LED's, resistors, and volt meter?!?!?

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Jan 12, 2004 | 05:27 PM

#41

JS MAX

Member

Joined: Oct 2003

Posts: 42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlad

Great Thread! Learned some more stuff!

Since I like the Audi Red look, I changed the LEDs in my window switches to Red. I did that for the first time and consider myself damn lucky not to destroy or burn anything. However, yesterday I was working for 6 hours on my Manual Climate Control circuit and I believe I messed up the board.
In the process I burned some pessages but managed to reconnect them with small pieces of wire, kinda making bridges. I got all LEDs to work but now my vent controls don't work

Judging from my lesson here are the questions I've got:

1) How many watts soldering gun am I safe to use?

2) How long can the circuit be exposed to the heat?

3) What is a good price on another MCC. Seen them on eBay for 25-30 bucks...

Thanks a lot!

Good questions..I'd like to know all that too for when I do my climate control leds.

Also, can anybody give us the final word on whether me or multiplexor had the right idea on wiring in parallel or if we're basically doing the same thing or what.

And if parallel is having one wire jump from positive to positive, what type of connectors could I use to get it on the leads of the led...

Jan 12, 2004 | 06:17 PM

#42

MaximaPolak

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From: Passaic County, NJ

Quote:

Originally Posted by JS MAX

Front switches can be changed to blue..mine are and lots of other people around here have it too. Give it a try it'll work.

2k2 and 2k3 switches seem to have a lower voltage in the front driver side.
The rear have a 12V power supply.
Front: like a 1.3 V I think

Jan 12, 2004 | 08:41 PM

#43

JS MAX

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Joined: Oct 2003

Posts: 42

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaPolak

2k2 and 2k3 switches seem to have a lower voltage in the front driver side.
The rear have a 12V power supply.
Front: like a 1.3 V I think

oh my mistake didn't see you had a 5th gen.

Jan 12, 2004 | 08:51 PM

#44

Ladzio

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Got everything working. This time it took me less than an hour to take everything apart, fix, and get it back together.... Practice Makes Perfect !

Jan 14, 2004 | 10:18 AM

#45

multiplexor

Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2001

Posts: 1,503

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlad

I'd use a ~25watt soldering iron. And for soldering the led onto the board..... I'd apply the iron for no more than around 3 seconds. If it didn't work in that time, wait a few seconds and try again. Eventually the solder will get warmer and wamer. Instead of full hot by placing the soldering iron on the solder and waiting for it to melt on...

3) No clue :dunno:

Jan 14, 2004 | 05:25 PM

#46

MaximaPolak

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From: Passaic County, NJ

WHO HAS A 2K2 or 2K3 with changed front switches????

Jan 14, 2004 | 06:19 PM

#47

Ramius83

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Posts: n/a

But, here is my question. What does mcd, mA, and all those terms stand for? I am about to start a little project and I have no idea what all that means. Thanks all.

Jan 14, 2004 | 06:28 PM

#48

Ladzio

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Quote:

Originally Posted by multiplexor

3) No clue :dunno:

Thanks! Got it all written down

Jan 15, 2004 | 02:18 PM

#49

hacim105

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Posts: 2,063

From: Reno, NV

Quote:

Originally Posted by multiplexor

All you need to know:
so down the voltage just buy a 1/4 watt resistor (goto any electrical store and ask them for some...) get 1/4watt 430-460 ohm resistors.

if you get 430 ohms resistors the lights will be brighter but won't last as long... even though they last forever as is...

Does the 430 ohm resistor make the LED that much more noticably brighter than the 460 ohm resistor? Basically, is it a big difference (for example like a dual filament bulb between hi and lo where you can really see a difference) or is it just slightly brighter?