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HOW TO bleed a clutch?

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Old 12-07-2003, 04:48 PM
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HOW TO bleed a clutch?

I went to motorvate and got instructions but they dont seem to be making it work.

I got the clutch pedal to come back up on its own but the clutch engaging point is way too close to the ground...

please help with your OWN instructions on how I am supposed to do this...

THANK YOU
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Old 12-07-2003, 05:59 PM
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Ok..hope I can remember this...first...like any normal clutch bleed...pump the pedal until you get pressure then hold it down...have someone or yourself..bleed through the master bleeder (near the strut housing)...repeat until there is no more air coming outta there, NOW move to the slave cylinder...near the transmission, and repeat the bleeding procedure...once all the air is outta that one...pat yourself and your helper on the back...you're done!
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Old 12-07-2003, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by nupe500
Ok..hope I can remember this...first...like any normal clutch bleed...pump the pedal until you get pressure then hold it down...have someone or yourself..bleed through the master bleeder (near the strut housing)...repeat until there is no more air coming outta there, NOW move to the slave cylinder...near the transmission, and repeat the bleeding procedure...once all the air is outta that one...pat yourself and your helper on the back...you're done!
how do you know all the air is out?
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Old 12-07-2003, 09:02 PM
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When there is no spongy feeling to the clutch. It should feel solid all the way down.
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Old 12-07-2003, 10:22 PM
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More importantly, when there are no more bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve.
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Old 12-07-2003, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by IwANnAMaX96
More importantly, when there are no more bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve.
Yea that and when it dont feel spongy, only reason I say this is because it can be a false positive, you could have an air bubble near the master cylinder and while bleeding it see no air bubbles coming out, you basically probably moved that air bubble half way down the clutch line. So its also based on no spongy feeling.

I just finished my 5spd swap and I bled the clutch in flat out 5mins. Not to mention all the lines were dry. Using a vacuum bleeder works wonders.

Dixit
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Old 12-07-2003, 10:43 PM
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I was under the impression that that's the reason why you bleed near the master first then near the slave cylinder.
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Old 12-07-2003, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by IwANnAMaX96
I was under the impression that that's the reason why you bleed near the master first then near the slave cylinder.
There is no place to bleed on the master cylinder itself. Usually done at the slave, unless you put a bleeder screw/valve on one of the T sections that breaks off and goes to the cooling line.

I dont have any of that, straight shot from master to slave using -3an line.
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Old 12-07-2003, 11:09 PM
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so whats the sequence....i was told by one person to do the slave cyl bleed first and another to do the upper valve bleed first.....
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Old 12-07-2003, 11:13 PM
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if I was you, just bleed it from the slave, its the last section, cant go wrong there. If you want to do both, then bleed the upper section first, then the slave.

Dixit
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Old 12-09-2003, 08:38 AM
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You must do both and understand that it can take a long time. I sat there for a minimum of 30-45 minutes doing it with my father. Its a slow process.
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