Wow. My car drives SOOOO much better. What I did to it this weekend ->
02-20-2001, 07:58 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
1) Changed the transmission oil from the ???type 80W90 the shop put when installing the new tranny with Amsoil 75W90. Wow, shifting feel is completely different now. The majority of notchiness and stiffness is gone. I can't believe the improvement - far more than I ever experienced before with the old tranny...that shop must have put in some crappy oil, for sure.
2) Oil change - Amsoil 5W30 and Nissan filter. The old oil+filter (same types) only had 3000 miles, but I'm trying to baseline the condition of my motor/oil with Blackstone Labs. I doubt this made any difference in the running of the motor, but it probably helped a tiny little bit.
3) The most important thing I think I did...I did this to my GF's old Geo Metro and it made a pretty significant improvement in power and smoothness...I "steam cleaned" my motor. Maybe some of you guys have heard this old trick some mechanics will do, but here are the basic steps:
1-Find a vacuum hose that is "on" at idle (pulling vacuum), and also has plenty of loose length (~6" or more). I used the one that goes into the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor, located at the right front of the front cylinder bank.
2-Fill up a cup (~8-10 ozs) of deionized/drinking water (not tap!-crap inside!).
3-With the engine idling, dip the vacuum hose into the cup. Manually rev the motor to keep the engine from quitting. The engine will run really poorly at this point. Hold the line in the water for a few seconds and continue to throttle. Remove the line and let the engine clear out the water inside it until it runs smoother again. You'll see lots of water vapor coming out of the tailpipe during this also. "Steam clean".
4-Continue to repeat step 3 until all the water is gone.
5-When done with the steam clean, get a bottle of Chemtool cleaner or like (basically carb cleaner/throttle body cleaner, only something with an open top to dip the vacuum hose into). Continue steps 3 and 4, only using the solvent this time.
5-When done, let the car idle for 5-10 minutes to clear out any remaining junk.
My car has noticeably better power than before. Much better...I'm very surprised. The engine also runs much smoother, and idles smoother with less jumping of the tach.
My car has 76K miles, and it made quite a difference. If you guys are at all mechanically inclined, I recommend this highly!
Oh yeah, I now got my new new tires installed also (SP5000s), had my minorly-bent wheel (that gave a major vibration) replaced, replaced the rear speakers (left rear blown last week) with a set of Infinity's, and Zaino'd the car. My car runs smooth, smooth, smooth, looks pimp, sounds -well- at least a little pimp-er...
I'm a happy camper!
[Edited by Keven97SE on 02-20-2001 at 10:01 AM]
2) Oil change - Amsoil 5W30 and Nissan filter. The old oil+filter (same types) only had 3000 miles, but I'm trying to baseline the condition of my motor/oil with Blackstone Labs. I doubt this made any difference in the running of the motor, but it probably helped a tiny little bit.
3) The most important thing I think I did...I did this to my GF's old Geo Metro and it made a pretty significant improvement in power and smoothness...I "steam cleaned" my motor. Maybe some of you guys have heard this old trick some mechanics will do, but here are the basic steps:
1-Find a vacuum hose that is "on" at idle (pulling vacuum), and also has plenty of loose length (~6" or more). I used the one that goes into the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor, located at the right front of the front cylinder bank.
2-Fill up a cup (~8-10 ozs) of deionized/drinking water (not tap!-crap inside!).
3-With the engine idling, dip the vacuum hose into the cup. Manually rev the motor to keep the engine from quitting. The engine will run really poorly at this point. Hold the line in the water for a few seconds and continue to throttle. Remove the line and let the engine clear out the water inside it until it runs smoother again. You'll see lots of water vapor coming out of the tailpipe during this also. "Steam clean".
4-Continue to repeat step 3 until all the water is gone.
5-When done with the steam clean, get a bottle of Chemtool cleaner or like (basically carb cleaner/throttle body cleaner, only something with an open top to dip the vacuum hose into). Continue steps 3 and 4, only using the solvent this time.
5-When done, let the car idle for 5-10 minutes to clear out any remaining junk.
My car has noticeably better power than before. Much better...I'm very surprised. The engine also runs much smoother, and idles smoother with less jumping of the tach.
My car has 76K miles, and it made quite a difference. If you guys are at all mechanically inclined, I recommend this highly!
Oh yeah, I now got my new new tires installed also (SP5000s), had my minorly-bent wheel (that gave a major vibration) replaced, replaced the rear speakers (left rear blown last week) with a set of Infinity's, and Zaino'd the car. My car runs smooth, smooth, smooth, looks pimp, sounds -well- at least a little pimp-er...
I'm a happy camper!
[Edited by Keven97SE on 02-20-2001 at 10:01 AM]
02-20-2001, 08:52 AM
#5
The missing moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,019
Keven,
The honda circuit uses ATF to do the same thing you did... will smoke a lot, but I hear the ATF will clean up the deposits pretty good. Only thing is if the motor has lots of miles, doing this could cause it to start burning oil... all the gunk is cleaned off of the rings....
-Shing
The honda circuit uses ATF to do the same thing you did... will smoke a lot, but I hear the ATF will clean up the deposits pretty good. Only thing is if the motor has lots of miles, doing this could cause it to start burning oil... all the gunk is cleaned off of the rings....
-Shing
02-20-2001, 09:28 AM
#6
HA!! i knew it..i said a while back to use ATF and people though i was crazy! where are u JimW..were u the one that said it wasn't ATF!?!?
Originally posted by Shingles
Keven,
The honda circuit uses ATF to do the same thing you did... will smoke a lot, but I hear the ATF will clean up the deposits pretty good. Only thing is if the motor has lots of miles, doing this could cause it to start burning oil... all the gunk is cleaned off of the rings....
-Shing
Keven,
The honda circuit uses ATF to do the same thing you did... will smoke a lot, but I hear the ATF will clean up the deposits pretty good. Only thing is if the motor has lots of miles, doing this could cause it to start burning oil... all the gunk is cleaned off of the rings....
-Shing
02-20-2001, 09:44 AM
#7
Eh Keven! Can you pin point me exactly which vacuum hose you used? a graph maybe? I just want to make sure I am using the right one. Thanks
Originally posted by Keven97SE
3) The most important thing I think I did...I did this to my GF's old Geo Metro and it made a pretty significant improvement in power and smoothness...I "steam cleaned" my motor. Maybe some of you guys have heard this old trick some mechanics will do, but here are the basic steps:
1-Find a vacuum hose that is "on" at idle (pulling vacuum), and also has plenty of loose length (~6" or more). I used the one that goes into the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor, located at the right front of the front cylinder bank.
[Edited by Keven97SE on 02-20-2001 at 10:01 AM]
3) The most important thing I think I did...I did this to my GF's old Geo Metro and it made a pretty significant improvement in power and smoothness...I "steam cleaned" my motor. Maybe some of you guys have heard this old trick some mechanics will do, but here are the basic steps:
1-Find a vacuum hose that is "on" at idle (pulling vacuum), and also has plenty of loose length (~6" or more). I used the one that goes into the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor, located at the right front of the front cylinder bank.
[Edited by Keven97SE on 02-20-2001 at 10:01 AM]
02-20-2001, 11:35 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
It's the one labeled "boost sensor" here. See the vacuum line plugging into the bottom of it? Disconnect that one. That's the end you're going to dip into the water/solvent. There's a good 9" of free length on that line, enough to do what you need to do.
PICTURE->
PICTURE->
Originally posted by kajeno
Eh Keven! Can you pin point me exactly which vacuum hose you used? a graph maybe? I just want to make sure I am using the right one. Thanks
Eh Keven! Can you pin point me exactly which vacuum hose you used? a graph maybe? I just want to make sure I am using the right one. Thanks
Originally posted by Keven97SE
3) The most important thing I think I did...I did this to my GF's old Geo Metro and it made a pretty significant improvement in power and smoothness...I "steam cleaned" my motor. Maybe some of you guys have heard this old trick some mechanics will do, but here are the basic steps:
1-Find a vacuum hose that is "on" at idle (pulling vacuum), and also has plenty of loose length (~6" or more). I used the one that goes into the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor, located at the right front of the front cylinder bank.
[Edited by Keven97SE on 02-20-2001 at 10:01 AM]
3) The most important thing I think I did...I did this to my GF's old Geo Metro and it made a pretty significant improvement in power and smoothness...I "steam cleaned" my motor. Maybe some of you guys have heard this old trick some mechanics will do, but here are the basic steps:
1-Find a vacuum hose that is "on" at idle (pulling vacuum), and also has plenty of loose length (~6" or more). I used the one that goes into the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor, located at the right front of the front cylinder bank.
[Edited by Keven97SE on 02-20-2001 at 10:01 AM]
02-21-2001, 07:45 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 218
just a quick question. on my 95, i don't seem to have a boost sensor. any quick thoughts on which hose i could use? also, does anybody know how this works? i thought that you were supposed to avoid getting water into your engine? thanks for any info.
02-21-2001, 09:10 PM
#11
Originally posted by 95greense
just a quick question. on my 95, i don't seem to have a boost sensor. any quick thoughts on which hose i could use? also, does anybody know how this works? i thought that you were supposed to avoid getting water into your engine? thanks for any info.
just a quick question. on my 95, i don't seem to have a boost sensor. any quick thoughts on which hose i could use? also, does anybody know how this works? i thought that you were supposed to avoid getting water into your engine? thanks for any info.
Yes, liquid water is bad for your engine. However, this technique brings the water in through a tiny orifice in the intake tract (wherever that vacuum line attatches). The water hits the hot insides of the manifold and ports and vaporizes instantly. Steam is compressible just like any other gas...so no problem.
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