot sooner also. stock rotors will last for years, while I ended up replacing my drillec ones after about a year due to cracks. I was easy on them too.

if you want to pay for looks, go right ahead.. you won't get any performance out of them.

 

I have Brembo slotted zink plated rotors all around with SS lines and Nissan pads. Many short stops and frequent 120-40 stops. I love them. They are not noisy and look great after 4 month. No rust. I sudjest getting the SS lines.

***make sure u mount the brembo's the rite way because brembo slotted rotors are directional.

Here is the link..... http://hp.brembo.com/pdf/Disc_Direction.pdf

 

what does that mean?

 

they cannot be "turned" or resurfaced..

 

no resurface for these type. Hence, they warp you replace!

 

crossdrilled slotted all the way around.

night and day difference in performance. 10x better than stock. if i get two years out of them ill be happy.

 

I have a customer that builds the machines that turn rotors. He said that turning slotted or drilled rotors is not a problem. That people that say that just don't want to mess with it or don't posess the skill to do the job right. Or could be worn machine not capable of the task. And this is not first hand knowledge, just what I was told. Makes sense too.

 

BINGO!! You beat me to it. The slots function to vent gasses that build between the pad and the rotor. Most brake pads now are designed to have minimal gas buildup. Racing pads generally are formulated for performance but generate gas. What vents rotors for cooling are the vanes in middle of the rotor. Your front rotors are vented, but your rears are not (not to worry, the rear brakes are biased to do less work since the weight distribution and inertia from driving forward...you only need to worry about this if you brake doing 40MPH in reverse a lot).

I have the Brembo GT kit and I had the cross-drilled rotors resurfaced without any problems. They are smooth like brand new and have no signs of cracks or wear. Brembo recommends you resurface a set of the GT rotors only once. They are designed to be replaced (but at $200 a piece...I'd like to get the most out of them).

 

seems like 1/2 people think it's good, 1/2 doesn't. i guess for street use it's not gonna matter too much. i don't brake my car at all, so i guess it isn't necessary to get it. thx for the opinions guys.

 

I've had the Stillen cross-drilled rotors (they're just Brembo's) for 2 yrs now. It made a considerable considerable difference in brake fade after a couple repeated hard stops. Back on my stock rotors had I done that the pedal woulda gone all the way to the floor.

Mine dont have any cracks after 2 yrs (I'm relatively hard on em). The only possible drawback I can think of is that they're 'noisy'. IMO it just sounds like crickets or something when you're slowing down but you CANT hear it unless you've got all the windows down, radio off, and you're passing like a retaining wall that reflects the sound back to you.

I didnt even notice it till after a year or so of having them

 

I dont think the performance during everyday driving is affected, but they do look quite nice behind some 5 spoke wheels. Looks were 80% of the reason behind me getting them.

 

This is also NOT true. I have the powerslot rotors (not on my max) and they warped in a few years. I brought them to a shop and they got turned no problems. They were slotted and the slots are not as deep but are fine. (I had to clean the slots out with a dremel by hand)

 

I use frozen rotors, and I've never in my life had one warped rotor. I've even used them racing (they were cross drilled for said gas). On street vehicles, I'll never use anything other than frozenrotors.com

 

It might just be in my head, but it actually feels like my X-drilled/Dimpled stops better than stock in wet conditions. Anyone else feel this?

 

Since nobody else has mentioned it, might I add my brembo oem-sized rotors are also a thad beefier (thicker) - thus better at dissipating heat.

Better "performance" is up to the pad, the only thing a rotor will generally change is how long it takes to heat up/overheat, and how long until it fails as a result (warpage, cracking, etc).

 

I have the brembo crossdrilled. They do stop slightly better then stock but are a little noisey. Nothing that really bothers you though. My only complaint are the pads (Axxis Metal Matrix) sqeal the last few ft and its anoying as hell. Im about to just throw in a set of OEM pads just to keep it sqeal-free, it looks good though! ;D

 

That is true...I stand corrected by a much more specific statement

quoted from Brembo's website

Why use drilled or slotted discs?
- Drilling or slotting discs aids the disc in several ways:
The edges of the slots or holes continuously clean and refresh the pad surface as well as providing increased brake "bite". Additionally, they prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc interface.
The disc is lightened, thereby decreasing its rotational inertia.
Improved ventilation increases the disc's ability to shed heat, resulting in cooler operating temperatures

 

thats crazy my back rotors have a clicking sound when i hit the brakes. is that how your "crickets" sound?

 

now how much roter contact do we lose if we have slotted, or xdrilled, or slotted and xdrilled roters? is it equivilent to having 20% less roter surface area?

 

Well, brembo is almost right, except all the new compounds in brake pads are designed not to gas almost at all. And actually more weight is saved and the brakes stay cooler with hollow rotors with vanes in the center section that basically act like a big fan when the car is moving (I know stoptech does that you can see the vanes in the picture on their homepage http://www.stoptech.com/, probably a lot of other BBK manufacturers do it too) And so slotted or cross drilled rotors basically aren't very useful anymore. They just look nice.

Basically that's the reasoning behind the statement on my site.

 

I've heard around that it actually doesn't make too much of a difference how much surface area the brakes have. All OEM systems can lock up the brakes pretty darn well. What matters more is that the brakes can cool themselves in high heat conditions, which bigger and hollow fan blade rotors help with.

 

If you drive on the highway it matters when you have to come to a quick stop.

 

Cross Drilled Rotors serve no purpose other then to satisfy the bling bling craving of insecure idiots that think they have better braking and drive a race car.

As for using them on the track, NO you're worse off, stick with solid rotors.

This is what happens of a few lapping days at the track,



I have these now has they have gone through 8 plus hard lapping days with 0 problems.


Save yourself the trouble and stick with normal rotors if you go anywhere near the track or drive hard on the street.

 

I love mine. I can tell a slight difference in daily driving, but it could also be the pads, since I changed them to Metal Masters.

No problems here.

 

Your pads made the difference and that is the perception problem. People change to x-drilled rotors see an improved difference and forget that they also changed the pads. Pads are the biggest factor in brake performance over any other brake part.

 

That's why I'm on carbon metallic pads now. There's no lying about these pads when I say they boost brake performance tremendously.

 

good point .. i used metal masters on my cross drilleds. i only pray that mines dont crack like that pic.

next time around will be the real deal BB kit.

 

BB kit or SB kit DON"T GET X-DRILLED Rotors.

 

Around the time this thread started I was watching a Trans Am SCCA race on Speed. The one thing I noticed watching them pit was all the cars I saw had slotted rotors, no cross drilled just slotted. The slots were not a series of a few long angled slots but several shorter ones that were angled and spaced.

I've seen this type of rotor on many other forms of racing also. Like rally and some late model at local tracks.

 

frozenrotors.com........interesting, crossdrilled isnt worth the money, cracked rotor every other day, especially under hard driving

 

First and foremost, if you want to reduce your braking distance, tires are the real key, not brakes. If you want to reduce fade, then invest in good brakes.

Like others have said, cross-drilled and slotted rotors are mostly a bling-bling mod for a street car. If you want excellent braking performance, invest is some summer tires, good quality "street" pads, and good quality brake fluid. You can go on step further with upgrading the calipers and also adding some slightly beefer rotors like the Brembo blanks. Everything else is pretty much a waste, IMO. I love my braking setup and all it includes is some super sticky Sumitomo HTR+s and high performance brake pads. My brakes never lock (non-ABS) and the car stops far better than stock. I do get minimal fade after three repeated stops from 60-0, but I'm still running the original fluid that's 99K miles old Of course, how often will I have to make 3 panic stops in a row.



Dave

 

You should still be able to lock your brakes even if you are running slicks, if you can't then they are NOT working as they should be.