97 is now working, after the ECU swap.
97 is now working, after the ECU swap.
But I now have a check engine light again, is there something you have to do to reset it? I have a feeling they sent me an auto ECU, I knew they would. But do I peel off the little sticker to run the code? or will they not take it back if I do that? I need to run the code to see what it is.
why not diagnose the code? if you get a bunch of auto related codes then theres your problem. If you get some 02 sensor stuff or sililar then maybe you got the wrong year ecu. Im running a 95 ecu on my 97 and I have a rear 02 code
if u peel the sticker, they may not take it back. Thats why i would go local for that type of stuff and make sure they give me right one. But it could be just issues with your car. Diagnose and hope its just a small issue wit your car. I would ask around for similar auto issues that come up with the conversion. If it is auto, tell us teh dumb a$$e$$ that cant read auto vs manual
Yeah. I think I will call him before I tear the tab off. I did a diagnosis on the car with the old auto ECU and just got three auto tranny codes.
It should go off with a 5 speed ECU right? I shouldnt need a wiring harness should I?
It should go off with a 5 speed ECU right? I shouldnt need a wiring harness should I?
Don,
You don't need a harness, but you NEED to reset the ECU for the light to go off, it won't do it automatically. I say reset the thing and see what happens. If it throws codes, check them, if not I'd say you're golden (like the bridge)
You don't need a harness, but you NEED to reset the ECU for the light to go off, it won't do it automatically. I say reset the thing and see what happens. If it throws codes, check them, if not I'd say you're golden (like the bridge)
Originally Posted by nupe500
Don,
You don't need a harness, but you NEED to reset the ECU for the light to go off, it won't do it automatically. I say reset the thing and see what happens. If it throws codes, check them, if not I'd say you're golden (like the bridge)
You don't need a harness, but you NEED to reset the ECU for the light to go off, it won't do it automatically. I say reset the thing and see what happens. If it throws codes, check them, if not I'd say you're golden (like the bridge)
Also why would the codes be there if it was a 5 speed ECU?
well first go the 4th gen forum and read some of the stickies...(you're not a NOOB!)
,
but I would reset it anyways, and see what happens? the code could be something else, like O2 sensor or something stupid...who knows...
,but I would reset it anyways, and see what happens? the code could be something else, like O2 sensor or something stupid...who knows...
Update: I reset it doing to double screw thing, counterclockwise-clockwise-counterclockwise-clockwise and it went off, I drove it around 15 miles and it cam back on, I am going to have to run the codes. I will also try the other way Erik.
Originally Posted by dmontzmax
Update: I reset it doing to double screw thing, counterclockwise-clockwise-counterclockwise-clockwise and it went off, I drove it around 15 miles and it cam back on, I am going to have to run the codes. I will also try the other way Erik.
Okie...now let us know what codes get thrown...you're on the right path though. and if all else fails. Just unplug the CEL light and get it tested.
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Donald, my way will only reset the ECU/CEL, like you just did by turning the screw. So, since you already did it that way, you don't have to unplug the battery or anything as it will not accomplish anything.
Do you have time to run the codes now? I think that the CEL will be exhaust/emmisions related as it takes about that amount of time for the ECU to log the data and interpret the results it reads from its sensors; after which it will either be OK or throw the CEL.
Do you have time to run the codes now? I think that the CEL will be exhaust/emmisions related as it takes about that amount of time for the ECU to log the data and interpret the results it reads from its sensors; after which it will either be OK or throw the CEL.
My thoughts is that you may have a 5speed 4th gen ECU but the Months are wrong - for examble your 97 max may be a late 96 and share a 95-96 ecu but the guy sold you a 97-99 ecu so you will have emission codes just like me.
Thanks Erik and Ola for the advice and all of your help, you have both responded to my threads and I appreciate your assistance. Erik ship my engine 
R5a7B - Yes, I will let you know what I am doing once I get my problems solved.
Here are the codes I just pulled out:
13-2 MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve WTF is that?
3-4 Knock Sensor
10-3 PARK/Neutral Position Switch
I am pretty sure they are the only codes that popped up, I waited for it to cycle and I hit 13-2 a few times, so I am almost positive I grabbed all the codes.
Any ideas? Is it definately a 5 speed ECU?

R5a7B - Yes, I will let you know what I am doing once I get my problems solved.
Here are the codes I just pulled out:
13-2 MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve WTF is that?
3-4 Knock Sensor
10-3 PARK/Neutral Position Switch
I am pretty sure they are the only codes that popped up, I waited for it to cycle and I hit 13-2 a few times, so I am almost positive I grabbed all the codes.
Any ideas? Is it definately a 5 speed ECU?
I think you have a 5speed ecu but
10-3 park/ nps is from your conversion because you proabbly didnt jump the auto harness to bypass that. I had that code too.
0304- KS- just change your knock sensor
13-2 MAP/BARO - you proabbly have your map sensor unplugged or missing.
dont think any of those are auto ecu related but just random engine problems that came up
10-3 park/ nps is from your conversion because you proabbly didnt jump the auto harness to bypass that. I had that code too.
0304- KS- just change your knock sensor
13-2 MAP/BARO - you proabbly have your map sensor unplugged or missing.
dont think any of those are auto ecu related but just random engine problems that came up
Originally Posted by Nismo
I think you have a 5speed ecu but
10-3 park/ nps is from your conversion because you proabbly didnt jump the auto harness to bypass that. I had that code too.
0304- KS- just change your knock sensor
13-2 MAP/BARO - you proabbly have your map sensor unplugged or missing.
dont think any of those are auto ecu related but just random engine problems that came up
10-3 park/ nps is from your conversion because you proabbly didnt jump the auto harness to bypass that. I had that code too.
0304- KS- just change your knock sensor
13-2 MAP/BARO - you proabbly have your map sensor unplugged or missing.
dont think any of those are auto ecu related but just random engine problems that came up
Thanks NISMO, you have also been VERY helpful. I am somewhat relieved to have a 5 speed ECU now, any idea how I can jump the harness for code 10-3? also, fix the map sensor? what is that? Knock Sensor shouldnt show check engine right? I know on my 92 it doesnt.
What is strang is howcome these codes didnt come up with the auto ECU?
Originally Posted by dmontzmax
Thanks NISMO, you have also been VERY helpful. I am somewhat relieved to have a 5 speed ECU now, any idea how I can jump the harness for code 10-3? also, fix the map sensor? what is that? Knock Sensor shouldnt show check engine right? I know on my 92 it doesnt.
What is strang is howcome these codes didnt come up with the auto ECU?
What is strang is howcome these codes didnt come up with the auto ECU?
Park neutral- I forgot which wire to jump but Ill look tommorow. basically there are unplugged harnesses that are dangling over your tranny and you have to jump a couple of them to bypass it. Also you jump them to get your reverse lights working
Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor- not shure how to fix that on a maxima since I never done it before but If I remember correctly from other cars, look for a black square looking device near the engine that has a harness plugged into it and a vacuume line conected and check if you see anything wrong.
You might wanna check the park/neutral(auto) or reverse/neutral(5spd) sensor if you have any issues with engine racing after coming to a stop. Mine actually did go bad. It just takes a few minutes to replace and makes all the difference. If the engine stays smooth then I'd go for jumping the wires.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by R5a7B
Well, what are you looking to get for it?
I'm just not sure if it will work with mine because I don't have many options. Does that matter?
I'm just not sure if it will work with mine because I don't have many options. Does that matter?
I hope to get like $1,000 for it

naw, I think $50 shipped is reasonable, I just bought my 5 speed ECU for $150 shipped, let me know.
Originally Posted by R5a7B
bump.... whats the deal dmontz?
I've checked that out, but there isn't that much available that is close to me. I can wait til you are all set, unless I find another one for a good price. I'd rather buy from an org member and know it is in good shape. Keep in touch, thanks.
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