~~Please Reply with YOUR OWN EXPERIENCE...What pads did u buy that Squeal or Dont???
09-14-2003, 12:43 AM
#1
~~Please Reply with YOUR OWN EXPERIENCE...What pads did u buy that Squeal or Dont???
ok my brakes are done & cant afford BB kit right now. I'm getting either slotted or crossdrilled/slotted rotors but cant decide which pads to get. (also getting the SS lines)
I've been reading alot of people complain about squeal noise w/ certain pads. Someone told me to only get Ceramic &/or Kevlar brake pads-- only ones I found were the Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads. Or I also read people using OEM brake pads w/ aftermarket rotors....would this actually work....if so, are OEM brake pads Ceramic?
Thanks
p.s. Also name what pads YOU EXPERIENCED no squeals or squeals!
I've been reading alot of people complain about squeal noise w/ certain pads. Someone told me to only get Ceramic &/or Kevlar brake pads-- only ones I found were the Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads. Or I also read people using OEM brake pads w/ aftermarket rotors....would this actually work....if so, are OEM brake pads Ceramic?
Thanks
p.s. Also name what pads YOU EXPERIENCED no squeals or squeals!
09-14-2003, 04:55 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
OEM are ceramic.
Consider purchasing Porterfields/HAWK pads.
If you aren't purchasing OEM brake pads, I suggest you purchase the 4th gen brake hardware kit from Nissan. The pads are different from 4th to 5th gen, but all the aftermarket companies assume they are the same, but they're not.
Consider purchasing Porterfields/HAWK pads.
If you aren't purchasing OEM brake pads, I suggest you purchase the 4th gen brake hardware kit from Nissan. The pads are different from 4th to 5th gen, but all the aftermarket companies assume they are the same, but they're not.
09-14-2003, 07:11 AM
#7
I tried Raybestos QS and regular Raybestos as well as Bendix. They were all quiet but dusted WAY too much. The Bendix and QS also glazed on me after a month...
I got cross drilled slotted Brembos and decided to go with OEM pads front and rear. Of all the pads I've tried, OEM are the best. They stop well, are silent, and put out hardly any dust. They're worth the inflated dealer price IMO
-Tony
I got cross drilled slotted Brembos and decided to go with OEM pads front and rear. Of all the pads I've tried, OEM are the best. They stop well, are silent, and put out hardly any dust. They're worth the inflated dealer price IMO
-Tony
09-14-2003, 08:09 AM
#9
Originally Posted by K Pazzo 6
thanks...looks like i'm leaning towards OEM pads
i have no problems with this set up and i'm on my 2nd set of pads in the front.
with the metal master pads my wheels stay cleaner longer than with oem pads and i need that because i have chrome wheels.
09-14-2003, 02:13 PM
#10
Originally Posted by K Pazzo 6
thanks...looks like i'm leaning towards OEM pads
I just tossed em and replaced them with the OEM pads. I used the shims from the axxis pads since they had a fine film of rubber on them and even applied a bit of no squeal to top it off. They are quiet as hell when slowing down (unlike the axxis pads, which sounded like a damn shuttle when slowing down)and I no longer have any squeals.
09-14-2003, 09:26 PM
#18
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Axxis Metal Masters, Quite.
09-15-2003, 08:26 AM
#20
Make sure your shims are in good shape, and you buy some brake quietiting grease. I've got a set of pads from Auto Value, I think they are Warner replacement pads, they are silent. Just put the grease and shims on there. BTW those CD/slotted rotors will be noisier than stock. That's not to say they will necessarily squeal, but they will at least be audible under braking if you have your windows down and radio off for instance.
09-15-2003, 09:25 AM
#23
now i'm leaning towards Axxis Metal Masters
.....Anybody have any experience w/ Axxis Ultimate Pads or Deluxe???
well i changed my mind over the weekend & i'm going w/ dimpled/slotted rotors....does that make a difference?
.....Anybody have any experience w/ Axxis Ultimate Pads or Deluxe???
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Make sure your shims are in good shape, and you buy some brake quietiting grease. I've got a set of pads from Auto Value, I think they are Warner replacement pads, they are silent. Just put the grease and shims on there. BTW those CD/slotted rotors will be noisier than stock. That's not to say they will necessarily squeal, but they will at least be audible under braking if you have your windows down and radio off for instance.
09-15-2003, 10:39 AM
#25
Originally Posted by maximaman777
Slotted rotors should eliminate noise from the pads. When you do a brake job you need to re-grease the bolts. This step is very important to keep your brakes quiet.
which bolts?
09-15-2003, 10:49 AM
#27
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,815
Originally Posted by K Pazzo 6
which bolts?
The caliper bolts. 2 per caliper and have rubber boots on them. hitting the shims lighty is a good idea also.
When putting on the SS lines you will need to replace all brake fluid. If you have access to a compressor there are kits sold to do this with much less mess that give a VERY quick/good bleed. 2 Person job but worth it. DO NOT get the fluid on the car!
09-15-2003, 11:26 AM
#29
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,815
Give me a minute and I'll post a link in this post to the type of bleeder kit also.
Here you go http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jht...D=5551&BQ=jcw2
They also have one, but it's twice as much, that you can use it you don't have a compressor. You should be able to find something similar at any auto parts store but this is the type you should use. No mess and it not only does a very good job it does it quickly.
A couple of flare nut wrenches will also be a big help with the lines. You need 2 different size wrenches for the lines, I just don't remember the sizes. #11 in the diagram above uses one size and the other end of the line has another. But you will need 2 wrenches for the other end because it's a compression fitting and you don't want to twist the metal "hard" brake line. I think it's 10mm & 14mm but I'm not completely sure.
Lastly the main PITA in doing this is the line retainer clips. Not a big deal just a pain. Let me know when you're going to do the job and I'll give you some more pointers.
Here you go http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jht...D=5551&BQ=jcw2
They also have one, but it's twice as much, that you can use it you don't have a compressor. You should be able to find something similar at any auto parts store but this is the type you should use. No mess and it not only does a very good job it does it quickly.
A couple of flare nut wrenches will also be a big help with the lines. You need 2 different size wrenches for the lines, I just don't remember the sizes. #11 in the diagram above uses one size and the other end of the line has another. But you will need 2 wrenches for the other end because it's a compression fitting and you don't want to twist the metal "hard" brake line. I think it's 10mm & 14mm but I'm not completely sure.
Lastly the main PITA in doing this is the line retainer clips. Not a big deal just a pain. Let me know when you're going to do the job and I'll give you some more pointers.
09-15-2003, 12:29 PM
#30
Originally Posted by maximaman777
The caliper bolts. 2 per caliper and have rubber boots on them. hitting the shims lighty is a good idea also.
When putting on the SS lines you will need to replace all brake fluid. If you have access to a compressor there are kits sold to do this with much less mess that give a VERY quick/good bleed. 2 Person job but worth it. DO NOT get the fluid on the car!
When putting on the SS lines you will need to replace all brake fluid. If you have access to a compressor there are kits sold to do this with much less mess that give a VERY quick/good bleed. 2 Person job but worth it. DO NOT get the fluid on the car!
09-15-2003, 12:32 PM
#32
09-15-2003, 12:35 PM
#33
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,815
2 and you'll have some left over. If you can get it close by get 1. The system doesn't hold much but doing a full flush should use up at least 1 bottle and if you can't get it near by you'll want that 2nd on hand just in case.
09-15-2003, 12:49 PM
#34
if you've got ABS, you'll need 2-3 quarts. without ABS, you can bleed the system with less than a quart.
Here's my experiences with various pads:
OEM. quiet. some dust. fade on hard driving in front, glazed shoes in the back.
Axxis Metal Master: sounded like a school bus. not much fade, but they were so noisy I tossed them.
Beck Arnley. Heavy dust, fade horribly on hard driving. quiet.
Bendix IQ. quiet. fair amount of dust, decent performance.
Then I upgraded to wilwood calipers in front and bigger rotors in the rear.....
Porterfield R4S. Quiet. Heavy dust. gouged up rotors. some fade on hard driving.
Hawk HPS. heavy dust. Fade on hard driving. squeaky, but not horrible.
Hawk black. DO NOT use these on a street car. track only. ruined a set of skyline rotors in 3 days. worse than installing rocks instead of pads.
Raybestos Quiet Stop. very little dust. squeaks a bit when cold after you've previously driven them hard. some fade on hard driving, but comes back quickly. I use these for every day driving.
Wilwood D compound. HEAVY dust. great performance. high torque, low rotor wear. short pad life. only fades on REALLY hard driving. great for auto X or light braking road course.
Wilwood E compound. No noise. Heavy dust. excellent performance, easy on rotors. Using ATE blue fluid, I get fluid fade before pad fade. I use these for heavy braking road courses, and can consistently outbrake most of the other cars on the track.
Here's my experiences with various pads:
OEM. quiet. some dust. fade on hard driving in front, glazed shoes in the back.
Axxis Metal Master: sounded like a school bus. not much fade, but they were so noisy I tossed them.
Beck Arnley. Heavy dust, fade horribly on hard driving. quiet.
Bendix IQ. quiet. fair amount of dust, decent performance.
Then I upgraded to wilwood calipers in front and bigger rotors in the rear.....
Porterfield R4S. Quiet. Heavy dust. gouged up rotors. some fade on hard driving.
Hawk HPS. heavy dust. Fade on hard driving. squeaky, but not horrible.
Hawk black. DO NOT use these on a street car. track only. ruined a set of skyline rotors in 3 days. worse than installing rocks instead of pads.
Raybestos Quiet Stop. very little dust. squeaks a bit when cold after you've previously driven them hard. some fade on hard driving, but comes back quickly. I use these for every day driving.
Wilwood D compound. HEAVY dust. great performance. high torque, low rotor wear. short pad life. only fades on REALLY hard driving. great for auto X or light braking road course.
Wilwood E compound. No noise. Heavy dust. excellent performance, easy on rotors. Using ATE blue fluid, I get fluid fade before pad fade. I use these for heavy braking road courses, and can consistently outbrake most of the other cars on the track.
09-15-2003, 01:17 PM
#35
Thanks for Thread Link & Info......
Damn looks like you had ALOT of brake experiences....is this all on the same car or different cars?
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
if you've got ABS, you'll need 2-3 quarts. without ABS, you can bleed the system with less than a quart.
Here's my experiences with various pads:
OEM. quiet. some dust. fade on hard driving in front, glazed shoes in the back.
Axxis Metal Master: sounded like a school bus. not much fade, but they were so noisy I tossed them.
Beck Arnley. Heavy dust, fade horribly on hard driving. quiet.
Bendix IQ. quiet. fair amount of dust, decent performance.
Then I upgraded to wilwood calipers in front and bigger rotors in the rear.....
Porterfield R4S. Quiet. Heavy dust. gouged up rotors. some fade on hard driving.
Hawk HPS. heavy dust. Fade on hard driving. squeaky, but not horrible.
Hawk black. DO NOT use these on a street car. track only. ruined a set of skyline rotors in 3 days. worse than installing rocks instead of pads.
Raybestos Quiet Stop. very little dust. squeaks a bit when cold after you've previously driven them hard. some fade on hard driving, but comes back quickly. I use these for every day driving.
Wilwood D compound. HEAVY dust. great performance. high torque, low rotor wear. short pad life. only fades on REALLY hard driving. great for auto X or light braking road course.
Wilwood E compound. No noise. Heavy dust. excellent performance, easy on rotors. Using ATE blue fluid, I get fluid fade before pad fade. I use these for heavy braking road courses, and can consistently outbrake most of the other cars on the track.
Here's my experiences with various pads:
OEM. quiet. some dust. fade on hard driving in front, glazed shoes in the back.
Axxis Metal Master: sounded like a school bus. not much fade, but they were so noisy I tossed them.
Beck Arnley. Heavy dust, fade horribly on hard driving. quiet.
Bendix IQ. quiet. fair amount of dust, decent performance.
Then I upgraded to wilwood calipers in front and bigger rotors in the rear.....
Porterfield R4S. Quiet. Heavy dust. gouged up rotors. some fade on hard driving.
Hawk HPS. heavy dust. Fade on hard driving. squeaky, but not horrible.
Hawk black. DO NOT use these on a street car. track only. ruined a set of skyline rotors in 3 days. worse than installing rocks instead of pads.
Raybestos Quiet Stop. very little dust. squeaks a bit when cold after you've previously driven them hard. some fade on hard driving, but comes back quickly. I use these for every day driving.
Wilwood D compound. HEAVY dust. great performance. high torque, low rotor wear. short pad life. only fades on REALLY hard driving. great for auto X or light braking road course.
Wilwood E compound. No noise. Heavy dust. excellent performance, easy on rotors. Using ATE blue fluid, I get fluid fade before pad fade. I use these for heavy braking road courses, and can consistently outbrake most of the other cars on the track.
Damn looks like you had ALOT of brake experiences....is this all on the same car or different cars?
09-15-2003, 01:34 PM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,883
Originally Posted by lcf
I went aftermarket once... squeeled like a ****. Went back to OEM.
09-15-2003, 01:37 PM
#38
Originally Posted by K Pazzo 6
Thanks for Thread Link & Info......
Damn looks like you had ALOT of brake experiences....is this all on the same car or different cars?
Damn looks like you had ALOT of brake experiences....is this all on the same car or different cars?
the OE calipers were all on my GXE pretty much. I totalled it and bought my SE about two years ago. so all the pads on the wilwood calipers have been in the last two years. at first, they didn't have a ceramic compound for street use, so I was using race pads on the street. they'd last about 6 weeks before I wore the pads out.
now I'm using raybestos quiet stop (wilwood Q series) and they're great for street use. quiet, low dust, and perform well enough for street. they last about a year or so on a set. I've gone through one set since I bought them, and am about halfway through the second.
