Does a sway bar really work?
Does a sway bar really work?
I had my 97 at the tire shop on the rack. The guy asks "why do you have a sway bar on there? I said "it came with the car". He said "it is not doing anything it is not tied in, basically it is just piggy backing the beam. you have a solid axle, you do not need this, it is doing nothing"
is he right? has anyone thought about this?
is he right? has anyone thought about this?
its a add on to the beam, stiffening up the rear suspension. The way its designed is completely beneficial.
for my stillen rsb, the brackets are connected from the side rails with only the bar itself trailing underneath the beam
for my stillen rsb, the brackets are connected from the side rails with only the bar itself trailing underneath the beam
The sway bar restricts the motion and the angle of the trailing arms relative to the beam. It keeps the beam more level and resists body roll a lot more than the stock suspension.
I was told the same thing by Jeff at Maximum Tuning. He basically told me that it was nothing more then a BRACE not a real sway bar. A REAL sway bar is connected to the chasis and bends with the movement of the suspension trying move the other wheel up in relation to the other wheels movement.
Originally Posted by MacAlert
I was told the same thing by Jeff at Maximum Tuning. He basically told me that it was nothing more then a BRACE not a real sway bar. A REAL sway bar is connected to the chasis and bends with the movement of the suspension trying move the other wheel up in relation to the other wheels movement.
The guy's a moron. Swaybars absolutely effect handling, and to a great extent. It's really just another form of a spring that compensates for certain lateral movements...actually, it's kind of difficult to explain by typing.
Originally Posted by Larrio
but thats the thing.. it IS connected to the chassis via the trailing arms. The arms flex during cornering and the sway bar restricts that motion by stiffening up the torsion between the two trailing arms, aiding the beam
My swaybar on my IRS 3-gen is not welded to the chassis 

Originally Posted by MacAlert
What I meant was, it is not physically welded to the chasis therefore its not a true sway BAR. Its more of a BRACE. There is not doubt that it helps but not in the way people think.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
My swaybar on my IRS 3-gen is not welded to the chassis 

Originally Posted by Jeff92se
My swaybar on my IRS 3-gen is not welded to the chassis 

Originally Posted by dmontzmax
I was trying to see where it connects while doing the Koni install. I didnt really crawl in there though. Where is the 3rd gens stock one connected?

its connected by this huge bolt holding in the sway bar to the rear struts (the one we were about to cut off
)
Originally Posted by Larrio
donald, don't u remember us staring at it for 8 hours while doing your rear suspension? 
its connected by this huge bolt holding in the sway bar to the rear struts (the one we were about to cut off
)

its connected by this huge bolt holding in the sway bar to the rear struts (the one we were about to cut off
)I just did a Koni/Intrax install on Ricky's 92 it seemed like wed busted it out so much faster and that included modifying the fronts for the Konis. It took 5 hours, but I think with air tools it would of been 2 hours. It really isnt that bad to me now. Just breaking suspension bolts is always a pain.
Originally Posted by dmontzmax
hahaha, how can I forget that, OMG that was a nightmare. Thanks again for the help
I still have your blanket thingy in my garage, I have not used it.
I just did a Koni/Intrax install on Ricky's 92 it seemed like wed busted it out so much faster and that included modifying the fronts for the Konis. It took 5 hours, but I think with air tools it would of been 2 hours. It really isnt that bad to me now. Just breaking suspension bolts is always a pain.
I just did a Koni/Intrax install on Ricky's 92 it seemed like wed busted it out so much faster and that included modifying the fronts for the Konis. It took 5 hours, but I think with air tools it would of been 2 hours. It really isnt that bad to me now. Just breaking suspension bolts is always a pain.
the way i see it, the rear axle can move independently on both sides. the way the swaybar works is it resists the motion between left and right. your mechanic is used to seeing swaybars on independent suspensions. look at the front sway design in comparison to the aftermarket rear. anyway, the rear swaybar makes a huge difference. the car is more willing to be rotated, more roll stiffness, and less understeer.
Originally Posted by Larrio
glad to know you finally found it. now its only time for you to show up to some meets 

those meets are too far out of the way for me, as far as Monrovia and those regions and we all know I will not go to RPM again.wanna roll to C-Bad this weekend?
1. mustangs, camaros, chevelles, etc. - they ALL have a live rear axle (essentially, a beam), and a rear sway bar. out sway bars connect to the trailint arms and the beam, and it does provide resistance to the rear suspension's movement. it does help - my car's handling now is pretty neutral, it doesnt understeer as much. playing with the distance at which the clams are secured to the beam (dont think trailing arms matter here) will affect under/over steer. mine are set about 3-4 inches away from each end of the bar.
2. welding the sway bar to the chassis or any suspention component will effectivery nullify its effectiveness, since it wouldnt be able to move. it will become a brace.
2. welding the sway bar to the chassis or any suspention component will effectivery nullify its effectiveness, since it wouldnt be able to move. it will become a brace.
Originally Posted by dmontzmax
those meets are too far out of the way for me, as far as Monrovia and those regions and we all know I will not go to RPM again.wanna roll to C-Bad this weekend?
and about the sway bar-
I know it works because i used to have a 2k1 auto with fstb and rsb only and it takes turns differently than my 2k1 5spd with sprints/agx and fstb. I take the same mountain roads to get to my house
Originally Posted by Nyc2kMax
find a new shop indeed >>>>>>>>
Originally Posted by MacAlert
I was told the same thing by Jeff at Maximum Tuning. He basically told me that it was nothing more then a BRACE not a real sway bar. A REAL sway bar is connected to the chasis and bends with the movement of the suspension trying move the other wheel up in relation to the other wheels movement.
Originally Posted by dmontzmax
I had my 97 at the tire shop on the rack. The guy asks "why do you have a sway bar on there? I said "it came with the car". He said "it is not doing anything it is not tied in, basically it is just piggy backing the beam. you have a solid axle, you do not need this, it is doing nothing"
is he right? has anyone thought about this?
is he right? has anyone thought about this?
The only opinion I have of using the rear swaybar on a lowered Max is that the springs will reduce a lot of the sway so adding a swaybar will make the suspension really stiff through cornering. Some poeple here have had scares with using them on a drop.
Originally Posted by deezo
Has this guy ever seen sway bars on full sized pickups? I guess they do nothing too.
The only opinion I have of using the rear swaybar on a lowered Max is that the springs will reduce a lot of the sway so adding a swaybar will make the suspension really stiff through cornering. Some poeple here have had scares with using them on a drop.
The only opinion I have of using the rear swaybar on a lowered Max is that the springs will reduce a lot of the sway so adding a swaybar will make the suspension really stiff through cornering. Some poeple here have had scares with using them on a drop.
Yeah, it can scare someone who is not trained or used to oversteer. Yes, I said oversteer folks. You have the right drop combined with the right RSB bar size and placement, and your a$$ end will be so tight that it can actually skip out from under you in sharper turns (most times it's sharp turns with severe uneven sections...also known as bumps
) But I think oversteer in a FWD car is easier to modulate than in a RWD car for the simple fact that it's VERY hard to spin out in FWD vs. RWD (which is quite fun, actually). OK, I'm blabbering now, so I'll shut up...
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
Yeah, it can scare someone who is not trained or used to oversteer. Yes, I said oversteer folks. You have the right drop combined with the right RSB bar size and placement, and your a$$ end will be so tight that it can actually skip out from under you in sharper turns (most times it's sharp turns with severe uneven sections...also known as bumps
) But I think oversteer in a FWD car is easier to modulate than in a RWD car for the simple fact that it's VERY hard to spin out in FWD vs. RWD (which is quite fun, actually). OK, I'm blabbering now, so I'll shut up...
) But I think oversteer in a FWD car is easier to modulate than in a RWD car for the simple fact that it's VERY hard to spin out in FWD vs. RWD (which is quite fun, actually). OK, I'm blabbering now, so I'll shut up...i agree with you, I almost never can get my car to swing its tail in the dry, primarily due to the tire sidewall flex (15 inch honeycombs, baby!)
Originally Posted by dmBK
i agree with you, I almost never can get my car to swing its tail in the dry, primarily due to the tire sidewall flex (15 inch honeycombs, baby!)
Umm, bump induced oversteer is not my idea of fun. Nor is having a suspension so stiff that it will do this on any regular basis.
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
Yeah, it can scare someone who is not trained or used to oversteer. Yes, I said oversteer folks. You have the right drop combined with the right RSB bar size and placement, and your a$$ end will be so tight that it can actually skip out from under you in sharper turns (most times it's sharp turns with severe uneven sections...also known as bumps
) But I think oversteer in a FWD car is easier to modulate than in a RWD car for the simple fact that it's VERY hard to spin out in FWD vs. RWD (which is quite fun, actually). OK, I'm blabbering now, so I'll shut up...
) But I think oversteer in a FWD car is easier to modulate than in a RWD car for the simple fact that it's VERY hard to spin out in FWD vs. RWD (which is quite fun, actually). OK, I'm blabbering now, so I'll shut up...
Originally Posted by Bman
If you're also running on stock suspension it's going to be even harder... the guys above are talking about cars with modded suspension. Unless you have RWD you really need a much stiffer rear suspension to induce oversteer.
Originally Posted by Bman
If you're also running on stock suspension it's going to be even harder... the guys above are talking about cars with modded suspension. Unless you have RWD you really need a much stiffer rear suspension to induce oversteer.
I did a 270* a month or two ago, Eibach/Tokico/BlehmCo RSTB/ST RSB/Otto FSTB and ****ty tires on stock wheels. I was going too fast on too tight of a turn, lost it, over corrected and bam it happened (it was also the first time driving the car with the new suspension on all 4 corners sooo....). Aside from that just taking sharp turns and such I really dont have an over steer problem. The rearend tracks very very well, but theres only been a few times (normally when its wet out) where the rear end has actually slid out, and even then it really wasn't anything to really think about). I'm sure with some larger wheels and better tires there will be a huge improvement 
Having my current setup makes the car soooo much easier to drive in the twistys compared to stock, not to mention fun
(btw, sure you cant make the meet this Saturday
)
Originally Posted by Bman
Ah, good for you.... 
....but on 15" honeycombs?

....but on 15" honeycombs?

for sho'! i think my car will look off the hook on 17x8 Borbet Type E, but i'd probably bend them pretty quickly. NYC streets are ravaged by potholes, and i just cant crawl over them at a snail's pace.
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