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O2 Sensor / Rough Idling Question...

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Old Sep 25, 2000 | 05:42 AM
  #1  
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Aboiut 2 months ago I had recall work done to my car. The O2 sensors were replaced, vapor canistor, and a few other parts aw well. When I first got it back I had some problems. I would be driving and all of a sudden the car would start to hesitate a bit, as if there was a problem with the fuel delivery. This would happen on the highway as well as "city" driving. A few times when I got off a long stretch of highway and stopped at a toll booth my car would stall. I would restart it and the idle would drop again and the car would stall. I would have to keep reving the gas until I wanted to start to move again. Some other thing that I've notice happening is that when I do come to a stop my idle sticks at about 1200 for about 2-3 seconds before dropping to 850. I have a 5 speed and I coast in neutral, so it's not like I was even in gear.

Well here's the point of this all. I read in another post that a rough idle could be caused by a bad O2 sensor. I was wondering if anybody knew if this type of behavior could be indicative of a bad O2 sensor as well. I'd appreciate any feedback on this one.

Thanks
BG
Old Sep 25, 2000 | 06:49 AM
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Originally posted by bgruver
Aboiut 2 months ago I had recall work done to my car. The O2 sensors were replaced, vapor canistor, and a few other parts aw well. When I first got it back I had some problems. I would be driving and all of a sudden the car would start to hesitate a bit, as if there was a problem with the fuel delivery. This would happen on the highway as well as "city" driving. A few times when I got off a long stretch of highway and stopped at a toll booth my car would stall. I would restart it and the idle would drop again and the car would stall. I would have to keep reving the gas until I wanted to start to move again. Some other thing that I've notice happening is that when I do come to a stop my idle sticks at about 1200 for about 2-3 seconds before dropping to 850. I have a 5 speed and I coast in neutral, so it's not like I was even in gear.

Well here's the point of this all. I read in another post that a rough idle could be caused by a bad O2 sensor. I was wondering if anybody knew if this type of behavior could be indicative of a bad O2 sensor as well. I'd appreciate any feedback on this one.

Thanks
BG

well if you have a code on the ECU then find out what it is.
if your idle problem only happens when the car is hot and NOT when it's cold...it's a good chance that it's the O2.
Dan
Old Sep 25, 2000 | 07:03 AM
  #3  
Matt_P
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Alright-->

This is like 20 people now who have had trouble with the Evap vapor canistor in the summer of 2k (this summer). What is up with that? Serious bad gas? There is something really wrong going on.

I had my Evap canister replaced, but I am still having problems with hesitation when I go at it hard. Serious fuel delivery problems. The problem is even worse with the supercharger.

Matt P.
Old Sep 25, 2000 | 08:10 AM
  #4  
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Re: Alright-->

Matt - So you're having the hesitation problems too? Have you had any parts replaced recently?

DanNY - Yes I do believe it only happens when the engine is hot. I think I may take it back to the dealer so that they can check the O2 sensors.

Thanks,
BG
Old Sep 25, 2000 | 08:38 AM
  #5  
Matt_P
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Re: Re: Alright-->

Originally posted by bgruver
Matt - So you're having the hesitation problems too? Have you had any parts replaced recently?

DanNY - Yes I do believe it only happens when the engine is hot. I think I may take it back to the dealer so that they can check the O2 sensors.

Thanks,
BG
I was getting ECM code 0215. I took my car to the dealer ship and they replaced the Evap control canister control/purge valve thingy. After that, my problems were not fixed my idle was rougher and I was getting a code saying "miss fire in cylinder number 1". I took the car to IMPO and they did a compression test(engine damage). All the cylinders tested OK. IMPO re-hooked all new vacuum lines (according to stillens instructions--dealer rescrewed this up). The car is running a lot better...but not all the way better. It still pings on real heaver acceleration (especially after shifts). Also, the idle drops real low after letting off quickly(sometimes stalls).

I don't know what is up. I am going to try some octane boost and change the fuel filter. I may even go with an even larger (300z filter just to have little extra fuel in the filter).

Matt P.
Old Sep 25, 2000 | 09:31 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Alright-->

Originally posted by Matt_P
Originally posted by bgruver
Matt - So you're having the hesitation problems too? Have you had any parts replaced recently?

DanNY - Yes I do believe it only happens when the engine is hot. I think I may take it back to the dealer so that they can check the O2 sensors.

Thanks,
BG
I was getting ECM code 0215. I took my car to the dealer ship and they replaced the Evap control canister control/purge valve thingy. After that, my problems were not fixed my idle was rougher and I was getting a code saying "miss fire in cylinder number 1". I took the car to IMPO and they did a compression test(engine damage). All the cylinders tested OK. IMPO re-hooked all new vacuum lines (according to stillens instructions--dealer rescrewed this up). The car is running a lot better...but not all the way better. It still pings on real heaver acceleration (especially after shifts). Also, the idle drops real low after letting off quickly(sometimes stalls).

I don't know what is up. I am going to try some octane boost and change the fuel filter. I may even go with an even larger (300z filter just to have little extra fuel in the filter).

Matt P.
ya know i also notice that when you rev the car (with the S/C) and let the gas go the car dips the idle REAL low then bounces it back up. well on Dave's it's not at the point that it will stall..but it's low enough for me to worry about it..hmm..any thoughts?
Thanks Matt
Dan
Old Sep 25, 2000 | 11:26 AM
  #7  
Matt_P
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re: dipping idle


For the dipping idle with the sc. Check are make sure your return tube back to the SC is sealed all the way.

Mine kepting popping out of the filter. Also, which BOV do you have? The Blitz can be adjusted in how much it blows off. The generic one blows off almost most of its air.

Basically, you need this BOV to help you from damaging your SC. When you shift, you slow down the amount the sc is spinning and you need to do something with the extra air that is in the intake tubes. If not, the pressurized air could flow backwards into the sc and wear the blades(by almost forcething them to spin the opposite directly). If you disconnect your return tube from the filter, you blow off safely, but you just lost almost all you presure quickly and none went back to you filter(rpm dip). The sc intake tube is now practially a vacuum.

If stalling is a problem, make sure your bov and return tube are connected securely. If you have the blitz (or other nice bov) check the ajustment to how much you blow off). Also, you could raise you idle slightly.

Matt P.
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