JAY25

iTrader: (38)

We talk about suspension and all that silly **** millions of times etc...but we all forget that poor engine needs to get cooled for the summer and we have to prevent the fluid from freezing for winter time. Back in 95 I was in auto technology class and I remember discussing the issue. One thing I have learned is that is you must flush out the radiator fluid every summer. Why? it breaks down because it is constantly cooling the engine down. It is oil, cools and lubricates the engine. There is a took you can use and forgot the name of it and it will inform you how much protection or how good is that coolant in your radiator, but cant think the name of it.


Now for all you careless little individuals who just get in the car and drive pop your hood one day and pour out the coolant bottle, look at the bottom of that coolant bottle, see all that build up, greenish black slush build up and rust thats not good. Yes that white plastic bottle that holds coolant slides up and out.

Now the the discussing part: Ramius83 came over this weekend when I was removing my power steering supercharger lines since I was selling the blower, he looks at my coolant bottle and says to me "your coolant is bright orange!" I said yes, he said your not suppose that coolant its a GM coolant only it has dexcool in it. Okay no problem, Ill do some research about it and because the bottle read for all alloy radiators. Now I spoke to some old techs who know their stuff went back to NAPA and reread the bottle again. The back of the bottle said it contains Ethylene Glycol I looked for straight dexcool but it did not say it. I asked the guy whats with the orange coolants vs the green ones? he said he has the green coolant but the orange ones do contain dexcool. So what is dexcool I replied? he said GM is uses dexcool to protect the radiator. That response holds true, how is that, my car had 44K in it when I did the first radiator fluid, I did not drive my car that hard then. Inside the bottle it had green slush and rust on the bottom but I cleaned it out. I flushed out all the green coolant and started using the orange coolant by prestone since it is the most expensive coolant @$7 a gallon. Ever since 97 I been using it in my maxima, I wont lie the bottle still had some crap in it since I flush every summer but not as bad as the green coolant. In all you can use Zerex and the gray bottle prestone coolant which has an orange cap. I have not had overheating issues. One thing you YOU CAN NOT DO with these coolants is mix them. they will slush up in the engine, bye bye engine. I saw it slush up on my wifes Mitsubishi coolant hoses since her hoses dont seal as well as ours since we use bolts to clamp our hoses they use pressure clamps she had some green coolant residue and when combined with the orange you see a bunch of crap build up. So if you do decide to go with the orange coolants please flush out every bit of green out of the engine.

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

See thats exactly what people used to tell me. I got that Zerex stuff about 6months ago when I came to ATL when my overheating problems were getting worse. But I put it in to a 75% water 25% coolant mix and the problems went down to the amount of times it happened, but not completely away.

But the wierd this is the one I got, I had to mix it. It didnt come premixed.

Dixit

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

what are you using? I may need to come to your house again, need to use one of your tools if you dont mind, will only take like 3 mins to use it.

mzmtg

iTrader: (11)

Orange and green anti freeze ARE NOT interchangeable. Our cars were designed for green and should be kept green.

See this article from Car and Driver for more info:

http://www.caranddriver.com/article....&page_number=1

A proper coolant mix of 50% water & 50% antifreeze should not have any overheating issues.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

Nice write up but he said if its green stay green, and these additives are catering to the old generation of cars. Green is also cheaper, but I been using orange and boost pretty often and drive very long distances and have not had no heating issues of any type. As a matter of fact Ben I bought a car just like yours and it was a bit too hot for a stock car and dumped a bottle of Zerex and it now runs fine.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

just food for thought the Dexcool (orange coolant) has been known to destroy many GM cars...massive clogging/sludge build up as little as 30-40K miles.

The difference between the green and the orange is for extended drain...so they claim.

i would also look into toyota's red coolant. contains no silca and i have not heard of any problems of sludge in the systems. quite pricy but it's cheaper than rebuild.

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Jay, what you need to use? I thought you have more tools than I do

This radiator debate gets me confused like crazy. DanNY I know you told me about DexCool awhile ago when I had that thread in the Fluids forum and we and IceY2k1 discussed this very deeply. If Dexcool has been known to destroy radiators then I need to get it out.

Problem is getting all the crap out. The rear drain plug aint too hard to get to, but the front one, I honestly cant find it, maybe with my turbo piping and all that crap in the way I cant see it. But there has to be an easier way to drain the radiator fluid then removing the block holes. Just doing the radiator only removed about 50-65% of the fluid, the rest is still in the block and hoses.

Anyone know of an easier method/clean-ier method?

Dixit

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

is not hard to flush that stuff out, the key is patience, the weird thing is that I been using orange coolant for the longest and have not had no issues of any types. According to the both bottles is good for alloy radiators and our radiators are made of alloy vs steel. Apparently everyone is going color crazy, the main ingredient in coolant is Ethylene Glycol, dexcool is just an additive but I have not seen any slush of any type.


I need to use your yellow cutter to cut a fuel rail right quick. Ill give you a call.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

IMO the only way to really get it all out is to flush it with water. when you think you're done...keep flushing.

back in the day GM cars had these big long **** heater hose and prestone made a neat little device to flush the system out w/ your hose..but the maxima is not really made for something like that to be installed.

back on topic..if you really want to get at it go and remove the thermostat and flush from there. if your engine coolant passages are relatively clear it should flush right out...water in and water out (lower radiator hose removed of course).

don't forget to flush the heater core...pull the 2 hoses out and flush the same as engine..water in and water out.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

might just be "GM Dexcool" set up...not sure on what's the difference but IMO i don't trust it. if it works for you then keep using it.

ivelweyz

I have that crap. How would I flush the coolant out guys???

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

I've been using Toyota Red for a few years...

I flush the engine with just water between the changes so as to get most the old stuff out... Just run it up so water circulates than let cool and drain... refill with coolant mixture.

ivelweyz

OK got it...

UncleMax98

I have been using Prestone orange coolant (Dexcool) for over 50,000 miles. No problem yet. The orange coolant looks clean the last time I change it. No sludge or deposit of any kind. I shone a flashlight into the radiator and it was shiny clean. Since the orange stuff has worked well so far, can I just keep using it? Is there anything I can do (or not do) so it won't suddenly turn bad and destroy the engine?

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

I been using it for over 35K on my boosted maxima and all my cars that I owned up to date and no overheating sludging problems either. Dont know if they are adding color additives or what. If the prestone and Zerex was only for GM then they would not sell it. Also the way I see it, if Zerex blows up my ride they are going to pay for it and I know they are not going to risk putting something on the market that says for all alloy radiators. I too flush my radiator and engine out with water etc..but have not had any issues nor sludge and the radiator is nice and clean. One more thing Nissan recommends radiator flush at 70K, thats just too many miles on the car to do a radiator flush the car should be at least on its 2nd or third flush by 70K, if not think of all the sludge and rust and breakdown of the coolant in the car, doesnt make sense to me , just a great way to break some ****

Cutler

iTrader: (3)

I use Prestone 50/50 Quick fill, works great! It helps out on my SUV, truck is running nice and cool. Don't use the Dexcool on the Max, I don't recommend it and neither did my service guy at the dealer I use to take both my Maximas to.

Turbo95Max

iTrader: (25)

i use Honda coolant and Redline water wetter in my Max, and most of my customers also. Honda coolant contains no silca and dunno bout the rest. i think simlar to Toyota but not red.

Dave Holmes

For flushing your complete system, Prestone makes the flush kit. It's basically a "T" fitting that is installed in one of your heater hoses. Then a garden hose screws on to it and flushes the entire system. When not in use, it has a threaded cap to seal it. I have one installed on mine (and my wife's '88 Nissan p/u). It is very accessible, underneath and slightly towards the firewall from the stock intake tubing/resonator. Only costs a couple bucks, and makes flushing the cooling system very easy and thorough. You should be able to find them at AutoZone, WalMart, etc... And instructions come with it.

Dave

ivelweyz

I just looked inside the white coolant tank and there are these shrooms swimming around. You know when bread gets bad it becomes green and has like pores or something? I see a big one floating in the top of the tank...