DFWmax

i know there aren't any specific answers, but i have already warped a rotor on my 99se 5-spd. i only have 29k miles on it. i don't race, or autocross, but i am "enthusiastic" when i'm driving. i drive 45 miles (one way) to work each day, virtually all of it is on the highway, in light/moderate rush hour. of course, sometimes, you have to use your brakes to slow from 85 to 20 (tires almost squealing) because some slow suv cuts into the left lane. is that enough to warp the rotors?

i dont think i am a late braker either, but there are occasions that i would not want to run the yellow-turning-red light, so i have to hard brake there too (the non-highway part of my driving is on a twisty 60mph state road that has stoplights - maybe its a hi-way too.)

i just ordered some stillen cross-drilled rotors and metal matrix pads to replace the front. i would like to keep from warping them.

i know there are some known ways -- improper torquing of the bolts, cold water on hot rotor, etc. but i am careful not to do them.


thanks,

DFWmax

mzmtg

iTrader: (11)

ONE of the most common reasons for rotor warpage is insufficient cooling. When you brake hard several times or whatever to build up a lot of het in the rotor, you need to let them cool. Just parking the car and leaving it with really hot brakes will warp them. Drive around alittle, really easy, and let them cool off before parking. When the car is stopped, the caliper covering part of the rotor doesnt let the rotor cool evenly.

DFWmax

good idea. both endpoints of my drive has about 3 miles of smaller street driving. that should be enough to cool it down, right?

SleeperSE

- Not if there are a lot of stop signs or stop lights.

- I know that my dealership refuses to replace brake pads without resurfacing the rotors. It's costlier, but it can save you in the long run, both in costly repairs, and when you need to slam on your brakes and need every last millimeter of grip surface. With 29K miles on the car, you should have already replaced the brake pads, thus having the rotors resurfaced. It's just one of those things you do, like changing your oil religiously every 3K miles.
- Regular driving will, over time, warp the rotors. Its just how it is. Typically, a few panic stops (highway, red light, etc) are not going to be enough to warp them. Its only when the rotors are super-hot for an extended period of time that they warp. Don't worry about driving for ten minutes before parking - that's unnecessary. The auto manufacturers design these cars to last for the average Joe or Jane, and that means not having to worry about rotor warpage.
- The Metal Matrix pads are also supposed to be pretty cruddy. I think that a few people have posted that they don't brake well, dust heavily, and warp the rotors faster. I've got Porterfields on right now and they are awesome - but only once there heated up. They lose heat very easily and ruin the pedal feel if they're not warm. On a hot summer's day, they rock, but not in the winter. I'm not sure if there are any alternatives, but, if/when ordering, be sure to mention that you are a part of Maxima.org. Often times you can get discounts.
- As for the rotors, just remember that those little discs of metal do a lot of work in 29K. Treat them to a nice euro-massage, aroma-therapy, and a resurfacing. ;-)

DFWmax

i guess i didnt think that my brakes would need work after only 29k miles, but then my 1990 maxima needed rotors/pads after 30k, so maybe its me and my driving.....

doh! the guy said that the stillen metal matrix were the pads to use; the stillen webpage also says that the metal matrix are supposed to be low-dust, and non-harsh on the rotors....... at least they were only $35.

i saw some people talking about the porterfield pads; how can you be sure that the pads will be ready for you when you need the braking power? do you have to occasionally tap the brakes to keep them warm? i wouldnt want to come up to a situation and find out that my pads were cold and dont grip.....

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

- The Metal Matrix pads are also supposed to be pretty cruddy.

This may or may not be true. Over the years, Stillen has re-badged Axxis (now known as Autospecialty) Metalmasters and sold them as their own for more money. I have a million posts describing all of this (2 are outlined below). For minimal dusting/performance Metalmasters are the ones to get. For performance regardless of dusting, Porterfields take the cake.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=3552

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=19113

I remember some posts a year or so ago where someone discovered that Stillen no longer uses Axxis Metalmasters, but a cheaper (thus inferior) type. That would explain to me why they are $35 now instead of $75 as they used to be.

Having had the Stillen/Metal Matrix setup, I do have to commend there performance. They were fantastic. However, they lasted about 30k and the rotors were nice and wavy. X-drilled rotors can't be turned, so you have to toss those rotors and get new ones.

As my posts above have stated, I've had so many rotor problems that I cryo-treated my current rotors to see if that would help. Thus far, after 5 months, they are still smooth and warp free. Since I tend to warp rotors like crazy, this has thus far been a positive step.

Getting 29k on rotors isn't terrible. A good re-surfacing should make them happy again....except they will warp quicker than 29k and then you're looking at replacing them anyway.

If you're really bored, you can enter my profile and view all of my posts.....most of them are brake related...

Good luck!