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Wierd Idle issue when clutch depressed while moving....

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Old 12-10-2003, 06:47 PM
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Wierd Idle issue when clutch depressed while moving....

Let me say a few facts first so you got it all in hand before making your suggestion. My vacuum is around 20hg, Fuel pressure 38psi.

Basically the issue is that when Im driving lets say in 5th gear or 4th or whatever gear and im moving at a certain speed where maybe im at 3000rpm and I decide to press the clutch cause im maybe slowing down to come to a light or got to stop for some reason. Well the engine is techniically supposed to go to idle at that point if you hold it there long enough. Well mine doesnt, it drops below that, and bounces back up like the ECU is trying to keep it up and sometimes it cant get it to stay on and it just stalls.

Now when I had the auto in there it did almost the same thing, so no it has nothing to do with the 5spd swap. Basically the same in the auto, you know when you come to a stop and the car is dropping speed and rpm, at a certain point sometimes the auto actually pulls out that gear and the rpm will drop to idle until you press the gas again. At that time it used to drop around 500 but never turned off, probably cause the torque converter kept it up enough to stall out.

I know this is hard to grasp or understand so I made a video of this happening twice (stalling out). And yes that is me clutching the car back to life.
http://www.turbofedmax.com/fullpics/5spd/Idleissue.wmv

Neither time did I press the gas (even though it looks like im trying to keep the car from stalling out).

Anyone got any ideas? Only reason this concerns me is that last night I was taking a turn and while the clutch pressed the car stalled out, making it tough to turn the wheel and I almost hit the curb going into my neighborhood.

Dixit

ps. Yes I know I got the airbag light blinking and the ses light is on. SES is on because of the 5spd swap. Airbag, I dont know anymore, I tried to reset it, who knows now.
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:00 PM
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Yeah, same crap here. Someone suggested to clean the throttle body, didn't really help. I have no idea what could be the problem... Nissan wanted to charge me $90 just to check (and most likely not find the problem)
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:13 PM
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my guess would be your running to rich at idle

im not turbo but had the exact same simptoms only a very diferent solution. when i was changing my motor a few months ago i eliminated the carbon canister and ran the vent hose from the gas tank directly into the intake manifold. well i got the motor in and fired it up and every thing was fine took it out for a spin and filled up the tank i was pulling out of the gas station, pushed the clutch in and the car died and it wouldnt idle untill the tank was half empty. i unpluged the hose coming from the tanks and pluged the manifold and it never did this again so i assume when the tank was above a certain level my engine was sucking in unmetered fuel and at idle could compesate ie running rich just a thought and good luck
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:24 PM
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Well dont think its cause im running too rich, cause its only around 40psi at idle, yes I know it should be 32psi but it will still run fine regardless.

Even then, when you start the car and let it idle, there is no problems, it idles around 1200 and then drops to 800 or so (AC is on). Just wierd how it only happens when im driving and the clutch is pressed while trying to slow down.

Dixit
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:26 PM
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I have the same problem sometimes, it'll drop to about 500 or so........
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:36 PM
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Dixit my auto NA maxima does the same exact crap, come to think about it. Needle drops like a brick I dont know why! I am going to start working on that one little by little. Who knows maybe 5 spd swap boost
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Old 12-10-2003, 09:25 PM
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After I installed the Pfi kit, it would stall out half the time I clutch in to stop. I think it's because my bov is on the charged side and the maf sensor is on the non charged side. I installed the safc II and played around with the decel function but the manuals are in japanese so I didn't really know what I was doing.

Last week I turned the idle screw back five turns to raise the idle. When I clutch in now, it drops to 1000 rpm and then slowly drops down to 650. It hasn't stalled out yet so far. Just a suggestion for something easy to try out.

Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Let me say a few facts first so you got it all in hand before making your suggestion. My vacuum is around 20hg, Fuel pressure 38psi.

Basically the issue is that when Im driving lets say in 5th gear or 4th or whatever gear and im moving at a certain speed where maybe im at 3000rpm and I decide to press the clutch cause im maybe slowing down to come to a light or got to stop for some reason. Well the engine is techniically supposed to go to idle at that point if you hold it there long enough. Well mine doesnt, it drops below that, and bounces back up like the ECU is trying to keep it up and sometimes it cant get it to stay on and it just stalls.

Now when I had the auto in there it did almost the same thing, so no it has nothing to do with the 5spd swap. Basically the same in the auto, you know when you come to a stop and the car is dropping speed and rpm, at a certain point sometimes the auto actually pulls out that gear and the rpm will drop to idle until you press the gas again. At that time it used to drop around 500 but never turned off, probably cause the torque converter kept it up enough to stall out.

I know this is hard to grasp or understand so I made a video of this happening twice (stalling out). And yes that is me clutching the car back to life.
http://www.turbofedmax.com/fullpics/5spd/Idleissue.wmv

Neither time did I press the gas (even though it looks like im trying to keep the car from stalling out).

Anyone got any ideas? Only reason this concerns me is that last night I was taking a turn and while the clutch pressed the car stalled out, making it tough to turn the wheel and I almost hit the curb going into my neighborhood.

Dixit

ps. Yes I know I got the airbag light blinking and the ses light is on. SES is on because of the 5spd swap. Airbag, I dont know anymore, I tried to reset it, who knows now.
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Old 12-11-2003, 12:30 AM
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Dixit, Lonely Driver did bring up a good point. After I had done my 5-speed conversion, I did have to mess with my Idle adjustment screw on the manifold next/on the IAVC. I think the reason because of this is you now have an 11 pound rotation mass on the crankshaft (ie flywheel lol). I remember I had to turn up the idle about 200-400 RPMs after the swap. I would suggest doing this, and using the S-AFCII RPMs, not your tachometer on the cluster.
 
Old 12-11-2003, 12:38 AM
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The only strange thing about that is that technically he should have a lighter rotating mass since he doest have the torque converter.

Tinkering with the IACV couldnt really hurt, but he also said he was having the same problem with his auto, except for it wouldnt stall.
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Old 12-11-2003, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MrGone
The only strange thing about that is that technically he should have a lighter rotating mass since he doest have the torque converter.

Tinkering with the IACV couldnt really hurt, but he also said he was having the same problem with his auto, except for it wouldnt stall.

I think it's the combination of not having the torque converter and also having a lightweight flywheel...the RPM drops so low so quickly that the ECU doesn't catch it (at that low of an RPM level). Manual tranny Maximas are supposed to idle at what...750 +/- 50 RPM? An auto tranny Maxima idles at 650 +/- 50 (with the help of the torque converter). If you haven't adjusted the idle to at least what the minimum RPM is supposed to be for the manual tranny cars, this could very well be the problem. If you already did that, then maybe there is more than one code on the SES...
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Old 12-11-2003, 08:29 AM
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Doesn't the "Decel Correction" or whatever on the S-AFC fix that?

I'd check your idle speed with a timing light Dixit and perform the Idle Air Volume Learning process, however it may not be necessary since you've apparently reset the ECU. I'm not sure if resetting the ECU forces the ECU to relearn all the base parameters, so it may be worth a shot.

If you need to adjust the idle speed, I'm pretty sure a dealer must do it with a Consult-II. No more screw to turn.
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Old 12-11-2003, 08:31 AM
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Justin, you got the rpm specs backwards for the auto and manual. The auto idles at 700 +/- 50rpm, and the manual should be around 625 +/- 50rpm. With the AC on it should be 825 or more on both.

Call me stupid, but I dont follow yall on raising the RPMs, right now if I come to a light slowly and hold the clutch down with the AC off, it idles right around 750rpm. Doesnt bounce around. If I raise the idle, im going to be at somewhere near 850-900 then, not that I care if it fixes the problem.

Also whats been bugging me is when Im decelerating in gear (engine braking basically) say in 2nd gear (happens in all gears) it jerks back and forth a bit (not as much as if you let off the clutch the wrong way) and it also basically has popping noise coming from the exhaust like as if it is backfiring. They are loud pops.

The only codes on the SES are just the 3 dealing with the TCM not being able to talk to the VB anymore.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 08:33 AM
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Per Apexi website:
"On hot-wire vehicles, the Deceleration Air Flow Correction function is capable of curing the erratic idle and stall problems associated with open-atmosphere blow-off valves on hot-wire air-flow meter systems."
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Old 12-11-2003, 08:40 AM
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Welcome to Nissan 5spds. Mine's always done that, but it gets better with the "Throttle sensitivity TSB". Not sure how that works with an auto ECU though. Just hold in the clutch and coast or pop it into neutral and coast. That's what I do. Our cars run AWESOME when you flog the **** out of them, but slow speed driving is pretty quirky.

As for the backfiring, I'd have to assume that's OPEN-LOOP and if you've tuned open-loop on a dyno while ACCELerating, it's going to be pig rich while DECELerating. Just a guess though.

Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Also whats been bugging me is when Im decelerating in gear (engine braking basically) say in 2nd gear (happens in all gears) it jerks back and forth a bit (not as much as if you let off the clutch the wrong way) and it also basically has popping noise coming from the exhaust like as if it is backfiring. They are loud pops.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 10:17 AM
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Good thinking Alex, I gotta install my SARD FPR on there tonight, cut the shift rod and reweld it (why? cause the 4th gen tranny causes the shift rod to be too far forward, cant shift into 1 3 5 gear with the shift console on).

Also probably going to SeaFoam the throttle body and intake manifold, see how that crap works out. I will use the Decel feature on the SAFC, need to figure out what value though, guess I will play with it.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Good thinking Alex, I gotta install my SARD FPR on there tonight, cut the shift rod and reweld it (why? cause the 4th gen tranny causes the shift rod to be too far forward, cant shift into 1 3 5 gear with the shift console on).
Wow...any other complications using a 4th gen tranny or are they pretty much identical?


I will use the Decel feature on the SAFC, need to figure out what value though, guess I will play with it.

Dixit
I think you just keep increasing it until you don't stall anymore, but I'd ask Kev or someone else who's figured it out. I know the PFI kit stalls whenever you let off, but we only had the Fields AFC which doesn't have that feature. I know you have the Apexi S-AF and supposedly that will fix it.
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Old 12-11-2003, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Wow...any other complications using a 4th gen tranny or are they pretty much identical?
Basically identical to the eye. Me and Jay25 figured out where the difference is.

Is basically the shift assembly coming out the tranny. Lets say ou push it all the way in, so you either in 2 4 or R gear. Now we measured the distance of the that shift lever to a bolt on the opposite side of the tranny, one of the 4 that get attached from the lower part of the upper oil pan. I measured 17.25" Then we did the same for the 5th gen tranny that Jaime has sitting in his house. It measured 17". Because the difference is 1/4" multiplied by a 3ft long shift rod, it ends up making a big difference on the shift rod angle in the car.

Basically put, the shifter looks like it is in N position, well maybe when compared to an OEM car, its really in 2 4 R angle. This is my problem.

Now a 4th gen with a 5thgen 5spd has the OPPOSITE problem. Their shifter is angled too far back. So when it seems like they are in the N position, they technically in the 1 3 5 gear angle. lucky2behere has that problem.

I was going to heat the short throw up to redhot with my welding torch and just bend the suck to the angle I want it. But I think its going to be easier and better if I just cut the shift rod, and take off about 1/4" and reweld it back together. That will give the same effect. Now if I ever go back to a 5th gen 5spd, then obviously I gotta do the opposite of what I did before.

Trials and Tribulations of this crap.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 11:55 AM
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Oh yeah complications, forgot to mention the issues in using a 4th gen tranny in a 5thgen car. Basically nothing. Just need to get a 4th gen drivers side shaft instead of a 5th gen.

Same goes for 4th gens with 5th gen tranny, need to get a 5th gen drivers side shaft. Passenger is not affected.

Also for those of you that didnt believe me on the speedgear, I was right!. I dont have a speedgear. Well I did on the 4th gen, but tore it off the diff when he made it a custom lsd and gave the speed gear to Jay25 and put a cap on the tranny. 5th gens with NO TCS get the speed from the ABS speed ring. If you have TCS you NEED the speedgear in the tranny.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 11:59 AM
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Auuughh...don't you have a Pacesetter or SMC STS?

If so, you can play with that angle until you get it how you want.

My angle is so F'd right now, because my STS ball has slipped, so basically the shift lever is hitting the front of the console in 1-3-5 and appears in the middle around where Neutral would be for 2-4-R. Same as you it sounds. Basically, you can just go the opposite direction, ie slide the ball DOWN, which will move the lever towards the rear of the car.

Anyways, I *THOUGHT* I fixed my SMC STS after the 1st time it happened when it slipped by drilling a hole for the set screw, but I believe it's slipped again. I'm planning on verifying it over christmas and installing a $tealin STS, so I don't have to worry/suspect this BS anymore. If you don't have an adjustable STS, I'd gladly send it to you. Once you get that bish where you want it, I'd cotter pin the *****.

Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Basically identical to the eye. Me and Jay25 figured out where the difference is.

Is basically the shift assembly coming out the tranny. Lets say ou push it all the way in, so you either in 2 4 or R gear. Now we measured the distance of the that shift lever to a bolt on the opposite side of the tranny, one of the 4 that get attached from the lower part of the upper oil pan. I measured 17.25" Then we did the same for the 5th gen tranny that Jaime has sitting in his house. It measured 17". Because the difference is 1/4" multiplied by a 3ft long shift rod, it ends up making a big difference on the shift rod angle in the car.

Basically put, the shifter looks like it is in N position, well maybe when compared to an OEM car, its really in 2 4 R angle. This is my problem.

Now a 4th gen with a 5thgen 5spd has the OPPOSITE problem. Their shifter is angled too far back. So when it seems like they are in the N position, they technically in the 1 3 5 gear angle. lucky2behere has that problem.

I was going to heat the short throw up to redhot with my welding torch and just bend the suck to the angle I want it. But I think its going to be easier and better if I just cut the shift rod, and take off about 1/4" and reweld it back together. That will give the same effect. Now if I ever go back to a 5th gen 5spd, then obviously I gotta do the opposite of what I did before.

Trials and Tribulations of this crap.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 12:02 PM
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You should ADD that to the "How To's" for a 5spd conversion.

People will thank you later!

Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Oh yeah complications, forgot to mention the issues in using a 4th gen tranny in a 5thgen car. Basically nothing. Just need to get a 4th gen drivers side shaft instead of a 5th gen.

Same goes for 4th gens with 5th gen tranny, need to get a 5th gen drivers side shaft. Passenger is not affected.

Also for those of you that didnt believe me on the speedgear, I was right!. I dont have a speedgear. Well I did on the 4th gen, but tore it off the diff when he made it a custom lsd and gave the speed gear to Jay25 and put a cap on the tranny. 5th gens with NO TCS get the speed from the ABS speed ring. If you have TCS you NEED the speedgear in the tranny.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 12:13 PM
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Alex it dont work that way unfortunately. The ball just lowers the shifter or raises it (in our case lowers it to create shorter throw). It really doesnt mess with the angle. If you raise it high enough it will make the shift from 1st to 2nd maybe 2" (thats where I had it before). It really doesnt move the shift angle much, at most 5degrees.

BTW Ive got the pacesetter one, I believe its the only adjustible one. Yet to adjust it is a pure PITA. You have to adjust with the rod out, put it back in bolt the thing back up, go back sit in the seat "feel" the shifter, and then decide if you want to change it or not. I did this 4times. And having the CAT in the way didnt help much at all. Swivel socket is your best friend there.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
You should ADD that to the "How To's" for a 5spd conversion.

People will thank you later!
Actually since you mentioned it, Im in the process of writing a 5spd conversion howto that is going to blow everyone's mind. We talking wiring diagrams for the PNP switch, ignition start, cruise control. Nissan Part# of what you really need and dont need. Parts diagrams, pictures out the ***, torque specs, the works.

This is going to be a very very extensive writeup.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 12:16 PM
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SMC = Pacesetter

It made a HUGE difference on mine Dixit...definitely more then 5-degrees.

How high did you set the ball on yours relative to the threads and the top/bottom of the ball?

Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Alex it dont work that way unfortunately. The ball just lowers the shifter or raises it (in our case lowers it to create shorter throw). It really doesnt mess with the angle. If you raise it high enough it will make the shift from 1st to 2nd maybe 2" (thats where I had it before). It really doesnt move the shift angle much, at most 5degrees.

BTW Ive got the pacesetter one, I believe its the only adjustible one. Yet to adjust it is a pure PITA. You have to adjust with the rod out, put it back in bolt the thing back up, go back sit in the seat "feel" the shifter, and then decide if you want to change it or not. I did this 4times. And having the CAT in the way didnt help much at all. Swivel socket is your best friend there.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 12:18 PM
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Now THAT is what we've needed for a LOOOOOONG time. The 4th gen one was ok, but I know how **** you are on your write-ups, so anybody can follow.

Can't wait to read it!

Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Actually since you mentioned it, Im in the process of writing a 5spd conversion howto that is going to blow everyone's mind. We talking wiring diagrams for the PNP switch, ignition start, cruise control. Nissan Part# of what you really need and dont need. Parts diagrams, pictures out the ***, torque specs, the works.

This is going to be a very very extensive writeup.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 01:26 PM
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Didnt know SMC was Pacesetter. Then again Im slow on all these terms. I adjusted the ball at first 1/4" of threads showing on the top. It was like 3" throw, then moved it to about 1/4" of thread showing from the bottom only, then the throw was too long, so I moved it basically dead center of the threads and the throw is basically 4" from top to bottom. I was going to leave it on the top one except it becomes too notchy while trying to shift even though the throw is very small. I was a bit more throw than that cause thats my style. Im fairly quick even with the stock throw, I can shift damn fast (not to brag though).

Write will be awesome, but I know for a fact im gonna have some noob or moron ask me some dumb question which is unstopable regardless. Probably going to make the write up PDF so its easier to read and print out.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 01:51 PM
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Ok...that's not an issue then.


Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Didnt know SMC was Pacesetter. Then again Im slow on all these terms. I adjusted the ball at first 1/4" of threads showing on the top. It was like 3" throw, then moved it to about 1/4" of thread showing from the bottom only, then the throw was too long, so I moved it basically dead center of the threads and the throw is basically 4" from top to bottom. I was going to leave it on the top one except it becomes too notchy while trying to shift even though the throw is very small. I was a bit more throw than that cause thats my style. Im fairly quick even with the stock throw, I can shift damn fast (not to brag though).

Write will be awesome, but I know for a fact im gonna have some noob or moron ask me some dumb question which is unstopable regardless. Probably going to make the write up PDF so its easier to read and print out.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by JAY25
Dixit my auto NA maxima does the same exact crap, come to think about it. Needle drops like a brick I dont know why! I am going to start working on that one little by little. Who knows maybe 5 spd swap boost
Man if I ever boost, I coming to see you guys.
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Old 12-11-2003, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by deezo
Man if I ever boost, I coming to see you guys.
You know now that you bring that up there are 6 turbo maximas here in the ATL area alone.

Me
Jay25
Bags533
Shadow
Ramius83
Jesse

This is just turbo maxes, I think there are a few s/c maxes as well. We moving up around these parts.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 02:19 PM
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I know of ONE turbo and heard of 2-SC'd.

Wish I had those kind of friends.


Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
You know now that you bring that up there are 6 turbo maximas here in the ATL area alone.

Me
Jay25
Bags533
Shadow
Ramius83
Jesse

This is just turbo maxes, I think there are a few s/c maxes as well. We moving up around these parts.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 02:20 PM
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Funny this is that the turbo people, we all live within 45mins from each other, shiet.... me, bags, jay, and ramius all live only 20mins from each other.

And let me state that having friends like these is priceless. We can always count on each other for suggestions, ideas, tools, HELP, anything. Makes it alot easier to go through problems and the trials and tribulations of being custom turbo'ed.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 02:23 PM
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Lucky SOBs~!

Must be the water(or beer) you guys are drinking...LOL!


Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Funny this is that the turbo people, we all live within 45mins from each other, shiet.... me, bags, jay, and ramius all live only 20mins from each other.

And let me state that having friends like these is priceless. We can always count on each other for suggestions, ideas, tools, HELP, anything. Makes it alot easier to go through problems and the trials and tribulations of being custom turbo'ed.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 02:39 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
You know now that you bring that up there are 6 turbo maximas here in the ATL area alone.

Me
Jay25
Bags533
Shadow
Ramius83
Jesse

This is just turbo maxes, I think there are a few s/c maxes as well. We moving up around these parts.

Dixit
I've been talking to my wife about moving to the ATL area when we get a bigger home......
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Old 12-11-2003, 04:53 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1


I know of ONE turbo and heard of 2-SC'd.

Wish I had those kind of friends.


I guess I aint your friend then?


If I dont sell my 5th gen SCer I will install it on my 95 4th gen, blue max so we will still have a SCed maxima
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Old 12-11-2003, 05:40 PM
  #34  
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I only got the luxury during install.. now i have to solve any problems with lots of phone calls, IMs and e-mails. Too bad i can't stomp on all your **** slow turbo'd maximas in the atl
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Old 12-11-2003, 05:59 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by thebigsadler
I only got the luxury during install.. now i have to solve any problems with lots of phone calls, IMs and e-mails. Too bad i can't stomp on all your **** slow turbo'd maximas in the atl

Bring that fast beast over here. I have lowered my boost from 9.7 to 9.1. That should be fair enough



PM me your number if you have that auto tranny. My auto tranny went out and I need another one if you have it Id like to buy it from you.


Jaime
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Old 12-11-2003, 06:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by JAY25
Bring that fast beast over here. I have lowered my boost from 9.7 to 9.1. That should be fair enough



PM me your number if you have that auto tranny. My auto tranny went out and I need another one if you have it Id like to buy it from you.


Jaime

wanna take the VB out of the tranny in your back yard and try it?


And dixit your correct, with firends like yall.. a motor swap was easy
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Old 12-11-2003, 06:09 PM
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Shiet....Jaime, want mine? If it fits you can have it. Just need a VB since I sold that.

Dixit
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Old 12-11-2003, 08:28 PM
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I only know 1-TC'd and 2-SC'd Maximas in ARIZONA.




Originally Posted by JAY25


I guess I aint your friend then?


If I dont sell my 5th gen SCer I will install it on my 95 4th gen, blue max :naughty so we will still have a SCed maxima:jump
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Old 12-12-2003, 04:25 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1


I only know 1-TC'd and 2-SC'd Maximas in ARIZONA.


I got your number~ since I aint yo fwiend.
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Old 12-12-2003, 08:11 AM
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You guys are farkin' silly sometimes...

I can't wait to be in the elite turbo Maxima club next year...
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